Any tips on replacing an output shaft seal ?

Any tips on replacing an output shaft seal ?

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evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

269 months

Thursday 8th December 2016
quotequote all
The Mrs's Tiger 800 output shaft seal was leaking a tiny bit. Took the old one off dead easy, thought I'd put the new one on okay but when I run the engine in gear (I've still got the front sprocket off and the bike still up on a stand) it's still leaking ... I've obviously borked the seal trying to put it on somehow frown

Any tips for the second attempt please ?

Wedg1e

26,803 posts

265 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
It's usually considered good practice to tape up the splines and thread on the shaft end to avoid nicking the seal.
Also, make sure it goes in dead square, don't tw4t it out of shape as it goes in, a bit of lube around the inner lip (ooer missus) is a good idea. I use silicon grease but a smear of engine oil would work as well.

So in summary: flange, shaft, gusset... biggrin

evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

269 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
Permission to go "snigger" ?

Cheers chap. Do you knock yours in with something, going round the edge ? I tried unsuccessfully to get something I could push it in one go e.g. tubing. Didn't work.

Also do you use gasket sealant or similar round the outside edge ?

robbocop33

1,184 posts

107 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
evil len said:
Permission to go "snigger" ?

Cheers chap. Do you knock yours in with something, going round the edge ? I tried unsuccessfully to get something I could push it in one go e.g. tubing. Didn't work.

Also do you use gasket sealant or similar round the outside edge ?
Oil seals are such a tight fit you don't need sealnt.Just make sure where the seal is going to sit is surgically clean,and good tip about putting electrical tape over the splines,or finger of rubber glover,whatever.Little bit of oil to help seal slip over the shaft.Don't hammer it on with anything as the stiff wire ring within the seal will become distorted.
Just apply gentle/even pressure either by your fingers or something the same thickness/diameter as your seal and just evenly push it into position.

Rubin215

3,990 posts

156 months

Friday 9th December 2016
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Tape over the splines, little bit of grease round the lips of the seal, deep socket to drive it home (gently) using the old seal as a buffer.

evil len

Original Poster:

4,398 posts

269 months

Saturday 10th December 2016
quotequote all
Right, so I think it's sorted ... just run the engine idling for 10-15 minutes in sixth gear and it doesn't appear to leak (touch wood etc etc)

Didn't neat to tape over splines as they are a lot smaller than the inside of the seal. Oiled the shaft (snigger) this time too. I think I bent the previous seal getting it in, which was the problem.

So to try and push it on evenly I used the first old seal, a length of plastic plumbing tubing, the second old seal, big washer and nut.



On the outside edge of the seal, some of the rubber peeled off as it went in ... did that on the previous seal too (very very tight fit). Seems to be oil tight though. Is that normal ? (bottom of the pic on this 90 rotated picture ... thanks photobucket shyte, why do you do that ?)




MotorsportTom

3,318 posts

161 months

Saturday 10th December 2016
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Where I work we build rotary engines, when fitting water pump seals and oil seals it's very common for them to lightly "skin" the outside when going in.

Keep an eye on it for the first ride or two but I wouldn't mind if I had done it to my bike.

Good set up with the fitting tool biggrin