Toyota Aygo servicing - what's required at each service?

[mccrackenj]

Hi all

Can anyone post or e-m me the servicing schedule for a Citroen C1, Toyota Aygo or Peugeot 107 petrol - I need to know what needs done a 12/24/36 months or 10k/20k/30k miles.

Thanks

John

[swannynhb]

as im sure you know they are on 10k/1 year service intervals, they are as follows: (this is for the C1, i know these as i work for a citroen dealer!)

10k is just a oil and filter change, and pollen filter if fitted, plus all the normal checks including coolant, brake fluid, condition of gaitors, exhuast, brakes, clutch travel, lights etc etc

20k and 30k are the same

40k is all the above plus air filter and plugs (plus the fuel filter if its the 1.4hdi)plus a few additional checks, play in hubs, link rods, ball joints and pivots. sealing of dampers, brake calipers,discs and pipes, rear brake liners, tension of accessory belt

60k normal service plus check valve clearances

70k 80k and 90k standard service

100k standard service plus coolant change, then change coolant every 40k after

120k fuel filter on petrol

timing belt on 1.4 hdi is every 160k or ten years, petrol model is chain driven

brake fluid change every 2 years

air con check is recommeded every 2 years


hope this helps

[mccrackenj]

Swannynhb - that's excellent! Everything I need to know and more.

Cheers


Actually - if I could bother you further - what sort of price would a Citroen main dealer charge for the 10k?

Edited by mccrackenj on Sunday 9th May 14:55

[swannynhb]

i work in sales so im not 100% sure but i thinks its around £160, the local toyota dealer charges £99 for the service so i know we match it if we have to! you may know that in order to keep the manufactures warranty valid you only need to have the car serviced at a vat registered garage using genuine parts, so it can be any garage you like. if you do this make sure they check the clutch travel as we have had lots of clutches go within 10k miles. also if you are planning to get rid of it after a few years 3 citroen stamps look better than 3 stamps from kwikfit!

Edited by swannynhb on Sunday 9th May 15:13

[mccrackenj]

Thanks for replying again so quickly. Thanks for the info, very useful - especially on the clutch travel. I knew about not theoretically having to go to a main dealer, but would prefer to just in case it gives them any chance to wriggle out of a any potential warranty problem in the future.

Basically I've agreed to buy a C1 but the choice came down to a brand new unregistered red VT with the 3 years servicing package for £6995 or an already registered VT in metallic blue with 10 miles on clock for the same price - but they wouldn't include the 3 year servicing package. I see from the website that I can buy it separately for £199, but the small print says it's only on new cars and they might argue that the blue one isn't new as it's already registered, so they won't let me buy the package.

I was just trying to get an idea of the value of the 3 year package to consider my options, hence my post.

Thanks for the info

Cheers again

[swannynhb]

personally i'd go for the new one, the servicing deal is a good one, and it includes the brake fluid change after 2 years

[ivangill]

Having read a few forums on what oils and additives to use I came to the conclusion that additives these days were likely to cause more harm than good. Synthetic oils have advanced a long way in recent decades and engine tolerances seem to have tightened to take advantage of them.

If you want to get sense of how they have evolved I can recommend this tool

https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html#

There seems to be a heirachy of specifications, API (like 5w-30) , ACEA (like C2) and manufacturers specifications. If you buy an oil off the shelf using just the API or even the ACEA rating, you are likely buying an inferior oil for your car. The tool above will be able to confirm this and confirm in what areas it is inferior such as;

Fuel economy
Soot Thickening
After treatment compatibility
Oxadative Thickening
Piston Deposits
Sludge
Wear

I would strongly recommend checking current manufacturers specification for your car and buying an oil that meets that spec. For instance the spec for my 2013 C1 spec is;

Fully Synthetic
5W/30
ACEA-C2
PSA B71 2290

The PSA rating is superior ot the ACEA-C2 rating as can be seen on the tool, so most C2 oils will not suffice. Most importantly, don't rely on websites where you enter your registration and have oil suggested, I have checked and most operate on out of date specifiactions (recomending 10W40 C3 oils for example which a considerabley inferior (and a bit cheaper). Manufacturers seem to put a lot of work into creating and testing their own specifications, I doubt any third party has done a similar amount of testing. Many independent garages use these website tools to buy the correct oil so I would not be surprised that more often than not you get the wrong oil in your car. I did on 3 attempts at the same garage!