Help Needed For Broken Down Tamora
Discussion
Hi
Not something I wanted to post after just 1 hour of Tamora ownership. Loved every minute of that first hour though lol
Basically driving her home from Bristol to London on the M4 and all was fine. Until both needles on the dash started going mad and then dropped to zero. The digital display said zero as well even though I was in 5th doing 70 mph. Then car started to lose power so I had to pull over onto the hard shoulder and call the RAC.
They managed to get me 12 miles to the services by using the jump leads plugged in the below car and connected to a new battery in passenger footwell via the window. My battery wasn't giving off enough charge apparently only 8 volts I think.
He reckons it's probably the alternator or possibly a fuse to the dash which then sends a signal to the alternator. I've heard about the 100 amp main fuse, could this have anything to do with it?
Car was completely dead when I got her home, couldn't even do up the windows or open the boot.
Car was low loaded home and is on charge in my garage, so any help would be much appreciated.
Still smiling and can't wait to open my garage in a minute for the first time!!!
Cheers, Gary
Not something I wanted to post after just 1 hour of Tamora ownership. Loved every minute of that first hour though lol
Basically driving her home from Bristol to London on the M4 and all was fine. Until both needles on the dash started going mad and then dropped to zero. The digital display said zero as well even though I was in 5th doing 70 mph. Then car started to lose power so I had to pull over onto the hard shoulder and call the RAC.
They managed to get me 12 miles to the services by using the jump leads plugged in the below car and connected to a new battery in passenger footwell via the window. My battery wasn't giving off enough charge apparently only 8 volts I think.
He reckons it's probably the alternator or possibly a fuse to the dash which then sends a signal to the alternator. I've heard about the 100 amp main fuse, could this have anything to do with it?
Car was completely dead when I got her home, couldn't even do up the windows or open the boot.
Car was low loaded home and is on charge in my garage, so any help would be much appreciated.
Still smiling and can't wait to open my garage in a minute for the first time!!!
Cheers, Gary
Did you notice what the alternator was putting out before the loss of electric?
I too would start with the midi fuse under the airbox. Ceramic versions last longer in the exposed engine bay. There's another one for the power steering that's near the battery. That's worth changing to ceramic too. Oh and buy spares atthe same time. Car has 2 80amp and 1 100amp fuses.
I too would start with the midi fuse under the airbox. Ceramic versions last longer in the exposed engine bay. There's another one for the power steering that's near the battery. That's worth changing to ceramic too. Oh and buy spares atthe same time. Car has 2 80amp and 1 100amp fuses.
Thanks for all the replies, didn't tick the notify box so didn't realize I had help.
Quick learning curve for me after 16 years of Lotus ownership but don't regret it at all.
Right, I saw 11.1v on the dashboard once I pulled over because the previous owner asked what it said.
Where would you get the ceramic fuses from, can't imagine Halfords sell them?
I've had the car on charge as it has a trickle charger in the boot but car is completely dead, can't even shut the door as it must be locked in open position. Nothing on dash and alarm went off then died slowly.
BrightyellowTVR, I've started a new happier topic with pictures.
Quick learning curve for me after 16 years of Lotus ownership but don't regret it at all.
Right, I saw 11.1v on the dashboard once I pulled over because the previous owner asked what it said.
Where would you get the ceramic fuses from, can't imagine Halfords sell them?
I've had the car on charge as it has a trickle charger in the boot but car is completely dead, can't even shut the door as it must be locked in open position. Nothing on dash and alarm went off then died slowly.
BrightyellowTVR, I've started a new happier topic with pictures.
GazzaM100 said:
Do they look like these but couldn't see any ceramic ones?
Is it easy to remove the airbox?
Thanks
lots of threads about changing the alternator fuse but basically - remove pipes, two screws holding brackets at the top, loosen the clips that can clearly be seen, slide your arm from the front down under the airbox and you will feel the hidden clip, gently remove the air box. The fuse is in a plastic carrier close to the alternator. Use a small socket to loosen the screws NB: either disconnect the battery of insulate your spanner or there will be fireworks! The standard fuse is a flat plate. Replace with one of the ones you have shown here. Is it easy to remove the airbox?
Thanks
Thanks for the detailed reply especially about the fireworks lol
Is it possible to disconnect the battery without removing the wheel because there's not much room in my garage after it was pushed in and not driven in and car is completely dead?
Also what alternator is used and roughly how much in case I need one after all?
Cheers everyone for helping, was hoping to ease my way into TVR ownership but think 50 odd minutes could be a record
Thanks, Gary
Is it possible to disconnect the battery without removing the wheel because there's not much room in my garage after it was pushed in and not driven in and car is completely dead?
Also what alternator is used and roughly how much in case I need one after all?
