Speedo zero message on start up.

[brownspeed]

Upon initiating the start up sequence on my Tamora, I receive the following message
“Speed zero press /\ \/ to cancel”
I’ve tried to press both buttons, and have been going through the LCD menu, all with no success. The bloody suns out tomorrow and I’m reluctant to no know how fast I’m going, AAARGH!! can anyone help?
I don’t know if its coincidence but this came up the other week after I’d changed my pedal box location and inadvertently trapped the brake light switch so the brake lights were permanently on. I’ve since rectified the brake light issue but still have a broken speedo- I’d lay odds they are both related but I dunno how.

[shep1001]

brownspeed said:

Upon initiating the start up sequence on my Tamora, I receive the following message
“Speed zero press /\ \/ to cancel”
I’ve tried to press both buttons, and have been going through the LCD menu, all with no success. The bloody suns out tomorrow and I’m reluctant to no know how fast I’m going, AAARGH!! can anyone help?
I don’t know if its coincidence but this came up the other week after I’d changed my pedal box location and inadvertently trapped the brake light switch so the brake lights were permanently on. I’ve since rectified the brake light issue but still have a broken speedo- I’d lay odds they are both related but I dunno how.

I suggest its coincidence. The digital speedo will work fine. The analog speedo has a zero point setting in the clock pack parameters, it probably just needs to re-learn its zero position. Go into the clock pack settings menu, scroll to the 'speedo zero' parameter that will have a number next to that relates to the needle position at Zero mph (The tacho has one too) Enter/exit this parameter and return to the main screen. The dials should sweep on exit and it should be fine. Failing that it will need a fairly simple repair that somebody like Paul Smith can do for you.

[brownspeed]

thanks Shep, I'll try that.i May have tried it yesterday but in all honesty I tried that many permutations...Plus it was sunny so I had to keep driving in and out of the garage to see the display!

[brownspeed]

OK, so now I've tried speedo zero settings of "0" and also at full scale; nothing happens.
if I adjust the tacho zero - then I can get the needle to move.
I must point out at this point like most T car owners I am missing the first couple of lines of the LCD display!.
I have no idea if the digital speedo works when I'm driving (as its too sunny to see it), but I can definitely confirm (officer) that the analogue needle doesn't move when the car does!
also when I adjust the tacho setting the needle "pings" whereas the speedo remains resolutely still
could any of you do me a favour and look what your dash settings are (please)
mine is now
speedo zero = 0 (obviously not the right one)
tacho zero = 185
OH? and what the hell are flaps? and what should they be set at? (is that for take off or landing?)

[shep1001]

brownspeed said:

OK, so now I've tried speedo zero settings of "0" and also at full scale; nothing happens.
if I adjust the tacho zero - then I can get the needle to move.
I must point out at this point like most T car owners I am missing the first couple of lines of the LCD display!.
I have no idea if the digital speedo works when I'm driving (as its too sunny to see it), but I can definitely confirm (officer) that the analogue needle doesn't move when the car does!
also when I adjust the tacho setting the needle "pings" whereas the speedo remains resolutely still
could any of you do me a favour and look what your dash settings are (please)
mine is now
speedo zero = 0 (obviously not the right one)
tacho zero = 185
OH? and what the hell are flaps? and what should they be set at? (is that for take off or landing?)

Your flaps is the heater flap setting which should be about 15-25 (all different) is the setting to ensure that when the blower is set to cold no hot air bleeds through the screen level vents. My Tacho/speedo is set to 177/166. If the digital speedo is working its not the sender, the problem is on the clock pack/ECU end. Try unplugging the ribbon cables on the clock pack and re-connecting it to see if it mysteriously starts working again. If not and the needle fails to operate on the move or complete the 'dial sweep' on start up, it needs to go off to somebody like Paul Smith for repair. As you have been in the local area where the dash ECU is when you did the pedal box it could be something simple like the ribbon cable on the ECU end got disturbed and needs re-connecting properly?

If neither the digital or the analogue speedo is working it could be a loose ribbon cable connecting the clock pack and the dash ECU or more likely the speedo sender which is mounted on the diff (you can see it through the PS rear wheel) needs cleaning/adjusting or replacing. The connector for this is under the flocked panel that sits onto of the fuel tank in the boot (multi pin blue cable)

Shep

[

Edited by shep1001 on Monday 21st April 17:41

[brownspeed]

cheers for the response shep, will try next weekend now (project Mini RSP taking all my spare time currently)
If you're right, theres a virtual beer for you mate.
have a good evening pal

[brownspeed]

Barman, a pint of pina colada for my friend in the hat please!.
Shep; you were soooo right mate (thank god)
Whose bright idea was it to use the entire Velcro supplies of the western world to attach trim panels to ribbon cables and control boxes? how the hell you tall blokes would get to this beats me. without the aid of a left handed double jointed gynaecologist you've no chance.
there is just enough room to get one hand down the side of the pedal box (in any case the other hand is supporting my body weight)the Velcro was behind the trim panel and appears to secure it to the gubbins behind it(or vice versa). I had to detach the Velcro one handed whilst withdrawing the trim panel to expose the connectors and not drag the connectors out of their cave.
This must be the first time that being vertically challenged has been an advantage to TVR ownership.
many thanks y`all.

