2009 vantage sport shift inconsistency
Discussion
Hello my name is Brian and I live in the USA . I was Looking at several vehicles before I picked the Aston and I wanted to be different and always loved the look of the astons.
I feel like I did everything correct and did all the precautions of getting the right car. I had the dealer do an inspection and only a couple of minor things came back and one thing I asked him several times was how was the clutch and they said it was OK.
I bought the car and start driving the car a little bit and noticed as I get higher in the RPM range the car almost acts confused? When you're in gear and you shift there is sometimes a delay before it shifts. On other occasions it shifts fast and firm. It also seems like when you shift in the higher RPM range it sometimes can Have the delay and other times it can be right on and firm.
The dealer did a readout of the gearbox and told me everything was correct. There are several values in there that I am not sure what they exactly mean. The clutch does not appear to be slipping but I am comparing this to the other manual cars that I have owned. I drove it on the highway at low speed in high gear and stood on the throttle and it does not slip. Also if I put the car into drive mode and rev it out it seems like it is also pretty good and firm. It seems once you try to get up in the higher rpm's it doesn't want to go into gear quickly it will usually go in gear but it takes a few seconds and it acts is like the car is confused and does not know what to do.
I know the original owner drove the car very easy so I have been doing clutch learns several times to try to get it fixed. My confidence in the dealer is minimum because I asked him about this and they said it was OK. I have an independent shop and he is recommending we change the fluid with the mobile 1 with a additive and try that first.
Any thoughts or ideas? it's very disappointing that I bought my dream car drove it for one day and has been in the shop for a week ... At this point I really feel like I want to sell it but then I look at the car and really love it.
I feel like I did everything correct and did all the precautions of getting the right car. I had the dealer do an inspection and only a couple of minor things came back and one thing I asked him several times was how was the clutch and they said it was OK.
I bought the car and start driving the car a little bit and noticed as I get higher in the RPM range the car almost acts confused? When you're in gear and you shift there is sometimes a delay before it shifts. On other occasions it shifts fast and firm. It also seems like when you shift in the higher RPM range it sometimes can Have the delay and other times it can be right on and firm.
The dealer did a readout of the gearbox and told me everything was correct. There are several values in there that I am not sure what they exactly mean. The clutch does not appear to be slipping but I am comparing this to the other manual cars that I have owned. I drove it on the highway at low speed in high gear and stood on the throttle and it does not slip. Also if I put the car into drive mode and rev it out it seems like it is also pretty good and firm. It seems once you try to get up in the higher rpm's it doesn't want to go into gear quickly it will usually go in gear but it takes a few seconds and it acts is like the car is confused and does not know what to do.
I know the original owner drove the car very easy so I have been doing clutch learns several times to try to get it fixed. My confidence in the dealer is minimum because I asked him about this and they said it was OK. I have an independent shop and he is recommending we change the fluid with the mobile 1 with a additive and try that first.
Any thoughts or ideas? it's very disappointing that I bought my dream car drove it for one day and has been in the shop for a week ... At this point I really feel like I want to sell it but then I look at the car and really love it.
Edited by Cloneman315 on Monday 9th November 00:56
Edited by Cloneman315 on Monday 9th November 01:54
Edited by Cloneman315 on Monday 9th November 01:55
Edited by Cloneman315 on Monday 9th November 01:55
Edited by Cloneman315 on Monday 9th November 01:56
Edited by Cloneman315 on Monday 9th November 01:57
Edited by Cloneman315 on Monday 9th November 01:57
Edited by Cloneman315 on Monday 9th November 01:59
Edited by Cloneman315 on Monday 9th November 02:04
Repeat of what I popped into the other Sportshift thread, hope it helps 
......
Hypershift on SSI is engaged when using over 80% throttle above 5,500rpm, this is in Sport Paddle Shift mode, not Comfort or Auto D. This will offer the fastest possible changes, but the very best changes are found above 7,000 rpm when the torque curve is dropping and you get less of "jolt" but if you time it wrong you will hit the limiter.
Try flat to the floor 7k plus changes a few times ( in a safe place!) and see if the car will consistently offer fastest changes. Then try changing less aggresively to compare. If there isn't a marked different or the car will still not offer fast changes in Hypershift, get it checked!
As the others have said clutch learns are a must and a slight lift will smooth changes but this takes practice, you only need a very slight lift, if you do too much revs drop and gearchange slows.
Sportshift can still be quirky and aggravate on occasion, but you do need to learn how to change correctly, it's part of the fun, as someone else said it works best either changing in a relaxed manner or full bore, in between changes can be inconsistent until well practiced!!! Auto is best left for jams and stop-start traffic!
......Hypershift on SSI is engaged when using over 80% throttle above 5,500rpm, this is in Sport Paddle Shift mode, not Comfort or Auto D. This will offer the fastest possible changes, but the very best changes are found above 7,000 rpm when the torque curve is dropping and you get less of "jolt" but if you time it wrong you will hit the limiter.
Try flat to the floor 7k plus changes a few times ( in a safe place!) and see if the car will consistently offer fastest changes. Then try changing less aggresively to compare. If there isn't a marked different or the car will still not offer fast changes in Hypershift, get it checked!
As the others have said clutch learns are a must and a slight lift will smooth changes but this takes practice, you only need a very slight lift, if you do too much revs drop and gearchange slows.