Cheers everyone for helping, was hoping to ease my way into TVR ownership but think 50 odd minutes could be a record
Thanks, Gary
Gazza
The problem will almost certainly be due to the fuse. The reason so many people can answer your questions is because the same thing has happened to so many of us. It is these annoying little issues that got TVR a bad name but once you have upgraded the obvious weak spots the cars are fantastic.
I don't think you can disconnect the battery without removing the wheel. I bought myself a cheap socket, taped it with insulating tape, fixed the fuse and kept the socket spanner in the car 'just in case'. So far I have never needed it again!
The problem will almost certainly be due to the fuse. The reason so many people can answer your questions is because the same thing has happened to so many of us. It is these annoying little issues that got TVR a bad name but once you have upgraded the obvious weak spots the cars are fantastic.
I don't think you can disconnect the battery without removing the wheel. I bought myself a cheap socket, taped it with insulating tape, fixed the fuse and kept the socket spanner in the car 'just in case'. So far I have never needed it again!
Thanks for the links to the Alternators and also any information. I assumed it must be a common problem as so many mentioned it. Just wonder why such a large fuse could blow, surely that means there is a problem somewhere else?
So if this fuse has blown will it stop my car from charging using the trickle charger. Because its been on for nearly 48 hrs and still totally dead.
Hoping to look at it properly tomorrow if I get away from work early enough.
Monty, any idea what size socket you taped up, so I can do that tonight in preparation for tomorrow?
So if this fuse has blown will it stop my car from charging using the trickle charger. Because its been on for nearly 48 hrs and still totally dead.
Hoping to look at it properly tomorrow if I get away from work early enough.
Monty, any idea what size socket you taped up, so I can do that tonight in preparation for tomorrow?
GazzaM100 said:
Thanks for the links to the Alternators and also any information. I assumed it must be a common problem as so many mentioned it. Just wonder why such a large fuse could blow, surely that means there is a problem somewhere else?
So if this fuse has blown will it stop my car from charging using the trickle charger. Because its been on for nearly 48 hrs and still totally dead.
Hoping to look at it properly tomorrow if I get away from work early enough.
Monty, any idea what size socket you taped up, so I can do that tonight in preparation for tomorrow?
Sadly, I would suggest you also purchase a new battery from a reputable TVR supplier (Modern batteries really do not stand being fully discharged and yours sound pretty FUBARd) - size is very important as is location of terminals.So if this fuse has blown will it stop my car from charging using the trickle charger. Because its been on for nearly 48 hrs and still totally dead.
Hoping to look at it properly tomorrow if I get away from work early enough.
Monty, any idea what size socket you taped up, so I can do that tonight in preparation for tomorrow?
Somehow you do need to get the existing battery disconnected, even one which won't charge can harbour sufficient energy to either melt cables or even split its casing if shorted - just be careful if you don't isolate it when changing the fuse!! The fuse has nothing to do with charging the battery conventionally (cigar plug or anderson connector underneath!
Good luck.
P.S. when you do reconnect a new battery, keep your doors open as the alarm will probably try and raise the windows and lock the doors!!
T
K4TRV said:
GazzaM100 said:
Thanks for the links to the Alternators and also any information. I assumed it must be a common problem as so many mentioned it. Just wonder why such a large fuse could blow, surely that means there is a problem somewhere else?
So if this fuse has blown will it stop my car from charging using the trickle charger. Because its been on for nearly 48 hrs and still totally dead.
Hoping to look at it properly tomorrow if I get away from work early enough.
Monty, any idea what size socket you taped up, so I can do that tonight in preparation for tomorrow?
Sadly, I would suggest you also purchase a new battery from a reputable TVR supplier (Modern batteries really do not stand being fully discharged and yours sound pretty FUBARd) - size is very important as is location of terminals.So if this fuse has blown will it stop my car from charging using the trickle charger. Because its been on for nearly 48 hrs and still totally dead.
Hoping to look at it properly tomorrow if I get away from work early enough.
Monty, any idea what size socket you taped up, so I can do that tonight in preparation for tomorrow?
Somehow you do need to get the existing battery disconnected, even one which won't charge can harbour sufficient energy to either melt cables or even split its casing if shorted - just be careful if you don't isolate it when changing the fuse!! The fuse has nothing to do with charging the battery conventionally (cigar plug or anderson connector underneath!
Good luck.
P.S. when you do reconnect a new battery, keep your doors open as the alarm will probably try and raise the windows and lock the doors!!
T
chris watton said:
I am wondering if it would be wise to get Powers performance to replace the battery and do the Anderson connector charging/jump start plug mod at the same time, just to be on the safe side..
^^+1^^ Many battery chargers require the battery to have at least 8+ volts at the terminals before they will start charging?? If you still want to try and recharge use an "old-fashioned" charger that, if not disconnected, can overcharge/boil a changed battery - better still get a new battery - the hassle of keeping an old battery charged will get wearing!! Got the tee shirt!!T
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