So what have you done with your Aston today?
Discussion
whoami said:
On your V12V?
Yup. Took it in for a service and asked them to look into the top gear whine. It was only slight but noticeable. They got in touch with Gaydon and diagnosed a new gearbox. No hassle, no quibble. They ordered a new one and put it in.
Tom in the service dept. was awfully kind and arranged for me to lend a Rapide S while it was in.
divetheworld said:
whoami said:
On your V12V?
Yup. Took it in for a service and asked them to look into the top gear whine. It was only slight but noticeable. They got in touch with Gaydon and diagnosed a new gearbox. No hassle, no quibble. They ordered a new one and put it in.
Tom in the service dept. was awfully kind and arranged for me to lend a Rapide S while it was in.
Sounded like the whine from a supercharger.
whoami said:
Mine was like this from new.
Sounded like the whine from a supercharger.
Pretty much just like that, only in top. They did it all under warranty. Strats in Wilmslow recorded the sound, uploaded to Gaydon and had a new box ordered the same day.Sounded like the whine from a supercharger.
Glad it's got the factory warranty!
divetheworld said:
It has the Premium Alpine system.
Once you have the door card off (5mm allen key and T25 torx driver) you will see the door speaker units. The carrier is a steel frame that the moulded speaker assembly is fitted to.
Removing the carrier and then separating the speaker from the carrier is simple. You dont have to do much modification to get a component setup to fit directly in the carrier. Possibly a little bit of filing and 10mm spacers to get a large magnet set in.
The issue you are left with is the speaker is not baffled from the interior properly and is in free air. This cuts the mid bass response somewhat. You simply use some of the dynamat to seal round the speaker and some self-adhesive foam weather strip to make a front baffle and seal it to the door skin. You just need to isolate the front of the speakers (inside the cabin) from the cavity of the door (outside the car). Hell, duck tape and card could do that.
The idea is that the speaker must create a pressure wave inside the cabin and not escape round the speaker back into the door cavity. Easy!
All the other drivers are done the same way except the centre speaker. That's a drop in co-axial unit.
If you look at the premium (Alpine) speakers, they use a simple capacitor as the high frequency cut off crossover and paper cones. Using composite cone speakers and a silk dome tweeter makes a much more vibrant and smooth sound. Couple that with a decent crossover and you can see how it makes a difference straight away.
Not a pic of the finished door but I found this to illustrate the job. Once you have the door card off (5mm allen key and T25 torx driver) you will see the door speaker units. The carrier is a steel frame that the moulded speaker assembly is fitted to.
Removing the carrier and then separating the speaker from the carrier is simple. You dont have to do much modification to get a component setup to fit directly in the carrier. Possibly a little bit of filing and 10mm spacers to get a large magnet set in.
The issue you are left with is the speaker is not baffled from the interior properly and is in free air. This cuts the mid bass response somewhat. You simply use some of the dynamat to seal round the speaker and some self-adhesive foam weather strip to make a front baffle and seal it to the door skin. You just need to isolate the front of the speakers (inside the cabin) from the cavity of the door (outside the car). Hell, duck tape and card could do that.
The idea is that the speaker must create a pressure wave inside the cabin and not escape round the speaker back into the door cavity. Easy!
All the other drivers are done the same way except the centre speaker. That's a drop in co-axial unit.
If you look at the premium (Alpine) speakers, they use a simple capacitor as the high frequency cut off crossover and paper cones. Using composite cone speakers and a silk dome tweeter makes a much more vibrant and smooth sound. Couple that with a decent crossover and you can see how it makes a difference straight away.
divetheworld said:
Pretty much just like that, only in top. They did it all under warranty. Strats in Wilmslow recorded the sound, uploaded to Gaydon and had a new box ordered the same day.
Glad it's got the factory warranty!
I bet! Glad it's got the factory warranty!
Great service.
Mines been in for quite a bit of warranty work of late and again it's all been replaced without any issues.
Makes me wonder if I should carry on with the warranty when it runs out in December?
northernmedia said:
I bet!
Great service.
Mines been in for quite a bit of warranty work of late and again it's all been replaced without any issues.
Makes me wonder if I should carry on with the warranty when it runs out in December?
As you can imagine it's a no brainier for me. I've just paid two years premium today to start in July. Saves a couple of hundred but I don't see it being changed for at least a year or two. Great service.
Mines been in for quite a bit of warranty work of late and again it's all been replaced without any issues.
Makes me wonder if I should carry on with the warranty when it runs out in December?
1700pa or 3200 for two.
As one of our customers tell us about some of their more aggressive kit "better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it"
I only ever bet on a sure thing.
I had already had the drill holes done when I put my short plate on but now Ive had the square holes filled too.
And a few little nicks in my bonnet lipsick also done before the Xpel goes on next Thursday at Signature Group Staffs.
Sorted...
My tow eye plate thingy has'nt arrived from USA yet so Ive joined the no front plate brigade for a few days.
I had the V12 badges done too...
divetheworld said:
northernmedia said:
I bet!
Great service.
Mines been in for quite a bit of warranty work of late and again it's all been replaced without any issues.
Makes me wonder if I should carry on with the warranty when it runs out in December?
As you can imagine it's a no brainier for me. I've just paid two years premium today to start in July. Saves a couple of hundred but I don't see it being changed for at least a year or two. Great service.
Mines been in for quite a bit of warranty work of late and again it's all been replaced without any issues.
Makes me wonder if I should carry on with the warranty when it runs out in December?
1700pa or 3200 for two.
As one of our customers tell us about some of their more aggressive kit "better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it"
I only ever bet on a sure thing.
I'll mull that over I think.
Flugplatz said:
I had already had the drill holes done when I put my short plate on but now Ive had the square holes filled too.
And a few little nicks in my bonnet lipsick also done before the Xpel goes on next Thursday at Signature Group Staffs.
Sorted...
My tow eye plate thingy has'nt arrived from USA yet so Ive joined the no front plate brigade for a few days.
I had the V12 badges done too...
Are you able to share what it cost?
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