DB9 engine ticking noise - help please
Discussion
Thought I'd begin to address this issue and start work on it, so I bought this ....
Changing the oil yourself is not a job like it used to be on my old Cortina, I had to do this, to lift the car up and take off the undertray and also access the oil filter which is buried within the engine (everything is buried with the damn thing)
I had done some research about the oil etc and it appears that to clean the oil is the first step, so I put in the engine flush stuff and got this out ......
What came out was very thin, but that might be to do with the flush chemicals added to the oil, but it also came out as black as tar. This was an issue that made me look at my service history as to when the oil was changed. I had the oil changed on the 02nd October 2012, that meant that the oil was 15 weeks old. ........ 15 WEEKS .........
and it looked like this.
It looks like this stuff ......
......certainly does something.
When I started the engine, it was quiet .......... wow ........... I heard just the normal engine noise. This stayed with me for some 5 minutes until the engine warmed up. For me this is not normal. I have driven the car a couple of times since this and whilst the engine and oil are cold, the engine is quiet, when everything warms up the tick returns.
I will now look at ths Lashes and Rockers, but question about the thickness of oil to use .......
Anyone got any comments on using thicker oil.......? Would love to listen to them.
Changing the oil yourself is not a job like it used to be on my old Cortina, I had to do this, to lift the car up and take off the undertray and also access the oil filter which is buried within the engine (everything is buried with the damn thing)
I had done some research about the oil etc and it appears that to clean the oil is the first step, so I put in the engine flush stuff and got this out ......
What came out was very thin, but that might be to do with the flush chemicals added to the oil, but it also came out as black as tar. This was an issue that made me look at my service history as to when the oil was changed. I had the oil changed on the 02nd October 2012, that meant that the oil was 15 weeks old. ........ 15 WEEKS .........
and it looked like this.It looks like this stuff ......
......certainly does something.
When I started the engine, it was quiet .......... wow ........... I heard just the normal engine noise. This stayed with me for some 5 minutes until the engine warmed up. For me this is not normal. I have driven the car a couple of times since this and whilst the engine and oil are cold, the engine is quiet, when everything warms up the tick returns.
I will now look at ths Lashes and Rockers, but question about the thickness of oil to use .......
Anyone got any comments on using thicker oil.......? Would love to listen to them.
I would be very wary of running with more viscous oil. The thicker oil would not flow so freely through the oilways and put additional strain on the oil pump, especially when cold.
Also re the engine flush, I've used flushing fluids a few times and I'm sure there's something in the flush fluid to turn the oil black so it looks like it really needed it, it's unlikely that your oil has deteriorated to that state after only three months unless you've been tracking it.
Also re the engine flush, I've used flushing fluids a few times and I'm sure there's something in the flush fluid to turn the oil black so it looks like it really needed it, it's unlikely that your oil has deteriorated to that state after only three months unless you've been tracking it.
897sma said:
I would be very wary of running with more viscous oil. The thicker oil would not flow so freely through the oilways and put additional strain on the oil pump, especially when cold.
Also re the engine flush, I've used flushing fluids a few times and I'm sure there's something in the flush fluid to turn the oil black so it looks like it really needed it, it's unlikely that your oil has deteriorated to that state after only three months unless you've been tracking it.
+1 that oil IS NOT 15 weeks old unless you've done some serious mileageAlso re the engine flush, I've used flushing fluids a few times and I'm sure there's something in the flush fluid to turn the oil black so it looks like it really needed it, it's unlikely that your oil has deteriorated to that state after only three months unless you've been tracking it.
Be very careful with flushes, we use them on oil cooled machines, they can lift debris that was never going to move otherwise and block oil galleries you will never get to to clean out
Does the tapping / ticking get louder under heavier acceleration?
Whilest in neutral, open the door, lean under the car and gently squaeze the throttle to find out. Repeat from the pax side (obviously someone else in the driving seat) and you'll be able to determine which side it's comeing from.
Let me know.
Whilest in neutral, open the door, lean under the car and gently squaeze the throttle to find out. Repeat from the pax side (obviously someone else in the driving seat) and you'll be able to determine which side it's comeing from.
Let me know.
Forte is a VERY good flushing agent and is used by a lot of high end engine builder type people etc.. a lot just don't advertise the fact they use such stuff.
The Black is from all the crud and old deposits that are retained within the engine between oil changes, all the Forte does is dissolve it and the oil then carries it out of your drain plugs.
You could flush with 1-day old oil in and you'd still get it black after a good flushing.
There are a few reasons for the tick, however each case might be very different from the next and would also involve a full strip down to actually identify each specific cause.
It does seem that most ticks come from the same area on all engines, this being the right hand bank and then from the center to the rear of the bank, narrowing it down to the end of the upper oil gallery feed on the right hand bank.
The oil galleries are fed from the front of the engine and the oil passes along the gallery, into the lash bores and then the lashes themselves, and the cam lobes are lubricated from oil being forced out of the lashes at the top.
As you can imagine there is a long journey for the oil to take before it reaches the contact point of cam lobe and lash top. (not omitting the roller (finger) rocker)
Also the right hand bank is furthest from the oil pump, so will probably show the lowest pressure point in the system (not withstanding wear elsewhere)
On the DB7 V12's it is at the end of this gallery where the oil pressure gauge is tapped from.
So the dash does give an approx indication of pressure to the lashes on the right hand bank (left hand if you are left hand drive).
In time I wish to perform a side to side measurement to see if the left bank receives a better pressure reading than the right side, but as my car lives outside that can wait until the summer (if we get one).
I am still favouring the accumulator idea. Anything that will pre-oil the lashes and pressurise them before engine start can only be a good thing. The rasp we all hear on a cold start will be the time it takes the oil to get up from the sump by itself, over the life of an engine, imagine how many revolutions that will add up to!
The Black is from all the crud and old deposits that are retained within the engine between oil changes, all the Forte does is dissolve it and the oil then carries it out of your drain plugs.
You could flush with 1-day old oil in and you'd still get it black after a good flushing.
There are a few reasons for the tick, however each case might be very different from the next and would also involve a full strip down to actually identify each specific cause.
It does seem that most ticks come from the same area on all engines, this being the right hand bank and then from the center to the rear of the bank, narrowing it down to the end of the upper oil gallery feed on the right hand bank.
The oil galleries are fed from the front of the engine and the oil passes along the gallery, into the lash bores and then the lashes themselves, and the cam lobes are lubricated from oil being forced out of the lashes at the top.
As you can imagine there is a long journey for the oil to take before it reaches the contact point of cam lobe and lash top. (not omitting the roller (finger) rocker)
Also the right hand bank is furthest from the oil pump, so will probably show the lowest pressure point in the system (not withstanding wear elsewhere)
On the DB7 V12's it is at the end of this gallery where the oil pressure gauge is tapped from.
So the dash does give an approx indication of pressure to the lashes on the right hand bank (left hand if you are left hand drive).
In time I wish to perform a side to side measurement to see if the left bank receives a better pressure reading than the right side, but as my car lives outside that can wait until the summer (if we get one).
I am still favouring the accumulator idea. Anything that will pre-oil the lashes and pressurise them before engine start can only be a good thing. The rasp we all hear on a cold start will be the time it takes the oil to get up from the sump by itself, over the life of an engine, imagine how many revolutions that will add up to!
Thanks for your info guys, GTDB7 as ever very informative. Worked on the engine today, was painfully slow as the access to the engine is very very tight, but if it was easy everyone would do it.
Took off the spark plug cover first, this was easy ....
The above photo shows the coil packs, even taking these out was a problem, just because it looked easy and accessable, it as not, took about an hour. Then I had these ....
The above photo shows the rockers and lashes, as well as the spark plug gaskets, and the sealant tube. The sealant tube was not the right one and they should have sent a camshaft cover gasket, but the gasket is really in good condition, so it's not all bad.
Then I took off the cam shaft cover. Whilst this looks straight forward, its not, this took ages, again because of access ....
This then showed us the camshafts etc .......
The engineering in this engine is fantastic ...
I cannot dedicate a full 8 hour day to this work (because I keep getting pulled off to resolve other issues with work - its a bugger that work gets in the way of Astoning), but to get the camshaft cover off took me approx 5 hours, I'm a bit embarrassed it took me so long, but it was just the best I could do. Access is not poor, its very poor ....
I had 12 lashes and 12 Rockers, I ordered a further 12 and 12, to see if I can change them all, but I am very concered about the the timing chain, as if I touch that, its pretty much an engine out job. So lets just go careful. Its cold her and a threat of snowing, so it took a couple of hours to push the car inside, with the heating on, tea and biscuits (and Aspirin) things are not so bad.
I spoke to a Franchise dealer and a tech mechanic in a 12 minute conversation said that the rockers may be the problem, but his advice was to put the engine back together and bring it to them to listen to the engine. To be honest he was not that helpful and said it could be the main bearings, could not wait to get off the phone, but Idid glint that it was the rockers.
I could see how the rockers could be affected .......
Does anyone know how to get the rockers out? They seem to be wedged in there nice and tight ?
Took off the spark plug cover first, this was easy ....
The above photo shows the coil packs, even taking these out was a problem, just because it looked easy and accessable, it as not, took about an hour. Then I had these ....
The above photo shows the rockers and lashes, as well as the spark plug gaskets, and the sealant tube. The sealant tube was not the right one and they should have sent a camshaft cover gasket, but the gasket is really in good condition, so it's not all bad.
Then I took off the cam shaft cover. Whilst this looks straight forward, its not, this took ages, again because of access ....
This then showed us the camshafts etc .......
The engineering in this engine is fantastic ...
I cannot dedicate a full 8 hour day to this work (because I keep getting pulled off to resolve other issues with work - its a bugger that work gets in the way of Astoning), but to get the camshaft cover off took me approx 5 hours, I'm a bit embarrassed it took me so long, but it was just the best I could do. Access is not poor, its very poor ....
I had 12 lashes and 12 Rockers, I ordered a further 12 and 12, to see if I can change them all, but I am very concered about the the timing chain, as if I touch that, its pretty much an engine out job. So lets just go careful. Its cold her and a threat of snowing, so it took a couple of hours to push the car inside, with the heating on, tea and biscuits (and Aspirin) things are not so bad.
I spoke to a Franchise dealer and a tech mechanic in a 12 minute conversation said that the rockers may be the problem, but his advice was to put the engine back together and bring it to them to listen to the engine. To be honest he was not that helpful and said it could be the main bearings, could not wait to get off the phone, but Idid glint that it was the rockers.
I could see how the rockers could be affected .......
Does anyone know how to get the rockers out? They seem to be wedged in there nice and tight ?
X7LDA said:
Does the tapping / ticking get louder under heavier acceleration?
Whilest in neutral, open the door, lean under the car and gently squaeze the throttle to find out. Repeat from the pax side (obviously someone else in the driving seat) and you'll be able to determine which side it's comeing from.
Let me know.
Hello X7. The answer in a nutshell is, "No". AFTER I flushed the engine, it WAS better, for the first 5 minutes whilst the oil is cold and the engine cold, then the engine makes no noise and sounds perfect. When it warms up the ticking returns. However, the noise is not as bad as it was before I flushed the engine. I have not taken the car for a spirited ride since the flush, but BEFORE the flush, after a spirited run, the ticking noise was very pronounced.Whilest in neutral, open the door, lean under the car and gently squaeze the throttle to find out. Repeat from the pax side (obviously someone else in the driving seat) and you'll be able to determine which side it's comeing from.
Let me know.
The ticking IS there, but NOT so bad, but still bad enough for me to fix the issue.
897sma said:
I would be very wary of running with more viscous oil. The thicker oil would not flow so freely through the oilways and put additional strain on the oil pump, especially when cold
I am very much of the same opinion, and hence I did not change the vescosity when I changed the oil. I thought that I would just be hiding a problem without addressing it, and then stressing the engine in another way, which is what (I think) you are saying.Other PH'ers, the state of the oil etc. I had the oil changed 15 weeks ago at a Jaguar Franchise dealer, so I'm pretty much trusting them that they did what they said that they would do, so the oil is defo 15 weeks old.
My view is that the flush ... (and I have been told by fellow PH'ers and others - that the flush is a very good one and one that the trade uses) ... has made lose the black sludge that was all around the engine and sump etc. Having made it all lose, it then comes out with the oil change. I feel that if I had flushed every time, then there would not be so much sludge to remove.
The oil is defo 15 weeks old, but I believe the sludge is old, I think that I will use a flush every time I change the oil from here on in. I am hoping to resolve the problem with the ticking engine, then change the oil again in about 3 months. I am hoping that the oil will come out clean then. I wanted to flush the oil before we looked at the rockers, because I did not want to change the rockers and still have sludge roaming around the engine.
Just so you can judge the matter, my car has about 40k on the clock, and the engine runs like a turbine, its a beauty .... just damn well ticks .......
Nice write up
I heard that you can remove the rockers and lashes without removing the cam, something along the lines of rotating the cam to compress the lash then rotate off the lobe to gain the clearance to remove.
Might be best to ask Mike at B&R how best to replace them, you may need a tool to aid in their removal and refitting.
One thing I would like to ask is, can I have some of the OLD lashes you remove and possibly some rocker arms?
My friend who is also an Aston owner wants to test the old lashes on a jig to measure the compression times or something like that, it basically tells us if they are within working tolerance or not and we also want to dissect any bad ones to find out why they failed.
We have the original patent drawing for the lashes and have internal diagrams for them, they are a very basic design and without measuring a faulty one I assume there is little to fail apart from wear between the center land and body.
They also have a ball bearing and 2 springs at the base internally and these I suspect could fail, but without stripping a few down and inspecting all the internals it's pure speculation.
::The patent Abstract reads as follows::
A Hydraulic lash adjuster having a plunger assembly including an upper plunger and a lower plunger, the plungers being disposed within a body defining a bore and in conventional leakdown plungers, cooporating with the bore to define a nominal diametral clearance.
In accordance with one aspect of the invention, the plungers and the bore are provided with a reduced diametral clearance, substantially less than the nominal clearance, thus substantially improving the consistency of leakdown times.
In accordance with another aspect of the invention, the upper plunger element includes a center land which defines a fluid passage, such as by having a flat ground into the land, to ensure the proper amount of lubrication fluid flowing out of the ball plunger.
::End of Abstract::
There a few areas in the above design that should any amount of wear set in, then the lash will simply not function as intended, especially at low oil volumes (engine idle speeds).
I heard that you can remove the rockers and lashes without removing the cam, something along the lines of rotating the cam to compress the lash then rotate off the lobe to gain the clearance to remove.
Might be best to ask Mike at B&R how best to replace them, you may need a tool to aid in their removal and refitting.
One thing I would like to ask is, can I have some of the OLD lashes you remove and possibly some rocker arms?
My friend who is also an Aston owner wants to test the old lashes on a jig to measure the compression times or something like that, it basically tells us if they are within working tolerance or not and we also want to dissect any bad ones to find out why they failed.
We have the original patent drawing for the lashes and have internal diagrams for them, they are a very basic design and without measuring a faulty one I assume there is little to fail apart from wear between the center land and body.
They also have a ball bearing and 2 springs at the base internally and these I suspect could fail, but without stripping a few down and inspecting all the internals it's pure speculation.
::The patent Abstract reads as follows::
A Hydraulic lash adjuster having a plunger assembly including an upper plunger and a lower plunger, the plungers being disposed within a body defining a bore and in conventional leakdown plungers, cooporating with the bore to define a nominal diametral clearance.
In accordance with one aspect of the invention, the plungers and the bore are provided with a reduced diametral clearance, substantially less than the nominal clearance, thus substantially improving the consistency of leakdown times.
In accordance with another aspect of the invention, the upper plunger element includes a center land which defines a fluid passage, such as by having a flat ground into the land, to ensure the proper amount of lubrication fluid flowing out of the ball plunger.
::End of Abstract::
There a few areas in the above design that should any amount of wear set in, then the lash will simply not function as intended, especially at low oil volumes (engine idle speeds).
GTDB7 said:
It does seem that most ticks come from the same area on all engines, this being the right hand bank and then from the center to the rear of the bank, narrowing it down to the end of the upper oil gallery feed on the right hand bank.
My experience would agree with this, I bought a sethascope and I played around the engine and it really really did come from that location. When I exposed the camshaft and rockers, I felt around the cams and they all seemed perfectly smooth, so I am hoping that the little, "wheels", inside the rockers are worn on one or more of the rockers. I am hoping that the bearing has gone on one.I am a little anxious that when the engine is cold, its perfect and when warm its not.
If it were a worn Rocker or Lash, then why would it not make a noise when cold as well ...... ?
GTDB7 said:
One thing I would like to ask is, can I have some of the OLD lashes you remove and possibly some rocker arms?
GT, if I can get them out, you're welcome to them. Defo.You recon that the Lashes may be the problem not the rockers. Interesting, I can see the theory .....
I have 12 Rockers and 12 Lashes, and I have ordered a further 12 and 12, because if the labour time involved was huge, I just as well change them all, assumming of course the damn things come out. They do look damn tight though, so if there is another tool that can help take them out, I'd love to know.
Is anyone from BR reading this thread ? Would love to hear from you
GT, I understand you're working on an aftermarket alternate system, I'm all ears ..... I realise it's not up and running yet, when it is, I hope you'll post it on PH.
drofnavi said:
If your engine has big miles, it might benefit from 5w 40 oil.
I understand what you mean, it has 40k on it. 5-40 is not a huge difference from 0-40, so it could be a consideration, I have read some info about 20-60 for racing cars, but it's playing with something that appears to be a well established issue that the 0-40 is good. 
BamfordMike
372 posts
22 months
[report] [news] Tuesday 11th December 2012
yvr said:
Mike, don't know if you've been following this thread full of dire warnings (and threats!) for V12 owners: DB9 engine ticking... I've been hoping that you might chime in with an expert opinion based on your experience, having actually seen the insides of some of them.
Hi.
To correctly diagnose engine rattles over a forum is quite a tough one....
There are a few sources of common rattles on V12, most common are;
Prop rattle.
Heard at idle, not from cold start at fast idle but when oil warm and at normal idle speed. Is worse / best heard sitting in drivers seat opening door and listening from below sill. Press throttle and make engine speed rise above 1500rpm the rattle will go, allow engine to idle the noise will return. Is an engine related problem, noise is result of uneven combustion, typically a coil which has gone down or slight misfire for another reason is present. The uneven firing pulsations between the banks results in a rattle sound travelling down the torque tube and is amplified by it.
Throttle blade rattle.
Heard when accelerator pedal is pressed at idle and as speed rises to about 1300rpm a rattle, much like the sort of sound one would guess as being tappet / lash adjuster rattle occurs. Is a result of the throttle blade closing past electronic minimum blade angle (around 2 degrees), the sound occurs as blade rattles against the housing (where normally it should be held around 2 degrees away from housing). This is a serious problem because under long overrun conditions from high rpm the throttle will fully close (where normally it should be held slightly open) causing manifold absolute pressure to drop below a value that pulls oil across into breather circuit (<17KPa)
Tappet / Lash adjusters.
Rattle heard at idle and when blipping throttle / as engine speed rises. Caused because lash adjuster failing to hold oil / pressure required to take up clearances in valvetrain. Very common problem, lost track of the number of indi and franschised dealerships we have gone into to change the lash adjusters in situ.
Bottom end / bearings.
One engine we worked on that sounded 'very tickey', was oil temp sensitive (no noise cold but noise developed hot). We checked all the obvious other sources of rattles and decided to drop bottom end of the engine. There were no visible signs of wear on bearings when removed but the noise went away after bearing change and engine rebuild.....
Death rattle.
Normally a result of running low on oil, first to fail is big end bearing causing crank and rod contact - the rattle. As the bearing wears totally away there is enough rod / piston movement for the piston crown to clash cylinder head - the death...
There are a few good practices that can prevent certain failures.
At service, if the airfilters are dripping oil replace breather circuit valves.
At 7 year service, so manifolds off for spark plug change, replace breather circuit valves even if no oil pull over is present.
Consider lash adjuster renewal if mileage is above 60/70k at 7 year service too.
There are many V12 customer cars that come in for routine service each year, and as each year passes mileage is a little higher and there are no issues to report whatsoever - normal life goes on. I have read comments like 'problems' are wide-spread and 'it' will effect every engine / car around 50k miles and that 'issues' are 'ticking timebombs' (Intended) - I can not concur that.
However, there are a number of high mileage engines that we have seen which needed complete strip and repair, that when we closely examined each component for wear, the conclusion drawn is that if it wasn't for the original reason we stripped the engine, much of the rest of the engine is very close behind to showing a symptom of wear that would require full rebuild anyway. That figure is around 80-90k miles. I am not saying that this is the service limit of the engine. What I am saying is that whilst this engine would probably 'potter' around quite happy for a good few more miles without issue, one good 'spirited' drive might be its last before refresh / rebuild.
Advice;
Check oil every week.
Do more than minimum service schedule by preventing anything bad from happening by replacing the usual suspects when it is efficient to do so at certain service schedules.
If new to the car, have a pre purchase inspection.
