MR2 Overheated - what to do?
Discussion
Hi all. My Fiancees much used and abused '91 MR2 import had it's first ever breakdown yesterday when it overheated in busy traffic.
It would appear that coolant had been leaking from the bottom of the radiator and the subsequent lack of coolant caused the overheating.
Problem 1) In order to get us home the AA bloke topped the system up with water instead of forlife. Do I need to flush it out and if so, to what level? Do I now have to change the hoses too?
Problem 2) What would be a sensible price for a reconditioned radiator and where could I get one? The AA bloke reccommended a japanese breakers on Wimbledon but I can't remember the name. Any ideas?
Anything else I should consider?
Any help appreciated, cheers!
It would appear that coolant had been leaking from the bottom of the radiator and the subsequent lack of coolant caused the overheating.
Problem 1) In order to get us home the AA bloke topped the system up with water instead of forlife. Do I need to flush it out and if so, to what level? Do I now have to change the hoses too?
Problem 2) What would be a sensible price for a reconditioned radiator and where could I get one? The AA bloke reccommended a japanese breakers on Wimbledon but I can't remember the name. Any ideas?
Anything else I should consider?
Any help appreciated, cheers!
I had this happen in my old na. It never did any damage, that I know of, and was just a case of replacing the rad.get the coolant flushed immediately. Water will corrode certain gaskets, I believe. You should be ale to get a reconditioned rad from somewhere or other. Try and ask around a radiator places local to you. Or, if you want to get a scrappy rad, try 247spares.com, and put in what you need. They were great for my old astra gte. They normally deliver pretty quick too.
Not really sure what else would need replacing, so I'd just go with complete flush, and new/recon rad.
Not really sure what else would need replacing, so I'd just go with complete flush, and new/recon rad.
I've had a couple of radiators "recored", they basically take your old rad remove the solid end bits and replace the matrix. The last one cost about £50 and was done in a couple of hours. Look in the yellow pages under radiator services. (If you're near Bristol then I can recommend someone.)
Had two responses through 24/7 spares and a third is getting back to me shortly.
So far...
Second hand rad at £85 incl. delivery.
Brand new at £158 incl. delivery.
Do these sound appropriate and should I go the second hand route or brand new?
As always, your advice is much appricated.
So far...
Second hand rad at £85 incl. delivery.
Brand new at £158 incl. delivery.
Do these sound appropriate and should I go the second hand route or brand new?
As always, your advice is much appricated.
groomi said:
Had two responses through 24/7 spares and a third is getting back to me shortly.
So far...
Second hand rad at £85 incl. delivery.
Brand new at £158 incl. delivery.
Do these sound appropriate and should I go the second hand route or brand new?
As always, your advice is much appricated.
A brand new radiator cost me 115 (may or may not have been inclusive of VAT) i think....that was from these gentlemen www.roguesystems.co.uk
Personally, I'd go for a new one, seems like a false economy to go for a second hand one to me.
Update... Got a reconditioned radiator through 24/7 spares for £99 including delivery and VAT.
Am now in the process of carrying out the job.
MR2 in surgery for lung transplant.
Offending item, showing where leak has ran down side of old radiator.
Void lef by old rad.... didn't know there was a second core installed just infront!
Is this normal and how does it work as there doesn't seem to be any pipes running to it? 
Will be installing the new rad this afternoon after getting along to halfrauds for some new runner hose - gave up after an hour of trying to remove it and cut it off instead.
All good fun - just hope it works when I get everything back together.
Am now in the process of carrying out the job.
MR2 in surgery for lung transplant.
Offending item, showing where leak has ran down side of old radiator.
Void lef by old rad.... didn't know there was a second core installed just infront!
Is this normal and how does it work as there doesn't seem to be any pipes running to it? Will be installing the new rad this afternoon after getting along to halfrauds for some new runner hose - gave up after an hour of trying to remove it and cut it off instead.
All good fun - just hope it works when I get everything back together.
Arrrgghh. Doesn't feel like it at the moment.
Just wasted 2 hours trying to find somewhere that could sell me some axle stands as I can't reach the engine coolant drain plug without them.
Have also had to order the hoses from Toyota dealer as I didn't realise they were model specific before cutting them off.
Note to self... don't ever cut anything. Perservere, until it is removed properly.
Just wasted 2 hours trying to find somewhere that could sell me some axle stands as I can't reach the engine coolant drain plug without them.
Have also had to order the hoses from Toyota dealer as I didn't realise they were model specific before cutting them off.
Note to self... don't ever cut anything. Perservere, until it is removed properly.
Arrrggghhhh!!! I can't find the drain plug to drain the remainder of the coolant from the engine. I have been working from the discription below, but don't have the handbook it refers to for pictures. Can anybody help?
"Now we are ready for the really fun part. The engine block plug. If you have never had this out before, it is going to be one mother bear to remove. So assemble your 1/2 drive breaker bar, your 6 inch extension and your 14mm socket, and get under the car with your feet pointing directly to the rear of the car, and your head to the front of the car. Slide under until your head is just forward of the drive shaft comming out of the diff. That is the passengers side drive shaft (US). Now look up (you will need some light on the subject), as you look up you will see a short support brace piece, right at the end that connects to the block, look just to the right of it, the end screw on the brace almost hides the drain plug. Believe it or not there is enough clearance to put a socket on it. The drain plug is there next to one of the engine block freeze plugs. It is kind of there all by itself, so you will be sure that you have the right one. It is just to the right of the screw holding the brace piece on."
Help please...
"Now we are ready for the really fun part. The engine block plug. If you have never had this out before, it is going to be one mother bear to remove. So assemble your 1/2 drive breaker bar, your 6 inch extension and your 14mm socket, and get under the car with your feet pointing directly to the rear of the car, and your head to the front of the car. Slide under until your head is just forward of the drive shaft comming out of the diff. That is the passengers side drive shaft (US). Now look up (you will need some light on the subject), as you look up you will see a short support brace piece, right at the end that connects to the block, look just to the right of it, the end screw on the brace almost hides the drain plug. Believe it or not there is enough clearance to put a socket on it. The drain plug is there next to one of the engine block freeze plugs. It is kind of there all by itself, so you will be sure that you have the right one. It is just to the right of the screw holding the brace piece on."
Help please...
groomi said:
Arrrggghhhh!!! I can't find the drain plug to drain the remainder of the coolant from the engine. I have been working from the discription below, but don't have the handbook it refers to for pictures. Can anybody help?
"Now we are ready for the really fun part. The engine block plug. If you have never had this out before, it is going to be one mother bear to remove. So assemble your 1/2 drive breaker bar, your 6 inch extension and your 14mm socket, and get under the car with your feet pointing directly to the rear of the car, and your head to the front of the car. Slide under until your head is just forward of the drive shaft comming out of the diff. That is the passengers side drive shaft (US). Now look up (you will need some light on the subject), as you look up you will see a short support brace piece, right at the end that connects to the block, look just to the right of it, the end screw on the brace almost hides the drain plug. Believe it or not there is enough clearance to put a socket on it. The drain plug is there next to one of the engine block freeze plugs. It is kind of there all by itself, so you will be sure that you have the right one. It is just to the right of the screw holding the brace piece on."
Help please...
Why bother draining it? With the rad removed, there will be enough out of the system anyway to allow you to add the correct amount of anti-freeze to result in correct dilution....
jap-car said:
Arrrggghhhh!!! I can't find the drain plug to drain the remainder of the coolant from the engine. I have been working from the discription below, but don't have the handbook it refers to for pictures. Can anybody help?
"Now we are ready for the really fun part. The engine block plug. If you have never had this out before, it is going to be one mother bear to remove. So assemble your 1/2 drive breaker bar, your 6 inch extension and your 14mm socket, and get under the car with your feet pointing directly to the rear of the car, and your head to the front of the car. Slide under until your head is just forward of the drive shaft comming out of the diff. That is the passengers side drive shaft (US). Now look up (you will need some light on the subject), as you look up you will see a short support brace piece, right at the end that connects to the block, look just to the right of it, the end screw on the brace almost hides the drain plug. Believe it or not there is enough clearance to put a socket on it. The drain plug is there next to one of the engine block freeze plugs. It is kind of there all by itself, so you will be sure that you have the right one. It is just to the right of the screw holding the brace piece on."
Help please...
Why bother draining it? With the rad removed, there will be enough out of the system anyway to allow you to add the correct amount of anti-freeze to result in correct dilution....
Water had to be added to the system in order to get me home when it overheated. The cooling system is designed for oil based coolan (forlife) not water, therefore the possiblilty exists that various gaskets and pipes could fail due to exposure to water.
It is possible that the amount of water left in the system is so small it makes no difference, but having gone to this much trouble, I'd be mighty peeved should anything else fail as a result, later on.
groomi said:
Water had to be added to the system in order to get me home when it overheated. The cooling system is designed for oil based coolan (forlife) not water, therefore the possiblilty exists that various gaskets and pipes could fail due to exposure to water.
It is possible that the amount of water left in the system is so small it makes no difference, but having gone to this much trouble, I'd be mighty peeved should anything else fail as a result, later on.
Why do you think ForLife is oil based?
I'm almost certain that Toyota For Life is water based and is just prediluted standard coolant (ie it contains water) and no harm comes of putting any other good quality coolant in there (with water) and it mixing with ForLife.
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