Tamora Speed Six Engine Oil?

[PYNEY]

hi all

my tam from new has had 5w 40 grade engine oil on all its services
its seems to be the preferred grade ?

i'm thinking of using a new indy to service my car this year and i know he recommends 10w 40 on his customers cars (speed six)

what i would like to know is what are the pro's and con's between the two oils

and any personal views and advice you can give me

cheers keith

[Don1]

Difference is 5. (Sorry...)

It's down to viscosity - the higher the number in value at the beginning, the slower the oil moves. Therefore I'd go with the lower number in an S6, due to the dry sump...

(Edited becawse I caaant spel.)

Edited by Don1 on Monday 9th February 14:18

[Tangoed]

10w/40w is better, the 5w/40w fully synthetic is not as good. The fully synthetic 5w like Mobil, does not give the engine enough protection. Semi synthetic 10/40w is the best oil for the speed six.

[PYNEY]

tangoed thats interesting ! thanks

its what my indy also said , i've also found a thread on hear which said that tvr power use this oil grade (10w 40)they should know ? can anyone confirm this ?

its just that the majority say 5w 40 is best and most tvr garages seem to go down that route i think

is there any hands on proof that changing to 10w 40 in the long term will be better

cheers keith

[puckrup]

Have always used Mobil1 15W50 Motorsport in Sagaris as recommended by Hexham Horseless Carriages. You will get 10 different answers on this topic though!!

[thainy77]

I answered this question a few months ago, i use 10w/40 but a few people recommended 15w/40.

[TVR_owner]

puckrup said:

Have always used Mobil1 15W50 Motorsport in Sagaris as recommended by Hexham Horseless Carriages. You will get 10 different answers on this topic though!!

[trackcar]

Can anybody explain why you would deliberately want to run an oil which is thicker at cold temperatures on an engine which is already marginal on it's lubrication from cold start-up anyway?

[PYNEY]

trackcar, this is also my concerns going to a thicker oil from cold ?
but is the 10w or 15w much better when the engine is hot ?

cheers keith

[stimshady]

i'm sure the actual TVR user manual says 5/40 i will check later...

[TVR_owner]

trackcar said:

Can anybody explain why you would deliberately want to run an oil which is thicker at cold temperatures on an engine which is already marginal on it's lubrication from cold start-up anyway?

I'm sure that the are very few folk who understand all the issues relating to oil and this particular engine (at both hot and cold operating temperatures) all though many on here would have us think otherwise - for me knowledge needs to relate to both and not one aspect of the topic.

Of those that know, I'm sure even very few of them post on here.

I use it because someone I trust advises me it's what the engine is best suited too. So far a fault free 5 years with S6s suggest they maybe right. I don't know enough to explain and won't pretend.

The other thing is that I wouldn't use engine oil based purely on an internet forum suggestion.

Edited by TVR_owner on Wednesday 11th February 09:35

[Oat$y]

New engines/low miles should be high viscosity (5w) medium milage (10w) oil. high milages should be lower viscosity (15w/20w) garages don't like stocking different oils as this increases cost so most dealers will stock an "average" viscosity (10/15w) to save on costs.

The reason for high viscosity for new engines is due to the tightness at first and to "wash" the engine parts, and due to the limit on revs for the first few miles. The looser the engine the less viscos it needs to be.

As long as the oil is changed regulary you wont have any problems whatever type is put in. If engine oil temp is excessively high in normal operation it needs to be changed quickly.

Edited by Oat$y on Wednesday 11th February 09:37

[stimshady]

Oatsy said:

...If engine oil temp is excessively high in normal operation it needs to be changed quickly.

Oat$y, what would you class as excessively high on a S6 engine? Oil temp of 85 seems to be about the highest mine gets even when stuck in traffic.

[TVR_owner]

stimshady said:

Oatsy said:

...If engine oil temp is excessively high in normal operation it needs to be changed quickly.

Oat$y, what would you class as excessively high on a S6 engine? Oil temp of 85 seems to be about the highest mine gets even when stuck in traffic.

Its a case of more advice that's misleading - but well meaning.

Good synthetic oils will stand temperatures of 120+ and not degrade such that they require immediate changing. Oil running through turbos see some high temps without problems..

[trackcar]

TVR_owner said:

trackcar said:

Can anybody explain why you would deliberately want to run an oil which is thicker at cold temperatures on an engine which is already marginal on it's lubrication from cold start-up anyway?

I'm sure that the are very few folk who understand all the issues relating to oil and this particular engine (at both hot and cold operating temperatures) all though many on here would have us think otherwise - for me knowledge needs to relate to both and not one aspect of the topic.

Of those that know, I'm sure even very few of them post on here.

I use it because someone I trust advises me it's what the engine is best suited too. So far a fault free 5 years with S6s suggest they maybe right. I don't know enough to explain and won't pretend.

The other thing is that I wouldn't use engine oil based purely on an internet forum suggestion.

Edited by TVR_owner on Wednesday 11th February 09:35

Advice from a well respected engine builder is always best I would think, coupled to an oil expert maybe. Fact is if one particular oil seems to show better engine longevity then that's got to be better. It's just i was reminded of some tests that raceproved did timing how long it took for oil to reach the followers from a cold start and it was something like 10 seconds! I would have thought anything that lengthens that dry-time would be bad, but its only a hunch and as you say its better to take advice from a proper expert, sadly they're so few and far between ..

