Flat battery on the Sag

[V8 GRF]

If the process for resetting the alarm/immobiliser is the same on the Griffith you need to disconnect the battery for 10 to 15 seconds and then as you reconnect you need to simultaneously press the alarm fob which should reset the immobiliser.

[JonRB]

Thanks V8 GRF. That's exactly what I did as I read about that trick elsewhere.

All is well now. I just need to replace the access cover, put the wheel back on, torque it up, and off I go.

[JonRB]

Laser Sag said:

Rodney, according to Grahams Sagaris Handbook (very worthwhile getting hold of a copy) jacking point for nearside is the bolt on the angled tube just behind the battery box. Once on the jack remove wheel and at rear of wheel arch you will see a cover with 2 bolts, remove cover and battery is right behind

Excellent advice. Thanks for that. I followed that to the letter and it worked out fine.

As it turned out, it was as actually a lot less hassle than contorting myself into the passenger footwell like I had to with the Chimaera.



The panel wasn't sealed, so I presumed it didn't need to be re-sealed.

[YRRunner]

Has anyone replaced their Sag battery recently please? I can't waste time trying several brands in order to get the fit right, and have the right lower lugs, and the cranking etc. Is it an 096 I need or an 069? Can someone give a definitive part number, make and dealer where I can get the right one 1st time? Seems to have been a problem in the past as the old one has needed packing out, so obviously was fitted wrong last time! Even Graham's bible says there could be anomolies on the Sag. Mine's an early 2005 launch car. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

[zeppo]

I'm running one of these now:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Varta-BLUE-Battery-E12-12-V...

But you have to cut the "feet" to fit in the chassis...

[ray von]

Hi Mark, mines an April 05 car. The battery I fitted last year was a YUASA,which was exactly what came off (apart from the TVR sticker) I picked it up from the local Unipart. Part no UGCBA3069,this is the model with the positive terminal next to the exhaust manifold.

[RedSpike66]

I got a Bosch battery from halfords last year with the +ve terminal on the opposite side (away from the chassis/exhaust manifold). Same size, up to the job, cars sits outside and worked fine all through winter, and 5 year guarantee. I'll post up the details whne I get home of you can wait...

[YRRunner]

Mike, is there a technical or safety reason you decided to go oppo side on the +? Presumably you had to extend the leads? Or was your O.E. set up already like that? Thanks

[awhite2199]

Eurocarparts are doing money off batteries at the moment just bought a Bosch battery for my kit car for 35.99

[RedSpike66]

YRRunner said:

Mike, is there a technical or safety reason you decided to go oppo side on the +? Presumably you had to extend the leads? Or was your O.E. set up already like that? Thanks

I was simply because I had read a few threads that the original setup means the +ve terminal was too close to too many metal bits of the car, and there was the fire at TVR Power a few years back, so I simply thought it wis to swap it around. Luckily I didn't need to but any different cables they seemd to be plenty long enough.

Only down side was over 2 hours with a hack saw blade in a very cramped space sawing the rusted chuffing bolt through holding the old battery in !!!!! Ouch that hurt my fingers !

[NORMSKI T350]

Ive been a plonker, been away for a while and not in a position to keep the battery conditioner on, now I've got a flat battery and can't open the doors or boot on my T350. Not a problem usually, just chuck the anderson connector on and away to go. You guessed it though, the anderson connector lead is in the car along with the locking wheel nut, so can't even whip the wheel off and recharge. Do I need to buy another anderson lead or is there another way?

[JonRB]

NORMSKI T350 said:

Ive been a plonker, been away for a while and not in a position to keep the battery conditioner on, now I've got a flat battery and can't open the doors or boot on my T350. Not a problem usually, just chuck the anderson connector on and away to go. You guessed it though, the anderson connector lead is in the car along with the locking wheel nut, so can't even whip the wheel off and recharge. Do I need to buy another anderson lead or is there another way?

I wouldn't buy a whole new Anderson lead. You could probably get by with just an Anderson connector (much cheaper). I've been meaning to make up something similar myself actually - I envisage an Anderson connector with two short copper bars, one on each terminal, just long enough to protrude from the connector so you can clip croc clips too them. It would be far more convenient to carry around than a full jump lead set.

Or you could wreck your locking wheel nut, of course.

[NORMSKI T350]

Thinking about it, not sure wrecking the wheel nuts is the way I want to go. Best get a new lead.

Thanks for the advice

[shep1001]

NORMSKI T350 said:

Ive been a plonker, been away for a while and not in a position to keep the battery conditioner on, now I've got a flat battery and can't open the doors or boot on my T350. Not a problem usually, just chuck the anderson connector on and away to go. You guessed it though, the anderson connector lead is in the car along with the locking wheel nut, so can't even whip the wheel off and recharge. Do I need to buy another anderson lead or is there another way?

Why not let yourself into the car using the alternative entry method then?? If you don't know how post on here and somebody will explain how - I am traveling for the next 24hrs and probably won't have the tinternet

Shep

[mraddan]

all - i just about follow the anderson connector route to charge the battery but does anybody know the alternative method mentioned above this message - any easier methods appreciated as mine is stuck in france! thanks

[Clockwork Cupcake]

mraddan said:

all - i just about follow the anderson connector route to charge the battery but does anybody know the alternative method mentioned above this message - any easier methods appreciated as mine is stuck in france! thanks

I don't.

But if you are lacking an Anderson lead then the alternative is left front wheel off, remove inner wheel arch panel (less daunting than it sounds as is just a couple of screws), then direct connection to the battery.

[glow worm]

mraddan said:

all - i just about follow the anderson connector route to charge the battery but does anybody know the alternative method mentioned above this message - any easier methods appreciated as mine is stuck in france! thanks

Isn't there a ciggy lighter socket under the passenger side dash?? IIRC
I think you can charge via that all though not the best way

[Clockwork Cupcake]

glow worm said:

Isn't there a ciggy lighter socket under the passenger side dash?? IIRC
I think you can charge via that all though not the best way

On my 2005 Sagaris there is a cigarette lighter socket in the cubby hole ahead of the gearstick, under the dash, offset toward the driver, and is permanently live. I keep a trickle charger connected to it when the car is in the garage.

I never heard of one under the passenger side dash.

Edited by Clockwork Cupcake on Sunday 31st July 18:40

[GaryF]

I use my Andersen connector to trickle charge the battery when not driving. However this is done via simple crocodile clips that came with my Airflow conditioner. The red one clips on the front connector and the black one on the rear. So you can definitely charge without a special Anderson connector by pulling the Anderson connector cap off and doing this.

[non_linear]

With respect, that is seriously dangerous. They are heavy duty cables from the Anderson connector directly to the battery, the slightest short and there is a fair chance the car will catch fire. I'm sure you know what you are doing and are very careful, but I wouldn't recommend that technique to anyone!