DB9 engine ticking noise - help please
Discussion
GTDB7 - wow, read the whole threat of ....... 
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/engine-ticki...
really really interesting, I thought it was just my own engine that ticked but apparently its not and all you people out there with V12's, you all best read this threat too as your car will develop the ticking sound as well.
Correct if I am not wrong, but everyone looked at the top of the engine, but then concluded that it was the oil pump. I'm assuming that changing the oil pump will resolve the problem, but that it is expensive to do so.
Warranty - here I come.
Anyone got any issues if I top up my oil with an extra 1 litre of oil on top of the 10.5 litres already in there? That would mean 11.5 litres of oil. Or more if anyone thinks it would help.
What about putting Slick50 into the engine or something similar ???
Help please
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/engine-ticki...
really really interesting, I thought it was just my own engine that ticked but apparently its not and all you people out there with V12's, you all best read this threat too as your car will develop the ticking sound as well.
Correct if I am not wrong, but everyone looked at the top of the engine, but then concluded that it was the oil pump. I'm assuming that changing the oil pump will resolve the problem, but that it is expensive to do so.
Warranty - here I come.
Anyone got any issues if I top up my oil with an extra 1 litre of oil on top of the 10.5 litres already in there? That would mean 11.5 litres of oil. Or more if anyone thinks it would help.
What about putting Slick50 into the engine or something similar ???
Help please
yvr said:
Maverick, before you go overfilling the oil check your dipstick. If you've got the newer shorter one then you've already got extra oil on board. New dipstick part# is 4G4E-6750-AC, might have updated yours during a service.
Thanks I'll check. I am afraid that I am one of those people that don't believe a f
king 
thing that a franchise dealer tells me. So when you say, "service", I don't believe that they did anything other than wipe over the engine with an oily rag. 
I bought the car with a FAMSH, every space stamped. Had a few things go wrong and checked everything myself, wow, I'm wondering if a garage ever lifted the bonnet. I NEVER EVER trust a Franchise garage at all.
Now what I do is get the 9 serviced by a dealer and get the stamp, immediately come home and get the complete service done by my own people, who pull the car apart and do everything. I get to have a FAMSH, and actually get the car serviced as well.
yvr said:
Maverick, before you go overfilling the oil check your dipstick. If you've got the newer shorter one then you've already got extra oil on board. New dipstick part# is 4G4E-6750-AC, might have updated yours during a service.
Ahhh, I forgot. How much oil does the new dip stick allow in. If the normal engine holds 10.5 litres, how much does the new diptsick allow?Thanks
MaverickV12 said:
Ahhh, I forgot. How much oil does the new dip stick allow in. If the normal engine holds 10.5 litres, how much does the new diptsick allow?
Thanks
An extra litre. My dealer always charges me for 12 litres at service, but 11.5 is probably right. Your owner manual is probably out of date. I know mine is.Thanks
Hello again,
I have had a few detailed replies to this thread on Personal Messages (Thank you for that), I thought that the problem was mine and maybe a few others. BUT NO. The problem is huge and getting bigger. All you people with V12's best read all of this thread and the other threads, I say because when your engine reaches 50k, you will start to tick, then you'll be refering back to this thread.
From what I can gather, these V12's came out in 2004 and so the oldest ones are (DB9) 8 years old. At about 50k the engines develop a tick, there can be a meriad of reasons, and please don't think this thread has the answer as it can be lots of reasons. But a big one and an important one is lack of oil pressure and thus the rocker / lashes wearing.
This is a big problem FOR ALL OF US.
You can take out the oil pump and replace it, but you also need to change the Rocker / lashes effected.
My priority at the moment before I take this matter further is that I don't damage the engine any further. I have the updated dipstick in the car, so in theory the car presently holds 12 litres of Mobil 1.
My immediate actions are to use a professional engine oil cleaner to make sure that the tiny little holes that feed oil to the top of the engine are clear. Then change the oil with 12 litres of fresh Mobil 1. Then add some Slick50, this will coat the inside of the engine with teflon. There is no way this is the answer, but it's the best that we can do FOR THE MINUTE.
To be honest, this is like putting a sticking plaster on a broken leg, but for the minute it's all we can do.
I then intend to go to the warranty company to have the oil pump changed. However I know how they work, the first thing they will ask is, "how do you know the oil pump is broken".
This is the question I ask you now .......... how do i check the oil pump pressure and what is it supposed to be ?
With this info I can start to move forward.
Thanks again
I have had a few detailed replies to this thread on Personal Messages (Thank you for that), I thought that the problem was mine and maybe a few others. BUT NO. The problem is huge and getting bigger. All you people with V12's best read all of this thread and the other threads, I say because when your engine reaches 50k, you will start to tick, then you'll be refering back to this thread.
From what I can gather, these V12's came out in 2004 and so the oldest ones are (DB9) 8 years old. At about 50k the engines develop a tick, there can be a meriad of reasons, and please don't think this thread has the answer as it can be lots of reasons. But a big one and an important one is lack of oil pressure and thus the rocker / lashes wearing.
