Error code 245 - Power Supply & POD Not shutting down

Error code 245 - Power Supply & POD Not shutting down

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darkmark07

Original Poster:

702 posts

197 months

Friday 24th December 2010
quotequote all
Hi all.

Got some electrical wierdness occuring.

Firstly, even on an Accumate the car won't hold enough charge to even turn over if left for > 5 days. This is with a brand new battery.

I've checked the accumate and it is working perfectly if connected to a battery on the bench so clearly there is some current drain going on somewhere.

I've noticed that the POD won't shut down, even with the key out of the ignition. Arming the alarm will kill it for about 30 seconds but it will come back to life, complaining about the temperature, the heater flap and then finally 245 - Power Supply fault.

I've done some reading up and seemingly it could be a 100A fuse, loose earth or door ECU problem (from Tuscan forum).

I know that there have been other people with similar issues but there don't seem to be any fixes posted - does anyone have any other suggestions for fault-finding?

Anyways, not going to be doing anything over the next couple of days so wishing you all a very merry Christmas and let's hope that this snow clears and we get some of those lovely clear winter days very soon.

Cheers,

Makr

shep1001

4,599 posts

188 months

Friday 24th December 2010
quotequote all
darkmark07 said:
Hi all.

Got some electrical wierdness occuring.

Firstly, even on an Accumate the car won't hold enough charge to even turn over if left for > 5 days. This is with a brand new battery.

I've checked the accumate and it is working perfectly if connected to a battery on the bench so clearly there is some current drain going on somewhere.

I've noticed that the POD won't shut down, even with the key out of the ignition. Arming the alarm will kill it for about 30 seconds but it will come back to life, complaining about the temperature, the heater flap and then finally 245 - Power Supply fault.

I've done some reading up and seemingly it could be a 100A fuse, loose earth or door ECU problem (from Tuscan forum).

I know that there have been other people with similar issues but there don't seem to be any fixes posted - does anyone have any other suggestions for fault-finding?

Anyways, not going to be doing anything over the next couple of days so wishing you all a very merry Christmas and let's hope that this snow clears and we get some of those lovely clear winter days very soon.

Cheers,

Makr
Ignition relay stuck/sticking. Ask santa for a new one


Shep

darkmark07

Original Poster:

702 posts

197 months

Friday 24th December 2010
quotequote all
Thanks Shep - I'll check it out. I take it that it something I can get from a regular motor factors (assuming that Santa can't find one in his sack)?

shep1001

4,599 posts

188 months

Friday 24th December 2010
quotequote all
darkmark07 said:
Thanks Shep - I'll check it out. I take it that it something I can get from a regular motor factors (assuming that Santa can't find one in his sack)?
I assume so. I am away for a few days so can't look it up in the bible or in the handbook (there is a relay diagram where the fuse box layout is) to tell you which one it is. I think its the brown relay but its a while since I had the problem.

Its easy to work out which it is through trial and error as the dash goes off when you get the right relay!

darkmark07

Original Poster:

702 posts

197 months

Friday 24th December 2010
quotequote all
Cheers Shep - just been out and had a fiddle. I figured that it was the small blue/black relay so pulled it and no change unfortunately.

Pulled all of the others in sequence for good measure but none made any difference.

Just to check that I had the correct one, I turned the key to the II position and disabled the immobiliser so the fuel pump primed. I then pulled and re-inserted R33 and the pump re-primed. Also on pulling the relay the POD flashed up 'shutting down' for about half a second before starting up again with the relay out so I'm pretty sure that is not the issue...

Very odd.

Edited for spelling...

Edited by darkmark07 on Friday 24th December 20:20

LeeT350c

575 posts

180 months

Saturday 25th December 2010
quotequote all
Mark

Might sound an odd request but put your hand under the airbox from the front and feel the alternator. Is it warm / hot? Reach in like you were going for the clip and the alternator is under that.

Cheers. Lee.

darkmark07

Original Poster:

702 posts

197 months

Saturday 25th December 2010
quotequote all
Hi Lee - I'm willing to do more-or-less anything at the moment, or would be if I was anywhere near the car. Will try as you suggest after xmas - if it is warm, what does it suggest?

Cheers,

Mark

FactoryPilot

1,352 posts

215 months

Saturday 25th December 2010
quotequote all
Definitely sounds like a relay sticking mate.

Had a similar thing myself recently, and found to be the PAS relay.... a £2 Peugeot Part of all things smile

darkmark07

Original Poster:

702 posts

197 months

Sunday 26th December 2010
quotequote all
Hi guys

Thanks for the info - I have tried all of the relays and none seem to have the desired effect, but I'll try them again when I get home just to make sure.

