DB9 engine ticking noise - help please
Discussion
The, “tick”, remains after the work 
, but its different, significantly different ……… 
Spent quite a while just putting the engine back together, below is a photo of the central wires and tubes for the Injection and Coil packs, the wires are all (obviously) pre-cut and fit, but its still complicated, damned complicated
Fired up the engine first time, a slight delay of about 2 seconds before it started, I thought that was pretty good.
Upon starting the engine the drivers side of the V sounded like a tractor, this changed after about 30 seconds and went quiet. I knew it went quiet last time after changing the oil (and flushing) but this only lasted 5 minutes whilst the engine warmed up and the oil got hot and went thin.
So for 5 minutes the engine was quiet, I spent all of this time with the stethoscope probing the engine. IMPORTANT – you need to go very careful how you use this stethoscope, if the steel bar touches anything other than what you want to listen to, it picks up other noises. If you touch the inlet manifold and go near the engine valves, again you can hear a tick, of course you can, it’s the inlet valves, and each port sounds with a tick.
The engine went a bit noisy, then quiet again. But I also had to stand back a bit and look at the engine, I needed to remember that I was listening for a noise and my ear was 12 inches from a huge V12 with 48 valves tapping away.
I warmed the car further and started to get the engine hot, and the, “tick”, returned. But NOT where it was before. I had the engine running for about 30 minutes, like usual, it gets to the stage that the whole engine gets very hot, one thing the V12 is good at, and that is producing heat.
I spent this whole time with the stethoscope all over the engine, and to be honest after the engine had warmed up properly the passenger side of the engine, “had the edge on noise”, over the drivers side of the V. This was confirmed by the stethoscope and boy did I spend a lot of time with that. Again, go careful where you probe the stethoscope, if you touch the bolts that go down into the engine, again you pick up a ticking sound, move it ½ inch and the tick goes.
The tick was now coming from UNDER the car, it had come from here before, but the engine was making a noise and I thought that the noise was travelling. Perhaps it was, I don’t know.
I now thought back to an old-timer who looked at the noise in the first place, and he said it sounds like the prop-shaft. If we read BR post (on another thread – but added by me to this thread), one of the noises they say it could be is from the prop-shaft. Thankfully we have the big aluminium base cover off because I want to change the Drive Belt at the same time, so tomorrow I can probe the prop-shaft tunnel.
BR said about the engine not being in balance, I did feel the engine was not quite right and will get diagnostics onto it tomorrow. Am I right in thinking that the prop-shaft tunnel has an inspection plate?
I feel that because I have changed the Rockers and Lashes, I feel that any, “damage”, that may be being caused, has at least stopped. But what is confusing is that in flushing the oil, how did this make a difference?
Anyway tomorrow I will be putting the rest of the engine back together, changing the drive belt and climbing underneath to probe the tunnel. For information, the ticking is audible when the engine is ticking over, when the revs increase the ticking goes, to be fair the exhaust is so damned loud even if the tick remained it would drown it, but listening carefully the tick goes when the revs increase.
Importantly, I did not take the car for a run, as all the engine bracing was missing, as were other bits and pieces.
Has anyone please got any info that they think might be helpful, access to the tunnel? Noise from the tunnel? Where the ticking might be coming from (below the car) now? How the engine might be unbalanced?
Thanks …..
, but its different, significantly different ……… Spent quite a while just putting the engine back together, below is a photo of the central wires and tubes for the Injection and Coil packs, the wires are all (obviously) pre-cut and fit, but its still complicated, damned complicated
Fired up the engine first time, a slight delay of about 2 seconds before it started, I thought that was pretty good.
Upon starting the engine the drivers side of the V sounded like a tractor, this changed after about 30 seconds and went quiet. I knew it went quiet last time after changing the oil (and flushing) but this only lasted 5 minutes whilst the engine warmed up and the oil got hot and went thin.
So for 5 minutes the engine was quiet, I spent all of this time with the stethoscope probing the engine. IMPORTANT – you need to go very careful how you use this stethoscope, if the steel bar touches anything other than what you want to listen to, it picks up other noises. If you touch the inlet manifold and go near the engine valves, again you can hear a tick, of course you can, it’s the inlet valves, and each port sounds with a tick.
The engine went a bit noisy, then quiet again. But I also had to stand back a bit and look at the engine, I needed to remember that I was listening for a noise and my ear was 12 inches from a huge V12 with 48 valves tapping away.
I warmed the car further and started to get the engine hot, and the, “tick”, returned. But NOT where it was before. I had the engine running for about 30 minutes, like usual, it gets to the stage that the whole engine gets very hot, one thing the V12 is good at, and that is producing heat.
