By pass switch on a V12
Discussion
8Tech said:
I'm not sure if I am misunderstanding here, but if just the removal of the fuse 22 activates the flap open, then I dont see how it can be so difficult to install a simple on-off switch between the terminals of fuse 22 in the fusebox, but keeping the fuse in the circuit in series for safety. This can be done in seconds for far less than a tenner.
How on gods earth are people quoting hundreds of pounds to do this? I am missing a part of the puzzle here?
Unless we are running cables right through the car to switch it from the cabin, or using some remote control system to activate, or rather, deactivate it, it just could not be simpler.
8Tech.
The more intelligent solution is a switch hidden behind void at bottom of A-pillar behind trim / in front of carpet. Can not be seen and is in reach when driving if fitted in this position.How on gods earth are people quoting hundreds of pounds to do this? I am missing a part of the puzzle here?
Unless we are running cables right through the car to switch it from the cabin, or using some remote control system to activate, or rather, deactivate it, it just could not be simpler.
8Tech.
The wires go about 30cm to body control module.
For about 2 years now we have been fitting this FOC to PH members in return for donation to Help For Heros
BamfordMike said:
The more intelligent solution is a switch hidden behind void at bottom of A-pillar behind trim / in front of carpet. Can not be seen and is in reach when driving if fitted in this position.
The wires go about 30cm to body control module.
For about 2 years now we have been fitting this FOC to PH members in return for donation to Help For Heros
^^^^^ this ^^^^^ The wires go about 30cm to body control module.
For about 2 years now we have been fitting this FOC to PH members in return for donation to Help For Heros
I did something completely different to the hidden 2 position switch.
I took a normal Aston button which are momentary action and disassembled it. I modified the circuit board to provide the 6 pins with separate functions rather than the multiplexed format it originally had for the CAN/other interface. This gave me 2 pins for the red light, 2 pins for night illumination and 2 pins for the switch.
I actually used a "Sport" switch. The pic below was a spare switch I got to experiment with.
I bought this remote purely for the reliable conversion of momentary action to latched.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/single-channel-wireless-re...
The output of the module was wired to the boot to a 20A single pole relay that brings in fuse 22 or leaves it open circuit. This relay is single pole changeover, I used the normally closed contacts. The same latched 12v output was put onto the Sport switch red LED to indicate it is active.
The remote is 12v power so its battery was removed and the contacts wired to the back of the 12v auxiliary socket as it is ignition switched. The push button on the remote was removed/desoldered and the two pins from the Sport switch was connected instead.
I then replaced the airbag light with the new switch. Actually, I didn't disconnect it or anything, just hid it behind the console.
The switch was paralleled into the night illumination circuit and that completed the job.
Now I have a Sport switch that works exactly like OEM and opens the exhaust valves. I'd take a picture but I think you all know what the Sport button looks like in the center console and I cant be arsed to go to the garage......
Price - One Aston Sport switch, one 20A 12v single pole double acting relay and a £35 remote kit.
Oh, and about 3 hrs work.
I took a normal Aston button which are momentary action and disassembled it. I modified the circuit board to provide the 6 pins with separate functions rather than the multiplexed format it originally had for the CAN/other interface. This gave me 2 pins for the red light, 2 pins for night illumination and 2 pins for the switch.
I actually used a "Sport" switch. The pic below was a spare switch I got to experiment with.
I bought this remote purely for the reliable conversion of momentary action to latched.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/single-channel-wireless-re...
The output of the module was wired to the boot to a 20A single pole relay that brings in fuse 22 or leaves it open circuit. This relay is single pole changeover, I used the normally closed contacts. The same latched 12v output was put onto the Sport switch red LED to indicate it is active.
The remote is 12v power so its battery was removed and the contacts wired to the back of the 12v auxiliary socket as it is ignition switched. The push button on the remote was removed/desoldered and the two pins from the Sport switch was connected instead.
I then replaced the airbag light with the new switch. Actually, I didn't disconnect it or anything, just hid it behind the console.
The switch was paralleled into the night illumination circuit and that completed the job.
Now I have a Sport switch that works exactly like OEM and opens the exhaust valves. I'd take a picture but I think you all know what the Sport button looks like in the center console and I cant be arsed to go to the garage......
Price - One Aston Sport switch, one 20A 12v single pole double acting relay and a £35 remote kit.
Oh, and about 3 hrs work.
Edited by divetheworld on Sunday 20th October 19:30
Edited by divetheworld on Sunday 20th October 19:31
Edited by divetheworld on Sunday 20th October 19:32
divetheworld said:
I did something completely different to the hidden 2 position switch.
