Radiatoron a DB9 - Christ
Discussion
Jesus and there I was thinking I may be able to sneak it out of the front by just undoing the cross member running along the top of it.
How Aston must have laughed at this idea as I need to take out the crusted arch liner, air filters, head lights and then undo some bolts there.
Why is every bolt rusted to kingdom come? Why are there so many Aston stickers stuck on in various places over the Volvo name? Why couldn't they put a nice drain plug tube so the coolant would just drop down like a normal car?
Hey, at least the Jag XK radiator fits fine
How Aston must have laughed at this idea as I need to take out the crusted arch liner, air filters, head lights and then undo some bolts there.
Why is every bolt rusted to kingdom come? Why are there so many Aston stickers stuck on in various places over the Volvo name? Why couldn't they put a nice drain plug tube so the coolant would just drop down like a normal car?
Hey, at least the Jag XK radiator fits fine
jagaston said:
Hi Sump
My radiator is on its way out and would be grateful if you could provide the jaguar part number.I heard rumour it was Jaguar XK and would be interested in your experiences in sourcing and fitting it,
Genuinely on the verge of keeling over and dying after this job.My radiator is on its way out and would be grateful if you could provide the jaguar part number.I heard rumour it was Jaguar XK and would be interested in your experiences in sourcing and fitting it,
Jag number MJB4190AF
Nissens OE 66700 or 701
This job must be done on a ramp, no chance of ever doing this on jack stands. Especially with that ridiculous undertray.
Drop the undertray and drain the coolant.
AC gas must be removed.
Remove arch liner.
Remove air filter and box.
Undo 3 bolts for the headlight and lower it down, don't pull it out.
Undo the 2 side cross member bolts hidden behind the light.
Undo the bolts holding the wing on.
Undo all the bolts on the cross member 1 hidden under wing, remove the sensors on the member also, pull out the CM.
Undo 2 bolts and take out the rad fan.
Undo the hoses connecting to the rad fan. I personally on the passenger one just undid the top hose and used a prybar to gain some leverage and move it out.
Pull out the rad and condenser.
I'd never take this job on without proper tools and just as a DIY project in the garage. Way too much of a PITA. Everything is rusted and seized.
Everything about it just seemed so unnecessary.
Sump said:
Why is every bolt rusted to kingdom come?
Because they used cheap, poorly plated fasteners when they built the cars. I have pre-empted this issue by replacing the fasteners as far as possible with stainless steel or anodised aluminium with lubricated threads. Better replace now when you are not stressed and have time to fight with stubborn bolts than when you are pushed for time and enthusiasm trying to repair something.I found the worst ones were in the undertrays and wheel arch liners so stainless went in.
Edited by 8Tech on Sunday 28th September 14:58
F1 NDW said:
My Vanquish radiator failed the same way. However I did not replace like for like as you appear to have done. The new part supplied by AML is a much stronger all aluminium radiator and was 50 quid more. Well worth in my opinion. I didn't want to be doing that job again.
Well the XK radiator was £200 and the AM one was £650..I saw no point in the sides being converted to aluminium when the issues were in the fin area.
Sump said:
Well the XK radiator was £200 and the AM one was £650..
I saw no point in the sides being converted to aluminium when the issues were in the fin area.
It is the section where yours failed that is also beefed up. Mine failed in exactly the same place. I must admitI saw no point in the sides being converted to aluminium when the issues were in the fin area.
I didn't manage to find one as cheap as you have.
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