850 CSi - first steps

850 CSi - first steps

Author
Discussion

rm163603

656 posts

247 months

Wednesday 22nd January 2014
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That rust looks cosmetic and not a problem. I'd just spray some wd40 on it to stop it getting any worse in the short term.

Have you had a good poke around underneath? Jacking points etc...

Its survived well by the looks of it...

rm163603

656 posts

247 months

Wednesday 22nd January 2014
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Edited by rm163603 on Wednesday 22 January 19:43

FilH

588 posts

143 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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following with interest.

quite rare the 6 spped manual box.


the rubber hoses like to perish and cause vacuum leaks often I find on the v12 and they are a pain to get at most of the time.

8Tech

2,136 posts

197 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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All CSi's are 6 speed manuals. The only vacuum hoses to look at are the breather valve hoses at the front on the cam covers. It's the valves that occasionally give problems, but that is through fouling-up, something that car will not have at 35000m. The 2 hoses at the front of the engine that go to the electric breather vent valves are pretty bulletproof.
You will probably need to replace the auxiliary drivebelts too as they will possibly crack and definately be hardened.
You could check the hoses to the fuel pressure regulators on the fuel rails (remembering they cross over) and in any case, I would closely watch the fuel rail hoses at the front and rear of the fuel rails when you attempt to start it. These regularly leak through age hardening.

niki0712

Original Poster:

135 posts

122 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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8Tech said:
64319071932 Microfilter, 2 required
12129065062 plugs, 12 required
12111725070 distributor cap, 2 required
12111734110 rotor, 2 required.

Get the caps and rotors aftermarket for a 325i though. If you get aftermarket plugs then STANDARD cheap NGK's are the best, platinums and iridiums do not work with the stock coils.
Right, I promise not to always go to BMW but at the moment that is just a very easy source for parts. But oh so expensive...

Microfilters are ordered
11 plugs are ordered, one more to come from Germany
distributor caps are ordered (I bit the bullet and went original, 8Tech, rather than 325i - the price really is eyewatering though. Lesson learned.)
Rotors are ordered.

All here tomorrow, then I will be prepared for Saturday.

My friend Philipp helping me on Saturday just raised the question what we are gonna do with 70l of old petrol (judging by the cockpit picture). Any suggestions?

niki0712

Original Poster:

135 posts

122 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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What is a reasonable price for brake pads? Are there brand preferences?

GaryThomlinson

537 posts

174 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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Whatever you do, don't just throw the petrol down the drain because that could be rather disastrous (I know it sounds sill to say but I've heard all sorts in my time). You will need to locate some large fuel containers (more cost likely) and then take this to a local council or private dangerous/hazardous liquids disposal site. Failing that, google for mobile services that dispose of hazardous liquids as sometimes you can get a tanker to come round and pump it out.

FilH

588 posts

143 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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8Tech said:
All CSi's are 6 speed manuals.
yeah , really meant finding an 850 with a manual box is quite rare and command a much higher price over an auto model.


my e38s air intake hoses had perished causing a few missfires also the oil breather hoses near the filler cap.


Blu3R

2,362 posts

198 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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It's not possible for you to put up too many pictures of this for my liking!

pits

6,423 posts

189 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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niki0712 said:
What is a reasonable price for brake pads? Are there brand preferences?
BMW OEM pads, yes they are £108 for the front set but they fit and they are very good.
I will be fair the 8er does get a bad rep for being a troublesome car, but that is usually down to them being run on a shoestring, a deep wallet will be needed but there is nothing like an 8er in the world.

I can't say anything that hasn't really been echoed, I would really consider getting a good overhaul on the engine before starting it, it will cost but the cost will be worth it. I would just go through everything starting at each corner, suspension, calipers, pads, lines, cables.

