V12 - how steady is she when cold?

V12 - how steady is she when cold?

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Discussion

Ken Figenus

Original Poster:

5,706 posts

117 months

Sunday 15th May 2016
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Been trying to help a fellow Rapide owner here as he doesn't think his car is running quite right and seems not to be getting much help from (continental) dealer: 'every engine is different sir'...

I'm not sure his car isn't running right really, and that this 'issue' is just a trait, so just asking fellow V12 owners if they too have an occasional surge or 'hunt' when the car is stone cold? I'm usually reversing out the garage with the door mirrors folded in with zero throttle when it blips from 900rpm to 1200rps now and again so this isn't helpful! But I just took it as a characteristic rather than a fault or issue...?

So... does your V12 think its stalling and blip the throttle for you when first stone cold now and again too?

Thanks

shuzzy

294 posts

214 months

Sunday 15th May 2016
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My 2007 DB9 is pretty much stable when cold. The revs drop slightly as it warms up, but there is no hunting or surging. The only thing I can notice is when it's warmed up I get the odd very minor shake/shudder at idle. It's had new coils and plugs recently and just come back from a full service with no issues reported.

northernmedia

1,988 posts

138 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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yep as above mine is steady, worth getting it looked at.

DAVIDOXE

494 posts

114 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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No hunting or surging from mine.

RobDown

3,803 posts

128 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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Likewise, I've not noticed any surging from either my old db9 or the new Rapide (albeit not had the latter for very long, so perhaps it will occur at some point).

RobDown

3,803 posts

128 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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And as a footnote, having followed Pierre's story this is one reason why I'd be nervous of a relatively new car being sold through a non-specialist Indy dealer - i'm sure there are bargains to be had but there could equally also be a reason why it's not in the dealer network - I wonder if the previous owner was aware of the problem? (I would similarly be cautious about cars at auction)

northernmedia

1,988 posts

138 months

Monday 16th May 2016
quotequote all
RobDown said:
And as a footnote, having followed Pierre's story this is one reason why I'd be nervous of a relatively new car being sold through a non-specialist Indy dealer - i'm sure there are bargains to be had but there could equally also be a reason why it's not in the dealer network - I wonder if the previous owner was aware of the problem? (I would similarly be cautious about cars at auction)
I bought mine from a specialist at less than 2 years old.
Using the AM warranty hasn't been an issue!

Ken Figenus

Original Poster:

5,706 posts

117 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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I know David's is a manual is yours a manual too Matt?

Also to help Pierre mine starts stone cold and runs at 1100rpm, is at 900 rpm within about 40" and then settles at below 750rpm when at operating temperature. Sound std? I will get a couple of hundred rpm surge now and again as I tap her into gear and the revs naturally drop due to torque converter drag - she may 'auto' blip it then so this could be down to autos and is std?




northernmedia

1,988 posts

138 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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Nope mines Sportshift III - shouldn't make a difference when idling cold though?

pete1212

129 posts

96 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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[quote=I'm usually reversing out the garage with the door mirrors folded in with zero throttle when it blips from 900rpm to 1200rps now and again
[/quote]

Ken,

Mine does it when it is in P. once i press D it does not do it.
I saw the AM diagnostic tool with the cylinders, tecnicians says if a cylinder is bad you should see all that column red, up to the top, (from the 12 column /cylinders), there was 2 cylinders with a bit of red going up and down like 5% of the column, he said this is nothing, but maybe these 2 cylinders at times when cold do not function well. (car was warm when he tested it)
I believe we have a coils issue, the Valencia dealer was speaking of this first, saying if 2 or 3 are bad the warranty will pay for them and labor and you can pay the rest of the coils.


It happens after the initial acceleration when you start it, then it seems to drop like 900, too low or too fast, and then it re accelerate of his own to compensate.

My idle lower ok now to 800 with or without pushing D or R. but it goes straight to 750 if i push D or R.


