Warming up your engine?
Discussion
kensilver said:
Do we let our V12 warm up before starting? Or drive off straight away? Back in the old days I was taught to let the car idle for a minute to let the oil flow through the pump etc.
Has that theory changed? What does everyone else do?
Mine usually sits for a moment or two, largely as I have to get out and close a gate behind me. But being neighbourly and also to exhibit some mechanical sympathy I let the water temperature gauge get up to normal before applying any beans. Those first five minutes or so gives one a chance to get a feel for conditions underfoot, too. Has that theory changed? What does everyone else do?
Sadly these days almost no car offers a proper oil pressure gauge - I still consider this to be one of an engine's most essential instruments and yet all you usually get is a little oil can light when it's too late...
Sump said:
I get in and start driving. It's Ford V6s stuck together
Too much Clarkson and not enough fact.
True in so far as pistons and a few other bits common with the Ford Duratec V6, but block and cylinder heads all new and bespoke from Cosworth.
Edited by wokkadriver on Monday 5th October 00:15
We do not sit around to let the engine warm up. We wait until the fast idle after startup comes down to normal idle revs, then we drive off, keeping things gentle until the temp gauge shows we are warmed up.
Why? Two reasons:
1. Apart from startup (unavoidable), engine wear is greatest until everything is up to operating temperature. Things will get to this temperature much more quickly under a mild load than sitting stationary.
2. Catalytic converters work properly when warmed up; see above.
Why? Two reasons:
1. Apart from startup (unavoidable), engine wear is greatest until everything is up to operating temperature. Things will get to this temperature much more quickly under a mild load than sitting stationary.
2. Catalytic converters work properly when warmed up; see above.
I've had an oil temp gauge in a couple of cars previous. Whats surprising is just how much longer it can be to warm up than the water ...like 15 mins of driving at 60mph
I just get in and ride/drive all modern vehicles, give it another 5-10 mins after the water is up, before using all the rev range
On older vehicles with manual chokes, then yes, often warm it up enough until the choke is off before riding...
I just get in and ride/drive all modern vehicles, give it another 5-10 mins after the water is up, before using all the rev range
On older vehicles with manual chokes, then yes, often warm it up enough until the choke is off before riding...
wokkadriver said:
Too much Clarkson and not enough fact.
True in so far as pistons and a few other bits common with the Ford Duratec V6, but block and cylinder heads all new and bespoke from Cosworth.
Edited by wokkadriver on Monday 5th October 00:15
Assembled in Germany hopefully with out any ex Porsche engineers.
Edited by cayman-black on Monday 5th October 09:05
moveover said:
There's also the gearbox fluids to consider too. They take as long if not longer than the engine to reach operating temperature (I think).
Considering how far away the gearbox is, from the initial area of heat, you must be correct.
The engine temperature gauge (coolant) indicates normal fairly soon after driving away, but I wait a couple of miles more before exceeding 3,000rpm. I am not an engineer, but presume that I am being mechanically sympathetic.
Once the initial momentary start up flare had subsided just stick the car in gear and drive away. Conveniently this minor delay is usually just long enough to click the seatbelt into place and press the button for the heated seat.
Any other prolonged idling does more harm than good as you're just extending the time that the engine has to cope with cold fluids and reduced oil circulation.
Any other prolonged idling does more harm than good as you're just extending the time that the engine has to cope with cold fluids and reduced oil circulation.
syncii said:
Impasse said:
Any other prolonged idling does more harm than good as you're just extending the time that the engine has to cope with cold fluids and reduced oil circulation.
Is this a fact? If it is I will start doing this..........
Like I said, allow the initial start up flare to fade, then off you go. Each and every start will cause wear, but the least amount of wear will be caused by starting to drive straight away - but with the caveat of displaying obvious mechanical sympathy. No excessive revs or labouring of the engine while it's coming up to temperature.
The only acceptable method of warming an engine in a road car outside of simply driving it will involve an underbonnet external heating element powered either by 240 volts or some form of fuel burner ( Kenlowe Hotstart if you wish to warm up the car's engine coolant while still parked in the garage).
The only acceptable method of warming an engine in a road car outside of simply driving it will involve an underbonnet external heating element powered either by 240 volts or some form of fuel burner ( Kenlowe Hotstart if you wish to warm up the car's engine coolant while still parked in the garage).
syncii said:
Impasse said:
Like I said, allow the initial start up flare to fade, then off you go. Each and every start will cause wear, but the least amount of wear will be caused by starting to drive straight away - but with the caveat of displaying obvious mechanical sympathy. No excessive revs or labouring of the engine while it's coming up to temperature.
D
The only acceptable method of warming an engine in a road car outside of simply driving it will involve an underbonnet external heating element powered either by 240 volts or some form of fuel burner ( Kenlowe Hotstart if you wish to warm up the car's engine coolant while still parked in the garage).
Understood.D
The only acceptable method of warming an engine in a road car outside of simply driving it will involve an underbonnet external heating element powered either by 240 volts or some form of fuel burner ( Kenlowe Hotstart if you wish to warm up the car's engine coolant while still parked in the garage).
But what about making sure engine oil gets to where it should be before moving off?
No need unless you're attempting to run an engine for the first time. As long as the car is serviced according to schedule and the appropriate grade fluids are used, then the engine will already have a coating of oil over its critical parts left over from when the engine was previously switched off.
There may be some benefit in a car from the 1960s going through such a procedure, but it's not necessary on any modern car utilising modern lubricants.
There may be some benefit in a car from the 1960s going through such a procedure, but it's not necessary on any modern car utilising modern lubricants.
Impasse said:
No need unless you're attempting to run an engine for the first time. As long as the car is serviced according to schedule and the appropriate grade fluids are used, then the engine will already have a coating of oil over its critical parts left over from when the engine was previously switched off.
There may be some benefit in a car from the 1960s going through such a procedure, but it's not necessary on any modern car utilising modern lubricants.
Agreed. For reference on the 'classic' Aston Martins 50s/60s cars, you ideally need to leave the engine to warm up before doing anything too exciting as the old aluminium blocks are more temperature sensitive (expanding materially as they heat up and vice versa as they cool). On modern cars I'm not sure leaving them to warm is going to make any noticeable difference to engine wearThere may be some benefit in a car from the 1960s going through such a procedure, but it's not necessary on any modern car utilising modern lubricants.
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