Discussion
Zod said:
mikey k said:
It could if the screen is a slightly different size to the old Volvo one 
Er, thanks, Mikey, but it isn't, is it? I guess they could use the same covers, though that may be too sensible
Edited by mikey k on Tuesday 26th February 12:47
yeti said:
mikey k said:
Well my Garmin is slightly more rectangular than my Volvo one
A rectangle cannot be 'more rectangular' than another, it is either an equiangular quadrilateral or it isn't.Euclidean geometry fail
/bored
you are bored 
To clarify the Garmin seems to me wider than the Volvo unit neither of which are equiangular
I guess a measurement of both and the covers is needed.
AMDBSNick said:
W1111AM said:
Hi guys, Glass Buttons: did I spot a thread recently where someone listed the AM part numbers for updating black plastic buttons to clear glass buttons. I did a search and could not find the thread listing them?
Will, speak to Ade Ok so far in my quest to do this myself, I have found out there are 3 ONLY clear buttons available to purchase from AML (ordered):
Parking
Traction Control
Rear Fog Light
Anyone improve on this AML part's research?
The plan now/next is to purchase (multiples) of the cheapest of the three clear switches and take the clear buttons out, print new black graphics to go on the back of the clear button and replace black button on my old switches with the new clear button. My buttons are:
Recycle Air (in the HVAC fascia)
A/C (in the HVAC fascia)
Hazzard Lights (in the HVAC fascia)
Front Heated Screen (in the gear surround fascia)
Rear Heated Screen (in the gear surround fascia)
Parking
Traction Control
Rear Fog Light
Anyone improve on this AML part's research?
The plan now/next is to purchase (multiples) of the cheapest of the three clear switches and take the clear buttons out, print new black graphics to go on the back of the clear button and replace black button on my old switches with the new clear button. My buttons are:
Recycle Air (in the HVAC fascia)
A/C (in the HVAC fascia)
Hazzard Lights (in the HVAC fascia)
Front Heated Screen (in the gear surround fascia)
Rear Heated Screen (in the gear surround fascia)
It's almost impossible to disassemble the glass switches without partially destroying the barrel. You can graft the rear of the shell from the original switch to the new one so the connector will match. You can also polish off the existing graphic and stencil in a new one if you want to go through the effort. I was going to do this and I ordered all the parts, but I wound up selling the car before I got around to it. I made sure to order glass switches on the new GT.
KarlFranz said:
It's almost impossible to disassemble the glass switches without partially destroying the barrel. You can graft the rear of the shell from the original switch to the new one so the connector will match. You can also polish off the existing graphic and stencil in a new one if you want to go through the effort. I was going to do this and I ordered all the parts, but I wound up selling the car before I got around to it. I made sure to order glass switches on the new GT.
Hi KFThanks for the warnings...
I found this link: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=5&a... scroll down to drivetheworld's images of the black button disassembled. This was my deconstruction plan for my black switches yes/no?
W1111AM said:
Hi KF
Thanks for the warnings...
I found this link: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=5&a... scroll down to drivetheworld's images of the black button disassembled. This was my deconstruction plan for my black switches yes/no?
LOL. You posted a link to this very thread. Thanks for the warnings...
I found this link: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=5&a... scroll down to drivetheworld's images of the black button disassembled. This was my deconstruction plan for my black switches yes/no?
Drivetheworld was the one who fist warned me about how difficult it was to take apart the switches because they are kind if glued together. I had a spare used black switch I practiced on and it was pretty tough (and I'm usually pretty good at taking things apart
). I haven't had the heart to take apart one of the glass switches yet although I'm thinking I might repurpose a blank one as a radar detector mute button. KarlFranz said:
W1111AM said:
Hi KF
Thanks for the warnings...
I found this link: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=5&a... scroll down to drivetheworld's images of the black button disassembled. This was my deconstruction plan for my black switches yes/no?
LOL. You posted a link to this very thread. Thanks for the warnings...
I found this link: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=5&a... scroll down to drivetheworld's images of the black button disassembled. This was my deconstruction plan for my black switches yes/no?
Drivetheworld was the one who fist warned me about how difficult it was to take apart the switches because they are kind if glued together. I had a spare used black switch I practiced on and it was pretty tough (and I'm usually pretty good at taking things apart
). I haven't had the heart to take apart one of the glass switches yet although I'm thinking I might repurpose a blank one as a radar detector mute button. keeping it all together...Are you thinking of taking a glass switch apart for your speed detector mute button, when would you try this?
I've disassembled loads of these now in order to rewire the internals. Even done glass ones. I can do it without damaging but I use some special tools and "hindsight"......
The barb that holds them together is located under the spring steel side clips. It's almost impossible to press down the barb from under the spring steel on both sides whilst simultaneously extracting the black connector part without compromising the part of the chrome barrel that holds the spring steel in place.
Take my advise.
Get some normal black buttons off fleabay or use your old ones. Take those black ones apart by sacrificing the black connector part, NOT the chrome barrel.
Take apart the glass ones by sacrificing the chrome barrel.
Reassemble carefully with the good parts from both. It's the only way to make sure of a good button that doesn't self destruct later.
The barb that holds them together is located under the spring steel side clips. It's almost impossible to press down the barb from under the spring steel on both sides whilst simultaneously extracting the black connector part without compromising the part of the chrome barrel that holds the spring steel in place.
Take my advise.
Get some normal black buttons off fleabay or use your old ones. Take those black ones apart by sacrificing the black connector part, NOT the chrome barrel.
Take apart the glass ones by sacrificing the chrome barrel.
Reassemble carefully with the good parts from both. It's the only way to make sure of a good button that doesn't self destruct later.
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