Does anyone work on their Aston
Discussion
ChilliWhizz said:
I still have my old '72 MGB Roadster, and whilst it doesn't have a USB port to plug the diagnostic computer thingy in to, I can tell you that removing the brake drums and replacing brake shoes on the rear end is an arse of a job compared to replacing a set of pads 
I knew somebody would point out that the MGB had brake shoes. 
ChilliWhizz said:
Good memories Jeff 
................. The original lump in the Seven was a 1340 from a Classic, with 997 crank and rods so it could race in the 1000cc clubmans class..... it was also a Cosworth lump, centre main bearing strap (three bearing crank), amazing head work, twin 40's, but the cam was fubar'd 
In hindsight I probably should have rebuilt it, but I was a teenager strapped for cash, and the dosh I got for the Cossie lump paid for the purchase and full rebuild of the X Flow... I ran it for about six months with the Cossie lump in, it had had a 105E box put in it with that huge ratio difference between 2nd and 3rd so it fell off cam, but the flames emitted from the twin 40's and the side exit exhaust were epic 
That 1340 3-main crank was known as the "glass bomb" or something, wasn't it? Something about having a harmonic frequency at about 5500 rpm.... I hear the 997 would spin up quite well, though. ................. The original lump in the Seven was a 1340 from a Classic, with 997 crank and rods so it could race in the 1000cc clubmans class..... it was also a Cosworth lump, centre main bearing strap (three bearing crank), amazing head work, twin 40's, but the cam was fubar'd In hindsight I probably should have rebuilt it, but I was a teenager strapped for cash, and the dosh I got for the Cossie lump paid for the purchase and full rebuild of the X Flow... I ran it for about six months with the Cossie lump in, it had had a 105E box put in it with that huge ratio difference between 2nd and 3rd so it fell off cam, but the flames emitted from the twin 40's and the side exit exhaust were epic Cheers,
Jeff.
Sorry for the thread resurrection but just read this and find the comments amusing to say the least.
Given that the OP was talking about a DB7 which is no more complex than a XJ6 DIY in eminently possible.
What's amused me is the idea that in the main cars are depreciating assets, even the supposed 'appreciating' cars barely keep pace with property over the long haul why anyone pays through the nose for routine work to 'preserve the value' amazes me.
Changing oil and pads and discs is not an open heart surgery skill level, it's a wiring a plug skill level.
I admit on newer cars with electrics and black boxes it becomes harder but then new skills need to be learned. A chap local to me can sort can-bus issues yet can't balance carburettors. If you get a newer car learn some newer skills.
Given that the OP was talking about a DB7 which is no more complex than a XJ6 DIY in eminently possible.
What's amused me is the idea that in the main cars are depreciating assets, even the supposed 'appreciating' cars barely keep pace with property over the long haul why anyone pays through the nose for routine work to 'preserve the value' amazes me.
Changing oil and pads and discs is not an open heart surgery skill level, it's a wiring a plug skill level.
I admit on newer cars with electrics and black boxes it becomes harder but then new skills need to be learned. A chap local to me can sort can-bus issues yet can't balance carburettors. If you get a newer car learn some newer skills.
Stick Legs said:
What's amused me is the idea that in the main cars are depreciating assets, even the supposed 'appreciating' cars barely keep pace with property over the long haul why anyone pays through the nose for routine work to 'preserve the value' amazes me.
Although I mostly agree with what you say, I think the annual stamp in the book is generally worth having - even if the "extra" stuff they find is usually not going to be done by them. My 360 is likely to be for sale soon, and - although it has appreciated far less than a house in the past 3.5 years - it has appreciated enough that I fully expect to be able to sell it for a price that means I've owned it for free in that period, despite adding 50% to the mileage and having some sizeable service bills - and I'm sure the stamps in the book make a significant difference to that.
davek_964 said:
Although I mostly agree with what you say, I think the annual stamp in the book is generally worth having - even if the "extra" stuff they find is usually not going to be done by them.
My 360 is likely to be for sale soon, and - although it has appreciated far less than a house in the past 3.5 years - it has appreciated enough that I fully expect to be able to sell it for a price that means I've owned it for free in that period, despite adding 50% to the mileage and having some sizeable service bills - and I'm sure the stamps in the book make a significant difference to that.
Absolutely Dave, by all means get the car stamped if you want to, and I have reluctantly paid BMW lots to service my 530d because I always wanted the option of handing it back. Many reasons to dealer service, not everything in life is purely financial.My 360 is likely to be for sale soon, and - although it has appreciated far less than a house in the past 3.5 years - it has appreciated enough that I fully expect to be able to sell it for a price that means I've owned it for free in that period, despite adding 50% to the mileage and having some sizeable service bills - and I'm sure the stamps in the book make a significant difference to that.
Great news on recouping your costs on the 360, that is a result!
I used to do most stuff myself on previous cars, oil, brakes, even removing most of the interior of my previous beemer to fit an OEM amp/speaker upgrade and associated loom!
I haven't really bothered with the Aston though. I was tempted to change the discs and pads myself, however decided to get BR to do it instead. Lucky I did as one of the calliper pins seized and took them an age to machine it out, I obviously couldn't have done that and it would have left my car off the road while I tried to get it sorted. I was also tempted to do an interim oil change myself, however I haven't got a lift and trying to remove the undertrays and different sum plugs, along with cleaning the additional oil filters just wasn't something I fancied with the car on axle stands. It cost me an hour's labour at an Indy down the road instead and I sourced the oil cheaply. Filter/sump plug/o rings came from Aston bits, the change cost me about £245 in total and I didn't get my hands dirty.
From experience, the Aston Indy's are better than MD's for repairs and let you provide your own parts. At around £95/hr for me it isn't worth doing most stuff myself. I source parts as cheap as I can find and just pay the labour for them to be fitted, saves a small fortune over MD's.
I haven't really bothered with the Aston though. I was tempted to change the discs and pads myself, however decided to get BR to do it instead. Lucky I did as one of the calliper pins seized and took them an age to machine it out, I obviously couldn't have done that and it would have left my car off the road while I tried to get it sorted. I was also tempted to do an interim oil change myself, however I haven't got a lift and trying to remove the undertrays and different sum plugs, along with cleaning the additional oil filters just wasn't something I fancied with the car on axle stands. It cost me an hour's labour at an Indy down the road instead and I sourced the oil cheaply. Filter/sump plug/o rings came from Aston bits, the change cost me about £245 in total and I didn't get my hands dirty.
From experience, the Aston Indy's are better than MD's for repairs and let you provide your own parts. At around £95/hr for me it isn't worth doing most stuff myself. I source parts as cheap as I can find and just pay the labour for them to be fitted, saves a small fortune over MD's.
Edited by Shrimpvende on Tuesday 18th July 14:47
I took my latest Vantage (under warranty) to a MD this year, just for a 40k service + gearbox oil change. All was fine, fixed price service + expected charge for gearbox oil, which did help smooth out the 1st to 2nd change when cold.
On the day the dealer recommended new rear discs and handbrake pads (cracking a bit). "Just" £490 fitted. Apparently they were "near" to the wear sensors ....yet still the quote included new wear sensors (which I would have re-used and saved £50)
Anyway, i said I would sort myself later, get a few more miles out of them. Im happy sourcing and doing pads myself, and I can save a few hundred quid for 90mins work, give the wheels/arches a good clean whilst im at it.
Anyway, about 500 miles/month later I get around to changing the pads. Wheel nuts come undone easy I thought, I dont need the breaker bar I usually need...mmmm
Remove rear pads, at least 3-4mm left on them before getting to wear indicators, probably quite a few thousand miles. The usual dealer conservative recommendation "might need doing in next year, change them now" .Handbrake pads look fine, hardly worn.
Anyway, I replaced the rear pads and re-used the wires, save doing it again in a few months. Torqued up wheel nuts to correct spec. Checked front wheel torque and found them sub 90Nm so torqued up to 180Nm. Guessing that whoever did them only did the first stage to 80Nm
Overall not too confidence inspiring for one of my few "main dealer" visits in the last 10 years. I guess it does not matter who the dealer is, its the individual technicians and their attention to detail that counts. On the next service I will be back at the trusty Indy ive been to in recent years with my earlier Vantage.......
On the day the dealer recommended new rear discs and handbrake pads (cracking a bit). "Just" £490 fitted. Apparently they were "near" to the wear sensors ....yet still the quote included new wear sensors (which I would have re-used and saved £50)
Anyway, i said I would sort myself later, get a few more miles out of them. Im happy sourcing and doing pads myself, and I can save a few hundred quid for 90mins work, give the wheels/arches a good clean whilst im at it.
Anyway, about 500 miles/month later I get around to changing the pads. Wheel nuts come undone easy I thought, I dont need the breaker bar I usually need...mmmm
Remove rear pads, at least 3-4mm left on them before getting to wear indicators, probably quite a few thousand miles. The usual dealer conservative recommendation "might need doing in next year, change them now" .Handbrake pads look fine, hardly worn.
Anyway, I replaced the rear pads and re-used the wires, save doing it again in a few months. Torqued up wheel nuts to correct spec. Checked front wheel torque and found them sub 90Nm so torqued up to 180Nm. Guessing that whoever did them only did the first stage to 80Nm
Overall not too confidence inspiring for one of my few "main dealer" visits in the last 10 years. I guess it does not matter who the dealer is, its the individual technicians and their attention to detail that counts. On the next service I will be back at the trusty Indy ive been to in recent years with my earlier Vantage.......
Being still under warranty, I took the DB9 to the MD this year for a fixed price service and the mythical winged "stamp". Dealer servicing is totally alien to me but judging by this forum at least would appear to be important to most future buyers, so there it goes. I got an advisory on rear pads, which I was aware of, but also cracked handbrake pads also and an expired puncture sealant which I wasn't.
Thanks to excellent advice on this forum I sourced rear pads for £95 from BMG Autoparts, and the handbrake pads from Ebay for a tenner. Also thanks to this forum I got some Blueprint air filters for £25, which will be going on very shortly along with a brake fluid change. I'd rather do service items twice as often myself than wait for a scheduled service interval and pay through the nose for simple stuff. Plus I can swap out rusty fittings for stainless as I go along, like the stainless bleed nipples from Ebay!
Looking after basic stuff on my own car has always just been part of the ownership experience, like washing it which most people can't be arsed with either these days judging by the queues at former petrol stations.
Thanks to excellent advice on this forum I sourced rear pads for £95 from BMG Autoparts, and the handbrake pads from Ebay for a tenner. Also thanks to this forum I got some Blueprint air filters for £25, which will be going on very shortly along with a brake fluid change. I'd rather do service items twice as often myself than wait for a scheduled service interval and pay through the nose for simple stuff. Plus I can swap out rusty fittings for stainless as I go along, like the stainless bleed nipples from Ebay!
Looking after basic stuff on my own car has always just been part of the ownership experience, like washing it which most people can't be arsed with either these days judging by the queues at former petrol stations.
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