Tamora chassis replacement!
Discussion
Tamora, registered Jan 2002, 85,000 miles, first customer car...
Over the past few years I've needed various sections of the chassis repaired due to excessive corrosion. Now it's got to the stage that it's not worth carrying out further section repairs but better to have the whole chassis removed and repaired properly! Ouch!
Looks like car'll be off the road for a few months and I'll be A LOT lighter in the pocket! Still seems sensible to get the work done as it can't be sold in its present state and with Tamora prices rising it's a good investment. Not that I see ownership as an investment as I've had the car coming up to 15 years and still smile every time I drive it.
I'm told TVR stored the chassis outdoors in the elements so water gets inside so they rot from the inside out!
I'm a bit p1ssed off so just venting really. Has anyone else had major chassis issues?
Cheers....
Andrew
Over the past few years I've needed various sections of the chassis repaired due to excessive corrosion. Now it's got to the stage that it's not worth carrying out further section repairs but better to have the whole chassis removed and repaired properly! Ouch!
Looks like car'll be off the road for a few months and I'll be A LOT lighter in the pocket! Still seems sensible to get the work done as it can't be sold in its present state and with Tamora prices rising it's a good investment. Not that I see ownership as an investment as I've had the car coming up to 15 years and still smile every time I drive it.
I'm told TVR stored the chassis outdoors in the elements so water gets inside so they rot from the inside out!
I'm a bit p1ssed off so just venting really. Has anyone else had major chassis issues?
Cheers....
Andrew
Targarama said:
That isn't a problem with the later cars.
Agreed but the cats so close to the chassis the constant high heat cycles in excess of 400*c + this breaks down the powder coating and eventually you get micro cracks in the material, moist gets in and starts to corrode from within and it lifts the powder coating from the chassis.My remedy to protect against this I've used 2mm aluminium sheet and got the engineering department at work to use a specialist ceramic coating we use in the power stations to reflect the heat back and put that between the cats,chassis and engine.
You can also use the foil aluminum that automotive manufacturers use to protect there own chaissis from exhaust heat and its cheap as well its fiddly fit but it'll give you better protection than nothing. It's a bit fiddly but doable.
Buzz
BuzzBillsberry said:
Targarama said:
That isn't a problem with the later cars.
Agreed but the cats so close to the chassis the constant high heat cycles in excess of 400*c + this breaks down the powder coating and eventually you get micro cracks in the material, moist gets in and starts to corrode from within and it lifts the powder coating from the chassis.My remedy to protect against this I've used 2mm aluminium sheet and got the engineering department at work to use a specialist ceramic coating we use in the power stations to reflect the heat back and put that between the cats,chassis and engine.
You can also use the foil aluminum that automotive manufacturers use to protect there own chaissis from exhaust heat and its cheap as well its fiddly fit but it'll give you better protection than nothing. It's a bit fiddly but doable.
Buzz
This is not visible while the engine is in or the body is on!!!!!
I had engine mount spacers inserted to lift the manifolds leaving 20mm above the chassis rails.
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Edited by portzi on Saturday 15th October 12:01
Edited by portzi on Saturday 15th October 14:10
BuzzBillsberry said:
Targarama said:
That isn't a problem with the later cars.
Agreed but the cats so close to the chassis the constant high heat cycles in excess of 400*c + this breaks down the powder coating and eventually you get micro cracks in the material, moist gets in and starts to corrode from within and it lifts the powder coating from the chassis.My remedy to protect against this I've used 2mm aluminium sheet and got the engineering department at work to use a specialist ceramic coating we use in the power stations to reflect the heat back and put that between the cats,chassis and engine.
You can also use the foil aluminum that automotive manufacturers use to protect there own chaissis from exhaust heat and its cheap as well its fiddly fit but it'll give you better protection than nothing. It's a bit fiddly but doable.
Buzz
Ditching the cats helps immensely.
Thanks all for the replies. The car's in the process of being "patched-up" (FOC) at TVR Power and will then go back to them in the new year to have the full chassis work done. I believe the chassis will be sent to RT Racing to do the actual work.
The photo I posted was from nearside wheel arch so not sure if the problem with those sections can be put down to excessive heat.
As someone's said this issue isn't entirely surprising for a car that's approaching 15 years old. The good news is the value of Tamoras is going up an up, not that I've got any intention of selling!
Cheers....
Andrew
The photo I posted was from nearside wheel arch so not sure if the problem with those sections can be put down to excessive heat.
