Which oil for Aston Martin V12
Discussion
yeti said:
I fear the OP will simply ignore you though and do what he thinks is best...
Not necessarily, I think I would be a fool to ignore sound advice, peoples comments are one thing, peoples specialist profession is another.opieoilman said:
I would be looking at a 5w-40
Oilman, may I ask if the 0-40 is because you are following the Aston Martin manual? When I look at the manual I see a graph of all different oils viscosities, and wonder why they put them there if their cover-all advice is 0w-40.I ask this because brakewell posted your results (thanks brakewell) and I see there that you recommend 10.4 litres of oil, we know the Dip Stick has been changed and we now put in 12 litres of oil. Hence I'm wondering if you are following standard OEM recommendations?
SS972 said:
,was thinking to switch to 10w60, your thoughs?
In theory, all engines run at the same temperature. If you're in the Arctic, your thermostat will warm your engine and it should run at OEM running temp, if you're in the Sahara, then your engine should also run at OEM. The only difference is the cold cranking temperature. Obvioulsy with -70C or +50C, the cold cranking issue is dramatically different. In essence, in the Sahara you could use Treacle as oil, because its so hot, it'll be thin, in the Acrtic, you will need water thin oil because its freezing.Please correct me if I am wrong, but the first number of the oil viscosity relates only to cold cranking, so in Spain 10W would be fine. Indeed in England 10W would (unless extreme weather) be absolutely fine, the higher number (60) relates to the normal operating viscosity.
From what I can gather the difference between 40 or 50 or 60 is so marginal as to make almost no difference.
I have also read that oil degrades very quickly (Synthetic oils less so than Mineral), so a 40 grade oil will degenerate to a 30 grade over time, and so no ......
It would be good to hear from others like Bamford Rose and Generation AMR. Both engineers are into engine development, one racing cars and others making road rockets ........ so it would be good to hear both views ....?
MaverickV12 said:
I ask this because brakewell posted your results (thanks brakewell) and I see there that you recommend 10.4 litres of oil, we know the Dip Stick has been changed and we now put in 12 litres of oil. Hence I'm wondering if you are following standard OEM recommendations?
FYI, brakedwell's quote comes from the Castrol website, NOT from Oil Man/Opie Oils.Since most Aston's have their oil changed every 6 - 12 months, I doubt any oil will degrade enough to actually warrant a change based on condition.
The exception to this is a daily driver that is driven hard or a tracked car.
For mediocre / average use and certainly the miles most Aston's see, almost any of the off the shelf oils will be fine (fully synthetic between 0W and 60 grades)
Most Aston's don't see the winter roads and therefore the winter cold starts are not an issue to many.
For those who use their cars a lot and do a lot of cold starting, I think a pre-oiler is a far better choice than splitting hairs between oil grades.
Pre-pressurising the lashes and oiling the top the end in my mind would be infinitely more beneficial than changing a grade or two in oil.
There are 4 points on the back of the heads that can be used to inject pre-start oil to the lash galleries. when doing an oil change with a system fitted simply calculate the extra oil required to prime the reservoir.
Personally that cold start rasp when the engine first fires up before the oil gets up there always makes me cringe.
The exception to this is a daily driver that is driven hard or a tracked car.
For mediocre / average use and certainly the miles most Aston's see, almost any of the off the shelf oils will be fine (fully synthetic between 0W and 60 grades)
Most Aston's don't see the winter roads and therefore the winter cold starts are not an issue to many.
For those who use their cars a lot and do a lot of cold starting, I think a pre-oiler is a far better choice than splitting hairs between oil grades.
Pre-pressurising the lashes and oiling the top the end in my mind would be infinitely more beneficial than changing a grade or two in oil.
There are 4 points on the back of the heads that can be used to inject pre-start oil to the lash galleries. when doing an oil change with a system fitted simply calculate the extra oil required to prime the reservoir.
Personally that cold start rasp when the engine first fires up before the oil gets up there always makes me cringe.
GTDB7 said:
Personally that cold start rasp when the engine first fires up before the oil gets up there always makes me cringe.
I know what you mean, mine sounds like a tractor for about 30 seconds 
(well only if I lift the bonnet and look and listen)Any news on when a pre-oiler might be available ?
MaverickV12 said:
I know what you mean, mine sounds like a tractor for about 30 seconds (well only if I lift the bonnet and look and listen)
Any news on when a pre-oiler might be available ?
Not if you use the start procedure that is in the manual to get the oil pressure up prior to firing the engine. (well only if I lift the bonnet and look and listen)Any news on when a pre-oiler might be available ?
A 0w-40 is preferable to a 5w-40, which is preferable to a 10w-40. Why?
All of these have the same viscosity at 100C, but the 0w has a lower viscosity (good) than the 5w or 10w at 40C. This means that it has a flatter viscosity curve. A flatter viscosity curve is better since as temperature increases beyond 100C (in the motor), the oil with the flatter viscosity curve will drop less precipitously than the others.
The ideal oil, if it could be obtained, would be one with a completely flat viscosity line (no change with temperature), so your oil would pump more easily at cold (and thereby lubricate the upper end quicker), and would not degrade (viscosity wise) as temperature increases. But you can't have a straight line oil, so the flatter the curve the closer it comes to this ideal.
All of these have the same viscosity at 100C, but the 0w has a lower viscosity (good) than the 5w or 10w at 40C. This means that it has a flatter viscosity curve. A flatter viscosity curve is better since as temperature increases beyond 100C (in the motor), the oil with the flatter viscosity curve will drop less precipitously than the others.
The ideal oil, if it could be obtained, would be one with a completely flat viscosity line (no change with temperature), so your oil would pump more easily at cold (and thereby lubricate the upper end quicker), and would not degrade (viscosity wise) as temperature increases. But you can't have a straight line oil, so the flatter the curve the closer it comes to this ideal.