372 posts
22 months
[report] [news] Tuesday 11th December 2012
yvr said:
Mike, don't know if you've been following this thread full of dire warnings (and threats!) for V12 owners: DB9 engine ticking... I've been hoping that you might chime in with an expert opinion based on your experience, having actually seen the insides of some of them.
Hi.
To correctly diagnose engine rattles over a forum is quite a tough one....
There are a few sources of common rattles on V12, most common are;
Prop rattle.
Heard at idle, not from cold start at fast idle but when oil warm and at normal idle speed. Is worse / best heard sitting in drivers seat opening door and listening from below sill. Press throttle and make engine speed rise above 1500rpm the rattle will go, allow engine to idle the noise will return. Is an engine related problem, noise is result of uneven combustion, typically a coil which has gone down or slight misfire for another reason is present. The uneven firing pulsations between the banks results in a rattle sound travelling down the torque tube and is amplified by it.
Throttle blade rattle.
Heard when accelerator pedal is pressed at idle and as speed rises to about 1300rpm a rattle, much like the sort of sound one would guess as being tappet / lash adjuster rattle occurs. Is a result of the throttle blade closing past electronic minimum blade angle (around 2 degrees), the sound occurs as blade rattles against the housing (where normally it should be held around 2 degrees away from housing). This is a serious problem because under long overrun conditions from high rpm the throttle will fully close (where normally it should be held slightly open) causing manifold absolute pressure to drop below a value that pulls oil across into breather circuit (<17KPa)
Tappet / Lash adjusters.
Rattle heard at idle and when blipping throttle / as engine speed rises. Caused because lash adjuster failing to hold oil / pressure required to take up clearances in valvetrain. Very common problem, lost track of the number of indi and franschised dealerships we have gone into to change the lash adjusters in situ.
Bottom end / bearings.
One engine we worked on that sounded 'very tickey', was oil temp sensitive (no noise cold but noise developed hot). We checked all the obvious other sources of rattles and decided to drop bottom end of the engine. There were no visible signs of wear on bearings when removed but the noise went away after bearing change and engine rebuild.....
Death rattle.
Normally a result of running low on oil, first to fail is big end bearing causing crank and rod contact - the rattle. As the bearing wears totally away there is enough rod / piston movement for the piston crown to clash cylinder head - the death...
There are a few good practices that can prevent certain failures.
At service, if the airfilters are dripping oil replace breather circuit valves.
At 7 year service, so manifolds off for spark plug change, replace breather circuit valves even if no oil pull over is present.
Consider lash adjuster renewal if mileage is above 60/70k at 7 year service too.
There are many V12 customer cars that come in for routine service each year, and as each year passes mileage is a little higher and there are no issues to report whatsoever - normal life goes on. I have read comments like 'problems' are wide-spread and 'it' will effect every engine / car around 50k miles and that 'issues' are 'ticking timebombs' (Intended) - I can not concur that.
However, there are a number of high mileage engines that we have seen which needed complete strip and repair, that when we closely examined each component for wear, the conclusion drawn is that if it wasn't for the original reason we stripped the engine, much of the rest of the engine is very close behind to showing a symptom of wear that would require full rebuild anyway. That figure is around 80-90k miles. I am not saying that this is the service limit of the engine. What I am saying is that whilst this engine would probably 'potter' around quite happy for a good few more miles without issue, one good 'spirited' drive might be its last before refresh / rebuild.
Advice;
Check oil every week.
Do more than minimum service schedule by preventing anything bad from happening by replacing the usual suspects when it is efficient to do so at certain service schedules.
If new to the car, have a pre purchase inspection.
I cut and paste from BR, thanks for showing me. To be honest I wish I had read this before I started. I did consider the prop shaft, but after playing for about 15 minutes with a stethascope I went for the rocker/lashes.
I always considered the rockers, but BR are pointing towards the Lashes, as is GTDB7, ummm ....... should I ignore such indicators ......?
Does anyone know how to remove the rocker / lashes without taking the camshaft off?
Slacker - thank you for pointing this post out from BR, I didn't realise it was there.
I always considered the rockers, but BR are pointing towards the Lashes, as is GTDB7, ummm ....... should I ignore such indicators ......?
Does anyone know how to remove the rocker / lashes without taking the camshaft off?
Slacker - thank you for pointing this post out from BR, I didn't realise it was there.
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