Periodic poor performance 2001 BMW E46 330ci cabriolet
Discussion
Hello from Denmark,
( Sorry for my lacking english skills, I hope you will forgive me ).
I was hoping to find some advice here, since my car is driving me crazy...
In october I bought a 2001 E46 330ci cabrio, with 112.000 km. on the clock.
I have two problems with it.
A: The car pulls poorly in the lower rpm´s, but not all the time. When it is cold it is fine.... but when I have driven it for about half an hour or so, it looses power below 3500´ish rpm. But.... last week I had the MAF changed, and for the first few days, is ran/ pulled as I suspect it should.... I feel I should mention that the weather was quite cold( below zero C ) the first two days after changing the MAF.... yesterday ( + 7 C ) it pulled just as sluggish when warmed up, as before changing the MAF :-(
This is what we have done so far: Changing the MAF as stated above...Full service including new plugs, oil, new oil- and airfilter + a new cam censor on the exhaust cam.
We have made a smoke test in order to test for leaks, smoke test was fine.
Today I noticed that when the car was in "sluggish mode" it was possible to make it more powerful again, by accelerating hard right up to the limiter, and then let it run off.. and after that it pulled fine/ better again... for a while ?????
Vanos seals/ o-rings has not been changed yet... Been holding back on the seals because a BMW tech said that based on the periodic nature of my problem, it sounded more "electrical" than mechanical to him.... He said that if the seals are faulty, they are faulty all the time... and not just after some time.... but is the o-ring/ seal problem not related to oil being able to pass the pistons instead of pushing them, thus not activating them properly ? If yes... is the oil not "thinner" when warm then when cold ?
B: The car is very cross wind sensitive, and it understeers up to 80 - 90 kmh. and above that speed it oversteers quite a lot. The wind sensitivity is so bad, that I fight to keep the car in a straight line on the freeway. I have just changed the shocks all around. The suspension bushes has been tested for wear, but none has been found... It runs on 19" wheels with new winter tires.... but rode the same on summer wheels... so I don´t expect the tires to be the sinners.. The car has just had a 4 wheel alignment !!!??
I would really really appreciate any assistance you might be willing to offer, since by now I have spent a lot of money on the car and it still does´nt work as it is supposed to..
( Sorry for my lacking english skills, I hope you will forgive me ).
I was hoping to find some advice here, since my car is driving me crazy...
In october I bought a 2001 E46 330ci cabrio, with 112.000 km. on the clock.
I have two problems with it.
A: The car pulls poorly in the lower rpm´s, but not all the time. When it is cold it is fine.... but when I have driven it for about half an hour or so, it looses power below 3500´ish rpm. But.... last week I had the MAF changed, and for the first few days, is ran/ pulled as I suspect it should.... I feel I should mention that the weather was quite cold( below zero C ) the first two days after changing the MAF.... yesterday ( + 7 C ) it pulled just as sluggish when warmed up, as before changing the MAF :-(
This is what we have done so far: Changing the MAF as stated above...Full service including new plugs, oil, new oil- and airfilter + a new cam censor on the exhaust cam.
We have made a smoke test in order to test for leaks, smoke test was fine.
Today I noticed that when the car was in "sluggish mode" it was possible to make it more powerful again, by accelerating hard right up to the limiter, and then let it run off.. and after that it pulled fine/ better again... for a while ?????
Vanos seals/ o-rings has not been changed yet... Been holding back on the seals because a BMW tech said that based on the periodic nature of my problem, it sounded more "electrical" than mechanical to him.... He said that if the seals are faulty, they are faulty all the time... and not just after some time.... but is the o-ring/ seal problem not related to oil being able to pass the pistons instead of pushing them, thus not activating them properly ? If yes... is the oil not "thinner" when warm then when cold ?
