Tamora chassis replacement!

Tamora chassis replacement!

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Discussion

ALT

Original Poster:

1,879 posts

281 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
quotequote all
Tamora, registered Jan 2002, 85,000 miles, first customer car...

Over the past few years I've needed various sections of the chassis repaired due to excessive corrosion. Now it's got to the stage that it's not worth carrying out further section repairs but better to have the whole chassis removed and repaired properly! Ouch!



Looks like car'll be off the road for a few months and I'll be A LOT lighter in the pocket! Still seems sensible to get the work done as it can't be sold in its present state and with Tamora prices rising it's a good investment. Not that I see ownership as an investment as I've had the car coming up to 15 years and still smile every time I drive it.

I'm told TVR stored the chassis outdoors in the elements so water gets inside so they rot from the inside out!

I'm a bit p1ssed off so just venting really. Has anyone else had major chassis issues?

Cheers....

Andrew

Targarama

14,635 posts

282 months

Friday 14th October 2016
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Sorry to see this.

No issues with mine. Looks like yours was one of those left outside, or maybe they didn't powder coat the first T car(s) chassis properly?

olliete

403 posts

110 months

Friday 14th October 2016
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I thought the chassis on the Tamora's were generally okay given the powder coating?

BuzzBillsberry

1,306 posts

230 months

Friday 14th October 2016
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FAO issues on mine and pretty clean.....


Buzz

Spoonman

1,085 posts

260 months

Friday 14th October 2016
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Sorry to see that. You must be absolutely gutted.

No issues with mine (late '02) but I wouldn't trust any chassis on a T-car with cats still in place - well, not in that area anyway.

Targarama

14,635 posts

282 months

Friday 14th October 2016
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Spoonman said:
Sorry to see that. You must be absolutely gutted.

No issues with mine (late '02) but I wouldn't trust any chassis on a T-car with cats still in place - well, not in that area anyway.
That isn't a problem with the later cars.

BuzzBillsberry

1,306 posts

230 months

Saturday 15th October 2016
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Targarama said:
That isn't a problem with the later cars.
Agreed but the cats so close to the chassis the constant high heat cycles in excess of 400*c + this breaks down the powder coating and eventually you get micro cracks in the material, moist gets in and starts to corrode from within and it lifts the powder coating from the chassis.

My remedy to protect against this I've used 2mm aluminium sheet and got the engineering department at work to use a specialist ceramic coating we use in the power stations to reflect the heat back and put that between the cats,chassis and engine.

You can also use the foil aluminum that automotive manufacturers use to protect there own chaissis from exhaust heat and its cheap as well its fiddly fit but it'll give you better protection than nothing. It's a bit fiddly but doable.

Buzz

portzi

2,296 posts

174 months

Saturday 15th October 2016
quotequote all
BuzzBillsberry said:
Targarama said:
That isn't a problem with the later cars.
Agreed but the cats so close to the chassis the constant high heat cycles in excess of 400*c + this breaks down the powder coating and eventually you get micro cracks in the material, moist gets in and starts to corrode from within and it lifts the powder coating from the chassis.

My remedy to protect against this I've used 2mm aluminium sheet and got the engineering department at work to use a specialist ceramic coating we use in the power stations to reflect the heat back and put that between the cats,chassis and engine.

You can also use the foil aluminum that automotive manufacturers use to protect there own chaissis from exhaust heat and its cheap as well its fiddly fit but it'll give you better protection than nothing. It's a bit fiddly but doable.

Buzz
It's the same on both Chimaera's and Griffs the manifold heat being so close to the chassis top rails that run under the manifolds do lose their powder coat and will eventually rust.

This is not visible while the engine is in or the body is on!!!!!

I had engine mount spacers inserted to lift the manifolds leaving 20mm above the chassis rails.

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Edited by portzi on Saturday 15th October 12:01


Edited by portzi on Saturday 15th October 14:10

robsco

7,822 posts

175 months

Saturday 15th October 2016
quotequote all
It's well worth protecting that passenger side chassis rail when the engine inevitably comes out. I've done it on my last two TVRs, the Tuscan didn't look so bad but I caught the Cerbera just in time.

shake n bake

2,221 posts

206 months

Saturday 15th October 2016
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Just for the other side of the argument, it's 13 years old (if not dr if the tvr chassis stories are true) you've used it well and it now needs rust repairs. Find a 13 year old car that isn't hiding a rot problem or something that'll cost a bomb to fix.

Spoonman

1,085 posts

260 months

Monday 17th October 2016
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BuzzBillsberry said:
Targarama said:
That isn't a problem with the later cars.
Agreed but the cats so close to the chassis the constant high heat cycles in excess of 400*c + this breaks down the powder coating and eventually you get micro cracks in the material, moist gets in and starts to corrode from within and it lifts the powder coating from the chassis.

My remedy to protect against this I've used 2mm aluminium sheet and got the engineering department at work to use a specialist ceramic coating we use in the power stations to reflect the heat back and put that between the cats,chassis and engine.

You can also use the foil aluminum that automotive manufacturers use to protect there own chaissis from exhaust heat and its cheap as well its fiddly fit but it'll give you better protection than nothing. It's a bit fiddly but doable.

Buzz
Exactly what Buzz says. There's only so much heat the powder coating will take, and being a 'later' T-car doesn't give it any mythical ability.

