V8V woes

[Birdbrain]

I've never used stealth mode. Motorway cruising (it's a roadster) is fine - the beast only kicks in when you accelerate hard.

[Frances The Mute]

I shall have to investigate further. Cheers.

[Bincenzo]

My previous V8V was sent to BR's surgery and I can't recommend it highly enough. The sound is amazing, but can be tailored to suit and if it's a quiet getaway you need, then the switch is perfect. It's loud, very loud, but when motorway cruising I always had it in stealth mode. The performance gains put the V8 where it should have been in the first place and bridges the gap between the 4.3 and the 4.7. I'd have mine back any day (in addition to my latest AM of course.....)

[matrignano]

I'm having the "bonnet open" warning issue as well now, oh joy.
Coincidentally it has started a few days after getting my front grille replaced. I haven't opened the bonnet since getting the car back from the dealer.

Does anyone know if the switch/sensor/leads are close enough to the grill to have been potentially damaged while the grille was being replaced?
I have a sneaky feeling my dealer is trying to deflect responsibility on this one, but the coincidence is just a bit too high...

[The Surveyor]

matrignano said:

I'm having the "bonnet open" warning issue as well now, oh joy.
Coincidentally it has started a few days after getting my front grille replaced. I haven't opened the bonnet since getting the car back from the dealer.

Does anyone know if the switch/sensor/leads are close enough to the grill to have been potentially damaged while the grille was being replaced?
I have a sneaky feeling my dealer is trying to deflect responsibility on this one, but the coincidence is just a bit too high...

I can't be the only person reading this and thinking that the very firsts thing to check when getting a 'bonnet open' warning is to open the bonnet and drop it down to check it's actually closed properly.

[matrignano]

The Surveyor said:

I can't be the only person reading this and thinking that the very firsts thing to check when getting a 'bonnet open' warning is to open the bonnet and drop it down to check it's actually closed properly.

Sorry, to clarify, I didn't open the bonnet between getting the car back and the warning light appearing (took a few days to manifest).
Of course I've checked the bonnet is closed properly! Warning light persists

[The Surveyor]

matrignano said:

The Surveyor said:

I can't be the only person reading this and thinking that the very firsts thing to check when getting a 'bonnet open' warning is to open the bonnet and drop it down to check it's actually closed properly.

Sorry, to clarify, I didn't open the bonnet between getting the car back and the warning light appearing (took a few days to manifest).
Of course I've checked the bonnet is closed properly! Warning light persists

Lol, apologies, I just read it that the warning came on and you hadn't tried the bonnet before speaking to the dealer... As you were

[Frances The Mute]

matrignano said:

I'm having the "bonnet open" warning issue as well now, oh joy.
Coincidentally it has started a few days after getting my front grille replaced. I haven't opened the bonnet since getting the car back from the dealer.

Does anyone know if the switch/sensor/leads are close enough to the grill to have been potentially damaged while the grille was being replaced?
I have a sneaky feeling my dealer is trying to deflect responsibility on this one, but the coincidence is just a bit too high...

It depends how clumsy the removal/install was.

The switch itself (Ford item) is pretty poor to be honest. The casing is flimsy, as is the internal mechanism. Mine just gave up the ghost and a new one from AM bits was sourced for not much money.

[clarky5150]

TPMS. there is an old thread somewhere about which wires to pull and I think splice behind the little box....end of TPMS annoyance. The sensors will fail with age and I constantly got false warnings from mine so dispatched it. No more problems. You have to be of the 'quick visual check as you walk to the car' generation tho as my wife could happily get into a car with 4 flats and drive to work without noticing...

[cayman-black]

arp489j said:

Foibles? You should try a Range Rover Sport!

Because I assumed the first one was just a Bad Friday car, I stupidly bought another one, which was even worse. It certainly spent more of its life in the Land Rover garage than in my garage. Truly awful things...

In three years of V8V ownership the total number of "foibles" is two:
Bonnet switch and a sometimes lazy fuel filler flap. I know, that is the kiss of death now.....

RB

lol. I have had my Sport since 2011 and it has never let me down , great car!

[bogie]

cayman-black said:

arp489j said:

Foibles? You should try a Range Rover Sport!

Because I assumed the first one was just a Bad Friday car, I stupidly bought another one, which was even worse. It certainly spent more of its life in the Land Rover garage than in my garage. Truly awful things...

In three years of V8V ownership the total number of "foibles" is two:
Bonnet switch and a sometimes lazy fuel filler flap. I know, that is the kiss of death now.....

RB

lol. I have had my Sport since 2011 and it has never let me down , great car!

Much of it is luck of the draw....I have a mate with a RRS owned from new in 2006, nearly 200k miles on it now, with just consumables and the odd sensor, air compressor, suspension components replaced. I too have a RRS 2008 owned for last 5 years, added 100k miles to it so far. Consumables, parking sensor, brake sensor...otherwise fault free. Hoping to get another 100k miles out of it over the next 3-4 years, before trading it in for a pittance....

The worst car ever owned was a Volvo S80, I spent thousands on replacing failed components over a 12 month period then traded it in for an Audi. No doubt the guy that bought the Volvo had many trouble free years in it and proclaimed it the best used car ever

Owned my 2006 Vantage from 6k miles/12 months old, took it to 83k miles over 9 years with just a few sensors, wheel bearings and other consumables replaced.

I usually drive 20 to 25k miles a year and spread the mileage across 2 cars. In the last 10 years I have been lucky with "reliability" - lets hope the next 10 years are just as good

[matrignano]

So, new one from me.
My front LHS indicators (embedded in the headlights) finally gave up the ghost. They had been malfunctioning intermittently for a while, and now have stopped working for good. Had the same issue with the Dipped beam in the same headlight which would occasionally not turn on, but that has been working well for a while, bizarelly.
Garage suggested I need a new headlight AND ballast.

Is that the right course of action or should I start by changing the ballast only and see if that fixed it?

[peterr96]

matrignano said:

So, new one from me.
My front LHS indicators (embedded in the headlights) finally gave up the ghost. They had been malfunctioning intermittently for a while, and now have stopped working for good. Had the same issue with the Dipped beam in the same headlight which would occasionally not turn on, but that has been working well for a while, bizarelly.
Garage suggested I need a new headlight AND ballast.

Is that the right course of action or should I start by changing the ballast only and see if that fixed it?

Guido
A faulty ballast will prevent the xenon headlight striking but it has no relevance to the indicators which I don't recall share any of the same wiring. It's highly unlikley that a new ballast will fix the indicators.

The diagnosis could well be correct.
It's possible that water ingress into the lamp assembly could be the culprit that has killed it all. It's a while since I was in there but I recall that the ballast is fastened to the bottom of the headlight assembly so any water will end up down there. Could simply be corroded connectors.

HTH

[matrignano]

peterr96 said:

Guido
A faulty ballast will prevent the xenon headlight striking but it has no relevance to the indicators which I don't recall share any of the same wiring. It's highly unlikley that a new ballast will fix the indicators.

The diagnosis could well be correct.
It's possible that water ingress into the lamp assembly could be the culprit that has killed it all. It's a while since I was in there but I recall that the ballast is fastened to the bottom of the headlight assembly so any water will end up down there. Could simply be corroded connectors.

HTH

Thanks Peter, just find it bizarre that everything in the headlight works (incl. DRLs) but the indicators.
Car's due for a service so will take it to get looked at.