Outer Hebrides: Any recommendations?

Outer Hebrides: Any recommendations?

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Davie

Original Poster:

4,733 posts

214 months

Wednesday 20th July 2016
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Myself and Mrs Davie are headed for the Outer Herbrides soon... got the ferry booked from Oban to Barra then on to Uist and then across to Harris and finally, headed back from Stornoway to Ullapool and back south to Middle Earth all over the course of 7 to 10 days (weather depending) We're staying one night on Barra, couple of nights halfway up Uist and the rest... we'll just wing it as we go. We're camping (brave, I know!) and as it's a long time since we left the countryside, we have sites with hook ups booked. I need my hairdryer.

Basically, any recommendations from a Pistonheaders point of view... granted it's not Caterham we're taking, more... several tons of Volvo estate but some good routes will be in order as will any decent beaches, walks and if anybody has done cross country mountain biking over there, I'd be interested to hear your recommendations. It's also a belated honeymoon (big spender me...) so any decent places to eat or even to stay and be pampered for a night and also, a decent campsite with electric hook up (ideally on Harris?) would be decent too.

Appreciated gents!

Who me ?

7,455 posts

211 months

Wednesday 20th July 2016
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might be better posting this in ROADS /Highlands ,or asking mods to move. Plenty of stuff on the Utter Hebrides on there.

Davie

Original Poster:

4,733 posts

214 months

Wednesday 20th July 2016
quotequote all
Ahhh, bugger... didn't realise there was such a place, will have a look though to be fair, it's more a "what to see / do / visit / stay" type of thing as roads seems quite limited in that part of the world.

Cheers

jimmytheone

1,356 posts

217 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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I can recommend Tarbert to Stornoway a859. A meandering road for a few miles follows by a steep ascent into moonscape. A LOT of someone's money has made the climb a wide sweeping road to start with but the money obviously ran out and at times it becomes narrow and winding. There's a long straight preceded by a cattle grid where I had my uk vmax in an mr2, mind the sheep tho.
I went last year and happily it coincided with the hebridean rally, think opel mantas etc. Special stage round stornoway castle more stages within easy driving reach.
Head for Scarasta beach on Harris, and a walk around toe head for the whitest sand and bluest seas, tho effing freezing its ok with shorty wetsuits if you're a soft southener like mem
Also see the Standing stones at Callanish (sp?) and salmon farms on Lewis, esp at sunset.

We also drove thru benbecula, of shipping forecast fame, weird but there's not many places you see "caution - otters crossing" signs!

I could witter on, lots of great memories...

Calmac island hopper ticket worth looking into

jimmytheone

1,356 posts

217 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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Eta, so we're not the only people to go to the Hebrides on honeymoon, may the deities of weather be with you.

Further south, the hills of lochboisdale was a memorable walk, I think it was in a lonely planet book. My wife of only a few days fell down a bog upbto her armpits, I gallantly rescued her and we ended up in a local hotel getting massively drunk and admiring the tartan carpet.
Ahem

Davie

Original Poster:

4,733 posts

214 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
quotequote all
Excellent, cheers!

Having Googled, sadly there appears to be no car based events on whilst we're away that I could have accidentally found on purpose as the thought of Mantas and Mk2 Escorts getting flung about single track appeals massively.

I've booked the CalMac hopscotch, worked out at just over £190.00 which seems like pretty decent value for money and takes in Barra, North and South Uist and Harris then drops us back on the mainland... still debating taking a run up to Durness etc on the way home but I guess it'll depend on how our time on the islands pans out.

Have a few touristy things on the list... the airport on the beach, the stones at Callanish, MacLeod standing stone plus she has an extensive list of beaches to visit. First three nights are booked camp wise, poshing it up with electric hook up (extra brownie points in the bag) but still haven't booked anything on Harris.

If the weather is crap, may jump ship early and do a bit of the Northcoast 500 when we hit the mainland again... don't think it'll be that inspiring in a Volvo, loaded up with camping gear and bikes but such is middle aged life!


tuffer

8,849 posts

266 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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Went to the Outer Hebs in 91, spent 6 weeks there (RAF Regt, missile practice camp). Stunning place but the weather changes by the minute. If you are going cycling, check the wind direction, me and a mate spent a lovely morning pedaling along the coast, the afternoon heading back into the wind will stay with me to the grave. Off road is not good, very peaty.

