Sagging e46 coupe door trim - how i fixed it
Discussion
I know this is a widespread issue amongst coupes and I had 2 top sections of my drivers side trim hanging off so thought id share my fix
Theres tons of info on this on the various fora with fixes ranging from fitting new trims, removing the trim altogether, using glue, using butyl tape or leaving them alone altogether!
I opted for the butyl tape route which I sourced from ebay. important to get the right size so it fits neatly within the underside of the seal - around 9-10mm wide would be okay. similarly, try to get thin tape, mine was about 3mm, so that it doesn't force the trim to project more than required. at the factory, these trims are fixed using glue so best to get the thinnest tape possible for a close to factory finish as possible.
preparation is key. trace back the offending trim to the nearest point where it is no longer lifting... this may mean you end up taking the whole lot off or perhaps just a localised area. once you meet significant resistance then this is where the fix between the trim and beading that it fixes to is still good. try pulling it too much and you risk damaging the trim.
start work from this area by rubbing down both the bead and the trim. you need to remove as much of the original glue as possible and in doing so you remove the sheen that will stop the butyl tape achieving good purchase. I didn't have any wet/dry paper so had to carefully use some 400 grit sandpaper. once done dust off all rubbed surfaces with lint free cloth - microfiber or tack tape. do the same again but then with degreasing agent. I used brake cleaner but be careful only to apply to the offending surfaces.
once dry then offer the butyl tape to the inside of the trim and start at the topmost part of the trim and work towards bottom
be sure to keep the tape taut to avoid any creasing. do this until you cant go any further and then trim off with sharp blade.
check your work and then work the length of the tape into the trim ensuring that the tape has firmly stuck to the trim and iron our creases or wrinkles if there are any
now the important bit. with your trim good to go you now need to start offering it up to the bead. you should be able to follow a light indentation on the headlining to guide your path. take your time and get it right first time.
once the trim was located in situ, for good measure I applied automotive masking tape at right angles to the trim at 4" intervals and then closed the door and left overnight before removing the masking tape.
the result? well 3 days in and the trim still appears to be firmly in place but time will tell!
Theres tons of info on this on the various fora with fixes ranging from fitting new trims, removing the trim altogether, using glue, using butyl tape or leaving them alone altogether!
I opted for the butyl tape route which I sourced from ebay. important to get the right size so it fits neatly within the underside of the seal - around 9-10mm wide would be okay. similarly, try to get thin tape, mine was about 3mm, so that it doesn't force the trim to project more than required. at the factory, these trims are fixed using glue so best to get the thinnest tape possible for a close to factory finish as possible.
preparation is key. trace back the offending trim to the nearest point where it is no longer lifting... this may mean you end up taking the whole lot off or perhaps just a localised area. once you meet significant resistance then this is where the fix between the trim and beading that it fixes to is still good. try pulling it too much and you risk damaging the trim.
start work from this area by rubbing down both the bead and the trim. you need to remove as much of the original glue as possible and in doing so you remove the sheen that will stop the butyl tape achieving good purchase. I didn't have any wet/dry paper so had to carefully use some 400 grit sandpaper. once done dust off all rubbed surfaces with lint free cloth - microfiber or tack tape. do the same again but then with degreasing agent. I used brake cleaner but be careful only to apply to the offending surfaces.
once dry then offer the butyl tape to the inside of the trim and start at the topmost part of the trim and work towards bottom
be sure to keep the tape taut to avoid any creasing. do this until you cant go any further and then trim off with sharp blade.
check your work and then work the length of the tape into the trim ensuring that the tape has firmly stuck to the trim and iron our creases or wrinkles if there are any
now the important bit. with your trim good to go you now need to start offering it up to the bead. you should be able to follow a light indentation on the headlining to guide your path. take your time and get it right first time.
once the trim was located in situ, for good measure I applied automotive masking tape at right angles to the trim at 4" intervals and then closed the door and left overnight before removing the masking tape.
the result? well 3 days in and the trim still appears to be firmly in place but time will tell!
BMWNICK said:
Alternatively use epoxy glue where you mix two parts together and spread it on. Homebase do one where you have both syringes in a single dispenser which works well. Did this a year ago and it has held up perfectly.
Will be interesting to see how long the tape lasts.
interesting as this was my first thought but then having seen how many folks tried araldite and other similar and even hairier 2 part epoxy resins try and fail steered me to the butyl tape where I couldn't find one instance of recurrence!Will be interesting to see how long the tape lasts.
time will tell!
I've done this repair on a friends car, he'd tried supper glue and that really does NOT work! It's too brittle and just cracks off.
I used impact adhesive, a thin coat on either side, let it dry for 15 minutes then push the surfaces together. As far as I know it's still holding up 4 years later.
I used impact adhesive, a thin coat on either side, let it dry for 15 minutes then push the surfaces together. As far as I know it's still holding up 4 years later.
I thought the butyl tape solution required more time and care than I possessed, while the two-part epoxy cure seemed like overkill. So, I went for cheap and simple impact adhesive. However, immediately after pressing the two surfaces together, I applied short strips of masking tape at right angles to the trim, closed the door on it, and left it for 24 hours. The tape was removed carefully, making sure not to let it pull at the newly-glued trim.
It's been a week since and all seems to be well. In any case, if the trim does come loose again, it's no problem to clean the old glue off and try another approach.
It's been a week since and all seems to be well. In any case, if the trim does come loose again, it's no problem to clean the old glue off and try another approach.
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