2006 Vantage exhaust noise levels
Discussion
Hello all, I picked up my '06 Vantage about 6 weeks ago now and am really enjoying it.
One question that I keep getting asked is if the exhaust is standard because it is really loud once the exhaust flaps are open.
I was initially fine with this, it sounds excellent and you only get the glorious noise when you're trying to, but I had hoped to do a few track days in the car and I'm recording about 104dB on drive by which is pretty much ruling out every track in the country.
The silencer looks to be the standard Aston item so I'm wondering if people commonly fit decats or there are any other possible mods a previous owner could have done to make it louder or if this is sound level is totally normal?
One question that I keep getting asked is if the exhaust is standard because it is really loud once the exhaust flaps are open.
I was initially fine with this, it sounds excellent and you only get the glorious noise when you're trying to, but I had hoped to do a few track days in the car and I'm recording about 104dB on drive by which is pretty much ruling out every track in the country.
The silencer looks to be the standard Aston item so I'm wondering if people commonly fit decats or there are any other possible mods a previous owner could have done to make it louder or if this is sound level is totally normal?
You can look under the car and see if they've deleted the cats.
The one on the bottom is the OEM cat. The one on top is a prototype high-flow cat. The size difference you see here will be typical for OEM-vs-aftermarket. If they've deleted the cats entirely, these would be replaced with a straight-through pipe.
The one on the bottom is the OEM cat. The one on top is a prototype high-flow cat. The size difference you see here will be typical for OEM-vs-aftermarket. If they've deleted the cats entirely, these would be replaced with a straight-through pipe.
Mansfield said:
Is there a way to temporarily close the exhaust valves for the full rev range (for the likes of a track day)....or is this dangerous to the engine?
I also have sports cats, I think they sound great btw but also have the remote valve switch
I am doing a bit of research into this at the moment. Whilst it is within the realms of possibility to actually do what you're suggesting with some additional electronics, I need to look into the knock on effect to engine calibration.I also have sports cats, I think they sound great btw but also have the remote valve switch
It'll undoubtedly rob some power because the pipes inside the silencer are smaller diameter than the main pipes also unsure how restrictive the silencer baffles themselves are too. I can handle this part, the issue would be if there are any problems with fuelling under wide open throttle in the open loop section of the map. My guess is air flow will be reduced but the engine will still be getting the same amount of fuel thrown in as before - possibly running richer. I'm going to see if I can get to a dyno and have a bit of a play around with some wideband O2 sensors installed temporarily to compare.
I have a three way switch that was fitted by BR at the first Burghley event. The options are:
- open all the time (my preference)
- normal (as in factory setting which I use occasionally to make sure valves keep working)
- stealth (valves closed all the time - used once to see if there was a difference - and never again)
Wouldn't have thought BR would fit anything that would cause harm to the car even if used the wrong way. My understanding is that the stealth option was there to help people who needed a quiet start in the morning but could obviously be used at other times although can't see any circumstances when I would want to quieten the car
- open all the time (my preference)
- normal (as in factory setting which I use occasionally to make sure valves keep working)
- stealth (valves closed all the time - used once to see if there was a difference - and never again)
Wouldn't have thought BR would fit anything that would cause harm to the car even if used the wrong way. My understanding is that the stealth option was there to help people who needed a quiet start in the morning but could obviously be used at other times although can't see any circumstances when I would want to quieten the car
For interest I checked my exhausts noise levels today.
The car is also a 4.3 with 200 cell sports cats and standard exhaust(similar to the OP)
I measured with a noise meter (available off ebay) 0.5 meters at 45 degrees to one exhaust tip.
@5250rpm = 97.5db (with fuse 22)
@5250rpm = 112.7db (fuse 22 pulled)
I used these figures based on 3/4 max revs.
@5500rpm the valves open whether a fuse is there or not and then it was 117db!
So in theory you should pass the static test....the drive by is a different matter.
Let us know how you get on with the dyno.
Otherwise it sounds like Bamford Rose have a solution.
The car is also a 4.3 with 200 cell sports cats and standard exhaust(similar to the OP)
I measured with a noise meter (available off ebay) 0.5 meters at 45 degrees to one exhaust tip.
