Replacing headlight unit, easy job ?
Discussion
Mike, for the avoidance of doubt I didn't say AM did DRLs I was just saying I wondered if they could be added if one so wished.
Allan, I also searched for the part because of the words Philips and the part number and drew a blank.
For completeness here is a photo of the LEDs themselves:
The two at the front are the side lights whilst the square one at the back is the indicator.
In terms of connectors on the main PCB: the three pin one is the supply in, while the six pin connector is the supply to the LED boards, of which there are seven.
Allan, I also searched for the part because of the words Philips and the part number and drew a blank.
For completeness here is a photo of the LEDs themselves:
The two at the front are the side lights whilst the square one at the back is the indicator.
In terms of connectors on the main PCB: the three pin one is the supply in, while the six pin connector is the supply to the LED boards, of which there are seven.
Bouldermobile said:
Mike, for the avoidance of doubt I didn't say AM did DRLs I was just saying I wondered if they could be added if one so wished.
Got youAM have to use DRL in Canada to meet local legislation but all they do is flash the firm ware so the side lights cannot be switched off at all
I am actually surprised that when the LED board fails is does not have a knock on effect to something else electronic on the Aston (as usually happens)
In July my Roof Module failed and rendered the speedo, rev counter and Indicators useless (try to figure that one out?)
This week I got an ABS, DSC failure warning light (I think it is the Brake Pressure Transducer on the brake master cylinder) and it is booked into AM Edinburgh on Monday.
The problem however was driving home at peak time traffic and the car was very temperamental in shifting down gears (upshifts worked ok) either with the steering wheel paddles or in Drive mode, certainly made for an interesting journey home.
At least the Aston engineers although rubbish at designing electronic interfaces that work properly are not tempted to fit similar looking LED lighting as per Citreon and Audi et al which have more ornate lights than most peoples Xmas tree
Thanks to Bouldermobile for this detailed post, very informative.
In July my Roof Module failed and rendered the speedo, rev counter and Indicators useless (try to figure that one out?)
This week I got an ABS, DSC failure warning light (I think it is the Brake Pressure Transducer on the brake master cylinder) and it is booked into AM Edinburgh on Monday.
The problem however was driving home at peak time traffic and the car was very temperamental in shifting down gears (upshifts worked ok) either with the steering wheel paddles or in Drive mode, certainly made for an interesting journey home.
At least the Aston engineers although rubbish at designing electronic interfaces that work properly are not tempted to fit similar looking LED lighting as per Citreon and Audi et al which have more ornate lights than most peoples Xmas tree
Thanks to Bouldermobile for this detailed post, very informative.
Edited by Manwhoneverwas on Friday 28th November 18:05
Bouldermobile said:
In terms of connectors on the main PCB: the three pin one is the supply in, while the six pin connector is the supply to the LED boards, of which there are seven.
Hadn't realised that each LED module was separate. Been researching Autosystems (as printed on the board), looks like they were bought out by a company called Magna, not sure of the relationship to Philips though.
Manwhoneverwas said:
I am actually surprised that when the LED board fails is does not have a knock on effect to something else electronic on the Aston (as usually happens)
Shhh, they haven't thought of that yet, when they do and connect together several other circuits into the sidelights, they can screw even more money out of us when the sidelight blows Edited by Manwhoneverwas on Friday 28th November 18:05
mikey k said:
Got you
AM have to use DRL in Canada to meet local legislation but all they do is flash the firm ware so the side lights cannot be switched off at all
Not true. They re-flash the firmware so that the dip (low) beams cannot be switched off at all. The LED indicators are too dim to be used as DRLs.AM have to use DRL in Canada to meet local legislation but all they do is flash the firm ware so the side lights cannot be switched off at all
Is it worth getting the PCB coated in this before re-installing? http://www.liquipel.com
R8VBV said:
Is it worth getting the PCB coated in this before re-installing? http://www.liquipel.com
Nice idea!R8VBV said:
Is it worth getting the PCB coated in this before re-installing? http://www.liquipel.com
Yes although there are many different types of conformal coating, see Here for a good explanation.Hi everybody,
I am following up on this post as I did my right hand headlight this week as per Bouldermobile's indications.
As said before, undoing the lens is quite a job that requires a lot of time and patience. Also you need quite a powerful air gun (I have used a small professional tool for heatshrink tubing). This is especially true if you get the black compound as a sealant.
After a couple of hours, few coffees and beers you get really relieved when it is done !
Then I tested the board. It is well made with overrated power components for the led driver side (I could not test the CAN bus circuit). To illustrate the point, the driver for the orange turn light indicator led array is a 24 Amps Nchannel mosfet (ref: STD20NF06L) from ST microelectronics.