Also, I know that an Accumate will not charge a dead flat battery. The battery in question was all but brand new: I literally drove the car into the garage (after a 40 minute run) and plugged the car in to the Accumate.

I'm sure the Accumate is OK and I'm sure that there is something in the car that is drawing quite a lot of current when the ignition is switched off - certainly the dash pod being on when the car is off is the first thing that needs investigation.

Cheers for all the responses so far - I'll have a proper look over the next few days. Any further suggestions are welcome!

Cheers,

Mark

shep1001

4,599 posts

188 months

Sunday 26th December 2010
quotequote all
FactoryPilot said:
Definitely sounds like a relay sticking mate.

Had a similar thing myself recently, and found to be the PAS relay.... a £2 Peugeot Part of all things smile
£2! have you seen how much Power & the others charge for one of those. Do tell where you got it from & the part number as I want to buy a spare.

Shep

bartesque

539 posts

202 months

Monday 27th December 2010
quotequote all
I would get the alternator checked out

I had this problem with a new alternator if I remember correctly TVR modified the standard alternator by adding an extra diode (or something)

The ECU is very sensitive to electrical current

Good luck

LeeT350c

575 posts

180 months

Tuesday 28th December 2010
quotequote all
darkmark07 said:
Hi Lee - I'm willing to do more-or-less anything at the moment, or would be if I was anywhere near the car. Will try as you suggest after xmas - if it is warm, what does it suggest?

Cheers,

Mark
Hi Mark, sorry for the delay

If its warm it would point to the diode pack failing in the alternator which allows for a back feed, making it get warm and draining the battery. This also stops the D+ connector going down to - which gives a 12v feed back to the ECU and prevents the dash from shutting down.

Let us know what you find and further advise is always here!

Cheers. Lee.

richtvr

467 posts

225 months

Wednesday 29th December 2010
quotequote all
i had the same problem was the alternator!

Rich

LeeT350c

575 posts

180 months

Wednesday 29th December 2010
quotequote all
bartesque said:
I would get the alternator checked out

I had this problem with a new alternator if I remember correctly TVR modified the standard alternator by adding an extra diode (or something)

The ECU is very sensitive to electrical current

Good luck
Some aftermarket (cheaper) alternators wont work with the ECU straight out the box.

You need a diode from Maplin to put inline which then allows the dash to shut down. Worth the mod as the alternators are half the price!

Cheers. Lee.

darkmark07

Original Poster:

702 posts

197 months

Saturday 9th April 2011
quotequote all
Just to follow up in case this is helpful to anyone else in the future: alternator was replaced at service and all is now well.

Thanks to all for help and advice smile

rico23

362 posts

159 months

Saturday 9th April 2011
quotequote all
darkmark07 said:
Just to follow up in case this is helpful to anyone else in the future: alternator was replaced at service and all is now well.

Thanks to all for help and advice smile
Thanks for bumping this up smile

sean j g

619 posts

222 months

Saturday 9th April 2011
quotequote all
ALTERNATOR had the same fault new alternator happy days!!!

pennpromo

121 posts

255 months

Monday 11th April 2011
quotequote all
LeeT350c said:
Some aftermarket (cheaper) alternators wont work with the ECU straight out the box.

You need a diode from Maplin to put inline which then allows the dash to shut down. Worth the mod as the alternators are half the price!

Cheers. Lee.
Hi guys, sorry to drag this up again, but I have the same problem. My alternator died, I brought a n "ECU friendly" one from Ebay, and now dash won't shut down, only just put two and two together ! I get the Power faulut code too. Where do you put the diode, in the alternator signal/ energiser wire? And what size diode? Prsumably stopping current coming back up the wire from the alternator?
Many thanks for your help.

shep1001

4,599 posts

188 months

Monday 11th April 2011
quotequote all
pennpromo said:
Hi guys, sorry to drag this up again, but I have the same problem. My alternator died, I brought a n "ECU friendly" one from Ebay, and now dash won't shut down, only just put two and two together ! I get the Power faulut code too. Where do you put the diode, in the alternator signal/ energiser wire? And what size diode? Prsumably stopping current coming back up the wire from the alternator?
Many thanks for your help.
The diode goes in line following the current flow on the D+ terminal(small black wire on mine). Use ring terminals/bullet connectors to make the ends off and insulate.

Go to Maplin and get one of these UK59P-P600A. They cost about £1

Shep

Edited by shep1001 on Monday 11th April 10:32

LeeT350c

575 posts

180 months

Monday 11th April 2011
quotequote all
shep1001 said:
The diode goes in line following the current flow on the D+ terminal(small black wire on mine). Use ring terminals/bullet connectors to make the ends off and insulate.

Go to Maplin and get one of these UK59P-P600A. They cost about £1

Shep

Edited by shep1001 on Monday 11th April 10:32
yes