Fuse 22 remote switch fitted.
Discussion
Fitted my remote switch today, using the Logisys RM02, £12 from ebay. I know that most say just leave the fuse out, but I like little projects like this 
An alternative method is to hardwire a switch, but that will involve running wires which is not a big deal, but this method is very easy to install.
I had originally planned to wire it so that the default at start-up was valves operational, you would need an NC relay and a bit of extra wiring to do that, as the remote output switches back to zero volts when the IGN is switched off. However, after running with no fuse for a while, I’ve decided to go the more conventional route of default off, I can then switch the valves back on for stealth mode or just to exercise them occasionally.
You need the RM02 switch which comes with two remotes, and a full size fuse add-a-circuit. This goes into the fuse box in the boot. I’ve put a 15A fuse in there for now, which replaces the original 20A fuse 22 on my 2010 V8V.
The unit with all the wiring complete, the Black wires go to a suitable earth point, I used one of the fuse box mounting bolts. Don’t worry I placed it very carefully on the bonnet for the photo
Add-a-circuit in place, the White wire (return power) goes into the lower right hand fuse slot on the add-a-circuit. You will need to trim a standard male crimp connector to fit.
Wiring run to the rear of the fuse box, I cut a small slot in the lid to allow it to be refitted. The remote unit is tucked up behind the carpet trim.
The remote neatly slots into the arm rest, job done.
An alternative method is to hardwire a switch, but that will involve running wires which is not a big deal, but this method is very easy to install.
I had originally planned to wire it so that the default at start-up was valves operational, you would need an NC relay and a bit of extra wiring to do that, as the remote output switches back to zero volts when the IGN is switched off. However, after running with no fuse for a while, I’ve decided to go the more conventional route of default off, I can then switch the valves back on for stealth mode or just to exercise them occasionally.
You need the RM02 switch which comes with two remotes, and a full size fuse add-a-circuit. This goes into the fuse box in the boot. I’ve put a 15A fuse in there for now, which replaces the original 20A fuse 22 on my 2010 V8V.
The unit with all the wiring complete, the Black wires go to a suitable earth point, I used one of the fuse box mounting bolts. Don’t worry I placed it very carefully on the bonnet for the photo
Add-a-circuit in place, the White wire (return power) goes into the lower right hand fuse slot on the add-a-circuit. You will need to trim a standard male crimp connector to fit.
Wiring run to the rear of the fuse box, I cut a small slot in the lid to allow it to be refitted. The remote unit is tucked up behind the carpet trim.
The remote neatly slots into the arm rest, job done.
Triple5, love the idea and the write up is bril. Is there a kit that does this, for us people that are not electrically minded it looks complicated. If there was a plug and play kit, that would be bril. When I'm driving around the city, I like to hear the exhaust etc, when its a long journey, you (I) couldn't stand the noise of a howling exhaust hour after hour.
Is there some sort of kit?
Is there some sort of kit?
Thanks all
Maverick, it's very easy, all the parts are from ebay, my remote unit shipped from the USA without any problems. Just attach the Red/White and ground wires as above and that's it. The hardest part is cutting the slot in the lid of the fuse box.
I've attached a wiring diagram to help, although note in this picture the White wire is just pushed into the add-a-circuit for the pic. Blue wire is the antenna.
Allan
Maverick, it's very easy, all the parts are from ebay, my remote unit shipped from the USA without any problems. Just attach the Red/White and ground wires as above and that's it. The hardest part is cutting the slot in the lid of the fuse box.
I've attached a wiring diagram to help, although note in this picture the White wire is just pushed into the add-a-circuit for the pic. Blue wire is the antenna.
Allan
Thanks for the excellent write up, very interesting mod.
Is the fuse box shown in the photos from a V8 Vantage Roadster?
I have a V8VR and am interested in doing this mod.
Sorry for my ignorance but is my interpretation of your mod as follows correct?
When the car is started the remote switch is "open" ie equivalent to the fuse 22 out, this is the standard modification setup and when the remote control is blipped the remote switch goes to a closed state ie fuse in.
So standard setup is always equivalent of the fuse out.
The remote switch units only seem to be available as shipped from the USA on eBay?
Is the other option you mention on your write up much more complicated to wire?
This would be my preferred option
Ie standard setup is equivalent of the fuse in and the remote control switch is only used to launch theV8 "symphony" when required
Cheers
Alan
Is the fuse box shown in the photos from a V8 Vantage Roadster?
I have a V8VR and am interested in doing this mod.
Sorry for my ignorance but is my interpretation of your mod as follows correct?
When the car is started the remote switch is "open" ie equivalent to the fuse 22 out, this is the standard modification setup and when the remote control is blipped the remote switch goes to a closed state ie fuse in.