Sportshift can still be quirky and aggravate on occasion, but you do need to learn how to change correctly, it's part of the fun, as someone else said it works best either changing in a relaxed manner or full bore, in between changes can be inconsistent until well practiced!!! Auto is best left for jams and stop-start traffic!
In "sport", the hydraulic pressure is increased to the clutch and gear lever actuators, so gearshifts are quicker. In "sport", you also have the option to "full throttle" shift [keep the throttle pedal to the floor], above 5500rpm.
During normal driving, upshifts can be made smoother by relaxing your right foot slightly as you pull the + paddle.
In "D" mode, you can interact with the gearbox, and induce upshifts by relaxing your right foot slightly at the appropriate time [dedendent on load, speed etc]. In "D sport" mode, the upshifts will happen at higher rpm than in "normal/comfort".
During normal driving, upshifts can be made smoother by relaxing your right foot slightly as you pull the + paddle.
In "D" mode, you can interact with the gearbox, and induce upshifts by relaxing your right foot slightly at the appropriate time [dedendent on load, speed etc]. In "D sport" mode, the upshifts will happen at higher rpm than in "normal/comfort".
Cloneman315 said:
So my question would be because I tried several attempts. Why would it miss the gear and not go into the next gear but sometimes it hits right on and firm?
Not sure, but it would be worth getting the hydraulic oil level checked. If it gets low, it can affect the operation. The speed of gearchange and length of torque interruption will alter according to your throttle input, the revs and the drive selected (Comfort/Sport). Testing as suggested should give you consistent fastest changes with minimal torque interuption or jolt (in standard-Sport) so you can see if your car is performing as expected for fastest changes.
If you are describing that the gearbox won't upshift when you are using the correct paddle, or there is a long delay before it does so (rather than simply a slower change) then it sounds like you should visit the dealer so he can experience this for himself and diagnose any issues. The only time the system won't upshift on request is if the revs are too low for the selected gear.
If you are describing that the gearbox won't upshift when you are using the correct paddle, or there is a long delay before it does so (rather than simply a slower change) then it sounds like you should visit the dealer so he can experience this for himself and diagnose any issues. The only time the system won't upshift on request is if the revs are too low for the selected gear.
Car is currently at a independent tech. I lost faith in the dealer I paid to do a ppi and they missed things like marker lights being out! I bought there car and drove it for two days and it has been in the shop since. Very disappointing that I finally get my dream car and after doing all the research and getting a good bill of health from the dealer I am stuck with this. He was going to swap out the gearbox oil today and add a additive he said. I am skepticle but I guess I will let him try that first.
roughrider said:
Please go back to the supplying dealer, and ask the salesman to drive the car, and demonstrate the correct technique. If the problem occurs when he is driving, then he can advise the workshop manager.
That's what I'd do. As soon as you involve another third party you have no come back on the supplying dealer and it all stands a big chance of getting messy. A couple of days isn't much - though maybe enough to talk about getting your money back.
(Assuming you bought from a dealer and didn't just have a PPI done. Which might generally only cover really basic stuff - 140 point checks are great until you look at what they actually check...)
Cloneman315 said:
I bought the car from a private seller and had the dealer do a ppi inspection. They should of caught this and the other items... I feel like I just don't trust there work now. Bad first impression for me...
Most disappointing for you, that your dream was immediately spoilt by a technical problem.
Hey ho, try to look on the bright side.
All that money you saved, by buying from a private seller.
I am sure that you know, the Sportshift Vantage has the same gearbox as the manual car. Therefore your fault is presumably with an item associated with the shifting.
As already suggested, it hopefully will be a minor component.
Good luck and tell us the outcome.
I will mention the brake switch... He is possibly thinking the magnetic gear selector sensor? The other day when he was testing the car the car shifted to the next gear but the indicator did not change. This also happen to me this morning. So that sounds like a possibility? so basically both him and myself hit the paddle to shift to the next gear the car did shift to the next gear but the indicator stayed at the previous gear selection. It through a quick code I bumped the paddle and it matched the indicator to the appropriate gear . It's like it's confused... So I guess that is possibility? Anyone experienced this sensor fault before?
Edited by Cloneman315 on Saturday 14th November 15:23
Edited by Cloneman315 on Saturday 14th November 15:24
Cloneman315 said:
Anyone have a opinion or experience with a gear sensor position sensor failing on a asm vantage?
the answer to the problem is easy - the diagnostic tool has a page called ASM snapshot. The data in that printout can not fail to indicate the problem and any worthy ppi check should of presented the same data too. Ask your garage to take the snapshot, scan and post-up and i will tell you your problem. True failure of magnetic sensor is very rare.mike thanks! I actually just realized possibly you are the connection Greg in Arizona has been talking with? I am awaiting some numbers from him to try and figure this out with software. I was wondering if the sensor was worth a try. It's driving my crazy!! The other night the car was just about perfect shifting and working well. The next day it went to crap again... Gearbox shifted but the dash cluster did not change. No funny noises and the car runs and drives great even at stops and reverse. Car was shifting At almost 7k Rpms with no problem. Greg has been a great person to deal with!! Below is what the dealer gave me, the first owner drove the car like a baby so the errors may not be showing up in that picture. You may of seen this already...
Edited by Cloneman315 on Thursday 26th November 16:44
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