Removing Tamora gearbox, any tips?
Discussion
notax said:
Thanks, it certainly looks tight. Will check clutch too, car will be on the market soon - I've been happy driving it with a slight, occasional resistance when engaging 5th gear, but thought the new owner could benefit from a rebuild!
Prepare this for the upper driver side bolt... :-)https://www.dropbox.com/s/84zrydjl8v2eudh/IMGP7251...
A transmission jack can be very useful. Do you use a 4 post lift or similar?
RobertoBlanco said:
Prepare this for the upper driver side bolt... :-)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/84zrydjl8v2eudh/IMGP7251...
A transmission jack can be very useful. Do you use a 4 post lift or similar?
Excellent, thanks very much. I have to use something similar to get to one of the awkward bolts on my BMW rally car gearbox! Fortunately I have both a 4 post ramp, a transmission jack... and my own mechanic https://www.dropbox.com/s/84zrydjl8v2eudh/IMGP7251...
A transmission jack can be very useful. Do you use a 4 post lift or similar?
Easy. Battery disconnect, under trays off, exhausts off, prop off by 4 nasty bolts on diff flange, catch oil from tail if front up high, bell housing bolts out bar one at the bottom, starter off which means air box off etc.. All easy but hard work, if you get my drift. The gear lever I hate.... I remove the interior trim/console and take the four bolts from above and pull the lever out, I have seen this done from underneath but must be a small hand required. Probably best to do first while you are clean. The gearbox mounts are pigs, catch the washers and the heat guard if fitted, at this point you will be supporting the box on a trolley jack. I let the engine lean back a touch but remember it is still plumbed so best to prop where it is. I lift the box out by hand, I don't have ramps/pad lift so I just get hold of it once the last bolt is out and pretend to be a body builder for 5 seconds. The hydraulic hose for the clutch will need disconnecting and you can either do on the body bulkhead, with care though as this may be corroded, or better off at the box end in which case you will need a slim brake line spanner or do once landed if the line is long enough, usually are but remember to cut the cable ties. Make tea.
Clutch is heavy and bolts to be eased off, not one at a time but half a turn in sequence. Don't be surprised if the butterfly springs are snapped or fingers broken/worn. I don't know why these clutches don't seem to last, they appear tough and feel well made.
Good luck
J
Clutch is heavy and bolts to be eased off, not one at a time but half a turn in sequence. Don't be surprised if the butterfly springs are snapped or fingers broken/worn. I don't know why these clutches don't seem to last, they appear tough and feel well made.
Good luck
J
Sagi Badger said:
Easy. Battery disconnect, under trays off, exhausts off, prop off by 4 nasty bolts on diff flange, catch oil from tail if front up high, bell housing bolts out bar one at the bottom, starter off which means air box off etc.. All easy but hard work, if you get my drift. The gear lever I hate.... I remove the interior trim/console and take the four bolts from above and pull the lever out, I have seen this done from underneath but must be a small hand required. Probably best to do first while you are clean. The gearbox mounts are pigs, catch the washers and the heat guard if fitted, at this point you will be supporting the box on a trolley jack. I let the engine lean back a touch but remember it is still plumbed so best to prop where it is. I lift the box out by hand, I don't have ramps/pad lift so I just get hold of it once the last bolt is out and pretend to be a body builder for 5 seconds. The hydraulic hose for the clutch will need disconnecting and you can either do on the body bulkhead, with care though as this may be corroded, or better off at the box end in which case you will need a slim brake line spanner or do once landed if the line is long enough, usually are but remember to cut the cable ties. Make tea.
Clutch is heavy and bolts to be eased off, not one at a time but half a turn in sequence. Don't be surprised if the butterfly springs are snapped or fingers broken/worn. I don't know why these clutches don't seem to last, they appear tough and feel well made.
Good luck
J
That's really helpful, thanks... impressed you manage it without a ramp Clutch is heavy and bolts to be eased off, not one at a time but half a turn in sequence. Don't be surprised if the butterfly springs are snapped or fingers broken/worn. I don't know why these clutches don't seem to last, they appear tough and feel well made.
Good luck
J
notax said:
Excellent, thanks very much. I have to use something similar to get to one of the awkward bolts on my BMW rally car gearbox! Fortunately I have both a 4 post ramp, a transmission jack... and my own mechanic
I'm impressed. Peace of cake then! ;-)Forget about removing the 4 bolts of the gearshift assembly from cabin side. We just undid the grub screw from the gearshift assy and took it off. Much less hassle and you gain enough space to remove the gearbox afterwards. (Tuscan pics, but pretty much the same on all t-cars.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tz8k5lupybrn7w6/IMGP6921...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ykimhgybtad3x4m/IMGP6915...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsfe9qa14r0831l/IMGP7246...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0g9203fg8tbljkr/IMGP7198...
And yes you do need small fingers to get to these 4 bolts from the underside of the car. First time i did it although I don't have small hands, anyway. Then it dawned on me, that you do not have to remove them at all. Plus you do not have to re-adjust the reverse switch afterwards, which can be a pain
Yep agree with it being best to get the grub screws out but one of mine is through bolted and the other has three locking set screws/bolts so not so easy. Nothing TVR is ever the same.
No ramp... no problem, I did a Mk 1 transit rear core plug without a ramp in the snow in the road after the frost got to an antifreeze-less engine, was a lot younger then but an effin heavy box and I was wet and very cold.
J
No ramp... no problem, I did a Mk 1 transit rear core plug without a ramp in the snow in the road after the frost got to an antifreeze-less engine, was a lot younger then but an effin heavy box and I was wet and very cold.
J
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