Good project though, and you are going to need a bigger tool kit, though the tool kit will be smaller than the hole in your wallet

8Tech

2,136 posts

197 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
quotequote all
GaryThomlinson said:
Whatever you do, don't just throw the petrol down the drain because that could be rather disastrous (I know it sounds sill to say but I've heard all sorts in my time). You will need to locate some large fuel containers (more cost likely) and then take this to a local council or private dangerous/hazardous liquids disposal site. Failing that, google for mobile services that dispose of hazardous liquids as sometimes you can get a tanker to come round and pump it out.
If it were my fuel, I would put a gallon of it in every tankful of fresh fuel until I had used it all on another car. It will only be the octane slightly lower and any water or muck can be thrown then. I have run vehicles on pure 20+ year old fuel before without diluting it with fresh fuel with absolutely no issues, you just dont want to do it on the CSi because if you did have a running issue, you would always suspect the fuel anyway.

The Stiglet

2,062 posts

193 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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Great thread, beautiful car - my favourite. Can't believe how well it looks.

Good luck this weekend!

Simon530dGT

5 posts

122 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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Put the fuel on eBay, someone will take it.

niki0712

Original Poster:

135 posts

122 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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niki0712

Original Poster:

135 posts

122 months

Friday 24th January 2014
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Tim Meek talks about replacing an O ring and a copper washer when changing the oil filter. Are those OEM BMW or can I get those from anywhere like Halfords?

R12HCO

826 posts

158 months

Friday 24th January 2014
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I would leave the fuel. Its been in a sealed tank so in theory should be fine. I would probably filled it to the brim with v-power and a fuel additive to raise the octane just to make sure.

P924

1,272 posts

181 months

Friday 24th January 2014
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That looks great. Can't really add much constructive, but I'd look at which parts were also used on the lower model BM's too, makes ebay searches much easier. (I'm not suggesting you buy 2nd hand consumables)

Blu3R

2,362 posts

198 months

Friday 24th January 2014
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8Tech said:
If it were my fuel, I would put a gallon of it in every tankful of fresh fuel until I had used it all on another car.
+1 That's what I'd do.

Markgenesis

536 posts

131 months

Friday 24th January 2014
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niki0712 said:
Tim Meek talks about replacing an O ring and a copper washer when changing the oil filter. Are those OEM BMW or can I get those from anywhere like Halfords?
The O ring will be the large one that goes around the large screw on cap on the oil filter housing, it sould be included in the new oil filter kit, the copper washer will be for the sump plug.

Very entertaining thread, full of usefull stuff (i didn't know to use cheap NGK plugs on the V12) cant wait to see more pics smile

O/P i've been messing with cars for 27 years (used to be a mechanic) currently have a 96 E38 V12 but you have bigger balls than me to take this 8 on laugh

It wont be cheap or easy, if you are unsure of anything ask/research, dont cut corners or bodge anything, it WILL be worth it in the end, it's a rare and desireable CSI

Adrian E

3,248 posts

175 months

Friday 24th January 2014
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Liking this thread a lot!

What's the story behind the car in terms of where/how you found it and why it'd been left to stand for so long?

Those tyres will be absolutely toast - where in Surrey are you based as may be able to recommend somewhere to get some. Can also recommend a wheel refurbishers if near Gatwick. I'd stick with OEM fitment on tyre make if possible, or something equivalent like the Michelin Super Sports.

If you want to try and dry the boot out you could stick a dehumidifier in there and build a makeshift tent with some plastic sheeting, or put a fairly large quantity of silica water absorbers in there - you can buy it in bulk and stick it in a cat litter tray or similar. Wait till the car is recommissioned and in use to figure out if you need new seals on the bootlid. That surface rust will need treating at some point but it's clearly going to need to see a bodyshop for the rust bubbling around the front panel so I'm sure they can sort it too.

Good luck - can't be many around, if any, with that low a mileage. Bought my S8 3 years ago with similar mileage but fortunately for me it'd been used lightly throughout its life so didn't have to make it a project!