Polishing mops
Discussion
Laser Sag said:
It might be the most basic lesson as far as you are concerned but I would have to say your teaching method comes across as a bit arogant, sure you aren't but that is the impression from posts.
Teaching methods vary and I have to say that I consider my UK tax payer funded Cert.Ed. was a total waste of time. That said this isn't rocket science.Byteme said:
Laser Sag said:
It might be the most basic lesson as far as you are concerned but I would have to say your teaching method comes across as a bit arogant, sure you aren't but that is the impression from posts.
Teaching methods vary and I have to say that I consider my UK tax payer funded Cert.Ed. was a total waste of time. That said this isn't rocket science.
fuzzy01 said:
Blimey oh riley, I really wish I hadn't asked. This can be a very strange site sometimes !!!! I was rather naively expecting recommendations on specific machines and polishes not an egg throwing contest.
Mike, all the things I have read recommend starting off with the combination of least agressive pad and least agressive compound of polish if that has no effect then go to least agressive pad with a more agressive compound until you find the combination that has the cut you need.Personally I have prefered to use less agressive combinations and go over the area more times, wether right or wrong I have worked on the fact that I will be much less likely to cause any damage myself that way.
The most effective option though is to give Paddy a call and get him to work his cake powered witchcraft on your car, the pixie dust he uses has some fantastic results
.By the time you have purchased a decent dual action polisher(dont go for rotary as you can cut through the clear coat and cause a lot of damge very quickly)a selection of good quality pads and polishes you will be reaching the cost of having a paint correction carried out by a pro.
Edited by Laser Sag on Sunday 31st August 12:10
Laser Sag said:
Mike, all the things I have read recommend starting off with the combination of least agressive pad and least agressive compound of polish if that has no effect then go to least agressive pad with a more agressive compound until you find the combination that has the cut you need.
Personally I have prefered to use less agressive combinations and go over the area more times, wether right or wrong I have worked on the fact that I will be much less likely to cause any damage myself that way.
The most effective option though is to give Paddy a call and get him to work his cake powered witchcraft on your car, the pixie dust he uses has some fantastic results.
By the time you have purchased a decent dual action polisher(dont go for rotary as you can cut through the clear and cause a lot of damge very quickly)a selection of good quality pads and polishes you will be reaching the cost of having a paint correction carried by a pro.
+1, my first and last contribution to this threadPersonally I have prefered to use less agressive combinations and go over the area more times, wether right or wrong I have worked on the fact that I will be much less likely to cause any damage myself that way.
The most effective option though is to give Paddy a call and get him to work his cake powered witchcraft on your car, the pixie dust he uses has some fantastic results
.By the time you have purchased a decent dual action polisher(dont go for rotary as you can cut through the clear and cause a lot of damge very quickly)a selection of good quality pads and polishes you will be reaching the cost of having a paint correction carried by a pro.
To the op : My previous offer still stands .
I have a Honda with seriously soft paint and have a range of pads/polishes for this .
If you want to try these out your self as an introduction to see how you get on before spending upwards of £200 your very welcome .
Going too some one like Paddy could well be the best option but I enjoy this sort of thing and even if I could afford the "pro" route would still do it myself .
I have a Honda with seriously soft paint and have a range of pads/polishes for this .
If you want to try these out your self as an introduction to see how you get on before spending upwards of £200 your very welcome .
Going too some one like Paddy could well be the best option but I enjoy this sort of thing and even if I could afford the "pro" route would still do it myself .
To the OP: just curious, when you said you had a few scratches, did you mean something such as swirl marks and buffer trails (many, but very shallow) or actual scratches paint ( fewer, but much deeper)? It sounds like the whole argument arises from the difference between these two. The former you can definitely remedy with a d/a and some varying grades of polish (or apparently with some cake). The latter can only be lessened in appearance, but can never be fully be removed without a repaint (no matter how much cake you throw at it).
KarlFranz said:
To the OP: just curious, when you said you had a few scratches, did you mean something such as swirl marks and buffer trails (many, but very shallow) or actual scratches paint ( fewer, but much deeper)? It sounds like the whole argument arises from the difference between these two. The former you can definitely remedy with a d/a and some varying grades of polish (or apparently with some cake). The latter can only be lessened in appearance, but can never be fully be removed without a repaint (no matter how much cake you throw at it).
There are limits to the cake monsters ability, never 
Laser Sag said:
Mike, all the things I have read recommend starting off with the combination of least agressive pad and least agressive compound of polish if that has no effect then go to least agressive pad with a more agressive compound until you find the combination that has the cut you need.
