Discussion
alloypearltam said:
What an excellent thread.
Has anyone any experience of the Fuel Sensor error. I had that appear yesterday. I am fairly certain I have read about that issue frequently on here.
I have been and refulled to check that the readings were correct (which they were) so I am guessing it was a blip.
Yes, I think most of us have had that - especially when the tank gets to about 1/4 full. Its due to the fuel sloshing around in the tank. The more annoying feature of the sensor though is that it doesnt give accurate readings when the tank is low either. The most I have ever been able to fill the tank up by is 45ltrs - and that was when the gauge showed 2 litres left..! :O)
Sensor roundup
Seems like a lot of us have experienced sensor issues so I poked about a bit and summarise the current situation below.Please correct if you have any new news.
Oil Pressure.
Leaking sender unit not uncommon often after a first or second service. Current sender design known to fail fairly frequently. This was believed to be a bad batch but the factory are looking at a different sender design so it might be worth talking to your dealer. Take all low pressure readings seriously-i.e. stop car and call dealer for pick-up but it will probably be the sensor. Cars with warrantys obviously should not be driven with a failed sender even if engine seems fine.
Water Temp
Although oil temperature is the critical one water temperature needs to be accurate.
Assuming you keep your water levels topped up you shouldn't experience a problem but in my experience water temperature readings are very sensitive to water levels. Although this appears to be less common than the oil sender problem some of us have experienced a sensor failure.
Speed readout.
Some have experienced differences between analogue and digital readouts. Digital believed to be more accurate but wide variation and erratic readings probably due to a sensor in the process of failing.
>> edited cos can't spell for toffee
>> Edited by sideways mostly on Tuesday 18th October 08:38
Seems like a lot of us have experienced sensor issues so I poked about a bit and summarise the current situation below.Please correct if you have any new news.
Oil Pressure.
Leaking sender unit not uncommon often after a first or second service. Current sender design known to fail fairly frequently. This was believed to be a bad batch but the factory are looking at a different sender design so it might be worth talking to your dealer. Take all low pressure readings seriously-i.e. stop car and call dealer for pick-up but it will probably be the sensor. Cars with warrantys obviously should not be driven with a failed sender even if engine seems fine.
Water Temp
Although oil temperature is the critical one water temperature needs to be accurate.
Assuming you keep your water levels topped up you shouldn't experience a problem but in my experience water temperature readings are very sensitive to water levels. Although this appears to be less common than the oil sender problem some of us have experienced a sensor failure.
Speed readout.
Some have experienced differences between analogue and digital readouts. Digital believed to be more accurate but wide variation and erratic readings probably due to a sensor in the process of failing.
>> edited cos can't spell for toffee
>> Edited by sideways mostly on Tuesday 18th October 08:38
Note on fuel pump relay:-
There is a connector on top of the fuel tank which powers the fuel pumps. It can be affected by vibration, and can burn out the contacts on occasion, leading to loss of fuelling to the engine (which has just happened to me!)
So check it, and tape up the connector block with some strong duct tape or similar - it's the white connector block attached to the top access plate on the fuel tank.
There is a connector on top of the fuel tank which powers the fuel pumps. It can be affected by vibration, and can burn out the contacts on occasion, leading to loss of fuelling to the engine (which has just happened to me!)
So check it, and tape up the connector block with some strong duct tape or similar - it's the white connector block attached to the top access plate on the fuel tank.
All,
I've seen a few T350's around with stick on front plates - so thought must get a set of those as they look much better.
I was told about :
www.fancyplates.com/
They let you design the plate online and delivery pretty quick (I ordered Thursday and received Tuesday)..
Let do legal and show plates..
I've seen a few T350's around with stick on front plates - so thought must get a set of those as they look much better.
I was told about :
www.fancyplates.com/
They let you design the plate online and delivery pretty quick (I ordered Thursday and received Tuesday)..
Let do legal and show plates..
Alternator to Starter motor fuse.
You would imagine all the fuses are in the fuse box.This is not the case.
There is a failsafe fuse between the Alternator and the starter motor which is under the air box.
Its an easy if slightly involved fix.
Remove the air box by undoing the two allen head bolts then unclip all the toggles.There are two clearly visible and one 'hidden' at the inlet side of the box between the third and forth inlet port.Its a bit fiddly to get to but you can release it using a large screwdriver. Pop the top of the box off the inlet ports then wriggle the top of the airbox forward.Once this is free you can then lift out the filter and then remove the bottom half of the airbox.
