New rear brake discs and pads on V8 Vantage

[boxercupdave]

In the US I picked up EBC yellow pads from Summit Racing and if I recall they did carry Reds also. To be honest they did make some noise until seated fully and on the rears I had to do the Aston bulletin of installing the metal shim and soft backing pad.

[Jamie-iiez3]

johnnyBv8 said:

I bought a set of Pagid pads from Rick at BMG Autoparts Ltd (01372 378951 or PM him - see further up this thread). Great guy to deal with, very efficient processing/delivery by BMG, and lower price than anywhere else incl Eurocarparts etc for Pistonheaders!

I too bought a set from Rick this morning - excellent, friendly service - highly recommended! He keeps the Pagid DB9 pads in stock and they are keenly priced so I will definitely use again.

[Sump]

Wow you guys pay alot for rear pads.

TRW are cheap, ignore the stock image.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clearance-Without-Wear-S...

I went for Ferrodo, been going well.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ferodo-FDB1949-Brake-disc-...

No squeals either

[R1CKF]

I don't think i would be fitting pads to my Aston Martin that were made for a Jaguar XK8, Chrysler 300c or Seat Ibiza !! and where is the cut out in the Ferodo brake pad for the sensor !!

Pays yer money, yer takes your choice.....

[Sump]

It's the same Brembo calliper What are you expecting to happen? Fit the pads and die in a fiery crash?

Ferrodo doesn't have the cut out.

If you don't like the above brands then the pads also come in a healthy dose of others.

Can sir offer you some Brembo pads instead?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Brembo-P36020-Rear-Disc-Br...

Edited by Sump on Wednesday 2nd December 09:42

[rash_decision]

aMb said:

It was an easy job, if you follow the procedure from the workshop manual the calipers do not need removing:

Removal
1. Raise vehicle on ramp.
2. Remove road wheel/s
3. Remove pad wear sensors.
4. Remove bleed nipple dust caps.
5. Fit bleed bottle.
6. Loosen bleed nipples, push pistons into callipers, tighten
bleed nipples.
7. Remove bleed bottle.
8. Fit bleed nipple dust caps
9. Remove brake pad retaining pins and anti-rattle springs.
10. Remove pads and shims from callipers.

I'm surprised to see this? I've never touched a bleed screw whilst replacing pads, only ever to bleed the system. I would have thought this is only risking the introduction of air into the system. Taking the cap of the reservoir at most, but even that isn't an air tight seal, but I wouldn't touch the bleed screw.

[steveatesh]

rash_decision said:

I'm surprised to see this? I've never touched a bleed screw whilst replacing pads, only ever to bleed the system. I would have thought this is only risking the introduction of air into the system. Taking the cap of the reservoir at most, but even that isn't an air tight seal, but I wouldn't touch the bleed screw.

I changed my rear pads a few in this ago. I did not have to bleed the set, or release the bleed nipples for any reason.

Simply pushed Pistons back while old pads were in place, dust down and insert new pads. Simples.

[8Tech]

The recommended procedure shows to release the bleed nipples because someone may have topped-up the fluid level with worn pads and then when the pistons are pushed back in, the master cylinder will overflow.

If you check the fluid level and it is a little low, then if you have any concerns, get someone to keep an eye on the fluid level as you push the pistons back to install the new pads so that it does not overflow. If you release the bleed nipples, the fluid will bleed from there instead of returning to the reservoir. You may then need to top-up the reservoir.

In 99/100 cases, you will not need to touch the bleed nipples.

[Dingle Dell]

I have never had to touch the bleed nipples when changing pads on any car. On an old BMW race car, to stop the reservoir overflowing when the pistons were pushed back, I just used a kitchen syringe to remove some of the excess fluid - just remember not to put it back in the kitchen drawer..

[smartmove]

As I've now sold my V8 Vantage on I do have a brand new full set of Porterfield pads (front and rear) along with 4 new genuine Aston wear sensor cables. Think this lot sells for around £450 but I am open to offers.

Cheers

[leerandle]

When changing pads and discs, do you actually need to buy new sensors ? If so, why ?

[bogie]

leerandle said:

When changing pads and discs, do you actually need to buy new sensors ? If so, why ?

if they were used - definitely

if you changed before they were used, maybe, depends on how well stuck in they are. If you can get them out easy and they are in good nick, maybe you can get away without changing them

[leerandle]

Thanks, will check when mine need changing, not long left I think as discs worn right down.

[El Toro]

Thanks for the tip off about this chap Rick from BMG.

I emailed him when I left the office about 21:30 and by the time I got home (22:30), he'd responded with a full quote ! 👍👍

Prices were great and the email correspondence was warming too - clearly loved his own V8 Vantage .

Thanks again to all.
El.

[RaysTR]

Recently had my V8V serviced and MOT'd and the routine inspection states all 4 discs are at or below minimum thickness and the work is over £2k. I'm wondering how complicated a job this is and whether special AM tools are required. Any info gratefully received.

[telum01]

RaysTR said:

Recently had my V8V serviced and MOT'd and the routine inspection states all 4 discs are at or below minimum thickness and the work is over £2k. I'm wondering how complicated a job this is and whether special AM tools are required. Any info gratefully received.

No special tools needed. Fairly straight forward if you're mechanically inclined.

[s99ane]

I had the pleasure of speaking with Rick from BMG last week too.


Top guy really helpful.

I got a cracking deal for discs and pads all round for my DB9

Rick now has the original brembo discs in stock for Astons.
Can't recommend him enough plus he does a good deal for fellow pistonheaders.

[leerandle]

I managed to replace my front disc pads and brakes with no special tools or problems. I'm currently doing the rears and the biggest problem (originally) was jacking the car correctly and safely. The rears take slightly longer as you have to remove the handbrake caliper if changing the discs. The bolts are a right pain to take out. I'd second Rick, he's a great guy and very easy to communicate and do business with.

[blade runner]

leerandle said:

I managed to replace my front disc pads and brakes with no special tools or problems. I'm currently doing the rears and the biggest problem (originally) was jacking the car correctly and safely. The rears take slightly longer as you have to remove the handbrake caliper if changing the discs. The bolts are a right pain to take out. I'd second Rick, he's a great guy and very easy to communicate and do business with.

Do you have an email address for Rick by any chance? If so, could you ping it to me in a PM? My discs don't need changing yet, but looking to stock up on some parts so I have what I need later on when they do. Done disc swaps before on my other cars, so figure there's no reason I can do this job myself when needed.

[leerandle]

blade runner said:

Do you have an email address for Rick by any chance? If so, could you ping it to me in a PM? My discs don't need changing yet, but looking to stock up on some parts so I have what I need later on when they do. Done disc swaps before on my other cars, so figure there's no reason I can do this job myself when needed.

Just sent you PM. Any problems let me know.