E36 328i service info req'd please!
Discussion
It's coming round to that time of year again and I'll be doing the following service items on the car but wondered if there's anything else I should be doing?
To be done:
To be done:
- Oil change (6.5L 5w40 fully synthetic)
- Oil filter
- Air filter (although I may leave this as it was changed last year and the car's only done about 6k miles - I'll see how it looks)
- Cabin filter (I didn't change this last year)
You might as well take a look at the spark plugs, I like to check mine while I'm doing an oil change and it's not like they're much trouble on the E36. I'd also give your brakes a quick check if you're going to have the car in the air anyway, inside pads wear out a lot quicker than the outside ones that you can see through the wheel spokes.
I might attract some attention for this, but if the car's only driven normally on the road and the brake pedal feels firm, I wouldn't worry about the brake fluid. IMO you're more likely to make things worse by not bleeding it perfectly than to run into any problems with the old fluid.
I might attract some attention for this, but if the car's only driven normally on the road and the brake pedal feels firm, I wouldn't worry about the brake fluid. IMO you're more likely to make things worse by not bleeding it perfectly than to run into any problems with the old fluid.
Cheers McSam. Pads were changed last year on the front and the rears the year before. As mentioned earlier I'm only doing around 6k a year at the moment so the pads should be fine for a while yet. I'll probably do discs and pads together next time. The brake fluid was changed 2 years ago and the pedal feel is fine and it stops well enough so I may take your advice on that one.
I'll see how it goes on the MOT and whether anything major comes up. The front shocks were done last year and the bushes were changed about 18 months back. Given the low (and if I'm honest) relatively gentle life it has I'm hoping the wear and tear is relatively mild.
I'll see how it goes on the MOT and whether anything major comes up. The front shocks were done last year and the bushes were changed about 18 months back. Given the low (and if I'm honest) relatively gentle life it has I'm hoping the wear and tear is relatively mild.
Sounds about right. Tbh, I replace the spark plugs annually too, it's not much money in the scheme of things (typically NGK plugs). I bloody hate doing the pollen filter swap.
I use 10w/40 semi synth (Castrol though also used Halfords and ECP/Triple QX) in my 328.
I use 10w/40 semi synth (Castrol though also used Halfords and ECP/Triple QX) in my 328.
McSam said:
I might attract some attention for this, but if the car's only driven normally on the road and the brake pedal feels firm, I wouldn't worry about the brake fluid. IMO you're more likely to make things worse by not bleeding it perfectly than to run into any problems with the old fluid.
Bad idea. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so will contain more and more moisture over time.The rated wet temperatures are based on 1yr/3percent content.
If you leave old fluid in there the iron parts (i.e. the calipers) will corrode internally and produce crap which may then get caught in the caliper seal. This is the main reason why calipers seize up - because people don't replace fluid on an annual basis.
Also, for servicing details, do a search for Mike Miller BMW and you should find a PDF of what to service and when.
Also, while on the topic of brakes... brakes need servicing - i.e. take them apart, lubricate moving parts etc. Are the guide pins in good condition (they do corrode eventually if not kept clean and lubricated and may need replacing).
Loads of stuff needs visually inspecing on a regular basis.
The Haynes manual has a good checklist and you may want to start there.
Loads of stuff needs visually inspecing on a regular basis.
The Haynes manual has a good checklist and you may want to start there.
jz325i said:
Bad idea. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so will contain more and more moisture over time.
The rated wet temperatures are based on 1yr/3percent content.
If you leave old fluid in there the iron parts (i.e. the calipers) will corrode internally and produce crap which may then get caught in the caliper seal. This is the main reason why calipers seize up - because people don't replace fluid on an annual basis.
Also, for servicing details, do a search for Mike Miller BMW and you should find a PDF of what to service and when.
The amount of ruined ABS modulators I have witnessed over the years due to knackered fluid even inc Honda's etc, ignore BFC's at your peril.The rated wet temperatures are based on 1yr/3percent content.
If you leave old fluid in there the iron parts (i.e. the calipers) will corrode internally and produce crap which may then get caught in the caliper seal. This is the main reason why calipers seize up - because people don't replace fluid on an annual basis.
Also, for servicing details, do a search for Mike Miller BMW and you should find a PDF of what to service and when.
I did say I might attract some attention for that 
I know about brake fluid, it's hygroscopic, and of course it can deteriorate over very long periods but it does not absorb significant quantities of water out of nowhere. E36s are quite sensitive to compromised brake fluid and show it with a long, soft pedal, which is why I advised that if the pedal still feels firm and the car isn't used on track, it shouldn't be a major concern. If the OP's car had a change two years ago and sees only light use, no problem.
I agree that very hydrated fluid can cause corrosion and, in extreme cases, caliper seizing or ABS issues but certainly not from being left for two years in a healthy system. You see that from cars neglected for half their life. I'm not saying don't ever worry about it, but I stand by suggesting that good fluid is better left alone than being aerated by someone unfamiliar with bleeding procedures.
I know about brake fluid, it's hygroscopic, and of course it can deteriorate over very long periods but it does not absorb significant quantities of water out of nowhere. E36s are quite sensitive to compromised brake fluid and show it with a long, soft pedal, which is why I advised that if the pedal still feels firm and the car isn't used on track, it shouldn't be a major concern. If the OP's car had a change two years ago and sees only light use, no problem.
I agree that very hydrated fluid can cause corrosion and, in extreme cases, caliper seizing or ABS issues but certainly not from being left for two years in a healthy system. You see that from cars neglected for half their life. I'm not saying don't ever worry about it, but I stand by suggesting that good fluid is better left alone than being aerated by someone unfamiliar with bleeding procedures.
McSam said:
I did say I might attract some attention for that
I know about brake fluid, it's hygroscopic, and of course it can deteriorate over very long periods but it does not absorb significant quantities of water out of nowhere. E36s are quite sensitive to compromised brake fluid and show it with a long, soft pedal, which is why I advised that if the pedal still feels firm and the car isn't used on track, it shouldn't be a major concern. If the OP's car had a change two years ago and sees only light use, no problem.
I agree that very hydrated fluid can cause corrosion and, in extreme cases, caliper seizing or ABS issues but certainly not from being left for two years in a healthy system. You see that from cars neglected for half their life. I'm not saying don't ever worry about it, but I stand by suggesting that good fluid is better left alone than being aerated by someone unfamiliar with bleeding procedures.
I wasn't having a pop at you directly just what I have seen, I understand your view.I know about brake fluid, it's hygroscopic, and of course it can deteriorate over very long periods but it does not absorb significant quantities of water out of nowhere. E36s are quite sensitive to compromised brake fluid and show it with a long, soft pedal, which is why I advised that if the pedal still feels firm and the car isn't used on track, it shouldn't be a major concern. If the OP's car had a change two years ago and sees only light use, no problem.
I agree that very hydrated fluid can cause corrosion and, in extreme cases, caliper seizing or ABS issues but certainly not from being left for two years in a healthy system. You see that from cars neglected for half their life. I'm not saying don't ever worry about it, but I stand by suggesting that good fluid is better left alone than being aerated by someone unfamiliar with bleeding procedures.
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