SW20 MR2 as a daily?
Discussion
Hello everyone. I currently own a Gen 7 Celica with the 140BHP engine, but recently been starting to look at UK spec MK2 MR2s again as always had a thing for these. I took one out for test drive a couple of years back and loved every moment of it. However, wondering if the N/A model still makes a good daily, in account of its age now, and also maintenance due to the limited engine access. I'm aware of checking when the cambelt was last done, and also the coolant. Also which is the best Rev to go for?
Could I still use an SW20 as an everyday car, or are they getting a bit too old for frequent use now?
Thanks.
Could I still use an SW20 as an everyday car, or are they getting a bit too old for frequent use now?
Thanks.
They are pretty much bulletproof.
Things to look out for are:
Crash damage (cheap + attractive to young people + RWD = crashy)
Rust in usual car places (as they are getting on - but overall they are pretty good)
Signs of poor maintenance (junky tires, worn breaks, coolant or oil the color of bongwater, bodge replacements like exhausts, interior parts etc)
They eat dizzy caps and wires, but they are inexpensive from Mr.T. The body is build like a tank, and the drive train is 90s Corolla mounted backwards.
Rev3 and onward cars are the best, with revised looks and suspension. Rev5 BEAMS imports with the vtec-like engine are the most sought after N/A cars, although imports.
Sonic Shadow (black over silver) is probably the most sought after color. T-tops will leak, but can be re-trimmed and silicon sealant helps.
Things to look out for are:
Crash damage (cheap + attractive to young people + RWD = crashy)
Rust in usual car places (as they are getting on - but overall they are pretty good)
Signs of poor maintenance (junky tires, worn breaks, coolant or oil the color of bongwater, bodge replacements like exhausts, interior parts etc)
They eat dizzy caps and wires, but they are inexpensive from Mr.T. The body is build like a tank, and the drive train is 90s Corolla mounted backwards.
Rev3 and onward cars are the best, with revised looks and suspension. Rev5 BEAMS imports with the vtec-like engine are the most sought after N/A cars, although imports.
Sonic Shadow (black over silver) is probably the most sought after color. T-tops will leak, but can be re-trimmed and silicon sealant helps.
Appreciate the question is about the NA but I ran a modified Rev 3 Turbo as my daily for 3 years until June last year (still regret selling it) and it was basically bulletproof. Needed a small amount of maintenance over my time with it:
- Sticky brake calipers
- Tie rod ends
- Handbrake cables
Other than regular oil changes (every 6k) a new distributor cap, plugs and filters that was it. Fantastic little car and I'm considering another I miss it so much.
- Sticky brake calipers
- Tie rod ends
- Handbrake cables
Other than regular oil changes (every 6k) a new distributor cap, plugs and filters that was it. Fantastic little car and I'm considering another I miss it so much.
Cal670 said:
Could I still use an SW20 as an everyday car, or are they getting a bit too old for frequent use now?
No reason why not. I know someone who has a Sonic Shadow Rev 5 as his daily driver and he does a lot of miles.Mind you he does his own maintenance which means no garage labour rates. Currently about to drop in a 3S-GTE turbo lump.
Other things to be aware of:
Knocking from the anti roll bar drop links front and rear. Easy and cheap to fix.
Loose, worn, or seized front strut topmounts.
The brake caliper issue will be sticking pistons/sliders. Easy fix with a repair kit if you can d-i-y.
The rubber gaitor at the rear of the handbrake cable perishes allowing water to get in.*
Cheap to fix but fiddly for d-i-y: to remove the undertray and reach the balance bar/adjuster you'll need a trolley jack and axle stands.
As mentioned: rust. Replacement sills are a problem. If it is too far gone you'll have two options.
Bodge it with one from a different make/model (Ford Ka) or find a really good fabricator.
A UK Rev 3 will be 20 years old or more. Forget about the odo reading: condition is everything.
They are cheap as chips to buy: as a result many have had owners who have skimped on maintenance.
The final version (Rev 5) was the run down prior to the introduction of the Mk3.
Production numbers tailed off rapidly at the end. The BEAMS version is as rare as rocking horse poo.
If the car is on stock 15" wheels you'll be very limited on decent rubber. Under no circumstances use cheap budget tyres.
The lack of choice is why you'll find a lot of Mk2s are on aftermarket alloys (some 16" but mostly 17").
Also make sure the geo is spot on. A 4 wheel alignment is a must imo.
My everyday runabout is the JDM G-Ltd version (grey import). In much better shape compared with most UK cars.
Only some minimal surface rust in the usual places.
I also have a Rev 5 turbo as a weekend toy.
Thank you for all the replies. Sounds like they'd still make perfectly good dailys aslong as maintenance is kept up then.
Yeah rust is what I was concerned about, but most of the ones I've seen for sale don't seem to suffer from it (not badly anyway). Again thanks for the the tips and advice everyone, and I know what you mean about the prices!
Yeah rust is what I was concerned about, but most of the ones I've seen for sale don't seem to suffer from it (not badly anyway). Again thanks for the the tips and advice everyone, and I know what you mean about the prices!
I daily mine - over 25k a year.
Mechanically it's fine - the NA engine is basic and will be fine as long as you keep on top of servicing. Seizing brakes is a common issue on an MR2, but frequent use actually helps prevent that.
Rust is the problem. This winter has taken its toll on my sills, so they'll need to be chopped out and replaced this year.
Regarding engine bay access - yeah, it can be difficult sometimes but TBH it's not all that different to a modern FWD 2.0L hatch really for access for most stuff.
My thread here - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Mechanically it's fine - the NA engine is basic and will be fine as long as you keep on top of servicing. Seizing brakes is a common issue on an MR2, but frequent use actually helps prevent that.
Rust is the problem. This winter has taken its toll on my sills, so they'll need to be chopped out and replaced this year.
Wadeski said:
They eat dizzy caps and wires, but they are inexpensive from Mr.T. The body is build like a tank, and the drive train is 90s Corolla mounted backwards.
have to disagree here. My old Rev4 had the same ignition components for 4 years / 60k miles before it was written off. This is only the case if you buy the really cheap ECP leads. Buy OE or Magnecor KV85's - they'll last.Regarding engine bay access - yeah, it can be difficult sometimes but TBH it's not all that different to a modern FWD 2.0L hatch really for access for most stuff.
My thread here - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Red Devil said:
I know someone who has a Sonic Shadow Rev 5 as his daily driver and he does a lot of miles.
Rub the lamp and out pops the genie... SonicShadow said:
My thread here - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
SonicShadow said:
It's a damn good colour combo though, 2nd only to Cosmos Blue on a Rev5 IMO!
Cal670 said:
Thank you for all the replies. Sounds like they'd still make perfectly good dailys aslong as maintenance is kept up then.
Yeah rust is what I was concerned about, but most of the ones I've seen for sale don't seem to suffer from it (not badly anyway). Again thanks for the the tips and advice everyone, and I know what you mean about the prices!
You'll not see it easily in most exterior photos - if you can, you're looking at an absolute bucket load of work (I had quotes of 4 figures just to bodge, £3k to do right)Yeah rust is what I was concerned about, but most of the ones I've seen for sale don't seem to suffer from it (not badly anyway). Again thanks for the the tips and advice everyone, and I know what you mean about the prices!
Lift up the boot carpet and there's these little bits in the corners where it drops down to meet the inner arch that rust something crazy. Also the inner rear arches and the end of the sills. Also, the sills are 2/3 layers and the middle one rusts up first, so by the time you can see it, it's already got hold.
In photos, look out for a thin crusty line on the little lip bit under the main chunk of the sill; it'll probably need some welding. If the main bit of the sill looks rusty, it'll be a nightmare as the inner sill will need loads of work by that point.
The positive news is that there's a couple of small companies doing aftermarket sills now, dunno of the quality.
Edited by ImpossiblyDaft on Tuesday 31st January 23:16
Full length replacement outer sills. If it has gone beyond that (see the link I posted earlier) you're looking at using a specialist fabricator.
Also, £3k means a lot more work than just the sills. It's in excess of what a n/a is worth. Walk away and try to find one in better condition.
Also, £3k means a lot more work than just the sills. It's in excess of what a n/a is worth. Walk away and try to find one in better condition.
Hey, just chiming in, I'm not dailying my MR2 but I drive it >4x/week and man is it a pleasure each time. Like what I did, I would advise to pay a bit more initially for one that has a FSH(or part at least) and no rust.
I paid 2800 for mine but it was almost flawless (apart from a heat shield rattle which I fixed easily and a couple of cosmetic interior flaws on the seats). It had a clutch replacement recently and NO rust. So... just my input I think they are DEFINITELY a great daily and man does it turn heads and pull when you need it being such a light car. Everyone says turbo is the way to go but IMHO I think the NA is way more reliable and as first reply says basically runs forever.
I paid 2800 for mine but it was almost flawless (apart from a heat shield rattle which I fixed easily and a couple of cosmetic interior flaws on the seats). It had a clutch replacement recently and NO rust. So... just my input I think they are DEFINITELY a great daily and man does it turn heads and pull when you need it being such a light car. Everyone says turbo is the way to go but IMHO I think the NA is way more reliable and as first reply says basically runs forever.
I ran a rev 3, import (has A/C), n/a tin top for just over 4 years as a daily
I don't have a bad word to say about it.
It's a really easy car to work on yourself if you have the space and tools.
If you aren't mechnically minded - do find a reputable garage that can carry out the work for you.
I can name a few I wouldn't go to when I had some issues back then.
Put some decent tyres on it, although as stated it comes with 15" wheels as standard. I used to use Toyo T1R's which were fine, although if you can a slightly larger wheel and maybe Michelin PS4.
A good set of coilovers for more control and comfort if you like pushing on or a bit of track fun.
I didn't have rust issues thinking back but probably worth getting a tin of POR15 to do some preventative treatment.
I didn't suffer any of the typical issues, so it pays to be patient and choose wisely.
I don't have a bad word to say about it.
It's a really easy car to work on yourself if you have the space and tools.
If you aren't mechnically minded - do find a reputable garage that can carry out the work for you.
I can name a few I wouldn't go to when I had some issues back then.
Put some decent tyres on it, although as stated it comes with 15" wheels as standard. I used to use Toyo T1R's which were fine, although if you can a slightly larger wheel and maybe Michelin PS4.
A good set of coilovers for more control and comfort if you like pushing on or a bit of track fun.
I didn't have rust issues thinking back but probably worth getting a tin of POR15 to do some preventative treatment.
I didn't suffer any of the typical issues, so it pays to be patient and choose wisely.
Like everyone says they're a practical daily if you only need 2 seats.
Boot size is good and they're good to drive.
I had an Mx5 then S2k and now a Rev4 Turbo that I have now had a while - I guess its a keeper at the mo.
I don't drive mine daily or all through winter, I'm a bit ham fisted with the throttle for that!
Gratuitous pic
Boot size is good and they're good to drive.
I had an Mx5 then S2k and now a Rev4 Turbo that I have now had a while - I guess its a keeper at the mo.
I don't drive mine daily or all through winter, I'm a bit ham fisted with the throttle for that!
Gratuitous pic
Try and get a jap import tin top rev3 around 94-96. They come with close to 180bhp and being jap import rust isn't a worry. There is no particular faults just age related stuff thermostats have a tendency to fail, better to buy one that hasn't been sitting to avoid warped discs and sticky callipers.
dufunk said:
Try and get a jap import tin top rev3 around 94-96. They come with close to 180bhp and being jap import rust isn't a worry. There is no particular faults just age related stuff thermostats have a tendency to fail, better to buy one that hasn't been sitting to avoid warped discs and sticky callipers.
Being a Japanese import doesn't make it immune to rust. An import that's been here for 15 years will rust just as much as a UK market car kept in similar conditions / with a similar amount of maintenance.I have owned a 1989 Mk2 Turbo since 1989. It has always started on the button, and the only time it broke down was when I had a blow-out and left the compact spare at home. Recovery from Ilford on the M25 to Barnet on the M25 was £500 (wheels and tyres were non-standard, and Kwik Fit didn't have the tyre I needed). Boy, did I fell like an idiot!!!!
I have to say the Turbo is on a different planet, and the import Targa roof is a real gas.
I have to say the Turbo is on a different planet, and the import Targa roof is a real gas.
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