B: The car is very cross wind sensitive, and it understeers up to 80 - 90 kmh. and above that speed it oversteers quite a lot. The wind sensitivity is so bad, that I fight to keep the car in a straight line on the freeway. I have just changed the shocks all around. The suspension bushes has been tested for wear, but none has been found... It runs on 19" wheels with new winter tires.... but rode the same on summer wheels... so I don´t expect the tires to be the sinners.. The car has just had a 4 wheel alignment !!!??
I would really really appreciate any assistance you might be willing to offer, since by now I have spent a lot of money on the car and it still does´nt work as it is supposed to..
Gammelhagger01 said:
Hello from Denmark,
( Sorry for my lacking english skills, I hope you will forgive me ).
A: The car pulls poorly in the lower rpm´s, but not all the time. When it is cold it is fine.... but when I have driven it for about half an hour or so, it looses power below 3500´ish rpm. But.... last week I had the MAF changed, and for the first few days, is ran/ pulled as I suspect it should.... I feel I should mention that the weather was quite cold( below zero C ) the first two days after changing the MAF.... yesterday ( + 7 C ) it pulled just as sluggish when warmed up, as before changing the MAF :-(
This is what we have done so far: Changing the MAF as stated above...Full service including new plugs, oil, new oil- and airfilter + a new cam censor on the exhaust cam.
We have made a smoke test in order to test for leaks, smoke test was fine.
Today I noticed that when the car was in "sluggish mode" it was possible to make it more powerful again, by accelerating hard right up to the limiter, and then let it run off.. and after that it pulled fine/ better again... for a while ?????
Vanos seals/ o-rings has not been changed yet... Been holding back on the seals because a BMW tech said that based on the periodic nature of my problem, it sounded more "electrical" than mechanical to him.... He said that if the seals are faulty, they are faulty all the time... and not just after some time.... but is the o-ring/ seal problem not related to oil being able to pass the pistons instead of pushing them, thus not activating them properly ? If yes... is the oil not "thinner" when warm then when cold ?
B: The car is very cross wind sensitive, and it understeers up to 80 - 90 kmh. and above that speed it oversteers quite a lot. The wind sensitivity is so bad, that I fight to keep the car in a straight line on the freeway. I have just changed the shocks all around. The suspension bushes has been tested for wear, but none has been found... It runs on 19" wheels with new winter tires.... but rode the same on summer wheels... so I don´t expect the tires to be the sinners.. The car has just had a 4 wheel alignment !!!??
I would really really appreciate any assistance you might be willing to offer, since by now I have spent a lot of money on the car and it still does´nt work as it is supposed to..
Firstly, don't apologise for your English, it is better than lots of native English speakers I know.( Sorry for my lacking english skills, I hope you will forgive me ).
A: The car pulls poorly in the lower rpm´s, but not all the time. When it is cold it is fine.... but when I have driven it for about half an hour or so, it looses power below 3500´ish rpm. But.... last week I had the MAF changed, and for the first few days, is ran/ pulled as I suspect it should.... I feel I should mention that the weather was quite cold( below zero C ) the first two days after changing the MAF.... yesterday ( + 7 C ) it pulled just as sluggish when warmed up, as before changing the MAF :-(
This is what we have done so far: Changing the MAF as stated above...Full service including new plugs, oil, new oil- and airfilter + a new cam censor on the exhaust cam.
We have made a smoke test in order to test for leaks, smoke test was fine.
Today I noticed that when the car was in "sluggish mode" it was possible to make it more powerful again, by accelerating hard right up to the limiter, and then let it run off.. and after that it pulled fine/ better again... for a while ?????
Vanos seals/ o-rings has not been changed yet... Been holding back on the seals because a BMW tech said that based on the periodic nature of my problem, it sounded more "electrical" than mechanical to him.... He said that if the seals are faulty, they are faulty all the time... and not just after some time.... but is the o-ring/ seal problem not related to oil being able to pass the pistons instead of pushing them, thus not activating them properly ? If yes... is the oil not "thinner" when warm then when cold ?