The fuse is in a black box on the red cable between the starter motor and the alternator
The fuse is 80 amps but its safe to replace with 100 amps if thats what you have to get you going.
We had to rig a flat blade 100 amp using spade connectors and some thick cable which needs to be well insulated with tape.This works untill you can get to your dealer
Test the fix before you replace the airbox
>> It'll take about twenty minutes if you have everything to hand
>> Edited by sideways mostly on Tuesday 24th January 19:37
You would imagine all the fuses are in the fuse box.This is not the case.
There is a failsafe fuse between the Alternator and the starter motor which is under the air box.
Its an easy if slightly involved fix.
Remove the air box by undoing the two allen head bolts then unclip all the toggles.There are two clearly visible and one 'hidden' at the inlet side of the box between the third and forth inlet port.Its a bit fiddly to get to but you can release it using a large screwdriver. Pop the top of the box off the inlet ports then wriggle the top of the airbox forward.Once this is free you can then lift out the filter and then remove the bottom half of the airbox.
The fuse is in a black box on the red cable between the starter motor and the alternator
The fuse is 80 amps but its safe to replace with 100 amps if thats what you have to get you going.
We had to rig a flat blade 100 amp using spade connectors and some thick cable which needs to be well insulated with tape.This works untill you can get to your dealer
Test the fix before you replace the airbox
>> It'll take about twenty minutes if you have everything to hand
>> Edited by sideways mostly on Tuesday 24th January 19:37
Edited by sideways mostly on Saturday 14th October 21:00
Changing the front indicator bulb on a T350c/t:
It yours has stopped working and you think it will talk 5 mins - think again.
It can be seen with the bonnet up but access is too restricted.
You need to allow about 1 hour for this and this is how to do it :
1) remove front wheel (loosen nuts before jacking)
2) remove top access panel in front of the wheel - this is secured by 8 stainless screws - 3 top, 3 bottom and 2 in the middle.. you will need to remove the black mastic to find them but you will find them at the corners and middle of the panel.
3) prise out middle access panel
You now can see the indicator unit
4) remove rubber boot from indicator and pull off wires - put on ignition and indicator and check voltage - I had about 8 volts .. but anything over zero indicates that you don't have a cabeling problem.
5) Remove indicator bulb unit - this is not easy as access is tight
essentially it's in two parts i) front part glued to plastic light unit and ii) rear part attached to front part by a slotted grove bayonet. Remove the rear part from front - if possible
6) It highly likely you will drop this or find it easier to remove from the middle access panel - now remove the bulb. I user a continueity tester to chech the bulb is blown (no continueity)
7) Replace bulb - with an 'ORANGE' indicator bulb.. I was miffed as I had a white one .. but luckily my neighbour had a spare orange one
Put it all back together and check it works..
8) don't forget to re-seal access panels with Silkolene mastic
.. oops almost forgot - put the wheel back on.. don't want to see anyone driving around in a T350 like Kimi Reikonen drives his Maclaren
It yours has stopped working and you think it will talk 5 mins - think again.
It can be seen with the bonnet up but access is too restricted.
You need to allow about 1 hour for this and this is how to do it :
1) remove front wheel (loosen nuts before jacking)
2) remove top access panel in front of the wheel - this is secured by 8 stainless screws - 3 top, 3 bottom and 2 in the middle.. you will need to remove the black mastic to find them but you will find them at the corners and middle of the panel.
3) prise out middle access panel
You now can see the indicator unit
4) remove rubber boot from indicator and pull off wires - put on ignition and indicator and check voltage - I had about 8 volts .. but anything over zero indicates that you don't have a cabeling problem.
5) Remove indicator bulb unit - this is not easy as access is tight
essentially it's in two parts i) front part glued to plastic light unit and ii) rear part attached to front part by a slotted grove bayonet. Remove the rear part from front - if possible
6) It highly likely you will drop this or find it easier to remove from the middle access panel - now remove the bulb. I user a continueity tester to chech the bulb is blown (no continueity)
7) Replace bulb - with an 'ORANGE' indicator bulb.. I was miffed as I had a white one .. but luckily my neighbour had a spare orange one
Put it all back together and check it works..
