Discussion
Rear wheel bearing change Monaro
Hi it is possible to change the rear wheel bearing without taking suspension arm off , I googled and found a link on just commodores , :: vt commodore rear wheel bearing replacement ;; if you follow the link plus photos its as it says , the most difficult bit is removal of the old half of the bearing from the suspension drag arm , it's a combination of a thicker than an m12 bolt nuts and a number of washers , thick as u can get hold of with in reason , plus a heavy hammer , putting it back together took 30 mins max , I wd40 all visible bolts the day before , the problem about taking the bearing off to press it is rust related and greatly adds to the time of the Job , it took about 5 hours max to do , the bearing removal is most likely a two person job , one on puller one on hammer , total cost 150 £ . I'm in Hemel for any local help .
Hi it is possible to change the rear wheel bearing without taking suspension arm off , I googled and found a link on just commodores , :: vt commodore rear wheel bearing replacement ;; if you follow the link plus photos its as it says , the most difficult bit is removal of the old half of the bearing from the suspension drag arm , it's a combination of a thicker than an m12 bolt nuts and a number of washers , thick as u can get hold of with in reason , plus a heavy hammer , putting it back together took 30 mins max , I wd40 all visible bolts the day before , the problem about taking the bearing off to press it is rust related and greatly adds to the time of the Job , it took about 5 hours max to do , the bearing removal is most likely a two person job , one on puller one on hammer , total cost 150 £ . I'm in Hemel for any local help .
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/h
This is the link for bearings but may not work as from an iPhone
This is the link for bearings but may not work as from an iPhone
Hand brake adjustment Monaro
There is an adjustable nut by the hand brake in the central tunnel area , it's easy to do and you use a 10 mm spanner , if you do the proper method there is a rubber grommet in the rear drums which you pull out and use a flat head screwdriver , I normally take the rear calipers off , twist the caliper to push piston in a bit , take drum off and adjust that way I find it easier , if you do adjust drums always loosen off the 10 mm adjuster nut on the hand brake or the cable is under tension and adjustment is more difficult as you are effectively adjusting the drums with the hand brake part on , it's less than an hour to do both , last time I supported diff so I could make sure adjustment was even
There is an adjustable nut by the hand brake in the central tunnel area , it's easy to do and you use a 10 mm spanner , if you do the proper method there is a rubber grommet in the rear drums which you pull out and use a flat head screwdriver , I normally take the rear calipers off , twist the caliper to push piston in a bit , take drum off and adjust that way I find it easier , if you do adjust drums always loosen off the 10 mm adjuster nut on the hand brake or the cable is under tension and adjustment is more difficult as you are effectively adjusting the drums with the hand brake part on , it's less than an hour to do both , last time I supported diff so I could make sure adjustment was even
Gearbox rear mount change ( manual 04/03 cv8 )
For any one else wanting to do this it's not very difficult , obviously jack the car up fairly high and securely , Plus you need to take weight of gearbox so it does not drop when you unscrew things , i used a trolley jack for this , i worked from one side of the car , unbolted the 2 nuts with washers 13mm these are on the actual mount itself , then undid the cross member 4 bolts can't remember size , had to tap out mount from cross member , cross member comes away , mount has 2 15 mm bolts from it to transmission , undid these and whole lot came off , generally all bolts a bit rusty but brute force worked , putting it back together with new mount in reverse order very easy 30 min job or so
For any one else wanting to do this it's not very difficult , obviously jack the car up fairly high and securely , Plus you need to take weight of gearbox so it does not drop when you unscrew things , i used a trolley jack for this , i worked from one side of the car , unbolted the 2 nuts with washers 13mm these are on the actual mount itself , then undid the cross member 4 bolts can't remember size , had to tap out mount from cross member , cross member comes away , mount has 2 15 mm bolts from it to transmission , undid these and whole lot came off , generally all bolts a bit rusty but brute force worked , putting it back together with new mount in reverse order very easy 30 min job or so
Further to above topic on wheel bearings , I had to do the other one yesterday , I used 16m rod nuts and washers as the bearing puller , used larger sockets on the rod as some thing to push the bearing out , as 16m will not go through the hole in a half inch socket , plus used a puller to remove the cone that the end of the drive shaft screws to , plus wd40 on the drive shaft bolts , took about 1.5 hours to do , bearing came out much quicker this time , if any one chooses to do this just pm if you need more advice
Wyld Stallyn said:
I have some original ones availableMonaro stereo code
The Monaro stereos are coded and appear linked to the ecu of the car , if you put a radio from another Monaro into a different Monaro you will need a code to make it work , it will be four digits long and using numbers 1 to 6 , most car radio repair shops can find the code out for you , If you do not know the code , it's normally in the service book , I tried on line but to no success , I used a chap to get the code for me , he lives in herts and charged 20£ .
The Monaro stereos are coded and appear linked to the ecu of the car , if you put a radio from another Monaro into a different Monaro you will need a code to make it work , it will be four digits long and using numbers 1 to 6 , most car radio repair shops can find the code out for you , If you do not know the code , it's normally in the service book , I tried on line but to no success , I used a chap to get the code for me , he lives in herts and charged 20£ .
