Tam very 'crashy' after Nitrons fitted!
Discussion
I'm interested in what their attitude was when you complained.
For me, they had their heads in the sand, not wanting to acknowledge that there is a problem.
I now run my old set of Gaz Monos on the road set up softish and change to the 46 Pros for TDs and sprints.
imho they have the valving set up incorrectly giving a harsh crashy ride even on a soft setting.
For me, they had their heads in the sand, not wanting to acknowledge that there is a problem.
I now run my old set of Gaz Monos on the road set up softish and change to the 46 Pros for TDs and sprints.
imho they have the valving set up incorrectly giving a harsh crashy ride even on a soft setting.
I don't know if Nitron have lost their way recently, or just have nobody giving decent feedback on their products in development stages but I've got a sagaris in at the moment and the front tyre catches the inside of the wheel arch and yet the damper top is nowhere near the bump stop when this happens. There is also only about an inch of droop travel when set at a sensible ride height. The rear seems much the same from a quick glance too. If these things are easy for me to spot after only 20 mins playing on the ramp then I just think these Sag spec dampers at least must have been badly specced from that start.
spitfire4v8 said:
I don't know if Nitron have lost their way recently, or just have nobody giving decent feedback on their products in development stages but I've got a sagaris in at the moment and the front tyre catches the inside of the wheel arch and yet the damper top is nowhere near the bump stop when this happens. There is also only about an inch of droop travel when set at a sensible ride height. The rear seems much the same from a quick glance too. If these things are easy for me to spot after only 20 mins playing on the ramp then I just think these Sag spec dampers at least must have been badly specced from that start.
FWIW, have you checked that he is on standard spec tyres? 
When I get time (involved in trying to sort out some major niggles from my re-trim ATM), I will replaced the springs with Eibachs, as these seem to work for some, and will change the front tyres to a 40 profile and then drive down to Neil Garner for a geo set up. Hopefully, that should help.
I have kind of got used to the harsher ride, but it's only really noticeable on badly surfaced roads - of which there are many....
I have kind of got used to the harsher ride, but it's only really noticeable on badly surfaced roads - of which there are many....
chris watton said:
When I get time (involved in trying to sort out some major niggles from my re-trim ATM), I will replaced the springs with Eibachs, as these seem to work for some, and will change the front tyres to a 40 profile and then drive down to Neil Garner for a geo set up. Hopefully, that should help.
I have kind of got used to the harsher ride, but it's only really noticeable on badly surfaced roads - of which there are many....
I assume you are on 35 profile tyres at the present (haven't scrolled back though all the pages to see). Changing to 40 profile should help (we all know how awfully many big saloon cars ride when the owner has specified 21 inch wheels, with rubber bands for tyres, on a car that comes with 18 inch wheels as standard).I have kind of got used to the harsher ride, but it's only really noticeable on badly surfaced roads - of which there are many....
What might also help is fitting tyres with a lower load rating. That's the two digit number on the side of the tyre. So if your tyre was say 235/40 R17 94W, the load rating is the 94. It relates to a table that tells you how many kilograms that corner of the car can carry on that tyre. And therefore tells you how stiff the sidewall is. The bigger the number the higher the load rating and the stiffer the sidewall.
My Audi has a load rating of 101 on its tyres. My wife's Mercedes M class 103.
My Toyo 888s for my TVR are a load rating of 91, and I feel every matchstick on the road if I have the dampers set hard.
My Federal's for the same car are 83 front and 87 rear, and with the dampers set hard I get a nice firm but compliant ride on the road, and, surprisingly, great handling on track.
Those lower load ratings still equate to around two tonnes in total, so I will only get anywhere near that if I take the wife on holiday in the TVR - with her entire wardrobe..... (before I get shot for calling her fat).
Soooo, if you are changing the tyres to some with a higher profile, try looking for some with a lower load rating and the same time to soften your ride a bit.
spitfire4v8 said:
Its the tyres hitting the top of the inner wheel arch .. they're bigger wheels and tyres but the rolling radius wont be 3 inches bigger than std, which is the amount the travel would be before hitting the bump stop! The dampers are wrong plain and simple.