[TVR_owner]

trackcar said:

TVR_owner said:

trackcar said:

Can anybody explain why you would deliberately want to run an oil which is thicker at cold temperatures on an engine which is already marginal on it's lubrication from cold start-up anyway?

I'm sure that the are very few folk who understand all the issues relating to oil and this particular engine (at both hot and cold operating temperatures) all though many on here would have us think otherwise - for me knowledge needs to relate to both and not one aspect of the topic.

Of those that know, I'm sure even very few of them post on here.

I use it because someone I trust advises me it's what the engine is best suited too. So far a fault free 5 years with S6s suggest they maybe right. I don't know enough to explain and won't pretend.

The other thing is that I wouldn't use engine oil based purely on an internet forum suggestion.

Edited by TVR_owner on Wednesday 11th February 09:35

Advice from a well respected engine builder is always best I would think, coupled to an oil expert maybe. Fact is if one particular oil seems to show better engine longevity then that's got to be better. It's just i was reminded of some tests that raceproved did timing how long it took for oil to reach the followers from a cold start and it was something like 10 seconds! I would have thought anything that lengthens that dry-time would be bad, but its only a hunch and as you say its better to take advice from a proper expert, sadly they're so few and far between ..

Joolz,
I agree with the engine builder/oil man thing - noice if its the same person.

One thing to consider and seems to be ignored by the tests that racproved did, and I cant say I'm surprised, is surface tension and the ability of a thin oil to flow. A thin oil will exit the top of the engine quicker and will not hold to the wetted parts.

[trackcar]

What's important for long life we're always told is to build a hydrodynamic wedge between the moving parts .. sadly with cams rotating at half engine speed, and very high point loads on the followers from the cam lobes, coupled to the fact that on one cam the oil spray is on the wrong side of the rotating lobe all conspire against that happening.
As I see it you can approach that in 2 ways : flood the top end with oil from the correct side of the lobe (seems to work well in raceproved's case) or have an oil which gets to the top end quickly, but doesn't get very thin when it's hot either .. in theory when the oil is thick it should offer more protection to cam systems because it's viscosity means it isn't wiped sideways off the sliding faces as readily? just a hunch again of course and probably much more to it than that hence the question mark questioning my own reasoning.
I use 5w/50 valvoline vr1 oils because in my mind an oil which is towards the thin end of viscosity when cold, and towards the thicker end when hot would appear to do a good job on a lubrication-limited engine (yes i know they're to two different test criteria and when hot is still actually much thinner than when cold) , and apart from some dubious engine rebuilds Ive never had a sp6 engine failure. That may just be pure good luck or there may be something in it I don't really know

How's the M anyway? you all set for racing now?

[Oat$y]

stimshady said:

Oatsy said:

...If engine oil temp is excessively high in normal operation it needs to be changed quickly.

Oat$y, what would you class as excessively high on a S6 engine? Oil temp of 85 seems to be about the highest mine gets even when stuck in traffic.

If your oil is in the mid 90's when it is normally 85 then the oil has degraded enough to change.

As stated by someone synthetic oils can reach high temperatures but what I'm trying to show is if the increase in temp in "Normal" conditions has increased then this is a sign that the oil has degraded and time to change.

[TVR_owner]

trackcar said:

How's the M anyway? you all set for racing now?

Should be ready for Cadwell but with very limited pre-season testing (work......)

It's currently in many small and some large parts. Engine should be back next week with block decked and wills rings installed, all straight valves and unbroken and stronger valve springs (Head gasket had gone in 3 places 3 bent valves and a few broken springs).

Engine builder asked if the car finished it's last race under its own steam - he seemed suprised it finished with a class win!!

New redesigned water tanks still to arrive, some other home made tweeks (charge air cooling) then need to get the complete car to Colin Blower for set-up and corner weighting (something it's not had before).

Car runs on 10/60 Castrol Edge

[kcc]

Hi John,
My Tamora hand book say's Carlube Triple R 0W-40 Fully Synthetic, but the garage use Mobil 1 27K now and still going well, so if thats what they use it's good enough for me,it gets changed every 3000 mls as recomended by a TVR man of many years experience, and who now is a famous racing driver!!!, BTW does that mean the M was'nt running at full chat last year!!!, hope to see you at Cadwell.
Ken.

TVR_owner said:

trackcar said:

How's the M anyway? you all set for racing now?

Should be ready for Cadwell but with very limited pre-season testing (work......)

It's currently in many small and some large parts. Engine should be back next week with block decked and wills rings installed, all straight valves and unbroken and stronger valve springs (Head gasket had gone in 3 places 3 bent valves and a few broken springs).

Engine builder asked if the car finished it's last race under its own steam - he seemed suprised it finished with a class win!!

New redesigned water tanks still to arrive, some other home made tweeks (charge air cooling) then need to get the complete car to Colin Blower for set-up and corner weighting (something it's not had before).

Car runs on 10/60 Castrol Edge