[sascha]

i have the same, but when i try to check the speedo settings at 8.) in the display nothing happens, the needle stays like glued, even when i set it from 0 to 255.

when i do the same with "tacho", the needle moves from left to right of zero.

this tacho is set to 179, so it's exactly at 0 on the rpm-scala.

should i change the battery cr2032 in the pod, or has somebody another advice ?

thank you very much for help !

Edited by sascha on Tuesday 20th May 21:04

[shep1001]

sascha said:

i have the same, but when i try to check the speedo settings at 8.) in the display nothing happens, the needle stays like glued, even when i set it from 0 to 255.

when i do the same with "tacho", the needle moves from left to right of zero.

this tacho is set to 179, so it's exactly at 0 of the rpm-scala.

should i change the battery cr2032 in the pod, or has somebody another advice ?

thank you very much for help !

Sorry its a bit late Sascha, its been a busy day. If the needle does not move at all, even when they should 'sweep' when you switch the ignition on, then I suggest it's either (a) ribbon cable that has come loose either at the back of the pod or on the dash ECU in the footwell (b) the motor that drives the needle has failed. Less likely would be (c) the cable has a fault or (d) there is a problem with the ECU. You could check this by swapping the cables between the speedo & tacho and see if the problem moves to the other dial.

If the digital speedo is not working either, when you are moving then the problem may not be with the clock pack but the speedo sensor mounted on the diff.

Regarding the battery, I would leave this well alone, unless you know what you are doing you can corrupt the dash ECU quite easily. I understand to change the battery you need to do it with a live 12v feed connected to the ECU so you don't loose the mileage etc.

Shep

Edited by shep1001 on Tuesday 20th May 21:11

[K4TRV]

brownspeed said:

Barman, a pint of pina colada for my friend in the hat please!.
Shep; you were soooo right mate (thank god)
Whose bright idea was it to use the entire Velcro supplies of the western world to attach trim panels to ribbon cables and control boxes? how the hell you tall blokes would get to this beats me. without the aid of a left handed double jointed gynaecologist you've no chance.
there is just enough room to get one hand down the side of the pedal box (in any case the other hand is supporting my body weight)the Velcro was behind the trim panel and appears to secure it to the gubbins behind it(or vice versa). I had to detach the Velcro one handed whilst withdrawing the trim panel to expose the connectors and not drag the connectors out of their cave.
This must be the first time that being vertically challenged has been an advantage to TVR ownership.
many thanks y`all.

Ah Ha !! You've discovered what the "V" is in TVR..............Velcro

The "T" in TVR is Tie-wraps.

[sascha]

shep1001 said:

Sorry its a bit late Sascha, its been a busy day. If the needle does not move at all, even when they should 'sweep' when you switch the ignition on, then I suggest it's either (a) ribbon cable that has come loose either at the back of the pod or on the dash ECU in the footwell (b) the motor that drives the needle has failed. Less likely would be (c) the cable has a fault or (d) there is a problem with the ECU. You could check this by swapping the cables between the speedo & tacho and see if the problem moves to the other dial.

If the digital speedo is not working either, when you are moving then the problem may not be with the clock pack but the speedo sensor mounted on the diff.

Regarding the battery, I would leave this well alone, unless you know what you are doing you can corrupt the dash ECU quite easily. I understand to change the battery you need to do it with a live 12v feed connected to the ECU so you don't loose the mileage etc.

Shep

Edited by shep1001 on Tuesday 20th May 21:11

thank you very, digital speedo works as all other in the dash.

i just "found" the dash-ecu, there are 2 grey ribbons with different plugs and on the other side 4 different colored plugs, what should i change for testing ?

could not find the plugs at the dashboard.

thank you !

p.s. it's done, i changed the cr2032 but even before this speedo decided to work again, so all went well, she is happy again.

Edited by sascha on Wednesday 21st May 08:54

Edited by sascha on Wednesday 21st May 09:51

[brownspeed]

[quote=K4TRV]
Ah Ha !! You've discovered what the "V" is in TVR..............Velcro

The "T" in TVR is Tie-wraps.
I think the "R" is phonetic as in ARGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH!