Z3 2.8 questions.
Discussion
I've just got a Z3 as a summer (!) runabout. Does it get any benefit from Vpower etc fuels or is ordinary perfectly fine? I ran my old car on vpower but it was a late 2001 so I'm assuming it would have got some benefit but the BMW might not.
I also checked the VIN thingy for mine (brilliant tool) and I have a
940 SPECIAL REQUEST EQUIPMENT.
Is that likely to be the CD autochanger itself or is there something else it could be?
I also have the standard 16 inch wheels with 225/50 R16s on them all round. What are the generally recommended tyre pressures to be running?
I also checked the VIN thingy for mine (brilliant tool) and I have a
940 SPECIAL REQUEST EQUIPMENT.
Is that likely to be the CD autochanger itself or is there something else it could be?
I also have the standard 16 inch wheels with 225/50 R16s on them all round. What are the generally recommended tyre pressures to be running?
It may depend on the year and engine. My 2.2 M54 engine with fly-by-wire throttle (God damn the things!) does rev more freely and seems to redline later when on V-Max vs. 95 Ron unleaded. I suspect the knock sensor allows more ignition advance. You should join Zroadster.net and ask over there.
Massive difference.
Mine sounded like a sewing machine on 98/99 and used to pull better, also saw around 33 average running it. The minute my wife filled up with 95 I thought there was an issue, it sounded tappety and there was almost a slight hesitation as you accelerated, the mpg dropped considerably too, it finished at 28mpg. Took two tanks of Shell 98 to get it back to normal.
The knock sensors may have sorted the tappety noise out after a couple of tanks of 95 but why bother? The mpg meant it was costing more to run it on 95 by some margin.
Mine sounded like a sewing machine on 98/99 and used to pull better, also saw around 33 average running it. The minute my wife filled up with 95 I thought there was an issue, it sounded tappety and there was almost a slight hesitation as you accelerated, the mpg dropped considerably too, it finished at 28mpg. Took two tanks of Shell 98 to get it back to normal.
The knock sensors may have sorted the tappety noise out after a couple of tanks of 95 but why bother? The mpg meant it was costing more to run it on 95 by some margin.
Oh and idiot's request... any tips on finding reverse gear more often?? I seem to get first 90% of the time even if I push the gear stick right over to the left most position in the gate. I had a 1 series diesel briefly and finding reverse was just as difficult so I'm assuming it is a bmw quirk rather than something failing in the linkage.
I tried the Redline D4 as well, which is what I think I preferred in the end. From memory the D4 felt thinner, the gear changes a little slicker, and I am sure you have to be a little more careful with hard changes to protect things, but it was extremely crisp and very nice to use.
Also, make sure your car has not got the Clutch Delay Valve, if it has take that straight out.
Also, make sure your car has not got the Clutch Delay Valve, if it has take that straight out.
Turns out someone has already taken out the clutch delay valve...
I'm also wondering what is the minimum temperature you can safely operate the hood in without cracking the plastic rear screen? Owner manual says 0c but I've cracked one before at about 10/12C as the car was in the shade... I also don't know whether the hood is an original one or a replacement so they may be better or worse than original.
I'm also wondering what is the minimum temperature you can safely operate the hood in without cracking the plastic rear screen? Owner manual says 0c but I've cracked one before at about 10/12C as the car was in the shade... I also don't know whether the hood is an original one or a replacement so they may be better or worse than original.
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