Very Hot Temperatures! 110+!
Discussion
m3jappa said:
I was stuck in hideous traffic in London yesterday, I reckon I was stop starting for over 3 hours!
Water never went above 97 and oil reached 98 a couple of times but mainly both sat at 96
Was a bit worried but she held up well, I do have an alloy rad which must help.
Mind you even though the car is decatted it was so hot in there, almost unbearable. Gearknob was like fire!
There is a fix for this, the shaft the gear knob is mounted to can be replaced my one in a material that acts as a thermal break. Sear on here, not sure if there are any remaining from the batch that was done about a year ago.Water never went above 97 and oil reached 98 a couple of times but mainly both sat at 96
Was a bit worried but she held up well, I do have an alloy rad which must help.
Mind you even though the car is decatted it was so hot in there, almost unbearable. Gearknob was like fire!
Shep
stimshady said:
i wonder if the uprated alloy rad keeps things a bit cooler in the hot weather?
No difference. I have one, made zero difference to running temps. Unless you had one with larger capacity/more fins, which the 'standard' aftermarket rads do not.Your engine coolant temp shouldn't go much above high 90s with the fans and cooling system working. Mine doesn't in 40deg summer traffic. Perhaps people's dash coolant temp sensors are faulty? Obviously don't ignore a reading of 110deg C though - it could be serious!
Targarama said:
No difference. I have one, made zero difference to running temps. Unless you had one with larger capacity/more fins, which the 'standard' aftermarket rads do not.
Your engine coolant temp shouldn't go much above high 90s with the fans and cooling system working. Mine doesn't in 40deg summer traffic. Perhaps people's dash coolant temp sensors are faulty? Obviously don't ignore a reading of 110deg C though - it could be serious!
The part of the standard rad that does the cooling is alloy? so would expect only a small benefit when changed to a rad that is all alloy (No plastic end bits)Your engine coolant temp shouldn't go much above high 90s with the fans and cooling system working. Mine doesn't in 40deg summer traffic. Perhaps people's dash coolant temp sensors are faulty? Obviously don't ignore a reading of 110deg C though - it could be serious!
Water wetter works quite well, but not with anti-freeze.
The T cars in general should not see above 98 degrees if all is well, even considering a small misalignment between dash tems and real temps. Some T cars (model by model) run cooler than others though.
Get it sorted by someone who knows what they are doing - dealers that tell you 109 is ok?? not sure I would be parting with my hard eraned cash there, not with advice like that kicking about.
TVR_owner said:
Get it sorted by someone who knows what they are doing - dealers that tell you 109 is ok?? not sure I would be parting with my hard eraned cash there, not with advice like that kicking about.
Completely agree, will get it looked into, hopefully just a sensor issue, but advice to get it checked is very wise.TVR_owner said:
Get it sorted by someone who knows what they are doing - dealers that tell you 109 is ok?? not sure I would be parting with my hard eraned cash there, not with advice like that kicking about.
Hi, since my original statement may have been slightly unclear, I'll try and clarify - it was 109+ inclusive, not exclusive. The gist of the chat I had was that while temps getting into the lower 100s was "ok", anything above that sort of level - and the figure stated was 109 - was a danger point.I'm not saying it is good or accurate advice, just some information I was passing
Not a solution but another example of odd readings. My radiators cut in correctly (96 and 98) but after a couple of track laps my water temperature has caused the same 'fault' to be displayed as well. I'm hoping it's a sensor issue (again)(Dom will be looking at in a couple of weeks although it was only replaced last Sept). I suspect that it is as the oil temp reaches just over 60 and then goes down (I reckon it's safer to add air and water temp on mine to get the oil temperature)!
Just a quick note. I tracked down the thread on the thermal break gear sticks (or at least one of them) and the supplier and they cannot be obtained from that source, although they did identify another possible one which I will follow up in the next day or so and let you know if that source still has some.
I was getting hot temperatures (>100) in heavy traffic regularly in the summer as I have the car in France. On the advice of a well known TVR garage I changed the coolant for chemical-based coolant and I did notice a difference, it never goes over 98 now. I was told that the alloy rad wouldn't make much difference, if any...
chris watton said:
I wonder if the T350's get higher temps because, unlike its sibling Tamora, it has no open front and/or less bonnet vents?
When talking to Dom at Power about upgrades and the 5 litre speed six, if I recall correctly, his thoughts were that the T350 was prone to higher temps as it has less under-bonnet ventilation.Need more T350 - Tam front-end conversions
Sevenman said:
chris watton said:
I wonder if the T350's get higher temps because, unlike its sibling Tamora, it has no open front and/or less bonnet vents?
When talking to Dom at Power about upgrades and the 5 litre speed six, if I recall correctly, his thoughts were that the T350 was prone to higher temps as it has less under-bonnet ventilation.Need more T350 - Tam front-end conversions
The main benefit would be a way to pull the warm air out the engine bay as currently there's not really anywhere for it to go.
In traffic though it really is just down to the fans and they do then get hot, those seeing the really high temps -is it just in traffic or on the move?
Zippee said:
My 4.3 certainly runs hotter than prior to the rebuild. I've had powers high flow fans fitted (so much more powerful than standard),water wetter and also opened up a slice under the front end with a splitter to draw a smoother flow of air into the front rad duct. If you look at a standard T350 the airflow is really poor without a smooth bend to arc the air into.
The main benefit would be a way to pull the warm air out the engine bay as currently there's not really anywhere for it to go.
In traffic though it really is just down to the fans and they do then get hot, those seeing the really high temps -is it just in traffic or on the move?
Slow traffic is where my temps rose above 100. Both fans are working as normal so I think a different coolant is the way to go plus maybe the upgraded fans later.The main benefit would be a way to pull the warm air out the engine bay as currently there's not really anywhere for it to go.
In traffic though it really is just down to the fans and they do then get hot, those seeing the really high temps -is it just in traffic or on the move?
Zippee said:
My 4.3 certainly runs hotter than prior to the rebuild. I've had powers high flow fans fitted (so much more powerful than standard),water wetter and also opened up a slice under the front end with a splitter to draw a smoother flow of air into the front rad duct. If you look at a standard T350 the airflow is really poor without a smooth bend to arc the air into.
The main benefit would be a way to pull the warm air out the engine bay as currently there's not really anywhere for it to go.
In traffic though it really is just down to the fans and they do then get hot, those seeing the really high temps -is it just in traffic or on the move?
Not the same as a Speed 6 ......however the LS in my Sag runs a lot hotter than the S6 and during the hot weather last year the cabin was getting uncomfortable on hot days. I decided to fit a shrouded radiator and a couple of the more powerful fans from Dom. I also asked Topcats to improve the airflow into the engine bay with some careful mods, opened up a slice under the front splitter. The result, and it's the fans more than anything, is the water temperature has dropped by 10 degrees on hot days and the overall temperature is much lower. Also Paul at PPC in Melton replaced my air con rad which sits under the rad and that also helped drop the temperature.. The air con now works a lot better and keeps the cabin cool....without increasing water temperature. Some food for thought.The main benefit would be a way to pull the warm air out the engine bay as currently there's not really anywhere for it to go.
In traffic though it really is just down to the fans and they do then get hot, those seeing the really high temps -is it just in traffic or on the move?
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