8) don't forget to re-seal access panels with Silkolene mastic
.. oops almost forgot - put the wheel back on.. don't want to see anyone driving around in a T350 like Kimi Reikonen drives his Maclaren
one fix for no power steering (PAS): (I'm assuming that there is no power at the PAS pump here)
remove passenger wheel
remove battery cover panel
look for a red cable with a black plastic connector in the middle
remove tape and prise open cover
there is an 80 amp flat fuse in there (at this time I don't know where to get a replacement)
check that fuse is intact with continuity checker if dead replace
easy way to check if its working is start it up and as you turn to full lock it should make a noise.
if working turn off
replace cover and retape the connector back up
put battery cover panel back
put wheel back on
test it.
remove passenger wheel
remove battery cover panel
look for a red cable with a black plastic connector in the middle
remove tape and prise open cover
there is an 80 amp flat fuse in there (at this time I don't know where to get a replacement)
check that fuse is intact with continuity checker if dead replace
easy way to check if its working is start it up and as you turn to full lock it should make a noise.
if working turn off
replace cover and retape the connector back up
put battery cover panel back
put wheel back on
test it.
To remove dash pod:-
Look under the dash cowl from inside the footwell and there are two bolts securing it - remove these with an Allen key. The dash cowl then lifts off with the dash pod attached at the back by six more Allen bolts. Unplug the ribbon cables from the heater and light switches, and lift the pod over the steering wheel to make access easier. Undo the Allen bolts, remove the two large ribbon cables which run from the ECU, and the pod comes off completely.
Then having realised user servicing it is NOT feasible, ring www.bellhillgarage.co.uk and order a second hand dash pod for £150, fit it, and enjoy!
Look under the dash cowl from inside the footwell and there are two bolts securing it - remove these with an Allen key. The dash cowl then lifts off with the dash pod attached at the back by six more Allen bolts. Unplug the ribbon cables from the heater and light switches, and lift the pod over the steering wheel to make access easier. Undo the Allen bolts, remove the two large ribbon cables which run from the ECU, and the pod comes off completely.
Then having realised user servicing it is NOT feasible, ring www.bellhillgarage.co.uk and order a second hand dash pod for £150, fit it, and enjoy!
Edited by nubbin on Friday 8th September 10:54
Found & banished a little noise from rear - after 2 years' looking!
It was only on low-speed ridges or sharp bumps, a small hollow knock noise.
In case anyone else has it... there's a little storage box under carpet at rear offside - often used for 'spare tyre' can. It's only wedged in by the pull-out rear panel leading to the rear lights, and on mine moves up and down fractionally, touching the inner bodywork when it lands. Took some finding I can tell you.
Cure is a few inches of furry velcro on bottom front & rear outside corners. Quiet as a mouse now (when engine's asleep...)
It was only on low-speed ridges or sharp bumps, a small hollow knock noise.
In case anyone else has it... there's a little storage box under carpet at rear offside - often used for 'spare tyre' can. It's only wedged in by the pull-out rear panel leading to the rear lights, and on mine moves up and down fractionally, touching the inner bodywork when it lands. Took some finding I can tell you.
Cure is a few inches of furry velcro on bottom front & rear outside corners. Quiet as a mouse now (when engine's asleep...)
As Mr Godfrey pointed out about the power steering but before you take your n/s front wheel off and the battery cover. Over ride the relay (thats at the front next to the oil
filler near side) if the system works then its either the relay (which is from a pug) or the 10amp fuse on the fuse board under the steering wheel No35 shown as the ignition management. This fuse controls the power steering relay. Happened to me took ages to find the problem.
Hope this helps somebody some day.
Mark
filler near side) if the system works then its either the relay (which is from a pug) or the 10amp fuse on the fuse board under the steering wheel No35 shown as the ignition management. This fuse controls the power steering relay. Happened to me took ages to find the problem.
Hope this helps somebody some day.
Mark
See the following link for Engine diagnostic software, servicing topics, wiring diagrams (Cerbera diagrams, but should give a good indication of what to expect I suppose), etc...
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dave.hin
Thanks Mr Hinns
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dave.hin
Thanks Mr Hinns
Edited by ZooOOM on Wednesday 28th March 00:54
This is a great Thread to read. Cheers guys
I am in the process of looking to buy a TVR and have been
put off slightly by the unreliability of Tuscan Engine (2001)so poss looking at T350c.
For the same money i can get a T350c on an 03 plate with 11k ish.
Do these have the same problem with engine rebuild at about 20k or because they are newer do they go a bit further?
Cheers
J.
I am in the process of looking to buy a TVR and have been
put off slightly by the unreliability of Tuscan Engine (2001)so poss looking at T350c.
For the same money i can get a T350c on an 03 plate with 11k ish.
Do these have the same problem with engine rebuild at about 20k or because they are newer do they go a bit further?
Cheers
J.
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