So the board looked very clean with a thick clear rubbery varnish on it and did not show any sign of burned components.
Then by testing the LED arrays, I discovered that the one that had failed (LED side) has the leds wired in series. This is not unusual for high power led modules but it means that when one led fails the entire array is no longer powered.
This is exactely what happened to me. I "short circuited" that one led and tested the unit in place: bingo ! I have then ordered what looks like an exact replacement from RS components and will finalise the repair when I receive the part. (LW A6SG from OSRAM)
Hope this helps
Eddie
Montpellier - France
I am following up on this post as I did my right hand headlight this week as per Bouldermobile's indications.
As said before, undoing the lens is quite a job that requires a lot of time and patience. Also you need quite a powerful air gun (I have used a small professional tool for heatshrink tubing). This is especially true if you get the black compound as a sealant.
After a couple of hours, few coffees and beers you get really relieved when it is done !
Then I tested the board. It is well made with overrated power components for the led driver side (I could not test the CAN bus circuit). To illustrate the point, the driver for the orange turn light indicator led array is a 24 Amps Nchannel mosfet (ref: STD20NF06L) from ST microelectronics.
So the board looked very clean with a thick clear rubbery varnish on it and did not show any sign of burned components.
Then by testing the LED arrays, I discovered that the one that had failed (LED side) has the leds wired in series. This is not unusual for high power led modules but it means that when one led fails the entire array is no longer powered.
This is exactely what happened to me. I "short circuited" that one led and tested the unit in place: bingo ! I have then ordered what looks like an exact replacement from RS components and will finalise the repair when I receive the part. (LW A6SG from OSRAM)
Hope this helps
Eddie
Montpellier - France
Hello Eddie,
Thanks for the update and additional information on parts.
Mine failed a further two times but because IER repaired them under warranty I never delved deeper into the cause, apart from identifying it was always (well in my experience) being the LEDs rather than the main PCB.
Apart from bridging the circuit across each LED in turn is there an easy way of locating the faulty part, say with a multimeter? I assume the chances of two failing at once is quite remote?
Defintely interested to know how you get on with the replacement LED from RS Components, so please report back when you know if it is a good match or not. Interesting that the manufacturer states 'highly reliable' in the description. Also worth noting there is the price difference between the LED (now 30% cheaper) at £0.276 each (yes I know you have to buy 5)and a new headlight at £1,275 + VAT!
Thanks for the update and additional information on parts.
Mine failed a further two times but because IER repaired them under warranty I never delved deeper into the cause, apart from identifying it was always (well in my experience) being the LEDs rather than the main PCB.
Apart from bridging the circuit across each LED in turn is there an easy way of locating the faulty part, say with a multimeter? I assume the chances of two failing at once is quite remote?
Defintely interested to know how you get on with the replacement LED from RS Components, so please report back when you know if it is a good match or not. Interesting that the manufacturer states 'highly reliable' in the description. Also worth noting there is the price difference between the LED (now 30% cheaper) at £0.276 each (yes I know you have to buy 5)and a new headlight at £1,275 + VAT!
Hello Bouldermobile,
I only bridged the one faulty led once I had detected it. You can do that easily by using a 3V camera battery with a 1k resistor in line (do not use a 5v supply as it will surely burn the led).
The best is to unclip the entire led array and test them all. Then once the faulty one is found out you may bridge it accross and reconnect the unit just to feel the immense pleasure of having saved 2 thousand pounds... at least.
I received the leds this morning and already soldered the burned one (unless you have a surface mount soldering tool, I suggest you first fix it with a tiny drop of cyano and then solder it in place).
Result: I am very happy with the result although it is not as cold white as the others (slightly yellowish shade).
However you really have to know it to find the difference. so I guess I will content myself with it !
(I have also read in an other post that when you replace only one of the units, chances are that the new led stip colour does not exactly match the other one).
I will now reassemble the unit and seal it from the external rim with some clear silicon compound so as to be able to do the next led more easily just by cutting the seal away !
Hope it helps,
eddie
PS: in my contribution to this post, I had no intention to take any business away from the Aston Martin company or any of its representatives. I acquired my car from an official AM dealer and it is only maintained within the official AM dealership.
I've just found totally ridiculous that you have to replace such a highly sophisticated and therefore expensive unit just because of one £0.276 component that had failed.
I only bridged the one faulty led once I had detected it. You can do that easily by using a 3V camera battery with a 1k resistor in line (do not use a 5v supply as it will surely burn the led).
The best is to unclip the entire led array and test them all. Then once the faulty one is found out you may bridge it accross and reconnect the unit just to feel the immense pleasure of having saved 2 thousand pounds... at least.