B: The car is very cross wind sensitive, and it understeers up to 80 - 90 kmh. and above that speed it oversteers quite a lot. The wind sensitivity is so bad, that I fight to keep the car in a straight line on the freeway. I have just changed the shocks all around. The suspension bushes has been tested for wear, but none has been found... It runs on 19" wheels with new winter tires.... but rode the same on summer wheels... so I don´t expect the tires to be the sinners.. The car has just had a 4 wheel alignment !!!??
I would really really appreciate any assistance you might be willing to offer, since by now I have spent a lot of money on the car and it still does´nt work as it is supposed to..
The MAF is a good start, did you replace it with new/ebay special/known good one, and have you tried the inlet air temperature sensor?
The tech may be right about the Vanos, but if you have any doubts it could be worth doing anyway. It is not as difficult as it is portrayed to be and can be done without ANY special tools at all, there is JUST enough space to slide the Vanos units away from the front of the head & CAREFULLY undo the 10mm bolts holding the front off. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T DROP ANYTHING! Then carefully prise the seals out & change them, just ensure you either mark the gears & replace them in the same position or do not disengage the gears.
Hey, I have got a 330ci coupe, got 160.000m on the clock and recently have had a lot of problems with it. Some sound similar to yours. I had power when cold and no power at all when warm, it was useless. I had no service history for the last 50k so I assumed it has not been serviced in that time and replaced a lot of things that I knew would be the weak link.
Fault codes were; exhaust camshaft sensor, inlet camshaft sensor, electronic thermostat circuit, post cat o2 sensor heating. Before I did these thought I changed all of the CCV pipes and the crankcase vent valve, I serviced the vehicles changing all serviceable items.
It breathed better but was still the same. I could hear a rattle from the inlet manifold, turned out to be the DISA valve so I repaired the valve with a repair kit. Helped performance a bit, the old flap was loose.
So still more or less the same... Next I replaced the cam sensors which initially helped, I paid for a good brand because I know these cars can be funny with aftermarket sensors. This helped but was still hesitant when warm. replaced the o2 sensor too.
My next theory was the vanos seals, if the oil is cold and therefore thick I had power, but when it is warm and thin I had no power. I replaced the vanos seals, replaced the oil feed pipe, also replaced the oil filter housing gasket whilst I was there (the deal was pissing out of there because the rubber is rock hard)
Sure enough after the vanos seals it has been brilliant with loads of power. I think I had a lot of problems but the vanos seals is common. It isn't difficult either, just take your time. If it is low power when low revs your problem may be a blocked catAlytic converter maybe, unlikely but possible. Try a fuel filter if not had one in a long time, worth changing anyway if it's been a while. If you have use of a diagnostic machine you can check the vanos system on live data.
My car is a 2000 year, all of the rubber gaskets were leaking, it was a mess, the material they make the seals with isn't great and just goes really hard, I've had to replace more or less every gasket on the car, and the water pump and the thermostat. I don't want to break down haha but I'm sure it will find a way
great car though, and mine seems a bit sensitive to wind too, not sure why that is'
Fault codes were; exhaust camshaft sensor, inlet camshaft sensor, electronic thermostat circuit, post cat o2 sensor heating. Before I did these thought I changed all of the CCV pipes and the crankcase vent valve, I serviced the vehicles changing all serviceable items.
It breathed better but was still the same. I could hear a rattle from the inlet manifold, turned out to be the DISA valve so I repaired the valve with a repair kit. Helped performance a bit, the old flap was loose.
So still more or less the same... Next I replaced the cam sensors which initially helped, I paid for a good brand because I know these cars can be funny with aftermarket sensors. This helped but was still hesitant when warm. replaced the o2 sensor too.