Edited by pete1212 on Monday 16th May 19:05

pete1212

129 posts

96 months

Monday 16th May 2016
quotequote all
RobDown said:
And as a footnote, having followed Pierre's story this is one reason why I'd be nervous of a relatively new car being sold through a non-specialist Indy dealer - i'm sure there are bargains to be had but there could equally also be a reason why it's not in the dealer network - I wonder if the previous owner was aware of the problem? (I would similarly be cautious about cars at auction)
Rob I know it could have been better but I do not regret cause I will have got a 2010 with dealer price and I believe after one year I could run through more problem being an old car.

it does it less and less, who knows it may not come back anymore. Or it is related to cold temperature only.

do you feel the car lightly trembling when cold and idle lowers?

I called the dealer AML Le cannet who last serviced it 9 months before and I have the invoice, I asked them about this, and they did not seems to be aware, I do not believe the car had that issue before. The last owner kept it 1 year and a half. I bought it from a shop who get it from the owner.

Edited by pete1212 on Monday 16th May 18:57

RobDown

3,803 posts

128 months

Monday 16th May 2016
quotequote all
I don't pierre, maybe I've just been lucky with my two v12s but I don't think your engine should be dropping as low as 500 rpm (too low) and then surging even when cold

I'll leave the diagnosis to the experts but what your describing isnt right


pete1212

129 posts

96 months

Monday 16th May 2016
quotequote all
RobDown said:
I don't pierre, maybe I've just been lucky with my two v12s but I don't think your engine should be dropping as low as 500 rpm (too low) and then surging even when cold

I'll leave the diagnosis to the experts but what your describing isnt right
Rob, thank you anyway, I well know something was wrong and its much better now.

it was to give you an example. maybe it drops to 900 too quickly and re acelerate, really I was saying so to insist on the way it seems it stall before it accelerate to compensate this . Let me correct it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkfW3TutJoE&fe...

I do not think the warranty will let me down if it is the coils we will change them and I will pay the other we will change etc...

this was a video before to change the O2 sensors when it accelerate 3 times, it drops to 900 and then 750... it des not do that anymore, idle is good now really, it has accelerate a little bit last Friday 13 at night, oups indeed it was the 14rth better, but it is happening less and less.

tomorrow i am getting it polished.



Edited by pete1212 on Monday 16th May 19:20


Edited by pete1212 on Monday 16th May 21:00


Edited by pete1212 on Tuesday 17th May 10:15

Ken Figenus

Original Poster:

5,706 posts

117 months

Monday 16th May 2016
quotequote all
pete1212 said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkfW3TutJoE&fe...

tomorrow i am getting it polished.

Edited by pete1212 on Monday 16th May 19:20
That is so definitely not right Pierre. Its about 90% more extreme than what mine does in increasing her revs 150-200rpm once for every one start-up in six maybe. I'll be watching her closely now though and annual service due so will ask them to have a look. If any Aston V12 feels 'rough' or lumpy then you are right to pursue this like you are as they are the smoothest engine you can buy!

I also booked mine in for a pro polish and a CQuartz coating top up too smile

pete1212

129 posts

96 months

Monday 16th May 2016
quotequote all
Ken Figenus said:
That is so definitely not right Pierre. Its about 90% more extreme than what mine does in increasing her revs 150-200rpm once for every one start-up in six maybe. I'll be watching her closely now though and annual service due so will ask them to have a look. If any Aston V12 feels 'rough' or lumpy then you are right to pursue this like you are as they are the smoothest engine you can buy!