I spent this whole time with the stethoscope all over the engine, and to be honest after the engine had warmed up properly the passenger side of the engine, “had the edge on noise”, over the drivers side of the V. This was confirmed by the stethoscope and boy did I spend a lot of time with that. Again, go careful where you probe the stethoscope, if you touch the bolts that go down into the engine, again you pick up a ticking sound, move it ½ inch and the tick goes.
The tick was now coming from UNDER the car, it had come from here before, but the engine was making a noise and I thought that the noise was travelling. Perhaps it was, I don’t know.
I now thought back to an old-timer who looked at the noise in the first place, and he said it sounds like the prop-shaft. If we read BR post (on another thread – but added by me to this thread), one of the noises they say it could be is from the prop-shaft. Thankfully we have the big aluminium base cover off because I want to change the Drive Belt at the same time, so tomorrow I can probe the prop-shaft tunnel.
BR said about the engine not being in balance, I did feel the engine was not quite right and will get diagnostics onto it tomorrow. Am I right in thinking that the prop-shaft tunnel has an inspection plate?
I feel that because I have changed the Rockers and Lashes, I feel that any, “damage”, that may be being caused, has at least stopped. But what is confusing is that in flushing the oil, how did this make a difference?
Anyway tomorrow I will be putting the rest of the engine back together, changing the drive belt and climbing underneath to probe the tunnel. For information, the ticking is audible when the engine is ticking over, when the revs increase the ticking goes, to be fair the exhaust is so damned loud even if the tick remained it would drown it, but listening carefully the tick goes when the revs increase.
Importantly, I did not take the car for a run, as all the engine bracing was missing, as were other bits and pieces.
Has anyone please got any info that they think might be helpful, access to the tunnel? Noise from the tunnel? Where the ticking might be coming from (below the car) now? How the engine might be unbalanced?
Thanks …..
The reason I asked is, I had the drivers side wheel arch liner off my car a few weeks ago, the vacuum pump that controls the exhaust valves ticks and chatters at just above tickover and then goes quiet. I was surprised by how much noise it made. Could be completely out of left field, just a thought.
B1, I love left field idea's sometimes they are the ones that solve stuff ...... 
V8Wollie is correct, I removed fuse 22 on day of purchase. Since then I have had a sports exhaust put on, so it looks nothing like the normal exhaust. But your post has reminded me of something else, did someone not mention about a ticking sound earlier on, along the same lines?
With the base plate off, I can hear that the tick is coming from the centre of the car at the base of the engine, just where someone would normally have a Auto / Manual box installed, but of course ours are at the back of the car .......
V8Wollie is correct, I removed fuse 22 on day of purchase. Since then I have had a sports exhaust put on, so it looks nothing like the normal exhaust. But your post has reminded me of something else, did someone not mention about a ticking sound earlier on, along the same lines?
With the base plate off, I can hear that the tick is coming from the centre of the car at the base of the engine, just where someone would normally have a Auto / Manual box installed, but of course ours are at the back of the car .......
Would it be fair to propose that you may have had two ticks and one was masking the other?
Changing out the lashes cured the top tick and smoothed out the running a little to allow the lower tick to now be heard?
Prior to the lash change how certain were you that the tick was coming form the top end and not the lower end?
I am also interested to find out if the prop tick is something that occurs on the DB7's and not just the DB9's etc.. as the props and gearbox arrangements are completely different.
If the prop tick is a product of slight in-balance then perhaps your air filter clean up might cure this as part of the process!
Changing out the lashes cured the top tick and smoothed out the running a little to allow the lower tick to now be heard?
Prior to the lash change how certain were you that the tick was coming form the top end and not the lower end?
I am also interested to find out if the prop tick is something that occurs on the DB7's and not just the DB9's etc.. as the props and gearbox arrangements are completely different.
If the prop tick is a product of slight in-balance then perhaps your air filter clean up might cure this as part of the process!
GTDB7 said:
If the prop tick is a product of slight in-balance then perhaps your air filter clean up might cure this as part of the process!
Thats exactly what I thought, and hence my keeness to solve that issue as well .....I am certain there was a tick from the drivers side V towards the rear, I am also certain there was a tick from underneath the car. The underneath part was easy, the tick was clear as a bell, the engine tick was less clear. I spent a long time with the stethascope placing it all over the engine covers, comparing either side, different places all over the camcovers, manifolds, engine etc etc. I went on and on. I finally sourced the tick and it was only a small tick (perhaps I should have worked it out that the small tick was too small to be the under the car tick).
But defo there was an engine tick. As described previously that tick is now gone (having said that I have not road tested the car).
I looked at the tunnel issue and the unbalanced engine, I looked at the vacuum pipes and some had oil in them some did not, but I will detail this later. I am wondering if this is the imbalance ..... if you read BR post, they said they change the PCV valves at every oppourtunity whether or not there is a problem .. they obviously don't do that for fun.
Also I considered more serious problems such as the crankshaft issues / bearing, but the engine runs like a turbine, powerful, smooth everything, surely there would be some type of tell tale signs, maybe miss a heart beat, rattle etc, but the engine runs perfect. If it is the oil being burnt, then maybe the 6.0 litre engine is hiding this, running at say 95% perfect, I don't notice the 5% problem and this might cause an imbalance.
I looked under the car at the tunnel. WOW, we will look at that another day. I took some photos that I will post, but, you need to take off the underplate at the front, the underplate in the middle, the rear cats and exhaust, then all the heat shielding ......... then you get to, "see", the tunnel. So I will be looking to invest in a scissor jack or some sort of post jack, so that access can be easily gained, so this will remain for a couple of months, having said that perhaps the PCV issue might help, I will work on the car on Monday now .....
Again, any advice and help is much appreciated
Having taken off the aluminium undertray, I got one of the boys to do this .....
Looking at the propshaft tunnel .......
The above photo shows the stuff we have to get through to, "look", at the tunnel.
Above is the front assembly next to the engine.
Above is another view of the tunnel. I could use the stethscope on the tunnel, but I would have to warm the engine up again, i think I'll leave this for a little bit.
Looking at the propshaft tunnel .......
The above photo shows the stuff we have to get through to, "look", at the tunnel.
Above is the front assembly next to the engine.
Above is another view of the tunnel. I could use the stethscope on the tunnel, but I would have to warm the engine up again, i think I'll leave this for a little bit.
drofnavi said:
Give that belly pan (torque plate or what ever they call it) a good polish before you put it back on, I did mine and they look very smart.
Would have loved to, but I need the car back together to test it and make sure the old girl is running well, as I may be off on a bit of a trip, and rather than fire her up and then drive on a trip, I would rather run her for a few days.I bought this today ......
I have been reading about oil and viscosity (not sure about the spelling on that one), people have been saying to use a thicker oil such as a 5W or a 10W oil. What I have read and I am open to comment is that the 0W or 5W or 10W number is totally irrevelant to the engine at normal running temperature. That is initial viscosity is only related to the cranking of the engine down to Minus 18C etc.
The 50 number is the more viscose/thicker the oil is at normal running temp, so 40 up to 50 is only 1 grade thicker. The oil is expensive and we could get cheaper, but the Valvoline is some good stuff. Mobil1 make a 0W50 oil, but only being sold in USA, If anyone knows where I can get some that would be great.
I thought that the Mobil 10W60 was perhaps too thick at the moment, and only chose to go up 1 grade to the 50 stuff.
I would welcome any comments on this oil ......
IMHO that oil is definately the way to go, It will be very interesting to see what the engine sounds like on this and what your oil consumption is like.
I recently put some 15w 60 in an old Ford OHC Pinto engine, the hot oil pressure is excellent and it sounds very well on it, no cam noise etc, I have no idea what miles are on it(a lot I think)or when it was last done up. Originally it would have used a 20w 50. I'm also using this oil in my 5000 mile Harley and it seems fine as well, again it specifies a 20w 50.
I recently put some 15w 60 in an old Ford OHC Pinto engine, the hot oil pressure is excellent and it sounds very well on it, no cam noise etc, I have no idea what miles are on it(a lot I think)or when it was last done up. Originally it would have used a 20w 50. I'm also using this oil in my 5000 mile Harley and it seems fine as well, again it specifies a 20w 50.
Good news.
After all this work, that is flushing the engine oil. putting in new oil, then changing the lashes and Rockers on the drivers side, then putting in some 5W50 oil (and sorting out the oily air filters - but i do not believe that it was related)
The, "Engine", tick is defo gone. Some PH'ers will know I took the car on a 3k road test, and defo defo the engine tick is completely gone, the engine sounds just like it should. Of course I'm listening to the engine at a distance of 6 inches so I am very very aware of any noise. Like normal, you fire the old girl up, she claters like a tractor for about 10 - 15 seconds, then goes quiet, perfectly quiet. I expect some noise, as there are 48 valves bouncing about there, so it'll never been like a 1.3 Honda, is it ....?
The drive shaft tick is still there.