Personally I have prefered to use less agressive combinations and go over the area more times, wether right or wrong I have worked on the fact that I will be much less likely to cause any damage myself that way.
The most effective option though is to give Paddy a call and get him to work his cake powered witchcraft on your car, the pixie dust he uses has some fantastic results.
By the time you have purchased a decent dual action polisher(dont go for rotary as you can cut through the clear coat and cause a lot of damge very quickly)a selection of good quality pads and polishes you will be reaching the cost of having a paint correction carried out by a pro.
So let me get this right, your first attempt hasn't worked but has removed a whole load of the surrounding paint, after all, as some have asserted (not me) this is the whole purpose of polishing. Having failed you then repeat the process using using a more aggressive compound on the same compliant pad that failed the first time. Good luck with that.Personally I have prefered to use less agressive combinations and go over the area more times, wether right or wrong I have worked on the fact that I will be much less likely to cause any damage myself that way.
The most effective option though is to give Paddy a call and get him to work his cake powered witchcraft on your car, the pixie dust he uses has some fantastic results
.By the time you have purchased a decent dual action polisher(dont go for rotary as you can cut through the clear coat and cause a lot of damge very quickly)a selection of good quality pads and polishes you will be reaching the cost of having a paint correction carried out by a pro.
Edited by Laser Sag on Sunday 31st August 12:10
Dual action polishers are, for the most part, a complete waste of time and only intended for the amateur who isn't prepared to put in a little bit of effort. A single good quality polishing compound and rotary polisher is pretty much all you'll ever need to reach 95% of a paint finishes potential. A foam head and a finer grade compound will then bring it up to near perfection with only the tiniest amount of hand finishing then required.
A rotary polisher will only damage a clear coat when used by someone who doesn't know how to use it. There's a minimum of 50 microns/0.002" of clear, more than enough to withstand quite a lot of abrasion. It has always been an easy system to work with unlike the single layer metallic TPA and cellulose finishes that Aston Martin used to use when it really was an art to finish a car.
Byteme said:
Laser Sag said:
Mike, all the things I have read recommend starting off with the combination of least agressive pad and least agressive compound of polish if that has no effect then go to least agressive pad with a more agressive compound until you find the combination that has the cut you need.
Personally I have prefered to use less agressive combinations and go over the area more times, wether right or wrong I have worked on the fact that I will be much less likely to cause any damage myself that way.
The most effective option though is to give Paddy a call and get him to work his cake powered witchcraft on your car, the pixie dust he uses has some fantastic results.
By the time you have purchased a decent dual action polisher(dont go for rotary as you can cut through the clear coat and cause a lot of damge very quickly)a selection of good quality pads and polishes you will be reaching the cost of having a paint correction carried out by a pro.
So let me get this right, your first attempt hasn't worked but has removed a whole load of the surrounding paint, after all, as some have asserted (not me) this is the whole purpose of polishing. Having failed you then repeat the process using using a more aggressive compound on the same compliant pad that failed the first time. Good luck with that.Personally I have prefered to use less agressive combinations and go over the area more times, wether right or wrong I have worked on the fact that I will be much less likely to cause any damage myself that way.
The most effective option though is to give Paddy a call and get him to work his cake powered witchcraft on your car, the pixie dust he uses has some fantastic results
.By the time you have purchased a decent dual action polisher(dont go for rotary as you can cut through the clear coat and cause a lot of damge very quickly)a selection of good quality pads and polishes you will be reaching the cost of having a paint correction carried out by a pro.
Edited by Laser Sag on Sunday 31st August 12:10
Dual action polishers are, for the most part, a complete waste of time and only intended for the amateur who isn't prepared to put in a little bit of effort. A single good quality polishing compound and rotary polisher is pretty much all you'll ever need to reach 95% of a paint finishes potential. A foam head and a finer grade compound will then bring it up to near perfection with only the tiniest amount of hand finishing then required.
A rotary polisher will only damage a clear coat when used by someone who doesn't know how to use it. There's a minimum of 50 microns/0.002" of clear, more than enough to withstand quite a lot of abrasion. It has always been an easy system to work with unlike the single layer metallic TPA and cellulose finishes that Aston Martin used to use when it really was an art to finish a car.
You obviously feel you are some sort of paint god despite providing absolutely sod all to back that up. If you are so good why don't you go and show the OP how its done and then he can post as to how marvelous you are or aren't.
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