Ditching the cats helps immensely.

ALT

Original Poster:

1,879 posts

281 months

Monday 17th October 2016
quotequote all
Thanks all for the replies. The car's in the process of being "patched-up" (FOC) at TVR Power and will then go back to them in the new year to have the full chassis work done. I believe the chassis will be sent to RT Racing to do the actual work.
The photo I posted was from nearside wheel arch so not sure if the problem with those sections can be put down to excessive heat.
As someone's said this issue isn't entirely surprising for a car that's approaching 15 years old. The good news is the value of Tamoras is going up an up, not that I've got any intention of selling!
Cheers....
Andrew

rev-erend

21,404 posts

283 months

Monday 17th October 2016
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You can have exhaust parts coated in camcoat - it make a real lot of difference to the amount of radiated heat.

I use it on my manifolds.

http://www.camcoat.com/

chris watton

22,477 posts

259 months

Monday 17th October 2016
quotequote all
ALT said:
Thanks all for the replies. The car's in the process of being "patched-up" (FOC) at TVR Power and will then go back to them in the new year to have the full chassis work done. I believe the chassis will be sent to RT Racing to do the actual work.
The photo I posted was from nearside wheel arch so not sure if the problem with those sections can be put down to excessive heat.
As someone's said this issue isn't entirely surprising for a car that's approaching 15 years old. The good news is the value of Tamoras is going up an up, not that I've got any intention of selling!
Cheers....
Andrew
I think you're right about the values. I bought mine in 2013 (exactly three years ago) for £16k. Now, it seems the same car (as was, without mods) would be priced at around the £20k mark.

ALT

Original Poster:

1,879 posts

281 months

Wednesday 1st February 2017
quotequote all
Car went into TVR Power on Monday and is now officially SORN! Work will take an estimated two months. Going to miss her but at least it's during a stty time of year when the weather's awful!
Let's hope the next two months don't drag by and we have great weather in April!
Cheers....
Andrew

unclemark123

878 posts

207 months

Wednesday 1st February 2017
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Plenty of pics if possible please

anonymous-user

53 months

Wednesday 1st February 2017
quotequote all
ALT said:
Car went into TVR Power on Monday and is now officially SORN! Work will take an estimated two months. Going to miss her but at least it's during a stty time of year when the weather's awful!
Let's hope the next two months don't drag by and we have great weather in April!
Cheers....
Andrew
I hope you've already thought through all the options you'll be asked to decide upon during the reassembly smile

RedSpike66

2,336 posts

211 months

Wednesday 1st February 2017
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TVRMs said:
I hope you've already thought through all the options you'll be asked to decide upon during the reassembly smile
Go on.. give us a list...

anonymous-user

53 months

Wednesday 1st February 2017
quotequote all
RedSpike66 said:
TVRMs said:
I hope you've already thought through all the options you'll be asked to decide upon during the reassembly smile
Go on.. give us a list...
In no particular order..

What would you like the chassis treated with..
Would you like the individual chassis rails drilled tapped and sprayed inside with waxoyl.

Would you like..
Non load bearing bolting changed for stainless.
Your exhaust and cats coated.
Uprated front and rear brakes (bigger discs)
New uprated shocks and springs
Suspension bush material change
Brake and fuel lines in hose rather than CUNI pipe /rubber
Fuel tank baffle / larger swirl pot

?


Kitchski

6,514 posts

230 months

Wednesday 1st February 2017
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TVRMs said:
In no particular order..
I restore TVR chassis' for a living, so I can give you my answers if it helps at all?:

TVRMs said:
What would you like the chassis treated with..
I'd go either thermal zinc spray (like galvanising) and suitable 2k top coat, or go for something like POR15 with all the prior metal prep stuff, and a suitable top coat.
TVRMs said:
Would you like the individual chassis rails drilled tapped and sprayed inside with waxoyl.
I wouldn't bother, invites more problems than it solves. They don't rust from the inside out as much people would have you believe, it's only normally if a hole has surfaced and allowed moisture inside in the first place that you have a problem. In your pic up the top there, that's rusted externally. Cerberas are terrible for going up there, especially on the V8.

TVRMs said:
Would you like....
Non load bearing bolting changed for stainless.
I offer this, and I did it on my own car, but if you think about it, it's really only isolated to body mounting bolts and and clamps for the fuel pump - that kind of thing. So you use stainless bolts and they don't rust. Great. That'll make it easier each time you remove the body, even though in the event you do that you'd renew all the fixings anyway. Makes no sense to use stainless, except for vanity. Probably why I did it hehe
TVRMs said:
Your exhaust and cats coated.
Worth doing, but pricey.
TVRMs said:
Uprated front and rear brakes (bigger discs)
Your call.
TVRMs said:
New uprated shocks and springs
Your call.
TVRMs said:
Suspension bush material change
I would. I use Powerflex on TVR chassis'. Any other poly bush is inferior (speaking from experience)
TVRMs said:
Brake and fuel lines in hose rather than CUNI pipe /rubber
Kunifer and decent rubber hose is fine. Check out the posts I've done in the Griffith/Chimaera/S forums for the fun and games we've had on fuel hoses cracking due to ethanol contamination, though. I'm using Gates Barricade now.
TVRMs said:
Fuel tank baffle / larger swirl pot
Your call - a Speed Six guru would be able to advise you better.