Tamora heater blower
Discussion
I've searched the forums but didn't find any posts which dealt with the same symptoms.
In short, the heater blower on the Tamora seems to have stopped working - it's a 2005 with AC.
With the AirCon off, none of the blower LEDs light up.
With the AirCon on, the blower LEDs scroll up as normal, but there's still no fan activity.
There are several posts on here with problematic heater amplifier modules but, in all those cases, the blower LEDs remained active.
I plan to inspect the amplifier as a matter of course, but wondered if anyone has thoughts / experience on why the state of the blower LEDs would be affected by the position of the AC switch ?
In short, the heater blower on the Tamora seems to have stopped working - it's a 2005 with AC.
With the AirCon off, none of the blower LEDs light up.
With the AirCon on, the blower LEDs scroll up as normal, but there's still no fan activity.
There are several posts on here with problematic heater amplifier modules but, in all those cases, the blower LEDs remained active.
I plan to inspect the amplifier as a matter of course, but wondered if anyone has thoughts / experience on why the state of the blower LEDs would be affected by the position of the AC switch ?
I am not quite sure, but I mean that if the heater amplifier does not switch, that then also the lamps do not turn on.
The weak points of the amplifier are the connectors and the electrolytic capacitors (ELKO). The ones in the controller have an average lifetime of 1000 to 3000 operating hours. Even the storage causes a constant loss of capacity. After about 10 years of storage, an electrolytic capacitor can therefore no longer be used because the liquid electrolyte inside the electrolytic capacitor dries out (evaporates) over time. If electrolytic capacitors are operated at a higher temperature, this additionally shortens the service life.
If the connector is OK, you should change the electrolytic capacitors. The matching electrolytic capacitors with 63 V 1000µF cost a few euros/pound each.
I soldered out the old electrolytic capacitors and soldered in the new ones. The positive and negative pole are indicated on the board. The minus pole on the electrolytic capacitors is marked with a light stripe.
The weak points of the amplifier are the connectors and the electrolytic capacitors (ELKO). The ones in the controller have an average lifetime of 1000 to 3000 operating hours. Even the storage causes a constant loss of capacity. After about 10 years of storage, an electrolytic capacitor can therefore no longer be used because the liquid electrolyte inside the electrolytic capacitor dries out (evaporates) over time. If electrolytic capacitors are operated at a higher temperature, this additionally shortens the service life.
If the connector is OK, you should change the electrolytic capacitors. The matching electrolytic capacitors with 63 V 1000µF cost a few euros/pound each.
I soldered out the old electrolytic capacitors and soldered in the new ones. The positive and negative pole are indicated on the board. The minus pole on the electrolytic capacitors is marked with a light stripe.
Apologies if this is a silly question, but the fan is on? Pressing the fan speed control toggles it on or off. I'm sure you know this. 
I owned my T350 for a year before I realised this! The fan speed "amplifier" is a separate circuit to the one that controls the indicator LEDs, so I don't think this is an "amplifier" problem.
I owned my T350 for a year before I realised this! The fan speed "amplifier" is a separate circuit to the one that controls the indicator LEDs, so I don't think this is an "amplifier" problem. Edited by non_linear on Monday 16th October 22:20
non_linear said:
The fan speed "amplifier" is a separate circuit to the one that controls the indicator LEDs, so I don't think this is an "amplifier" problem.
That was my thinking, too.Regardless, I checked & remade the connections to the amplifier (all seemed OK), but it seems the blower rotary switch itself might be at fault - after some forceful back and forth, the blower (and LEDs) kicked back into life. Happy days.
Still unsure why the blower didn't work but the fan level LEDs lit up when the AC was set to on, but that's one for another day.
Cheers for the suggestions, chaps
SS2. said:
I've searched the forums but didn't find any posts which dealt with the same symptoms.
In short, the heater blower on the Tamora seems to have stopped working - it's a 2005 with AC.
With the AirCon off, none of the blower LEDs light up.
With the AirCon on, the blower LEDs scroll up as normal, but there's still no fan activity.
There are several posts on here with problematic heater amplifier modules but, in all those cases, the blower LEDs remained active.