@5250rpm = 97.5db (with fuse 22)
@5250rpm = 112.7db (fuse 22 pulled)
I used these figures based on 3/4 max revs.
@5500rpm the valves open whether a fuse is there or not and then it was 117db!
So in theory you should pass the static test....the drive by is a different matter.
Let us know how you get on with the dyno.
Otherwise it sounds like Bamford Rose have a solution.
JohnnyFive said:
I am doing a bit of research into this at the moment. Whilst it is within the realms of possibility to actually do what you're suggesting with some additional electronics, I need to look into the knock on effect to engine calibration.
It'll undoubtedly rob some power because the pipes inside the silencer are smaller diameter than the main pipes also unsure how restrictive the silencer baffles themselves are too. I can handle this part, the issue would be if there are any problems with fuelling under wide open throttle in the open loop section of the map. My guess is air flow will be reduced but the engine will still be getting the same amount of fuel thrown in as before - possibly running richer. I'm going to see if I can get to a dyno and have a bit of a play around with some wideband O2 sensors installed temporarily to compare.
Did you manage to follow this up JohnnyFive?It'll undoubtedly rob some power because the pipes inside the silencer are smaller diameter than the main pipes also unsure how restrictive the silencer baffles themselves are too. I can handle this part, the issue would be if there are any problems with fuelling under wide open throttle in the open loop section of the map. My guess is air flow will be reduced but the engine will still be getting the same amount of fuel thrown in as before - possibly running richer. I'm going to see if I can get to a dyno and have a bit of a play around with some wideband O2 sensors installed temporarily to compare.
I contacted BR about a switch but got no reply.
Edited by Mansfield on Sunday 12th February 19:05
Cerberaherts, the purpose of the switch we are discussing is to keep the valves closed all the time. With fuse 22 or any of the various fuse 22 related options you can have always loud or Aston's quiet until 4k then loud, I needed always quiet.
Mansfield, I have made a remote control unit that plugs into the harness in the wheelarch to control the solenoid valve on the vac chamber. It works well with three different options: quiet/loud/OEM.
I had the car on the Dyno, at which time I was pleased to discover I have the performance upgrade installed. I got around 425bhp valves open and 408bhp valves closed. AFR was spot on for both configurations.
Mansfield, I have made a remote control unit that plugs into the harness in the wheelarch to control the solenoid valve on the vac chamber. It works well with three different options: quiet/loud/OEM.
I had the car on the Dyno, at which time I was pleased to discover I have the performance upgrade installed. I got around 425bhp valves open and 408bhp valves closed. AFR was spot on for both configurations.
It was a bit fiddly, parts were cheap but required a bit of programming and wiring. I used a generic 4-way wireless switch available off eBay/Amazon for about a tenner and programmed it to switch each channel off as another one is activated. PM me and I will dig out the diagram I made and send you over some instructions.
JohnnyFive said:
Cerberaherts, the purpose of the switch we are discussing is to keep the valves closed all the time. With fuse 22 or any of the various fuse 22 related options you can have always loud or Aston's quiet until 4k then loud, I needed always quiet.
Mansfield, I have made a remote control unit that plugs into the harness in the wheelarch to control the solenoid valve on the vac chamber. It works well with three different options: quiet/loud/OEM.
I had the car on the Dyno, at which time I was pleased to discover I have the performance upgrade installed. I got around 425bhp valves open and 408bhp valves closed. AFR was spot on for both configurations.
Hey JohnnyFive. Just wanted to check how you did this. I was planning on doing the 3 way switch, and assumed that the 3rd mode was to apply constant 12V at fuse 22/15. But in consulting the wiring diagrams, it appears this fuse is already B+, and that the computer control happens on the ground end of the vacuum solenoid. Is that correct? So the 3 options are open/gnd/computer for loud/quiet/normal?Mansfield, I have made a remote control unit that plugs into the harness in the wheelarch to control the solenoid valve on the vac chamber. It works well with three different options: quiet/loud/OEM.
I had the car on the Dyno, at which time I was pleased to discover I have the performance upgrade installed. I got around 425bhp valves open and 408bhp valves closed. AFR was spot on for both configurations.
Where did you tap into this? did you cut the wire or plug something in between the harness and the valve? That sounds ideal. Where did you get the connectors?
Thanks
Matt
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