Have been reading a few articles and found these .......
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/preferred-oi...
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/engine-oil-r...
Are our American Cousins told to use different oils than we are? And / or are the Franchise dealers also BMW dealers? I sometimes wonder (if they are BMW dealers as well) if they are all using one type of oil {10w-60} because its cost effective to only hold one type of oil.
Could our Colonial cousins comment .........
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/preferred-oi...
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/engine-oil-r...
Are our American Cousins told to use different oils than we are? And / or are the Franchise dealers also BMW dealers? I sometimes wonder (if they are BMW dealers as well) if they are all using one type of oil {10w-60} because its cost effective to only hold one type of oil.
Could our Colonial cousins comment .........
Maverick,
My dealer here in Canada uses full synthetic Mobil 1 0W40 per the owner manual. Works for me.
Be very skeptical about most of the advice on astonmartinlife.com -- it always strikes me as the forum for those that can't find the more mainstream Aston forums like PH, amoc or even 6speedonline. A very few knowledgeable contributors surrounded by lot's of confusion and misinformation.
My dealer here in Canada uses full synthetic Mobil 1 0W40 per the owner manual. Works for me.
Be very skeptical about most of the advice on astonmartinlife.com -- it always strikes me as the forum for those that can't find the more mainstream Aston forums like PH, amoc or even 6speedonline. A very few knowledgeable contributors surrounded by lot's of confusion and misinformation.
MaverickV12 said:
Have been reading a few articles and found these .......
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/preferred-oi...
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/engine-oil-r...
Are our American Cousins told to use different oils than we are? And / or are the Franchise dealers also BMW dealers? I sometimes wonder (if they are BMW dealers as well) if they are all using one type of oil {10w-60} because its cost effective to only hold one type of oil.
Could our Colonial cousins comment .........
V12 owners do not use 10w-60, that's for v8 motors only. We use the stuff called for in the owners manual...0w-40 Mobil 1 (or in a pinch Castrol Syntec). It's all very simple, really. Use the widest range oil you can to better control the viscosity vs temperature curve. if someone suggests that a 10w-40 is better for hot weather use than a 0w-40, they don't really understand what multi-viscosity means.http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/preferred-oi...
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/engine-oil-r...
Are our American Cousins told to use different oils than we are? And / or are the Franchise dealers also BMW dealers? I sometimes wonder (if they are BMW dealers as well) if they are all using one type of oil {10w-60} because its cost effective to only hold one type of oil.
Could our Colonial cousins comment .........
Luna, DB9Volate - TBH, I am very much coming back to the OEM spec of 0W-40 or a slight change to 0W-50 (or 5W-50 in this country). It would appear that brand newly designed engines are going the way of thinner and thinner oils. With 0W-10 mentioned (newly designed engines) apparently it saves a lot of fuel.
I think if my engine was on 100k, and breathing heavy etc then I don't think I'd hesitate to use 10W-60, if the engine were on its last legs, what is there to lose!
I remember talking to Bruce at Bamford Rose a few weeks ago about oil consumption and he said that they tend to use oil because the engine has never worked hard when they were new (and if I recall right) he said the piston bores get polished. My memory is hazey so I apologise if I got the explaination wrong.
I remember in my old days of Cortinas and Cavaliers we used to use GTX which was 20W-50, that was almost state of the art oil in the day, but then the old Ford Pinto engine (whilst great for the day) cannot be compared to engine design in present day.
If we put high mileage engines to one side, so no 10W-60, then this leaves 0W-40 and 5W-50. I'm presently using 5W-50 and to me it seems fine.
Is anyone else using 5W-50 oil or similar?
I think if my engine was on 100k, and breathing heavy etc then I don't think I'd hesitate to use 10W-60, if the engine were on its last legs, what is there to lose!
I remember talking to Bruce at Bamford Rose a few weeks ago about oil consumption and he said that they tend to use oil because the engine has never worked hard when they were new (and if I recall right) he said the piston bores get polished. My memory is hazey so I apologise if I got the explaination wrong.
I remember in my old days of Cortinas and Cavaliers we used to use GTX which was 20W-50, that was almost state of the art oil in the day, but then the old Ford Pinto engine (whilst great for the day) cannot be compared to engine design in present day.
If we put high mileage engines to one side, so no 10W-60, then this leaves 0W-40 and 5W-50. I'm presently using 5W-50 and to me it seems fine.
Is anyone else using 5W-50 oil or similar?
yvr said:
contributors surrounded by lot's of confusion and misinformation.
Certain threads are becoming like this on here as well.Some poor sod will google this and think 'hmm, maybe I'll just put chip pan oil in or Halfords cheap s
t, the handbook must of course be wrong and a random poster on a random forum must be right'.PUT IN THE STUFF IT SAYS IN THE HANDBOOK!!!
Even the guy with no connection to AML who sells oil for a living recommended it
peterr96 said:
Given that we've got to the bottom of oil viscosity, shall we discuss the merits of different wheel nut torque settings now?
I always like to tighten mine to twice what it says in the manual, just to be on the safe side.
I also heard that you clench your buttocks and use them to tighten to the correct torque first. Is that true or just another Aston myth?I always like to tighten mine to twice what it says in the manual, just to be on the safe side.
AMDBSNick said:
peterr96 said:
Given that we've got to the bottom of oil viscosity, shall we discuss the merits of different wheel nut torque settings now?
I always like to tighten mine to twice what it says in the manual, just to be on the safe side.
I always like to tighten mine to twice what it says in the manual, just to be on the safe side.
Cockernee
So does the Mrs 
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