I plan to inspect the amplifier as a matter of course, but wondered if anyone has thoughts / experience on why the state of the blower LEDs would be affected by the position of the AC switch ?
If you locate the fan speed controller in the passenger footwell you will probably find one of the pins on the plug has burnt out, there is a high amp draw when the fan first starts and it melts the plug. Best fix is to solder a new plug to the controller and put a new plug on the wiring harness that will cope with the current. Also make sure the fan speed is on its lowest before turning the car off each time.In short, the heater blower on the Tamora seems to have stopped working - it's a 2005 with AC.
With the AirCon off, none of the blower LEDs light up.
With the AirCon on, the blower LEDs scroll up as normal, but there's still no fan activity.
There are several posts on here with problematic heater amplifier modules but, in all those cases, the blower LEDs remained active.
I plan to inspect the amplifier as a matter of course, but wondered if anyone has thoughts / experience on why the state of the blower LEDs would be affected by the position of the AC switch ?
The LED’s still work because it’s the pin that feeds the pulse width signal to the motor that has burnt out
Hope this helps
T350Craig said:
If you locate the fan speed controller in the passenger footwell you will probably find one of the pins on the plug has burnt out, there is a high amp draw when the fan first starts and it melts the plug. Best fix is to solder a new plug to the controller and put a new plug on the wiring harness that will cope with the current. Also make sure the fan speed is on its lowest before turning the car off each time.
The LED’s still work because it’s the pin that feeds the pulse width signal to the motor that has burnt out
Hope this helps
Cheers Craig.The LED’s still work because it’s the pin that feeds the pulse width signal to the motor that has burnt out
Hope this helps
Per my last post, it seems to be the fan switch itself - some forceful wiggling did get the LEDs on and the fan blowing.
What I still don't understand is why, with the AC switched on, the LEDs on the fan speed control switch light up, irrespective whether the fans are running or not.
Still, I can now demist the windows so all is good !
Granturadriver said:
I am not quite sure, but I mean that if the heater amplifier does not switch, that then also the lamps do not turn on.
The weak points of the amplifier are the connectors and the electrolytic capacitors (ELKO). The ones in the controller have an average lifetime of 1000 to 3000 operating hours. Even the storage causes a constant loss of capacity. After about 10 years of storage, an electrolytic capacitor can therefore no longer be used because the liquid electrolyte inside the electrolytic capacitor dries out (evaporates) over time. If electrolytic capacitors are operated at a higher temperature, this additionally shortens the service life.
If the connector is OK, you should change the electrolytic capacitors. The matching electrolytic capacitors with 63 V 1000µF cost a few euros/pound each.
I soldered out the old electrolytic capacitors and soldered in the new ones. The positive and negative pole are indicated on the board. The minus pole on the electrolytic capacitors is marked with a light stripe.
Would this effect control of the actual blower speed? Mine slows 20% ahter on for.a long period.The weak points of the amplifier are the connectors and the electrolytic capacitors (ELKO). The ones in the controller have an average lifetime of 1000 to 3000 operating hours. Even the storage causes a constant loss of capacity. After about 10 years of storage, an electrolytic capacitor can therefore no longer be used because the liquid electrolyte inside the electrolytic capacitor dries out (evaporates) over time. If electrolytic capacitors are operated at a higher temperature, this additionally shortens the service life.
If the connector is OK, you should change the electrolytic capacitors. The matching electrolytic capacitors with 63 V 1000µF cost a few euros/pound each.
I soldered out the old electrolytic capacitors and soldered in the new ones. The positive and negative pole are indicated on the board. The minus pole on the electrolytic capacitors is marked with a light stripe.
SS2. said:
Per my last post, it seems to be the fan switch itself - some forceful wiggling did get the LEDs on and the fan blowing.
What I still don't understand is why, with the AC switched on, the LEDs on the fan speed control switch light up, irrespective whether the fans are running or not.
Sounds like a wiring issue between the panel with the LEDs and switch, and the dash controller. There is a ribbon cable which plugs into the back of the switch panel. What I still don't understand is why, with the AC switched on, the LEDs on the fan speed control switch light up, irrespective whether the fans are running or not.
I'd be checking that cable, and the PCB itself.
Edited by non_linear on Monday 30th October 13:29
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