My next theory was the vanos seals, if the oil is cold and therefore thick I had power, but when it is warm and thin I had no power. I replaced the vanos seals, replaced the oil feed pipe, also replaced the oil filter housing gasket whilst I was there (the deal was pissing out of there because the rubber is rock hard)
Sure enough after the vanos seals it has been brilliant with loads of power. I think I had a lot of problems but the vanos seals is common. It isn't difficult either, just take your time. If it is low power when low revs your problem may be a blocked catAlytic converter maybe, unlikely but possible. Try a fuel filter if not had one in a long time, worth changing anyway if it's been a while. If you have use of a diagnostic machine you can check the vanos system on live data.
My car is a 2000 year, all of the rubber gaskets were leaking, it was a mess, the material they make the seals with isn't great and just goes really hard, I've had to replace more or less every gasket on the car, and the water pump and the thermostat. I don't want to break down haha but I'm sure it will find a way
great car though, and mine seems a bit sensitive to wind too, not sure why that is'Edited by Greasedupdeafguy on Wednesday 27th January 21:09
Thanks a million guys.. :-) I really appreciate you taking the time to help !!!
The tester/ diagnostic tool has been used, and all the camshaft readings are within tolerances, and the fault codes has been addressed. So I guess vanos seals are up next....
Then I think I will change all the bushes in the undercarriage as well...... man.... lots of work :-(
The tester/ diagnostic tool has been used, and all the camshaft readings are within tolerances, and the fault codes has been addressed. So I guess vanos seals are up next....
Then I think I will change all the bushes in the undercarriage as well...... man.... lots of work :-(
Gammelhagger01 said:
Thanks a million guys.. :-) I really appreciate you taking the time to help !!!
The tester/ diagnostic tool has been used, and all the camshaft readings are within tolerances, and the fault codes has been addressed. So I guess vanos seals are up next....
Then I think I will change all the bushes in the undercarriage as well...... man.... lots of work :-(
There are some good YouTube videos of how to change the vanos seals, also some picture guides on the web if you do a search. The tester/ diagnostic tool has been used, and all the camshaft readings are within tolerances, and the fault codes has been addressed. So I guess vanos seals are up next....
Then I think I will change all the bushes in the undercarriage as well...... man.... lots of work :-(
Just ordered a re-built vanos unit with Besian o-rings... and new bearings. It will arrive from Germany next week..... so I really really hope it will do the trick.
Today I tried to check how much vacuum was generated when I removed the oilcap... there was vacuum, but only enough to make a small "concave dent" in the plastic..... do you guys know if this is fine or not ?
Today I tried to check how much vacuum was generated when I removed the oilcap... there was vacuum, but only enough to make a small "concave dent" in the plastic..... do you guys know if this is fine or not ?
Yes but only ever so slightly...
The "new" vanos has been fittet as well as a new DISA..... huge improvement... but tomorrow I will check for an air leak at the base of the new DISA.... I sounds as if the inlet manifold is sucking false air... but it might just be a sound I can hear now since the rattle from the old DISA is now gone...??
Wednesday next week I will fit new lower control arms...... and hoping they will fix the sloppy steering... :-)
The "new" vanos has been fittet as well as a new DISA..... huge improvement... but tomorrow I will check for an air leak at the base of the new DISA.... I sounds as if the inlet manifold is sucking false air... but it might just be a sound I can hear now since the rattle from the old DISA is now gone...??
Wednesday next week I will fit new lower control arms...... and hoping they will fix the sloppy steering... :-)
In the end it was a faulty cam position sensor on the exhaust side that caused all my problems....
We changed "everything" but the car just would´nt run as it is build to do....
At one point someone asked ( in a tread on the net ) if the cam position sensor we exchanged in the beginning of the process, was OEM or not.... I looked in to it, and it was a non-OEM part..... According to some, non-OEM sensors has a tendency to fail when hot.... but without throwing a fault code, so very hard to diagnose if you don´nt know this...... But I sourced a new and original cam sensor and put it in ( 5 min operation ), and BUM.... the car ran perfect....