Moisture in headlight
One way to get it out is cover headlight with brown paper , use Sellotape to keep it covered , unscrew the plastic caps on the head light in the engine bay , turn the lights on fully including main beam , the moisture will evaporate out with the heat , as long as you have no other leaks which you can hopefully seal then job done .
One way to get it out is cover headlight with brown paper , use Sellotape to keep it covered , unscrew the plastic caps on the head light in the engine bay , turn the lights on fully including main beam , the moisture will evaporate out with the heat , as long as you have no other leaks which you can hopefully seal then job done .
said:
EBC Part numbers.
2004 5.7 CAR
DP31505C FRONT REDSTUFF
DP41505R FRONT YELLOWSTUFF
DP31711C REAR REDSTUFF
DP41711R REAR YELLOWSTUFF
2005-2007 5.7 CAR
DP31162C FRONT REDSTUFF
DP41162R FRONT YELLOWSTUFF
DP31711C REAR REDSTUFF
DP41711R REAR YELLOWSTUFF
2005-2007 6.0 CAR
DP31162C FRONT REDSTUFF
DP41162R FRONT YELLOWSTUFF
DP31711C REAR REDSTUFF
DP41711R REAR YELLOWSTUFF
DP41506R REAR YELLOWSTUFF (Same as above but with a spring retaining clip and around £20 cheaper a set)
Monaro Discs
Monaro 5.7 04
GD7298 FRONT DISCS
GD7300 REAR DISCS
Monaro 5.7 05
GD7299 FRONT DISCS
GD7301 REAR DISCS
Ade2004 5.7 CAR
DP31505C FRONT REDSTUFF
DP41505R FRONT YELLOWSTUFF
DP31711C REAR REDSTUFF
DP41711R REAR YELLOWSTUFF
2005-2007 5.7 CAR
DP31162C FRONT REDSTUFF
DP41162R FRONT YELLOWSTUFF
DP31711C REAR REDSTUFF
DP41711R REAR YELLOWSTUFF
2005-2007 6.0 CAR
DP31162C FRONT REDSTUFF
DP41162R FRONT YELLOWSTUFF
DP31711C REAR REDSTUFF
DP41711R REAR YELLOWSTUFF
DP41506R REAR YELLOWSTUFF (Same as above but with a spring retaining clip and around £20 cheaper a set)
Monaro Discs
Monaro 5.7 04
GD7298 FRONT DISCS
GD7300 REAR DISCS
Monaro 5.7 05
GD7299 FRONT DISCS
GD7301 REAR DISCS
Excerpt from the Holden Service Manuals.
Airbag fault codes, and what conditions triggers them, including wiring diagrams, pin outs / colours, everything you could ever want frankly.
This is applicable to Holden / HSV VXs, VYs, and VZs, including the Monaro. These conditions would also apply to the 04, 05-06 Pontiac GTO I would imagine (although they do not have side airbags).
http://tinyurl.com/odr7dqe
There's also some additional information in here, this is from the VT, but the SRS system has been effectively the same since then, with only small additions to it, keeping the core elements the same.
http://tinyurl.com/noavb9g
Airbag fault codes, and what conditions triggers them, including wiring diagrams, pin outs / colours, everything you could ever want frankly.
This is applicable to Holden / HSV VXs, VYs, and VZs, including the Monaro. These conditions would also apply to the 04, 05-06 Pontiac GTO I would imagine (although they do not have side airbags).
http://tinyurl.com/odr7dqe
There's also some additional information in here, this is from the VT, but the SRS system has been effectively the same since then, with only small additions to it, keeping the core elements the same.
http://tinyurl.com/noavb9g
VXR8 Auto Gearbox Adaptive Mode reset
Remove fuse F9 - 15 Amp "TCM" from the under bonnet fuse box (top fuse in the centre row) for approx 30 seconds. This resets the adaptive mode for the auto and should return your gear changes to nice and smooth ones. No need to have ignition on etc.
Probably worth creating a schedule for this every few months, especially if you spend time sat in town traffic or in 6th on the motorway.
Stef
Remove fuse F9 - 15 Amp "TCM" from the under bonnet fuse box (top fuse in the centre row) for approx 30 seconds. This resets the adaptive mode for the auto and should return your gear changes to nice and smooth ones. No need to have ignition on etc.
Probably worth creating a schedule for this every few months, especially if you spend time sat in town traffic or in 6th on the motorway.
