MR2 mk2 - potential problems & costs
Discussion
Well I had a look at the MR2 near me and it was very nice. Not immaculate, a bit of a dent on one sill where it was jacked wrongly in the past, a few small rusty bits eg. corner of bonnet, but all in all pretty good, clean underneath and solid, sills seemed good, no signs of water leakage, had a good poke around and found no nasty rust.
Seems very low to the ground even compared to a lowered MX5, and the t-bar roof is great, had an aftermarket pipe and sounded good, and seemed quick enough to be fun.
Once I find out how my MX5 does re. rust at the MOT I can decide what to do, but I'm very tempted by the MR2.
Seems very low to the ground even compared to a lowered MX5, and the t-bar roof is great, had an aftermarket pipe and sounded good, and seemed quick enough to be fun.
Once I find out how my MX5 does re. rust at the MOT I can decide what to do, but I'm very tempted by the MR2.
You should worry about corrosion towards the rear of the sills...especially if badly repaired or worse botched with filler (the filler will hold the water in and make things even worse). I've just spent the afternoon cutting the sill off my mr2 so I know from first hand experience! They usually go near the back on the outside and also within the arch at the rear of the sill...also they go about 1.5 foot up from the back...there is an internal reinforcement plate spot welded in side which seems to be designed perfectly for retaining water and moisture so they rot from the inside out unfortunately...if you can see rust from the outside...even just a little...chances are that the rear 2 foot of sill will need to be replaced. Cost of replacement depends on how far the rot has gone...but sadly I think they will all end up going in the same place so I'm nipping it in the bud early and making a pre emptive strike with the mig welder!. Note that toyota do not supply full replacement sill panels (nor could I find any independents who did them) so it's a case of either making your own or cobbling something together from another car....I ended up making my own.
Other than the sills agree with the other posts...brake calipers are a problem area...in 17 years of ownership (the same mr2!) I've been through several calipers and discs (which can warp). Otherwise the car has been problem free...also agree on the alternator ...had 2 of those....but all in all that isn't a big list of problems in 17 years of ownership.
Just have a good poke around the last 2 foot of the sills...especially the bottom 2-3 inches...if you are allowed pull the last two sill drain plugs out and have a poke around...if your screwdriver disappears it's a sign of trouble. You can also get some access via removine the panels behind the seats...but not sure a seller would be happy with that!
Other than the sills agree with the other posts...brake calipers are a problem area...in 17 years of ownership (the same mr2!) I've been through several calipers and discs (which can warp). Otherwise the car has been problem free...also agree on the alternator ...had 2 of those....but all in all that isn't a big list of problems in 17 years of ownership.
Just have a good poke around the last 2 foot of the sills...especially the bottom 2-3 inches...if you are allowed pull the last two sill drain plugs out and have a poke around...if your screwdriver disappears it's a sign of trouble. You can also get some access via removine the panels behind the seats...but not sure a seller would be happy with that!
Depending on your skill level there is nothing particularly difficult about servicing.
Common issues are
Binding brakes due to sticking pistons and sliders.
Seized handbrake cable(s) due to rust (perished rubber gaitors let in water)
Seized/knackered front topmounts.
Worn drop links + outer track rod ends
The only job which is a PITA is changing the cambelt and tensioner.
But that's only needed every 60k miles / 100k km.
Engine swaps.
3S-GTE turbo
3VZ-FE 3.0l V6 (Camry iron block engine)
1MZ-FE 3.0l V6 (later Camry alloy block)
2GR-FE 3.5l V6 (Lexus 350)
I would also recommend doing what I did before buying.
Sign up to MR2OC & IMOC and check out the Knowledge Base sections of each.
The money I saved repaid the cost of full membership of both within the first 3 months.
As the post above yours makes clear your biggest potential problem will be tin worm. Especially on a 26 year old car.
This is where it can really turn into a money pit if you don't have the facilities/expertise to d-i-y.
Common issues are
Binding brakes due to sticking pistons and sliders.
Seized handbrake cable(s) due to rust (perished rubber gaitors let in water)
Seized/knackered front topmounts.
Worn drop links + outer track rod ends
The only job which is a PITA is changing the cambelt and tensioner.
But that's only needed every 60k miles / 100k km.
Engine swaps.
3S-GTE turbo
3VZ-FE 3.0l V6 (Camry iron block engine)
1MZ-FE 3.0l V6 (later Camry alloy block)
2GR-FE 3.5l V6 (Lexus 350)
I would also recommend doing what I did before buying.
Sign up to MR2OC & IMOC and check out the Knowledge Base sections of each.
The money I saved repaid the cost of full membership of both within the first 3 months.
As the post above yours makes clear your biggest potential problem will be tin worm. Especially on a 26 year old car.
This is where it can really turn into a money pit if you don't have the facilities/expertise to d-i-y.
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