So my message to others experiencing power loss on the M54 lump..... check your cam pos. sensors and make sure to exchange them only with OEM parts.....
So now I have an engine with new Vanos, DISA, MAF ect........ :-)
We changed "everything" but the car just would´nt run as it is build to do....
At one point someone asked ( in a tread on the net ) if the cam position sensor we exchanged in the beginning of the process, was OEM or not.... I looked in to it, and it was a non-OEM part..... According to some, non-OEM sensors has a tendency to fail when hot.... but without throwing a fault code, so very hard to diagnose if you don´nt know this...... But I sourced a new and original cam sensor and put it in ( 5 min operation ), and BUM.... the car ran perfect....
So my message to others experiencing power loss on the M54 lump..... check your cam pos. sensors and make sure to exchange them only with OEM parts.....
So now I have an engine with new Vanos, DISA, MAF ect........ :-)
Damn....... my problem is back...
Changing the sensors ( original BMW ) on both the inlet and the exhaust side helped for a few weeks... but now it looses power when warmed up again...
No fault codes.... so I simply does´nt know were to go from here..... mega annoying :-(
I have noticed that the power loss is accompanied by a turbine like noise form the engine bay. It´s like something is "dragging" when it warms up.... Like in the days of fan clutches..... but the car has a electrical fan... so that is not the cause...
Do you guys know if the timing chain can throw off the timing when it gets hot ?? Or could it be a shoot bearing somewhere....?? Again..... the problem is only showing it´s face when the engine is warmed up ( not to warm! ).... and no cods are thrown... by the way.
Changing the sensors ( original BMW ) on both the inlet and the exhaust side helped for a few weeks... but now it looses power when warmed up again...
No fault codes.... so I simply does´nt know were to go from here..... mega annoying :-(
I have noticed that the power loss is accompanied by a turbine like noise form the engine bay. It´s like something is "dragging" when it warms up.... Like in the days of fan clutches..... but the car has a electrical fan... so that is not the cause...
Do you guys know if the timing chain can throw off the timing when it gets hot ?? Or could it be a shoot bearing somewhere....?? Again..... the problem is only showing it´s face when the engine is warmed up ( not to warm! ).... and no cods are thrown... by the way.
Gammelhagger01 said:
Damn....... my problem is back...
Changing the sensors ( original BMW ) on both the inlet and the exhaust side helped for a few weeks... but now it looses power when warmed up again...
No fault codes.... so I simply does´nt know were to go from here..... mega annoying :-(
I have noticed that the power loss is accompanied by a turbine like noise form the engine bay. It´s like something is "dragging" when it warms up.... Like in the days of fan clutches..... but the car has a electrical fan... so that is not the cause...
Do you guys know if the timing chain can throw off the timing when it gets hot ?? Or could it be a shoot bearing somewhere....?? Again..... the problem is only showing it´s face when the engine is warmed up ( not to warm! ).... and no cods are thrown... by the way.
Get the fuel pressure checked or scoped when hot or the condition arises Changing the sensors ( original BMW ) on both the inlet and the exhaust side helped for a few weeks... but now it looses power when warmed up again...
No fault codes.... so I simply does´nt know were to go from here..... mega annoying :-(
I have noticed that the power loss is accompanied by a turbine like noise form the engine bay. It´s like something is "dragging" when it warms up.... Like in the days of fan clutches..... but the car has a electrical fan... so that is not the cause...
Do you guys know if the timing chain can throw off the timing when it gets hot ?? Or could it be a shoot bearing somewhere....?? Again..... the problem is only showing it´s face when the engine is warmed up ( not to warm! ).... and no cods are thrown... by the way.
fuel pumps on the E46 are prone to slow death and intermittent low fuel pressure will give you what you describe and if not for a long enough period will NOT show lean codes either , ultimately the FP will fail altogether 
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