Hi jooI had same front and rear and with Nitron changed bump stop thickness and spacers to resolve with a good result
Graham V
Pm me and I will dig out the fix
glow worm said:
Nitrons fit Eibachs,Bilstien fit Eibachs, TVR fitted Eibachs unless they are early 'T' car Harvey Baileys .. so I don't know what the OP is talking about 
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So, the set of Nitrons I bought were shipped with Eibach springs?
I thought they were Nitron's own, and, from what I can gather, some people change those springs to Eibachs.
Some say it won't make any difference, some say it will - I don't know. What I do know is that the settings are much harder than standard. Some say it could have something to do with valve ratings - some say that if I change tyres, that will help.
In conclusion, you are correct, I don't know what I am talking about. This is why I posted on here, to try and get answers and advice from people who have much more of a clue than me.
Anyone tried the AST that RG offer? Supposedly a specifically setup version for TVR's.
I just want the car to have high quality suspension gear... stiff and roll resistant as possible while retaining compliance, adjustable for occasional track.
I feel the Nitrons are setup 90% to go actual racing in, and I was simply mis-sold them. Cant be bothered or have the time to go round the block with this thing, getting re-valved, springs etc...
I already tried softer 40 section tires with the vdreds, helped a lot + probable placebo factor, but I then acclimatized and started cringing again at potholes... interestingly, impact into a speed bump at speed is handled very very acceptably. I once hit a wedge shape one at 30mph and was amazed at how well it took it, and completely controlled despite being on a bend and hitting it on one corner. I got an impression that the high speed hit was more comfortable than lower speed, but that was probably as a result of the shortfall in what happened vs what I was expecting.
I'm deducing this thing is specifically designed to deal with higher energies found in racing, hitting apex kerbs and what not, and maintaining contact at all times with the track while compromising comfort.
But no I dont really know what I'm talking about really, just trying to describe what it feels like as best I can.
I just want the car to have high quality suspension gear... stiff and roll resistant as possible while retaining compliance, adjustable for occasional track.
I feel the Nitrons are setup 90% to go actual racing in, and I was simply mis-sold them. Cant be bothered or have the time to go round the block with this thing, getting re-valved, springs etc...
I already tried softer 40 section tires with the vdreds, helped a lot + probable placebo factor, but I then acclimatized and started cringing again at potholes... interestingly, impact into a speed bump at speed is handled very very acceptably. I once hit a wedge shape one at 30mph and was amazed at how well it took it, and completely controlled despite being on a bend and hitting it on one corner. I got an impression that the high speed hit was more comfortable than lower speed, but that was probably as a result of the shortfall in what happened vs what I was expecting.
I'm deducing this thing is specifically designed to deal with higher energies found in racing, hitting apex kerbs and what not, and maintaining contact at all times with the track while compromising comfort.
But no I dont really know what I'm talking about really, just trying to describe what it feels like as best I can.
I think some of you guys are overlooking the springs somewhat.
Here's what we know:
TVR Standard Eibachs are 195 lbs/in front, 230 lbs/in rear
Nitron Springs supplied are 400 lbs/ins front and 325 lbs/in rear.
This is obviously a really big increase in stiffness and is a huge contributor to the (lack of) ride comfort on Nitrons.
At some point I will go back and try softer springs on the Nitron dampers to see if I can find a working compromise.
In my dealings with Nitron they denied having ever had a complaint and pointed out that they were geared towards fast road use, not strictly track. My spine says different!
Here's what we know:
TVR Standard Eibachs are 195 lbs/in front, 230 lbs/in rear
Nitron Springs supplied are 400 lbs/ins front and 325 lbs/in rear.
This is obviously a really big increase in stiffness and is a huge contributor to the (lack of) ride comfort on Nitrons.
At some point I will go back and try softer springs on the Nitron dampers to see if I can find a working compromise.
In my dealings with Nitron they denied having ever had a complaint and pointed out that they were geared towards fast road use, not strictly track. My spine says different!
ChrisPap said:
Here's what we know:
In my dealings with Nitron they denied having ever had a complaint and pointed out that they were geared towards fast road use, not strictly track. My spine says different!
Which is a complete lie.In my dealings with Nitron they denied having ever had a complaint and pointed out that they were geared towards fast road use, not strictly track. My spine says different!
They had loads of phone calls and emails from the supplier of my Nitrons and me.
At one point they offered my money back.
It's funny how just about anyone will turn to a lie for convenience.
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