As someone's said this issue isn't entirely surprising for a car that's approaching 15 years old. The good news is the value of Tamoras is going up an up, not that I've got any intention of selling!
Cheers....
Andrew
You can have exhaust parts coated in camcoat - it make a real lot of difference to the amount of radiated heat.
I use it on my manifolds.
http://www.camcoat.com/
I use it on my manifolds.
http://www.camcoat.com/
ALT said:
Thanks all for the replies. The car's in the process of being "patched-up" (FOC) at TVR Power and will then go back to them in the new year to have the full chassis work done. I believe the chassis will be sent to RT Racing to do the actual work.
The photo I posted was from nearside wheel arch so not sure if the problem with those sections can be put down to excessive heat.
As someone's said this issue isn't entirely surprising for a car that's approaching 15 years old. The good news is the value of Tamoras is going up an up, not that I've got any intention of selling!
Cheers....
Andrew
I think you're right about the values. I bought mine in 2013 (exactly three years ago) for £16k. Now, it seems the same car (as was, without mods) would be priced at around the £20k mark.The photo I posted was from nearside wheel arch so not sure if the problem with those sections can be put down to excessive heat.
As someone's said this issue isn't entirely surprising for a car that's approaching 15 years old. The good news is the value of Tamoras is going up an up, not that I've got any intention of selling!
Cheers....
Andrew
Car went into TVR Power on Monday and is now officially SORN! Work will take an estimated two months. Going to miss her but at least it's during a stty time of year when the weather's awful!
Let's hope the next two months don't drag by and we have great weather in April!
Cheers....
Andrew
Let's hope the next two months don't drag by and we have great weather in April!
Cheers....
Andrew
ALT said:
Car went into TVR Power on Monday and is now officially SORN! Work will take an estimated two months. Going to miss her but at least it's during a stty time of year when the weather's awful!
Let's hope the next two months don't drag by and we have great weather in April!
Cheers....
Andrew
I hope you've already thought through all the options you'll be asked to decide upon during the reassembly Let's hope the next two months don't drag by and we have great weather in April!
Cheers....
Andrew
RedSpike66 said:
TVRMs said:
I hope you've already thought through all the options you'll be asked to decide upon during the reassembly
Go on.. give us a list...What would you like the chassis treated with..
Would you like the individual chassis rails drilled tapped and sprayed inside with waxoyl.
Would you like..
Non load bearing bolting changed for stainless.
Your exhaust and cats coated.
Uprated front and rear brakes (bigger discs)
New uprated shocks and springs
Suspension bush material change
Brake and fuel lines in hose rather than CUNI pipe /rubber
Fuel tank baffle / larger swirl pot
?
TVRMs said:
In no particular order..
I restore TVR chassis' for a living, so I can give you my answers if it helps at all?:TVRMs said:
What would you like the chassis treated with..
I'd go either thermal zinc spray (like galvanising) and suitable 2k top coat, or go for something like POR15 with all the prior metal prep stuff, and a suitable top coat.TVRMs said:
Would you like the individual chassis rails drilled tapped and sprayed inside with waxoyl.
I wouldn't bother, invites more problems than it solves. They don't rust from the inside out as much people would have you believe, it's only normally if a hole has surfaced and allowed moisture inside in the first place that you have a problem. In your pic up the top there, that's rusted externally. Cerberas are terrible for going up there, especially on the V8.TVRMs said:
Would you like....
Non load bearing bolting changed for stainless.
I offer this, and I did it on my own car, but if you think about it, it's really only isolated to body mounting bolts and and clamps for the fuel pump - that kind of thing. So you use stainless bolts and they don't rust. Great. That'll make it easier each time you remove the body, even though in the event you do that you'd renew all the fixings anyway. Makes no sense to use stainless, except for vanity. Probably why I did it Non load bearing bolting changed for stainless.
TVRMs said:
Your exhaust and cats coated.
Worth doing, but pricey.TVRMs said:
Uprated front and rear brakes (bigger discs)
Your call.TVRMs said:
New uprated shocks and springs
Your call.TVRMs said:
Suspension bush material change
I would. I use Powerflex on TVR chassis'. Any other poly bush is inferior (speaking from experience)TVRMs said:
Brake and fuel lines in hose rather than CUNI pipe /rubber
Kunifer and decent rubber hose is fine. Check out the posts I've done in the Griffith/Chimaera/S forums for the fun and games we've had on fuel hoses cracking due to ethanol contamination, though. I'm using Gates Barricade now.TVRMs said:
Fuel tank baffle / larger swirl pot
Your call - a Speed Six guru would be able to advise you better.Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff