fuel rail/hose prob, help
Discussion
I had my brother take the fuel rail off for me over the weekend, but a problem :-( he managed to kink the plastic/nylon fuel hose :-( he as cut it but it seems really reluctant (i think he said imposible) for the hose to slip over the barb, he as tried soaking it in hot water to soften the hose but still no luck.... Is he trying the imposible? Any advice appreciated "please".
Aimy :-(
Aimy :-(
Wow... I hate to say it but this is a b
h of a job. I've done it before but with the engine removed.
The following two threads have details of how I did it, plus suggestions from others. Your going to need to make a clamping device, in those threads mine is the wooden clamping device. It is do able but space is going to be tight with the engine in.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=14&...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Page 2
The alternative which might be easier is to replace the pipe with a completely new run of piping with the banjos already pressed in.
You could connect the new fuel line to the old fuel line (ie gaffer tape the pipes together) and draw it down between the body and the heat shielding on the chassis. Again I've done that aswell and it may prove easier in your situation.
Multipart had the fuel line kits in stock in the summer, which are now with the new TVR parts.com.
Hope that helps.
h of a job. I've done it before but with the engine removed. The following two threads have details of how I did it, plus suggestions from others. Your going to need to make a clamping device, in those threads mine is the wooden clamping device. It is do able but space is going to be tight with the engine in.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=14&...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Page 2
The alternative which might be easier is to replace the pipe with a completely new run of piping with the banjos already pressed in.
You could connect the new fuel line to the old fuel line (ie gaffer tape the pipes together) and draw it down between the body and the heat shielding on the chassis. Again I've done that aswell and it may prove easier in your situation.
Multipart had the fuel line kits in stock in the summer, which are now with the new TVR parts.com.
Hope that helps.
Edited by m4tti on Wednesday 17th December 18:33
Ive been told to ask :-( would it be a option to replace the fuel line with such as braided and use AN6 fittings? i.e. using a adaptor in the end of the fuel rail with a AN6 fitting? or maybe thats just complicating things:-( just in case.. any idea what the thread is on the fuel rail? M14?
I have emailed TVR parts to ask if they do a kit, we have a pit here so maybe that will make things a tad easier?
Aimy :-( :-(
I have emailed TVR parts to ask if they do a kit, we have a pit here so maybe that will make things a tad easier?
Aimy :-( :-(
m4tti said:
The following two threads have details of how I did it........ ]
Nice bit of improvisation!If you have a few to do here's the proper tool.
You could try braided. The existing nylon pipe is easy to replace due to its slippery exterior and it's narrow gauge. There is very little room between the body an insulation we're talking mm's. Then you need to route it above the diff to the fuel filter. Some one out there probably has done braided in situ though. I just wanted the least hassle solution.
With the infancy of tvr parts you'd be better off phoning and asking for Luke, he sorted out a hose kit for me in the summer so will be familiar with the part number.
With the infancy of tvr parts you'd be better off phoning and asking for Luke, he sorted out a hose kit for me in the summer so will be familiar with the part number.
Getting the plastic pipe back on will be a task. I've successfully done it in the past by clamping the banjo/barb fitting in a vice and heating the barb with a hot air gun (paint stripper type of thing) until it is really hot.
Then push the plastic pipe over the barb. Do not heat the plastic pipe before hand, you need the stiffness of the cold pipe to allow you to push hard enough to get it to go over the barb.
As the cold plastic pipe reaches the hot barb it softens allowing the end of the pipe to expand over the barb, but the bit you're pushing on remains cool and stiff enough for you to push on it.
Hope that makes sense.
Then leave it all to gradually cool down.
usual disclaimers about fuel pipes and trying stuff yourself apply.
if in doubt try and replace the whole lot with a ready made part.
Then push the plastic pipe over the barb. Do not heat the plastic pipe before hand, you need the stiffness of the cold pipe to allow you to push hard enough to get it to go over the barb.
As the cold plastic pipe reaches the hot barb it softens allowing the end of the pipe to expand over the barb, but the bit you're pushing on remains cool and stiff enough for you to push on it.
Hope that makes sense.
Then leave it all to gradually cool down.
usual disclaimers about fuel pipes and trying stuff yourself apply.
if in doubt try and replace the whole lot with a ready made part.
phillpot said:
Nice find!!! If only id seen this when I needed one.Probably your next best option is to remove the hose from the car by releasing the banjo from the fuel filter, then taking the complete hose and the banjo from the fuel rail to your nearest Pirtek and ask them to press the banjo back into the hose. This will reduce the chances of further damage.
If you still have problems, buy a new run of hose from these guys and start again ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181461970839?_trksid=p20...
If you still have problems, buy a new run of hose from these guys and start again ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181461970839?_trksid=p20...
m4tti said:
Probably your next best option is to remove the hose from the car by releasing the banjo from the fuel filter, then taking the complete hose and the banjo from the fuel rail to your nearest Pirtek and ask them to press the banjo back into the hose. This will reduce the chances of further damage.
If you still have problems, buy a new run of hose from these guys and start again ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181461970839?_trksid=p20...
Thanks....If you still have problems, buy a new run of hose from these guys and start again ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181461970839?_trksid=p20...
m4tti said:
The alternative which might be easier is to replace the pipe with a completely new run of piping with the banjos already pressed in.
You could connect the new fuel line to the old fuel line (ie gaffer tape the pipes together) and draw it down between the body and the heat shielding on the chassis. Again I've done that aswell and it may prove easier in your situation.
Multipart had the fuel line kits in stock in the summer, which are now with the new TVR parts.com.
Hope that helps.
The Tam is finally over the pit :-) a question to what looks nearly impossible and to the best way forward re: which hose to use?You could connect the new fuel line to the old fuel line (ie gaffer tape the pipes together) and draw it down between the body and the heat shielding on the chassis. Again I've done that aswell and it may prove easier in your situation.
Multipart had the fuel line kits in stock in the summer, which are now with the new TVR parts.com.
Hope that helps.
Edited by m4tti on Wednesday 17th December 18:33
A/ Using a -6 hose with banjo/an6 fittings, the question is? if we attach the -6 hose to the standard pipe and "try" to draw it though :-( is the standard hose attached above the heat shielding? i.e. cable ties etc, hopefully not, if it isnt there might be a good chance, if its attached maybe impossible.....
B/ option 2 is using the standard type fuel line, but the prob will be the banjo/tail fittings, we could get one of the fittings pressed in but the other will have to be fitted in situ, so back to square one :-(
Any advice/ideas appreciated.....
Miss VXTamora said:
The Tam is finally over the pit :-) a question to what looks nearly impossible and to the best way forward re: which hose to use?
A/ Using a -6 hose with banjo/an6 fittings, the question is? if we attach the -6 hose to the standard pipe and "try" to draw it though :-( is the standard hose attached above the heat shielding? i.e. cable ties etc, hopefully not, if it isnt there might be a good chance, if its attached maybe impossible.....
B/ option 2 is using the standard type fuel line, but the prob will be the banjo/tail fittings, we could get one of the fittings pressed in but the other will have to be fitted in situ, so back to square one :-(
Any advice/ideas appreciated.....
Neither the feed or the return pipes are cable tied in place. A/ Using a -6 hose with banjo/an6 fittings, the question is? if we attach the -6 hose to the standard pipe and "try" to draw it though :-( is the standard hose attached above the heat shielding? i.e. cable ties etc, hopefully not, if it isnt there might be a good chance, if its attached maybe impossible.....
B/ option 2 is using the standard type fuel line, but the prob will be the banjo/tail fittings, we could get one of the fittings pressed in but the other will have to be fitted in situ, so back to square one :-(
Any advice/ideas appreciated.....
I've fed new standard hose back through the tunnel, but that's a lot easier than braided.
If your determined to use braided I'd attach welding wire or fishing line to the existing pipe before taking it out. That way you'll have something to pull the braided hose through with.
Maybe another option Matt? we noticed the replacement fuel line in the ebay link you posted http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181461970839?_trksid=p20... says that it comes complete with 2 brass pipe inserts for use with high pressure compression fittings, do you think this might be a option with such as http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160763977608
We already have the an6 banjo on the fuel rail as we had to move the tam to the pit, so they ended up having to slot the -6 (8mm id) hose over the standard 8mm od with clips to move the Tam :-(
We already have the an6 banjo on the fuel rail as we had to move the tam to the pit, so they ended up having to slot the -6 (8mm id) hose over the standard 8mm od with clips to move the Tam :-(
I haven't used any of the AN hard line fittings, they might work well with that hose. The brass inserts that come with that rigid nylon pipe simply push in. I guess it depends if they extend far enough into the pipe for those fittings.
You might also find it easier to put the bango back in the line with the line removed from the car. You can do it with a block of wood, kettle and perseverance. Perfect Sunday afternoon entertainment. Dont be nervous of pulling the line out, it will go back in.
You might also find it easier to put the bango back in the line with the line removed from the car. You can do it with a block of wood, kettle and perseverance. Perfect Sunday afternoon entertainment. Dont be nervous of pulling the line out, it will go back in.
Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff