Discussion
A little update. The exhaust is finished, i'm quite chuffed with how light it is now that its based on the turbo system.
The new drive shafts have arrived and are now fitted:
I had a very frustrating day on the car though, lots of time wasted trying to sort proof of the emgine change, and one of the CV joints arrived in bits!!! very frustrating.
More to come
The new drive shafts have arrived and are now fitted:
I had a very frustrating day on the car though, lots of time wasted trying to sort proof of the emgine change, and one of the CV joints arrived in bits!!! very frustrating.
More to come
Had a whole day on it today. I managed to get all the drive shaft and suspension bolts torqued up, although the bl***y TCA bolt took an hour to locate in the hole 
I took the EGR blank off and cleaned it up. It is much more visible than I thought it was going to be, so I've ground it back a tad.
Got all the bits of pipe and joiner sections together and connected up the main coolant hoses to the radiator (still got to connect up the heater hoses and mount the tank).
Got the last under-tray mounted (although mainly with cable ties).
And finally had a scratch around with the wire brush and applied a good coating of stone chip under the arches.
Just the brakes and clutch to bleed and it can go back on its wheels with all the remaining jobs to be done from above
More to come
I took the EGR blank off and cleaned it up. It is much more visible than I thought it was going to be, so I've ground it back a tad.
Got all the bits of pipe and joiner sections together and connected up the main coolant hoses to the radiator (still got to connect up the heater hoses and mount the tank).
Got the last under-tray mounted (although mainly with cable ties).
And finally had a scratch around with the wire brush and applied a good coating of stone chip under the arches.
Just the brakes and clutch to bleed and it can go back on its wheels with all the remaining jobs to be done from above
More to come
Thanks Shnev
I've been busy with lots of other car related stuff, so haven't had any time on the MR2 for a while. But this weekend I did get some done, and with some help too (cheers Matt)
The exhaust is fitted, I've bled the brakes and clutch, starred for hours at the gear linkage, finished the coolant hoses (just the expansion tank to go now), trimmed the subframe where the driveshaft was looking a little close and even found a way to connect the Toyota air box to the TDI MAF sensor (not yet fitted but I know how )
I've done away with all the resonance chambers (turbo means far less pulsing in the inlet pipe). No need for all these:
Found a new cold air feed for the filter housing (without the massive resonance chamber):
And I even managed to find the air box mount that I had previously thrown away
Then to top it all off, I got the diesel filter mounted and managed to start it for the first time with the exhaust on The video isn't very informative but the cut down long story is that the exhaust is very quiet but the engine is very loud!!! (I think I'm going to need to sound deadening under the engine cover)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ke2LAJtPCc&fe...
The first start is with an empty filter so it runs out of diesel pretty quick, second is after we'd primed the filter.
More to come
I've been busy with lots of other car related stuff, so haven't had any time on the MR2 for a while. But this weekend I did get some done, and with some help too
(cheers Matt)The exhaust is fitted, I've bled the brakes and clutch, starred for hours at the gear linkage, finished the coolant hoses (just the expansion tank to go now), trimmed the subframe where the driveshaft was looking a little close and even found a way to connect the Toyota air box to the TDI MAF sensor (not yet fitted but I know how
)I've done away with all the resonance chambers (turbo means far less pulsing in the inlet pipe). No need for all these:
Found a new cold air feed for the filter housing
(without the massive resonance chamber):
And I even managed to find the air box mount that I had previously thrown away
Then to top it all off, I got the diesel filter mounted and managed to start it for the first time with the exhaust on
The video isn't very informative but the cut down long story is that the exhaust is very quiet but the engine is very loud!!! (I think I'm going to need to sound deadening under the engine cover)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ke2LAJtPCc&fe...
The first start is with an empty filter so it runs out of diesel pretty quick, second is after we'd primed the filter.
More to come
Thanks bearman68
I've had a very productive morning on the MR2 although my success has been accompanied by some new problems to solve. The fuel lines are all in now and the engine runs with the simple connecting of the battery and turning of the key
The vacuum feed to the brake servo is now connected up.
And the expansion tank is finally mounted and I've filled the system with coolant and bled it, although its not got fully hot yet, so there might be more bubbles to remove.
There are however a couple of issues. The coil light flashes after a minute or so of running, I'm not sure really what that means. And more concerning, it smokes! a lot! blue smoke, I think its unburnt fuel.
I messed around a little with the timing before the engine went in, I advanced it knowing that this can be a god idea with Bio, This morning I retarded it again to see if it cured the smoke. It made lots less combustion noise, but still smoked plenty. I thought this might just be down to it being on bio, but that can't be right, my 106 doesn't smoke at all. It could be that an injector or two is contaminated? I did run it a couple of times without a filter1
Any ideas welcome? I've love to hear what you think about the smoke or the flashing coil light?
More to come
I've had a very productive morning on the MR2 although my success has been accompanied by some new problems to solve. The fuel lines are all in now and the engine runs with the simple connecting of the battery and turning of the key
The vacuum feed to the brake servo is now connected up.
And the expansion tank is finally mounted and I've filled the system with coolant and bled it, although its not got fully hot yet, so there might be more bubbles to remove.
There are however a couple of issues. The coil light flashes after a minute or so of running, I'm not sure really what that means. And more concerning, it smokes! a lot! blue smoke, I think its unburnt fuel.
I messed around a little with the timing before the engine went in, I advanced it knowing that this can be a god idea with Bio, This morning I retarded it again to see if it cured the smoke. It made lots less combustion noise, but still smoked plenty. I thought this might just be down to it being on bio, but that can't be right, my 106 doesn't smoke at all. It could be that an injector or two is contaminated? I did run it a couple of times without a filter1
Any ideas welcome? I've love to hear what you think about the smoke or the flashing coil light?
More to come
A few things spring to mind.
Recently changed the fuel pump on an old Toyota - when I replaced the pump, I failed to align the key way on the pump correctly, and although it ran, it smoked like a beast - timing was badly out.
I have also seen them smoke badly if the turbo actuator (not sure if you have one on this car), or the turbo piping has a problem - I'm sure you have thought about this already, but you did ask.
Is it possible to link it up to the VCDS and read the mechanical timing - really small changes to this will have a big effect.
Finally, just wondering if it's possible you have a blocked inlet pipework, or a problem with the MAF.
Just a thought.
All the best.
Recently changed the fuel pump on an old Toyota - when I replaced the pump, I failed to align the key way on the pump correctly, and although it ran, it smoked like a beast - timing was badly out.
I have also seen them smoke badly if the turbo actuator (not sure if you have one on this car), or the turbo piping has a problem - I'm sure you have thought about this already, but you did ask.
Is it possible to link it up to the VCDS and read the mechanical timing - really small changes to this will have a big effect.
Finally, just wondering if it's possible you have a blocked inlet pipework, or a problem with the MAF.
Just a thought.
All the best.
I've made a bit of progress recently, I had a good day on it today.
The air box is in with a new filter:
And connected up via the MAF sensor. That's the Toyota air box and VAG MAF sensor.
And this morning I got round to joining the VAG gear linkage cables with the MR2 gear linkage cables.
It's all covered and sealed now too. I few teething problems with plastic melting as I welded but nothing too difficult to sort. Its by no means perfect, the Toyota gear stick was designed for only three rows of gears (with reverse being behind 5th), and now it has 4 rows (with revers being to the left of 1st gear). The travel of the cables is perfect, it's just takes a little practice to get the one you want (reverse, 1st, 3rd or 5th). I'll be fitting a quiet buzzer to warn when you've selected reverse. I'm pretty happy with it. I think it would be a dis-proportionate amount of work to make it a really slick gear change.
This meant I could drive the car around the driveway for the first time. It was running for about 3 hours, so I was able to test it a bit. Even so it only reached around 78 deg C. B***dy efficient diesels, I wasn't able to see if the cooling fan worked.
Here's a vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR9Hp4XzfU8
I have found quite a few problems already though
There a clutch travel problem, well a lack of clutch travel. I thought I was getting away with it, push the pedal to the bottom and push it into reverse and there was no noise. But after a while it began to drag a little and grind into reverse gear. I'll try bleeding it again, but I might have to look into an alternative diameter master (Toyota) or slave (VW). I hope there is something that will fit.
Next, when I really loaded up the alternator, lights, fan, heated rear window, I think the belt area began to smoke, I'm not certain as there was a breeze, but I need to look into this a little further.
Mice have eaten part of the boot seal so I'll need to get another.
And there is a clunk when moving off in a different direction (forwards to reverse or vice versa), I think the third engine mount need looking at. As I was leaving I noticed that the exhaust flexi joint coming from the turbo elbow did not look "relaxed" as it did when I first made and fitted it, it seemed to be at a funny angle (not haha funny either!) So I think I might need to re-make or add too the third engine mount.
These fairly major issues put a bit of a downer on things this afternoon, having thought it was pretty much ready for MOT in the morning.
Oh well.
More to come
The air box is in with a new filter:
And connected up via the MAF sensor. That's the Toyota air box and VAG MAF sensor.
And this morning I got round to joining the VAG gear linkage cables with the MR2 gear linkage cables.
It's all covered and sealed now too. I few teething problems with plastic melting as I welded
but nothing too difficult to sort. Its by no means perfect, the Toyota gear stick was designed for only three rows of gears (with reverse being behind 5th), and now it has 4 rows (with revers being to the left of 1st gear). The travel of the cables is perfect, it's just takes a little practice to get the one you want (reverse, 1st, 3rd or 5th). I'll be fitting a quiet buzzer to warn when you've selected reverse. I'm pretty happy with it. I think it would be a dis-proportionate amount of work to make it a really slick gear change. This meant I could drive the car around the driveway for the first time. It was running for about 3 hours, so I was able to test it a bit. Even so it only reached around 78 deg C. B***dy efficient diesels, I wasn't able to see if the cooling fan worked.
Here's a vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR9Hp4XzfU8
I have found quite a few problems already though
There a clutch travel problem, well a lack of clutch travel. I thought I was getting away with it, push the pedal to the bottom and push it into reverse and there was no noise. But after a while it began to drag a little and grind into reverse gear. I'll try bleeding it again, but I might have to look into an alternative diameter master (Toyota) or slave (VW). I hope there is something that will fit.
Next, when I really loaded up the alternator, lights, fan, heated rear window, I think the belt area began to smoke, I'm not certain as there was a breeze, but I need to look into this a little further.
Mice have eaten part of the boot seal so I'll need to get another.
And there is a clunk when moving off in a different direction (forwards to reverse or vice versa), I think the third engine mount need looking at. As I was leaving I noticed that the exhaust flexi joint coming from the turbo elbow did not look "relaxed" as it did when I first made and fitted it, it seemed to be at a funny angle (not haha funny either!) So I think I might need to re-make or add too the third engine mount.
These fairly major issues put a bit of a downer on things this afternoon, having thought it was pretty much ready for MOT in the morning.
Oh well.
More to come
Bear with it, it's always disappointing when things don't work right straight off - but you clearly have the skill and motivation to sort these issues. Really, after all you have sorted so far, they are fairly minor - though you probably don't feel that at the mo. Have a deep breath and a cuppa tea - that often works for me (and it hurts my feet less than kicking something about the workshop.
Best of luck to you buddy.
Best of luck to you buddy.
Thanks Bearman, I'm back at it already!
I've had a couple of evenings on the car this week, and although a lot of it was spent looking and thinking, I feel I've made some good progress towards solving the issues found when driving around.
I think I've found a clutch master from a Toyota 4Runner/Hilux is the same and the MR2 cylinder but larger diameter. This should solve the clutch travel issue without a minimum of fuss (fingers crossed). The MR2 cylinder is 5/8 and this would be 3/4, a 20% increase in diameter, but more importantly a 40% ish increase in piston area! That's quite a lot! Watch this space.
The exhaust is off again (only a 5 bolt job ) and I'm hoping that the flexi will bend back into shape. The damage to the flexi was caused by the third engine mount failure when giving it some stick in 1st gear. The torque at the wheels (and therefore the torque needed to hold the engine in place) is massive in first gear. As a ball park figure (I've not looked it up for this gearbox) first is generally 3:1 and final drive is around that too, so you can multiply engine torque by 9!!! when in first gear, and that's the torque that the engine mount has to withstand to stop the engine spinning int he engine bay.
Anyway... I've straightened the broken engine mount, used much thicker steel for the mounting points to the engine, and added more steel to the structure:
Going form this:
To this:
But this is just the first part of the plan. I'm going to use some the position of the original mount, underneath the gearbox and make another section to join up with the bit pictured above. Strength in triangles.
More to come
I've had a couple of evenings on the car this week, and although a lot of it was spent looking and thinking, I feel I've made some good progress towards solving the issues found when driving around.
I think I've found a clutch master from a Toyota 4Runner/Hilux is the same and the MR2 cylinder but larger diameter. This should solve the clutch travel issue without a minimum of fuss (fingers crossed). The MR2 cylinder is 5/8 and this would be 3/4, a 20% increase in diameter, but more importantly a 40% ish increase in piston area! That's quite a lot! Watch this space.
The exhaust is off again (only a 5 bolt job
) and I'm hoping that the flexi will bend back into shape. The damage to the flexi was caused by the third engine mount failure when giving it some stick in 1st gear. The torque at the wheels (and therefore the torque needed to hold the engine in place) is massive in first gear. As a ball park figure (I've not looked it up for this gearbox) first is generally 3:1 and final drive is around that too, so you can multiply engine torque by 9!!! when in first gear, and that's the torque that the engine mount has to withstand to stop the engine spinning int he engine bay. Anyway... I've straightened the broken engine mount, used much thicker steel for the mounting points to the engine, and added more steel to the structure:
Going form this:
To this:
But this is just the first part of the plan. I'm going to use some the position of the original mount, underneath the gearbox and make another section to join up with the bit pictured above. Strength in triangles.
More to come
Thanks BrettMRC
A small update this evening. I've bent the exhaust back into shape and the 'uprated' engine mount is complete, it should take a little more punishment this one. You can see as well as strengthening the original section, there is now an additional section that extends to the bottom of the gearbox, its a little heavy but I'm sure its much stronger now
I took it for a fairly thorough trashing up and down the drive, plenty of clutch dumping and other such fun and it seems to be taking the punishment.
I left all the electrics on too and the alternator/belt is no longer smoking/steaming so I'm putting that down to some coolant steaming off as it warmed up.
Just the clutch to tackle now and a few small tidy up jobs. Its really getting there.
More to come
A small update this evening. I've bent the exhaust back into shape and the 'uprated' engine mount is complete, it should take a little more punishment this one. You can see as well as strengthening the original section, there is now an additional section that extends to the bottom of the gearbox, its a little heavy but I'm sure its much stronger now
I took it for a fairly thorough trashing up and down the drive, plenty of clutch dumping and other such fun and it seems to be taking the punishment.
I left all the electrics on too and the alternator/belt is no longer smoking/steaming so I'm putting that down to some coolant steaming off as it warmed up.
Just the clutch to tackle now and a few small tidy up jobs. Its really getting there.
More to come
Good stuff Lozzz, nifty looking bit of fabrication there. Does it bolt directly on to the box/block? What is the vibration in the cabin like?
At first I thought you were mad, but I'm really starting to see the appeal of this as a long distance eco-cruiser. I had an SW20 MR2 for a short while and it was a very comfortable place to sit, really felt snug and supportive down in the seat. Are you planning on using it as a commuter?
At first I thought you were mad, but I'm really starting to see the appeal of this as a long distance eco-cruiser. I had an SW20 MR2 for a short while and it was a very comfortable place to sit, really felt snug and supportive down in the seat. Are you planning on using it as a commuter?
simoid, Its quite strange isn't it It might end up turning a few heads
Thanks MrTwisty. The bit photographed bolts straight to the gearbox at the bottom, and through the bell housing into the block at the top. There is however a large rubber mount to the car's sub-frame.
It takes a while to get the feel of a car and know whether or not its going to be noisy and annoying, but my first thoughts after driving it about on the driveway are good, it doesn't seem much louder than the Toledo from where the engine originated. Well that's true when you're in the car, standing outside the car it is a bit noisy.
I couldn't agree more regarding the MR2 being cosy and comfortable, particularly at night with those big lights up in front of you The plan for this car is to be used all the time, sell my horrible 106 diesel and keep the crazy Scimitar as the weekend car. If the MR2 turns out well, not too noisy on a long run and reliable and if I can afford it I'll tune it a bit, but it was always intended to cover lots of commuting miles using my the biodiesel that I'm making. 30 ish ppl
It might end up turning a few heads Thanks MrTwisty. The bit photographed bolts straight to the gearbox at the bottom, and through the bell housing into the block at the top. There is however a large rubber mount to the car's sub-frame.
It takes a while to get the feel of a car and know whether or not its going to be noisy and annoying, but my first thoughts after driving it about on the driveway are good, it doesn't seem much louder than the Toledo from where the engine originated. Well that's true when you're in the car, standing outside the car it is a bit noisy.
I couldn't agree more regarding the MR2 being cosy and comfortable, particularly at night with those big lights up in front of you
The plan for this car is to be used all the time, sell my horrible 106 diesel and keep the crazy Scimitar as the weekend car. If the MR2 turns out well, not too noisy on a long run and reliable and if I can afford it I'll tune it a bit, but it was always intended to cover lots of commuting miles using my the biodiesel that I'm making. 30 ish ppl Making Bio this weekend was a right faff, it took ages! But when that was all done, I did a little more on the MR2.
I finally got round to timing the engine properly following the cam belt change. This was only to get the cam timing right, I've still got to get the injection pump timing done with VAG-com.
Then popped everything back together, put the cross brace in, and the edge covers.
Then finally the engine cover.
Then it was ready for a wash. At this point I realised how late it was and packed up
Before the MOT I've still got to get a couple of slow punctures fixed, and the injection timing right, then give it a good clean and polish.
There is a bigger set of wheels and tires to go on to get the gearing correct for the speedo and bring the revs down a touch, but I thought it worth giving it a try first.
Close now
More to come
I finally got round to timing the engine properly following the cam belt change. This was only to get the cam timing right, I've still got to get the injection pump timing done with VAG-com.
Then popped everything back together, put the cross brace in, and the edge covers.
Then finally the engine cover.
Then it was ready for a wash. At this point I realised how late it was and packed up
Before the MOT I've still got to get a couple of slow punctures fixed, and the injection timing right, then give it a good clean and polish.
There is a bigger set of wheels and tires to go on to get the gearing correct for the speedo and bring the revs down a touch, but I thought it worth giving it a try first.
Close now
More to come
Its amazing how long I've been telling people that "it's ready for MOT", yet I've spent another day working on it
I borrow VAG-Com from a friend of mine and timed the injection pump this morning. Got it well within the limits, but on the advanced side (good for Bio).
Checked on the error codes and had a good go at trying to stop the heater light from flashing (to no avail ). The EGR and throttle valve fault I'm not bothered about, they're not causing the heater light to flash. The ABS fault is inevitable as the ABS is still in the Seat Toledo (and doesn't work on wireless) but the brake implausibility thing is very annoying. I don't think I'll be able to fix it really so I'll get the black tape out and cover it up
I also activated the cruise control and am looking forward to trying that.
Found that the flexi joint in the exhaust is leaking oil, this is annoying firstly because I thought I'd got away with it, but it looks like I'll have to buy another one, but more to the point what the hell is oil doing in the exhaust!!!!! I guess the turbo might be tired, or perhaps this is normal??? (it has been idling for about 4 hours) After the injection timing didn't cure the smoke I tried ragging the hell out of it up and down the drive to get it nice and hot and it did stop smoking I'll have to see about the turbo when its on the road (watch for smoke and oil consumption).
I vacuum'd, cleaned and polished the paintwork with G10 finishing compound and normal car polish for hours to get rid of these very annoying stains, they did not want to shift!
The polishing is by no means finished, but here is a teaser
More to come
I borrow VAG-Com from a friend of mine and timed the injection pump this morning. Got it well within the limits, but on the advanced side (good for Bio).
Checked on the error codes and had a good go at trying to stop the heater light from flashing (to no avail
). The EGR and throttle valve fault I'm not bothered about, they're not causing the heater light to flash. The ABS fault is inevitable as the ABS is still in the Seat Toledo (and doesn't work on wireless) but the brake implausibility thing is very annoying. I don't think I'll be able to fix it really so I'll get the black tape out and cover it up I also activated the cruise control
and am looking forward to trying that. 
Found that the flexi joint in the exhaust is leaking oil, this is annoying firstly because I thought I'd got away with it, but it looks like I'll have to buy another one, but more to the point what the hell is oil doing in the exhaust!!!!! I guess the turbo might be tired, or perhaps this is normal??? (it has been idling for about 4 hours) After the injection timing didn't cure the smoke I tried ragging the hell out of it up and down the drive to get it nice and hot and it did stop smoking
I'll have to see about the turbo when its on the road (watch for smoke and oil consumption). 
I vacuum'd, cleaned and polished the paintwork with G10 finishing compound and normal car polish for hours to get rid of these very annoying stains, they did not want to shift!
The polishing is by no means finished, but here is a teaser
More to come
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