Stef
Vxr8 wing mirror glass change
Ok how I did it , convex glass drivers side for uk ordered on eBay cost about 30£ , took front painted cover off the wing mirror , bottom came out first then the top , using a screwdriver and torch I prised / pushed wing mirror glass and motor came out in one piece still attached to the glass , the motor assembly is attached to actual wing mirror structure by 3 or so small balls which are in the housing and like wise sockets / balls on the motor , I then disconnected two plugs using a flat head , I then broke the original glass , then using pads refitted the new glass , then putting back together , I tilted mirror one way then used a screwdriver to push the mounts of the motor into the mounts on the mirror frame , tilted motor again like wise other side , not being silly check new glass fits first , often worried about braking things due to force used , plus the motor does have clips on the side of it , but I would suggest not splitting it , hope that helps , Monaro wing mirror is similar but you turn mirror fully in and release a clip on the back of the glass and it will pop out , glass replacement the same
Ok how I did it , convex glass drivers side for uk ordered on eBay cost about 30£ , took front painted cover off the wing mirror , bottom came out first then the top , using a screwdriver and torch I prised / pushed wing mirror glass and motor came out in one piece still attached to the glass , the motor assembly is attached to actual wing mirror structure by 3 or so small balls which are in the housing and like wise sockets / balls on the motor , I then disconnected two plugs using a flat head , I then broke the original glass , then using pads refitted the new glass , then putting back together , I tilted mirror one way then used a screwdriver to push the mounts of the motor into the mounts on the mirror frame , tilted motor again like wise other side , not being silly check new glass fits first , often worried about braking things due to force used , plus the motor does have clips on the side of it , but I would suggest not splitting it , hope that helps , Monaro wing mirror is similar but you turn mirror fully in and release a clip on the back of the glass and it will pop out , glass replacement the same
How to get the HSV Tyre Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) to re-learn which sensor is on which wheel
Useful if you have two sets of wheels and need to swap them over, or if you have switched/replaced any of your tyre pressure sensors. I have successfully tested this on my E3 VXR8 GTS. I believe this also applies to the E2 and its Pontiac derivatives (information taken from a US Pontiac forum).
IMPORTANT: Before you begin ensure that you check the following:
- Ensure that you are you near an air-line or have some way of re-inflating your tyres. The process below involves significantly deflating all four tyres.
- Ensure that all four tyres are fully inflated before you begin (it doesn't matter what the tyre pressures are to start with, just so long as there is plenty of air in all four tyres)
- Ensure that the indicator stalk is in its centre (OFF) position and that the hazard lights are OFF. This process uses the indicator lamps and so they must not already be in use before you begin.
1) Remove the dust caps from all four wheels. You need to be quick later on else the learn process can time out.
2) Start with the ignition OFF. Then turn the ignition switch to ON with engine OFF.
3) Press and hold the key fob lock and unlock buttons at the same time. I found this bit awkward to get right the first time. If you've got it right, after about five seconds the horn will chirp two times. This signals that the car is now in TPMS learn mode and the car is ready to rediscover the pressure sensors on all four wheels.
4) Walk around the outside of the car and you should notice that one of the four corner indicator lamps is illuminated (but not flashing). This indicates which tyre pressure sensor the car is ready to learn.
5) Start to continuously deflate the tyre indicated. Continue to deflate the tyre until you hear the horn chirp. This will involve removing quite a lot of air from the tyre.
6) When the horn chirps, this indicates that the tyre pressure sensor in this tyre has been learned and matched to its hub. Stop deflating. DO NOT re-inflate just yet. All four tyres must be learned before re-inflating else you will confuse the process.
7) The illuminated corner indicator lamp will now have moved onto the next wheel to be learned. Repeat steps 4), 5) and 6) until all four tyres have been learned.
8) After the last tyre pressure sensor has been learned the horn should chirp twice to indicate that the sensor matching process is complete. The corner indicator lamps should also now all be off.
9) Turn the ignition switch OFF. The learn process is now complete.
10) Re-inflate all four tyres to the correct pressure and replace dust caps.
Notes:
- There is a time out for each tyre sensor to be learned by, so don't hang about while you're going through the above.
- If you do run out of time on one of the wheels, or if there is a problem with a sensor, you can stop the process and start over again by turning the ignition key to OFF. You'll need to re-inflate all the tyres again before you begin.
- Instead of deflating the tyres at step 5), you can apparently also do the reverse and inflate the tyres and the car will still be able to detect which sensor it needs to match to that hub. The problem with this however is that you don't know how long the car will take to learn the wheel and so you risk over inflating the tyre. Best to start with fully inflated tyres, deflate during step 5) and then re-inflate to the correct pressure once all four are learned.
Edited by pah250 on Sunday 29th June 17:44
Monaro CupHolder
maccavvy said:
Well since getting the car its had a broken cupholder.
so I called Vauxhall .. haha £160 .. I don't think so.
anyway after a bit of research and what not. got myself a new one and fitted it today.
total cost 12 quid second hand saab 9-5
exactly same part number although not easy to find a black one. most saabs are grey .
fits and works perfect.
so I called Vauxhall .. haha £160 .. I don't think so.
anyway after a bit of research and what not. got myself a new one and fitted it today.
total cost 12 quid second hand saab 9-5
exactly same part number although not easy to find a black one. most saabs are grey .
fits and works perfect.
Vxr8 pad rattle
The rattle on mine seems to be mainly the pads shaking up and down in the caliper this can be solved by putting sticky shim pads were the bottom of the brake pad sits on the caliper , normally one caliper is worse than others and you may not be able to do all four due to lack of space for the shim
The rattle on mine seems to be mainly the pads shaking up and down in the caliper this can be solved by putting sticky shim pads were the bottom of the brake pad sits on the caliper , normally one caliper is worse than others and you may not be able to do all four due to lack of space for the shim
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