I also booked mine in for a pro polish and a CQuartz coating top up too smile
But this was before Ken, before changing the O2 sensors. Its better now

Ken Figenus

Original Poster:

5,706 posts

117 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
quotequote all
Ahh OK smile

What type of polish you using - maybe this will help too wink

pete1212

129 posts

96 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
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I bougth some Carnauba wax, I wanted to have it c quartz pro, but the guy wanted the car 3 day and with what happen with the repair shop and these last 45 days I did not want leave it, I will cancel the appointment to have it polish today , I feel too stty to do anything. and it is so ridiculous to take care of the esthetic while experiencing problem like this, when I think Valencia let me take the car back 6 th time telling me it was fixed, I can't beleive it, I will call them now.-

I was advised not to do c quartz on a thread in jag forum from a person who do concours. not sure cause it was a black color or something else

pete1212

129 posts

96 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
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this is what the person said:

"But if I was you I would NOT use ceramic at all. I only use it for winter protection. For a car like AM and XK that is rarely driven, wax is MUCH better. It gives you the same benefits and is a pleasure to use.

Also Cquartz has a polish now that has the ceramic in it. In most show cars this is enough. And yes it has a very good shine more than any coating.

I recommend a good wax in your case."

"This is the alternative I was talking about.https://carpro.uk.com/collections/pa...cts/essence250

One thing to keep in mind about 2 year finishes like Cquartz is that you cant put anything on top of it like wax. And you eventually have to take it off, which requires a lot of polishing. It really meant for people who dont want to wax a car every 3 months. I want to! So I have some regrets about using Cquartz.

The way all these coatings work is simple. If you put pure nano ceramic on your car, it will fall off in a few washes. So they mix it with glue that sticks it to your car. The ceramic will fall off the glue too, but takes over a year. The glue stays longer and has to be removed by polishing."
"Incidentally, cquartz is Fantastic for wheels, you will never have difficulty cleaning brakedust off.
If you want show winning shine coatings are not for you. They are not bad, but they dont give that dripping wet look on Black cars that is so beautiful."

I bought a nano combining ceramic and wax, and it was dry, hard to apply, I gave up, i use the karnauba wax which is much more easy to apply.

Edited by pete1212 on Tuesday 17th May 07:21

pete1212

129 posts

96 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
quotequote all
Tonight upon starting it it accelerate violently, 3 times almost stalled 3 times and I could hear clac clac clac under the car, where the transmission is. I made videos only after when i started it twice and it did it but much less. But we can hear this clacking noise once. I will upload a video soon. yes its far from being repaired and it is a serious issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rm0GeNFDouA&fe...

with a clac noise at second 9 and 27. the first time i started it i did not have my mobile and it did this clac noise like 4 times...it was violent.

Edited by pete1212 on Tuesday 17th May 10:16

pete1212

129 posts

96 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
quotequote all
this is what the warranty is asking me now and the dealership is trying to tell me all is fine with my car that it is normal it does accelerate like this, the shop added, not one person on these forums who advise you actually own a v12 AM. for the shop you are lying when you tell me the car is bad.


can you please give me the following information:



1. How long do you have the vehicle?

2. Where was it purchased from (Dealer Name)?

3. Was there any warranty offered with the vehicle upon purchase?

4. What is your exact concern the flare on start up or is it the subtle instability down to 1000rpm?

5. What Fuel is being used on the vehicle, Ethanol content?

6. There is a mention of an additive, what additive is being used? Please give us the exact name of the product.

7. When did you start using it?

8. Why did you use it?



1 2 months

2 bsp Auto Prestige montpellier PARC MARCEL DASSAULT 60 RUE HENRI FARMAN, FR-34430 SAINT JEAN DE VEDAS http://bspautoprestige.com

3 there was the constructor warranty AML valid for 30 days.

4 the car accelerate alone on start up and there is a clacking noise below the car, not one single person says its normal, they are saying its real bad and I think so too.

5 95 and 98 , now always 98

6 i used a injector cleaner when the day you had the smoke test done, cause I was sick and tored not having my car repaired correctly! I will not have done it otherwise. Wynn's injector cleaner

7 I used it once only

8 I used it cause I was sick and tired to wait from tecnicians who can't repair a car correctly, I used it once 30 days after the problem occured!





Edited by pete1212 on Tuesday 17th May 09:19