This is a big problem FOR ALL OF US.
You can take out the oil pump and replace it, but you also need to change the Rocker / lashes effected.
My priority at the moment before I take this matter further is that I don't damage the engine any further. I have the updated dipstick in the car, so in theory the car presently holds 12 litres of Mobil 1.
My immediate actions are to use a professional engine oil cleaner to make sure that the tiny little holes that feed oil to the top of the engine are clear. Then change the oil with 12 litres of fresh Mobil 1. Then add some Slick50, this will coat the inside of the engine with teflon. There is no way this is the answer, but it's the best that we can do FOR THE MINUTE.
To be honest, this is like putting a sticking plaster on a broken leg, but for the minute it's all we can do.
I then intend to go to the warranty company to have the oil pump changed. However I know how they work, the first thing they will ask is, "how do you know the oil pump is broken".
This is the question I ask you now .......... how do i check the oil pump pressure and what is it supposed to be ?
With this info I can start to move forward.
Thanks again
Edited by MaverickV12 on Tuesday 11th December 20:49
MaverickV12 said:
Hello again,
I have had a few detailed replies to this threat on Personal Messages (Thank you for that), I thought that the problem was mine and maybe a few others. BUT NO. The problem is huge and getting bigger. All you people with V12's best read all of this threat and the other threats, I say because when your engine reaches 50k, you will start to tick, then you'll be refering back to this thread.
From what I can gather, these V12's came out in 2004 and so the oldest ones are (DB9) 8 years old. At about 50k the engines develop a tick, there can be a meriad of reasons, and please don't think this threat has the answer as it can be lots of reasons. But a big one and an important one is lack of oil pressure and thus the rocker / lashes wearing.
This is a big problem FOR ALL OF US.
You can take out the oil pump and replace it, but you also need to change the Rocker / lashes effected.
My priority at the moment before I take this matter further is that I don't damage the engine any further. I have the updated dipstick in the car, so in theory the car presently holds 12 litres of Mobil 1.
My immediate actions are to use a professional engine oil cleaner to make sure that the tiny little holes that feed oil to the top of the engine are clear. Then change the oil with 12 litres of fresh Mobil 1. Then add some Slick50, this will coat the inside of the engine with teflon. There is no way this is the answer, but it's the best that we can do FOR THE MINUTE.
To be honest, this is like putting a sticking plaster on a broken leg, but for the minute it's all we can do.
I then intend to go to the warranty company to have the oil pump changed. However I know how they work, the first thing they will ask is, "how do you know the oil pump is broken".
This is the question I ask you now .......... how do i check the oil pump pressure and what is it supposed to be ?
With this info I can start to move forward.
Thanks again
My head is going to explode if you keep saying "threat" everywhere...I have had a few detailed replies to this threat on Personal Messages (Thank you for that), I thought that the problem was mine and maybe a few others. BUT NO. The problem is huge and getting bigger. All you people with V12's best read all of this threat and the other threats, I say because when your engine reaches 50k, you will start to tick, then you'll be refering back to this thread.
From what I can gather, these V12's came out in 2004 and so the oldest ones are (DB9) 8 years old. At about 50k the engines develop a tick, there can be a meriad of reasons, and please don't think this threat has the answer as it can be lots of reasons. But a big one and an important one is lack of oil pressure and thus the rocker / lashes wearing.
This is a big problem FOR ALL OF US.
You can take out the oil pump and replace it, but you also need to change the Rocker / lashes effected.
My priority at the moment before I take this matter further is that I don't damage the engine any further. I have the updated dipstick in the car, so in theory the car presently holds 12 litres of Mobil 1.
My immediate actions are to use a professional engine oil cleaner to make sure that the tiny little holes that feed oil to the top of the engine are clear. Then change the oil with 12 litres of fresh Mobil 1. Then add some Slick50, this will coat the inside of the engine with teflon. There is no way this is the answer, but it's the best that we can do FOR THE MINUTE.
To be honest, this is like putting a sticking plaster on a broken leg, but for the minute it's all we can do.
I then intend to go to the warranty company to have the oil pump changed. However I know how they work, the first thing they will ask is, "how do you know the oil pump is broken".
This is the question I ask you now .......... how do i check the oil pump pressure and what is it supposed to be ?
With this info I can start to move forward.
Thanks again
Maverick, are you sure you want to be putting Slick50 in your oil? http://skepdic.com/slick50.html
yvr said:
Maverick, are you sure you want to be putting Slick50 in your oil? http://skepdic.com/slick50.html
Bugger. Bugger. Bugger. I was a skeptic anyway, but the article made sense, if it coats the moving parts what about the non-moving parts, including the all too critical tiny tiny oil passages.
Again I thank you PH'ers for your help pointing out the bloody obvious.
I've cancelled my eBay purchase.
MaverickV12 said:
V!2 stuff...
This is a big problem FOR ALL OF US.
