How do you adjust the brake light switch on a Vantage?

[Zegster]

Thanks again Herbs,

I poked my head into the footwell this morning and I could see the switch right infront of me. As my car is very low mileage so nothing gets much usage, I did try pressing the brake pedal multiple times and I noticed a marked improvement but not 100%. I will order the part tomorrow and change it anyway. Your encouragement has been brilliant, I usually choose the safe option not wanting to mess things up, but given the easy access it seems mad not to do it myself.

Out of interest what car do you have?

[Herbs]

Unfortunately sold it now as just bought another property but I had a N400 manual Roadster which I still miss. I had a standard v8v roadster sportshift previously and hope to get back in one someday.

I know what you mean about being brave, I am certainly no mechanic but that Jon was so easy.

Changing the battery on the other hand........

[Ml16204]

Hi everyone

So I bought a new brake light switch and changed it over in a matter of minutes as stated on this thread, the issue I have is now the car won't start, I put the old switch in and it starts fine, what am I doing wrong, it's a 2010 DB9 V12, thank you in advance for your help

Mick

[Astont8dbs]

Hi mick, The brake lights on my 2009 manual dbs have just started staying on unless pedal lifted, so have ordered a new brake light switch from Aston Martin bits.

Interested to know if you resolved your issue with the new switch.
Tony.

[mctaff]

can someone confirm how you get the switch out please... mine seems stuck?

it rotates anti clockwise a tiny bit, but won't then come out. I don't want to apply force as it feels stuck in place.

the two clip like bits on the side don't seem to be clipped into anything that I can see... but its all quite cramped and hard to seem much down there

Do I need to pull the clips outwards? squeeze them in?

if so, how? I can't seem to squeeze it with my hand (I can barely get my hand around the switch)... would be challenging to get any tools around the switch too...

[PatCub]

After a few trouble some days I have just worked out that my flat battery and the reluctance of the car to pull away from a stand still (Sportshift) is due to the brake light switch going out of adjustment.
As has been mentioned on this post before the switch is a Ford item that is self adjusting and once fitted cannot be reused. Not to be defeated I removed the switch and prised it apart.
The switch self adjusts once you insert it into its mounting slot and turn it to fit in the elongated hole.



This self adjustment is made by the black part shown which does not clear the slot when the switch is turned.



This is a collar which once turned engages a set of teeth with the plunger causing them to lock and act as one, so depending on how far the plunger gets pushed in dictates it's set position.





The collar cannot be reset from the outside but once it is dissembled it can be moved to its original position.
There are two sets of contacts, one for the brake lights normally open (top) and one for the cruise control normally closed (botom). Though they may reference each other as a backup.



When I refitted the switch I held the pedal down slightly to give a bit more clearance, do not over do this as it will cause a delay in the brake lights coming on once the brakes are applied and the cruise control wont turn off with a tap of the brake pedal.

I have a post on Facebook with video showing how small of a movement caused the brake lights to be on or off.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1428557477270816

Edited by PatCub on Sunday 21st March 17:29

[LTP]

That's a clever switch design

[SaltySeaDog121]

Mctaf - had the same problem as you trying to squeeze clips and remove switch simultaneously. I used cable tie to hold in clips.

I tried testing new switch by plugging in electrical connector and manually operating switch. It would not work until fully fitted into it's location where it somehow adjusts itself and activates electronics. I initially thought new switch was faulty!

[Chopdogs]

I had a faulty brake light switch recently and found this post useful. Thank you all. In the various forums/groups I’m in there seem to be quite a few cases. Perhaps a lack of driving over lockdown....?

[Autoelec]

They can be re used. To remove use the taper of a flat screw driver between the plunger and pedal. Slowly decreasing the distance with a light turning pressure on the switch. It will easily come out once the sweet spot is reached. They need to be shimmed when installing. 0.9 mm from memory.

[CharliesDB7]

Where do I find the break light switch on the 2000 DB7?

[John Rez]

Greetings from the US! I'm new here to PistonHeads, excited to learn more about my AM Vantage. Looking forward to chatting with you.

Love my baby. She's a 2010 AM V8 Vantage Roadster. Love her, she's beautiful, sleek, sexy and craves attention. She has the "sportshift" automated manual six speed paddle shifter trans. Not my favorite, but it is what it is.

I do have an issue with her.... inserting the glass key into the dash ignition slot and depressing does not always result in the ignition light turning red and cranking the engine. Sometimes it takes multiple tries. I suspect that the brake switch on the brake pedal needs adjusting or replacing as sometimes if i ease the pressure off the brake while inserting the glass key, the engine will crank.

Any suggestions as to what to look at to correct a intermittently cranking engine and red ignition light. I have replaced the watch battery in the key, and have installed a new vehicle 12V battery in the car as well. Car is on a battery tender to ensure full charge. And a voltmeter confirms that.

So please... Why is my baby not cranking every time the glass key is inserted into the ignition?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Best Regards, John

[LTP]

John Rez said:

Greetings from the US! I'm new here to PistonHeads, excited to learn more about my AM Vantage. Looking forward to chatting with you.

Love my baby. She's a 2010 AM V8 Vantage Roadster. Love her, she's beautiful, sleek, sexy and craves attention. She has the "sportshift" automated manual six speed paddle shifter trans. Not my favorite, but it is what it is.

I do have an issue with her.... inserting the glass key into the dash ignition slot and depressing does not always result in the ignition light turning red and cranking the engine. Sometimes it takes multiple tries. I suspect that the brake switch on the brake pedal needs adjusting or replacing as sometimes if i ease the pressure off the brake while inserting the glass key, the engine will crank.

Any suggestions as to what to look at to correct a intermittently cranking engine and red ignition light. I have replaced the watch battery in the key, and have installed a new vehicle 12V battery in the car as well. Car is on a battery tender to ensure full charge. And a voltmeter confirms that.

So please... Why is my baby not cranking every time the glass key is inserted into the ignition?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Best Regards, John

John,

All due respect and trying to help but you've added your question on the ECU and its dock to the end of an old thread on adjusting the brakelight switch

You're far more likely to get the help you need if you start a new thread with a subject something like "Intermittent cranking when ECU inserted into dock". Then paste in your above text.

You can then delete your post in this thread

[Manners79]

Had the "sticky on brake light" fault on mine recently. Main dealer quoted £150 just to supply the part. I got the same part for £12 from a 3rd party supplier (even labelled with the same part number). Just be a bit careful when fitting as you only really get one shot at it as there is a lug designed to break off as part of the process of it adjusting into place.