But wait ....! Whilst on the 3k road test, the tick went. I don't mean that it was more quiet, or it came and went, or only at certain times, or at tickover or above 1500rpm etc etc. When hitting the Autobahns and cruising at 130kmh. THE TICK WENT, AND WENT COMPLETELY.
Please please explain that one ...........?
Having returned to my fair city, within about 20 miles the tick has returned. I have not had a chance to test how loud or how long it will tick for. But the tick has returned whilst in the city.
So ........
The work on the engine has been 100% successful, it has truly worked
The driveshaft tick goes under motorway cruising, but returns in the city, (but does appear less at the mo), I am all ears as to what anyone thinks that could be ticking........
After all this work, that is flushing the engine oil. putting in new oil, then changing the lashes and Rockers on the drivers side, then putting in some 5W50 oil (and sorting out the oily air filters - but i do not believe that it was related)
The, "Engine", tick is defo gone. Some PH'ers will know I took the car on a 3k road test, and defo defo the engine tick is completely gone, the engine sounds just like it should. Of course I'm listening to the engine at a distance of 6 inches so I am very very aware of any noise. Like normal, you fire the old girl up, she claters like a tractor for about 10 - 15 seconds, then goes quiet, perfectly quiet. I expect some noise, as there are 48 valves bouncing about there, so it'll never been like a 1.3 Honda, is it ....?
The drive shaft tick is still there.
But wait ....! Whilst on the 3k road test, the tick went. I don't mean that it was more quiet, or it came and went, or only at certain times, or at tickover or above 1500rpm etc etc. When hitting the Autobahns and cruising at 130kmh. THE TICK WENT, AND WENT COMPLETELY.
Please please explain that one ...........?
Having returned to my fair city, within about 20 miles the tick has returned. I have not had a chance to test how loud or how long it will tick for. But the tick has returned whilst in the city.
So ........
The work on the engine has been 100% successful, it has truly worked
The driveshaft tick goes under motorway cruising, but returns in the city, (but does appear less at the mo), I am all ears as to what anyone thinks that could be ticking........
drofnavi said:
What's the news on the oil vapour catch tank part of this project?
Sorry, no, I have a load of photos of that, but am desperate for sleep. I'm driving to Les Deux Alpes in 24 hours time so am desperate to recover from the Scandavian trip, i will give a detailed answer to that one. So far the oil vent pipes are 100% successful 
i'll answer as soon as i can. Hello Boys.
The engine ticking noise is non existant, so bril but the ticking noise form the prop tunnel seems to be ever present and seems more loud. At tick over I can hear the noise, and when I put the car in Drive, then again the noise gets louder. The tick does go when I start to drive, but I can still hear it slightly, and see that a lot of the driving is in town the tick is quite previlant.
I've looked under the bonnet and the engine either masks the sound, but there is no tick from the top of the engine, it really really looks, or rather sounds, like the bell housing into the engine or the prop shaft tunnel.
Does anyone have any ideas, any ideas at all ............
The engine ticking noise is non existant, so bril
but the ticking noise form the prop tunnel seems to be ever present and seems more loud. At tick over I can hear the noise, and when I put the car in Drive, then again the noise gets louder. The tick does go when I start to drive, but I can still hear it slightly, and see that a lot of the driving is in town the tick is quite previlant.I've looked under the bonnet and the engine either masks the sound, but there is no tick from the top of the engine, it really really looks, or rather sounds, like the bell housing into the engine or the prop shaft tunnel.
Does anyone have any ideas, any ideas at all ............
Hello Tony, good to put a face to the name yesterday
Stereo, don't think I haven't thought about it, and when I do turn it on, the tick does go. The problem is I have a bit of a blast to do soon, and the tick is getting louder, and it must be something, so the last thing I want is the prop shaft dropping off in Berlin
PS - Your cars wicked
Stereo, don't think I haven't thought about it, and when I do turn it on, the tick does go. The problem is I have a bit of a blast to do soon, and the tick is getting louder, and it must be something, so the last thing I want is the prop shaft dropping off in Berlin
PS - Your cars wicked
I bought a DBS 2 months ago with only 3.000km . I feel identified with Maverick story. I hear an engine ticking noise but only between 2700-3000 rpm and when temperature is hot. I was in the AM dealer 2 weeks ago in Madrid. The 1st step was to change the oil (it was changed 1 month ago!!) , but just in case. They putted Castrol 0w30 , instead Mobil1 ow40 (the dealer says that AM recommends both). The noise continues at the same revolutions. The dealer recorded the noise and it was sent to the AM factory to be analyzed. Yesterday the dealer call me to take the car and follow some instructions from factory . In 2 weeks I will go to the dealer again,. lets see if we can fix it this time.
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