Well for the majority of us it isn't - we have V8's. The V8 is a far better configuration for an Aston, prehaps I should start a thread about why the V8 is better than a V12, could call it a debate! This is a big problem FOR ALL OF US.
Edited by MaverickV12 on Tuesday 11th December 20:49
Yeah, I know I.m not helping.
Genuinely hope you get to the bottom of it, just couldn't resist.
silverspeed said:
Am I correct in saying this only affects V12s up to a certain year ?
If it indeed is a result of low oil pressure at idle causing the hydraulic lifters to partially bleed down, then you would think that the P/N for the oil pump would have changed somewhere along the line in order to correct the problem, so....If you find a P/N change in the parts lists then maybe it was the pump and maybe it has been fixed.
brakedwell said:
29k
Don't worry, you won't have to read this threaD for another year. We'll have sorted it then ....... DB9VolanteDriver said:
then you would think that the P/N for the oil pump would have changed somewhere along the line in order to correct the problem, so....
If you find a P/N change in the parts lists then maybe it was the pump and maybe it has been fixed.
Exactly what I was thinking, does anyone know if the part numbers are different? Someone told me that the Vanquis and Vanquis S have different oil pumps.If you find a P/N change in the parts lists then maybe it was the pump and maybe it has been fixed.
Does anyone know DB9 part numbers and if they change ?
YES! The Part number DID change between the Vanquish and Vanquish S pumps.
What the physical difference is I do not know, unless we get the two side by side on a bench and inspect and test their pressures.
The MOST worrying problem that has been recorded so far is the actual Lash "Bores" wearing in the heads themselves.
Unless you can find an expert engineering firm to re-machine these and either fit oversized lashes or sleeve the bores then it means either new heads or a new engine!
In my opinion this is a manufacturing issue either a physical defect or a design flaw.
But good luck to anyone who can acquire rectification through any official channel.
Maverick, if you intend to flush your engine then I recommend using "FORTE" this is the beez-knees for flushing an engine and is used by most competent engine people if flushing is done.
Be careful not to overfill though, you can syphon some oil via the dipstick pipe using small bore tubing. Use clear stuff so you can see the bad stuff headed to your mouth ;-) Unless you have a syphon pump.
Run the Forte for 30 miles then drop the oil and replace filter and Oil.
According to one Aston Indie, running Forte for 30 miles has free'd off sticking lashes in the past, but it is a long shot.
My theory is that the problem lashes can and probably will rotate within their bores, hence why the noise comes and goes of it's own free will.
I think ultimately the answer is to pray that your lash bores are ok. and then replace all the lashes and roller rockers and if proven to be the case fit an upgraded oil pump.
Myself and another colleague off here are planning to pressure test each head gallery to see if the left has a higher pressure than the right. It seems to always be the right hand bank that develops the noises and not the left. Interesting don't you think?
Unless BR has a V12 in their clutches they can do some preliminary testing, that would be the faster option.
If it's proven that the Left bank is fed better than the right, we can simply bridge the two gallery's together ;-)
What the physical difference is I do not know, unless we get the two side by side on a bench and inspect and test their pressures.
The MOST worrying problem that has been recorded so far is the actual Lash "Bores" wearing in the heads themselves.
Unless you can find an expert engineering firm to re-machine these and either fit oversized lashes or sleeve the bores then it means either new heads or a new engine!
In my opinion this is a manufacturing issue either a physical defect or a design flaw.
But good luck to anyone who can acquire rectification through any official channel.
Maverick, if you intend to flush your engine then I recommend using "FORTE" this is the beez-knees for flushing an engine and is used by most competent engine people if flushing is done.
Be careful not to overfill though, you can syphon some oil via the dipstick pipe using small bore tubing. Use clear stuff so you can see the bad stuff headed to your mouth ;-) Unless you have a syphon pump.
Run the Forte for 30 miles then drop the oil and replace filter and Oil.
According to one Aston Indie, running Forte for 30 miles has free'd off sticking lashes in the past, but it is a long shot.
My theory is that the problem lashes can and probably will rotate within their bores, hence why the noise comes and goes of it's own free will.
I think ultimately the answer is to pray that your lash bores are ok. and then replace all the lashes and roller rockers and if proven to be the case fit an upgraded oil pump.
Myself and another colleague off here are planning to pressure test each head gallery to see if the left has a higher pressure than the right. It seems to always be the right hand bank that develops the noises and not the left. Interesting don't you think?
Unless BR has a V12 in their clutches they can do some preliminary testing, that would be the faster option.
If it's proven that the Left bank is fed better than the right, we can simply bridge the two gallery's together ;-)
Neil1300R said:
Well for the majority of us it isn't - we have V8's. The V8 is a far better configuration for an Aston, prehaps I should start a thread about why the V8 is better than a V12, could call it a debate!
Fear not. I have already started a threaD about V12 - v - V8, I called it a, "debate", if you read the threaD, you will see that I came down completely on the side of the V8.
Again, fear not, when you upgrade your car from a, "baby", Aston to a, "fullsized", one, then you'll be reading this threaD in detail.
Sorry I couldn't resist either
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