I received the leds this morning and already soldered the burned one (unless you have a surface mount soldering tool, I suggest you first fix it with a tiny drop of cyano and then solder it in place).
Result: I am very happy with the result although it is not as cold white as the others (slightly yellowish shade).
However you really have to know it to find the difference. so I guess I will content myself with it !
(I have also read in an other post that when you replace only one of the units, chances are that the new led stip colour does not exactly match the other one).
I will now reassemble the unit and seal it from the external rim with some clear silicon compound so as to be able to do the next led more easily just by cutting the seal away !
Hope it helps,
eddie
PS: in my contribution to this post, I had no intention to take any business away from the Aston Martin company or any of its representatives. I acquired my car from an official AM dealer and it is only maintained within the official AM dealership.
I've just found totally ridiculous that you have to replace such a highly sophisticated and therefore expensive unit just because of one £0.276 component that had failed.
For your info I have posted a full tutorial on the matter on the aston passion forum at:
http://astonpassion.com/index.php?/topic/16445-tut...
OK it is in French and one will judge if a £3000 potential saving is worth the effort !
http://astonpassion.com/index.php?/topic/16445-tut...
OK it is in French and one will judge if a £3000 potential saving is worth the effort !
steveatesh said:
I'm trying to think of it as "progress". Engineers design a good idea, a sidelight, that consists of a single bulb which costs 50p to change. It works well for around 100 years when new engineers come along and decide to improve it by a strip of LED bulbs worked by a hidden PCB, and install it all in an expensive full headlight until that the end user can't touch. For that privilege it costs around £1400 to change said lightbulb. FFS
My first one went under warranty. I think Aston have a nice little earner here!
The solution: Send your front or rear Aston light unit complete, to Steve Campbell of CRE at 24, Carterford Drive NR3 4DW (or call him first on: 07917 840156) and he will repair it, replacing either the PCB, individual LEDs or the whole LED blade. He has done both rears for my Vantage - £300 for one (as everything was corroded) and £180 for the other as it was just the PCB. He is honest, quick and a nice guy, I reccomend him. JamesMy first one went under warranty. I think Aston have a nice little earner here!
Hi all
Don’t allow Aston to take your money. The headlights can be repaired professionally. And then sealed properly. I’m getting rid of my Vantage. I’m trying to sell the bloody thing. I’ve cancelled the MOT twice now because something else has failed. It’s £215 plus £20 postage. Fully repaired. That’s the indicator and side light led strip and circuit board. The company is advertised on eBay.
They also repair the crap rear clusters. I’ve always wanted an Aston. I’ve owned two and both crap in build quality. Did I enjoy them. Yes. Would I buy another. No chance.
Don’t allow Aston to take your money. The headlights can be repaired professionally. And then sealed properly. I’m getting rid of my Vantage. I’m trying to sell the bloody thing. I’ve cancelled the MOT twice now because something else has failed. It’s £215 plus £20 postage. Fully repaired. That’s the indicator and side light led strip and circuit board. The company is advertised on eBay.
They also repair the crap rear clusters. I’ve always wanted an Aston. I’ve owned two and both crap in build quality. Did I enjoy them. Yes. Would I buy another. No chance.
Hi all
Don’t allow Aston to take your money. The headlights can be repaired professionally. And then sealed properly. I’m getting rid of my Vantage. I’m trying to sell the bloody thing. I’ve cancelled the MOT twice now because something else has failed. It’s £215 plus £20 postage. Fully repaired. That’s the indicator and side light led strip and circuit board. The company is advertised on eBay.
They also repair the crap rear clusters. I’ve always wanted an Aston. I’ve owned two and both crap in build quality. Did I enjoy them. Yes. Would I buy another. No chance.
Also do not use aston dealers for your repairs. They don’t diagnose only throw parts at them. If you’re local to Dorset. I strongly recommend Aston service Dorset. 3rd generation in the Aston business. These are trustworthy and real mechanics. Hourly rate is better.
Don’t allow Aston to take your money. The headlights can be repaired professionally. And then sealed properly. I’m getting rid of my Vantage. I’m trying to sell the bloody thing. I’ve cancelled the MOT twice now because something else has failed. It’s £215 plus £20 postage. Fully repaired. That’s the indicator and side light led strip and circuit board. The company is advertised on eBay.
They also repair the crap rear clusters. I’ve always wanted an Aston. I’ve owned two and both crap in build quality. Did I enjoy them. Yes. Would I buy another. No chance.
Also do not use aston dealers for your repairs. They don’t diagnose only throw parts at them. If you’re local to Dorset. I strongly recommend Aston service Dorset. 3rd generation in the Aston business. These are trustworthy and real mechanics. Hourly rate is better.
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