I took a normal Aston button which are momentary action and disassembled it. I modified the circuit board to provide the 6 pins with separate functions rather than the multiplexed format it originally had for the CAN/other interface. This gave me 2 pins for the red light, 2 pins for night illumination and 2 pins for the switch.
I actually used a "Sport" switch. The pic below was a spare switch I got to experiment with.
I bought this remote purely for the reliable conversion of momentary action to latched.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/single-channel-wireless-re...
The output of the module was wired to the boot to a 20A single pole relay that brings in fuse 22 or leaves it open circuit. This relay is single pole changeover, I used the normally closed contacts. The same latched 12v output was put onto the Sport switch red LED to indicate it is active.
The remote is 12v power so its battery was removed and the contacts wired to the back of the 12v auxiliary socket as it is ignition switched. The push button on the remote was removed/desoldered and the two pins from the Sport switch was connected instead.
I then replaced the airbag light with the new switch. Actually, I didn't disconnect it or anything, just hid it behind the console.
The switch was paralleled into the night illumination circuit and that completed the job.
Now I have a Sport switch that works exactly like OEM and opens the exhaust valves. I'd take a picture but I think you all know what the Sport button looks like in the center console and I cant be arsed to go to the garage......
Price - One Aston Sport switch, one 20A 12v single pole double acting relay and a £35 remote kit.
Oh, and about 3 hrs work.
Well done, yeah, this is a good solution isn't it. I took a normal Aston button which are momentary action and disassembled it. I modified the circuit board to provide the 6 pins with separate functions rather than the multiplexed format it originally had for the CAN/other interface. This gave me 2 pins for the red light, 2 pins for night illumination and 2 pins for the switch.
I actually used a "Sport" switch. The pic below was a spare switch I got to experiment with.
I bought this remote purely for the reliable conversion of momentary action to latched.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/single-channel-wireless-re...
The output of the module was wired to the boot to a 20A single pole relay that brings in fuse 22 or leaves it open circuit. This relay is single pole changeover, I used the normally closed contacts. The same latched 12v output was put onto the Sport switch red LED to indicate it is active.
The remote is 12v power so its battery was removed and the contacts wired to the back of the 12v auxiliary socket as it is ignition switched. The push button on the remote was removed/desoldered and the two pins from the Sport switch was connected instead.
I then replaced the airbag light with the new switch. Actually, I didn't disconnect it or anything, just hid it behind the console.
The switch was paralleled into the night illumination circuit and that completed the job.
Now I have a Sport switch that works exactly like OEM and opens the exhaust valves. I'd take a picture but I think you all know what the Sport button looks like in the center console and I cant be arsed to go to the garage......
Price - One Aston Sport switch, one 20A 12v single pole double acting relay and a £35 remote kit.
Oh, and about 3 hrs work.
Edited by divetheworld on Sunday 20th October 19:30
Edited by divetheworld on Sunday 20th October 19:31
Edited by divetheworld on Sunday 20th October 19:32
On project cars we often do this, Yeti had this about a year and a half ago.
The glass sport button looks great and if done at same time as upgrade to glass buttons from plastic it really freshens the interior too
Had it sorted today!!
I was right the pump had stopped working due to a corroded wire.
Stratstone sorted it they also fitted a inline fuse for extra safety and all FOC
Wow it's so quiet now until you hit the button then back to the sound I'm used to.
You can here a buzzing noise near the rear wheels that I haven't noticed before.
Happy bunny now
I was right the pump had stopped working due to a corroded wire.
Stratstone sorted it they also fitted a inline fuse for extra safety and all FOC
Wow it's so quiet now until you hit the button then back to the sound I'm used to.
You can here a buzzing noise near the rear wheels that I haven't noticed before.
Happy bunny now
V8 Animal said:
Had it sorted today!!
I was right the pump had stopped working due to a corroded wire.
Stratstone sorted it they also fitted a inline fuse for extra safety and all FOC
Wow it's so quiet now until you hit the button then back to the sound I'm used to.
You can here a buzzing noise near the rear wheels that I haven't noticed before.
Happy bunny now
You fitted the remote then?I was right the pump had stopped working due to a corroded wire.
Stratstone sorted it they also fitted a inline fuse for extra safety and all FOC
Wow it's so quiet now until you hit the button then back to the sound I'm used to.
You can here a buzzing noise near the rear wheels that I haven't noticed before.
Happy bunny now
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