So standard setup is always equivalent of the fuse out.
The remote switch units only seem to be available as shipped from the USA on eBay?
Is the other option you mention on your write up much more complicated to wire?
This would be my preferred option
Ie standard setup is equivalent of the fuse in and the remote control switch is only used to launch theV8 "symphony" when required
Cheers
Alan
Beoon said:
Thanks for the excellent write up, very interesting mod.
Is the fuse box shown in the photos from a V8 Vantage Roadster?
I have a V8VR and am interested in doing this mod.
Sorry for my ignorance but is my interpretation of your mod as follows correct?
When the car is started the remote switch is "open" ie equivalent to the fuse 22 out, this is the standard modification setup and when the remote control is blipped the remote switch goes to a closed state ie fuse in.
So standard setup is always equivalent of the fuse out.
The remote switch units only seem to be available as shipped from the USA on eBay?
Is the other option you mention on your write up much more complicated to wire?
This would be my preferred option
Ie standard setup is equivalent of the fuse in and the remote control switch is only used to launch theV8 "symphony" when required
Cheers
Alan
Hi Alan,Is the fuse box shown in the photos from a V8 Vantage Roadster?
I have a V8VR and am interested in doing this mod.
Sorry for my ignorance but is my interpretation of your mod as follows correct?
When the car is started the remote switch is "open" ie equivalent to the fuse 22 out, this is the standard modification setup and when the remote control is blipped the remote switch goes to a closed state ie fuse in.
So standard setup is always equivalent of the fuse out.
The remote switch units only seem to be available as shipped from the USA on eBay?
Is the other option you mention on your write up much more complicated to wire?
This would be my preferred option
Ie standard setup is equivalent of the fuse in and the remote control switch is only used to launch theV8 "symphony" when required
Cheers
Alan
Mine is a V8V coupe, I don’t know if the Roadster box looks the same. I've only seen this kit in the USA, it does appear to be well made and the remotes do not look cheap like some.
Yes your interpretation is correct, default with the above is valves inoperable or “fuse out”. A lot of Corvette owners in the USA use this kit and they all use it the same way, in fact I couldn’t find anybody who has wired it the other way round.
I’ve drawn up a circuit which should work, although I must add I’ve not actually tried it, I would check it out with a meter before plugging it into the car. You will need a 5 pin relay also called a changeover relay, and use the NC contacts pins 30 and 87A. You will also need a second in-line fuse holder for the power to the relay.
When you start-up the circuit is still made or equivalent to “fuse in”, so the valves will operate normally, when you press ON, the switch will provide power via the White wire which will energise the coil and break the circuit, valves will be off.
Thank you Allan for posting. It is certainly a very neat way of controlling the valves.
I was just puzzled by your use of a 15 amp fuse, in place of the original 20 amp.
Was it simply that you had removed the original some time ago, and only had a 15 amp available to use?
A minor point, but I just wondered if there was an electrical reason for using the 15A.
Jon39 said:
Thank you Allan for posting. It is certainly a very neat way of controlling the valves.
I was just puzzled by your use of a 15 amp fuse, in place of the original 20 amp.
Was it simply that you had removed the original some time ago, and only had a 15 amp available to use?
A minor point, but I just wondered if there was an electrical reason for using the 15A.
Thanks Jon. I was just puzzled by your use of a 15 amp fuse, in place of the original 20 amp.
Was it simply that you had removed the original some time ago, and only had a 15 amp available to use?
A minor point, but I just wondered if there was an electrical reason for using the 15A.
The RM02 is rated at 15A (switching current), so no point in fitting a higher rated fuse. If the fuse blows then that means the RM02 is not up to job, I don't expect that to happen.
triple5 said:
Thanks Jon.
The RM02 is rated at 15A (switching current), so no point in fitting a higher rated fuse. If the fuse blows then that means the RM02 is not up to job, I don't expect that to happen.
You only need one 15A fuse...just move it to the other side of the node. As you have drawn it, you could draw a total of 30A from the circuit; not advisable when the original circuit is fused for 20A.The RM02 is rated at 15A (switching current), so no point in fitting a higher rated fuse. If the fuse blows then that means the RM02 is not up to job, I don't expect that to happen.
DB9VolanteDriver said:
You only need one 15A fuse...just move it to the other side of the node. As you have drawn it, you could draw a total of 30A from the circuit; not advisable when the original circuit is fused for 20A.
Not sure I agree as the RM02 will effectively be unfused. However, it has made me take another look and would suggest lowering the fuse rating for the RM02. In this configuration the RM02 will not be drawing hardly any current as the relay will be doing all the work. I’ll update the drawing later, thanks.
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