Webdunk

194 posts

246 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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Some geotagged snaps from my last visit. There was an amazing road being totally rebuilt from the foundations up when I was in Harris (the A859 mentioned earlier I think). If that's finished then it'll be great almost irrespective of mode of trasport.

For food in Stornoway I enjoyed HS1 (lunch), the Cabarfeidh and Digby Chick. For a coffee stop in Ullapool check out the West Coast Deli.

More Steam

698 posts

189 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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I hope you like great beaches. Barra is fantastic. The west coast is absolutely stunning. Take the time to go to Vatersay. You'll get off the ferry in Eriskay when you start heading north. I've never spent time there, but it looks a great wee island.
The west coast of North Uist has more in the way of stunning beaches.
When you go up to Harris, the beaches on the west coast are fantastic with great views of Taransay. The east coast is very rugged, but if its challenging roads your after, it's worth taking a drive along the golden road. It's probably more than 20 years since I've been along there, but from memory, its a twisting single track road following the rugged coast line.
Still in Harris, the road from Aird Asaig to Hushinish is a must.
Up to Lewis and again the beaches on the west coast are stunning. Bostadh on Great Bernera is my favourite and, imho, the best of the lot.
The Butt of Lewis and Port of Ness are also worth a visit.
I also North Tolsta. go past the village a couple of miles and there are a couple of great beaches.

jimmytheone

1,356 posts

217 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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I can recommend Polochar inn (THAT'S where that tartan carpet was!) in South Uist, its even got its own standing stone outside, when the weather's right and you get a clear sunset, oh the tranquillity...

HARRIS - There's a campsite down near Seilibost (opposite Taransay, en route to Toe Head and Scarista) called Horgabost campsite - its been years since I camped there but I think they had some basic facilities. Head north to Luskentyre / Losgaintir for a big beach with great view. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@57.8908046,-6.95174...

Another beach recommendation in Lewis is Dail Mor and Dail Beag, https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@58.304864,-6.752456...

Just travelling round google maps brings it all back, very jealous.

Not sure if I've said it before but WATCH OUT FOR SHEEP as well as hidden dips and the like. Last time up there I was a in SMAX loaded to gunwales and it was still lots of fun. Unless you've got old 164, I'm sure your Volvo will be just fine.

GetCarter

29,358 posts

278 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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As mentioned, weather is really important. keep your fingers crossed!

We usually stay in the Rodel Hotel in South Harris. Not much to look at from the outside but lovely rooms in a really stunning position, near all the good beaches.

Here are some of my photos (mostly from the Outer Isles)

http://www.stevecarter.com/harris-2007/hebrides.ht...

Beaches

http://www.stevecarter.com/beaches/beaches.htm

Don't miss Luskentyre!


Edited by GetCarter on Thursday 21st July 15:01

tuffer

8,849 posts

266 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
quotequote all
Was hoping you would post those pictures smile

Davie

Original Poster:

4,733 posts

214 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
quotequote all
Superb images... if it looks like that when we're up there then I think I have little to be concerned about.

We're booked one night camping on Barra so plan to do a bit exploring in the evening so will stick Vatersay on the list. From there we're headed for Uist and camping for two nights somewhere near Carinish so hopefully that'll prove to be a fairly good base camp to explore the north and south islands. Haven't really planned from there yet but it'll be over to Harris and tick off a few places so again, appreciate the heads up on some of those beaches and places to eat. Unclear if we'll stay on Harris for a few extra days then head home from Ullapool or leave a day or two early and do Durness - the latter has been said may be a bit of an anti-climax following a week on the islands?

One random question, how bad are the midges likely to be? We've tried to aim for coastal sites in the hope it may not be as bad but then again it's really going to be dependent on the weather conditions!

As for the bikes, again did a bit Googling and there seems to be very little in the way of single track but there looks to be a few options...

Cheers

jimmytheone

1,356 posts

217 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
quotequote all
Davie said:
Superb images... if it looks like that when we're up there then I think I have little to be concerned about.

We're booked one night camping on Barra so plan to do a bit exploring in the evening so will stick Vatersay on the list. From there we're headed for Uist and camping for two nights somewhere near Carinish so hopefully that'll prove to be a fairly good base camp to explore the north and south islands. Haven't really planned from there yet but it'll be over to Harris and tick off a few places so again, appreciate the heads up on some of those beaches and places to eat. Unclear if we'll stay on Harris for a few extra days then head home from Ullapool or leave a day or two early and do Durness - the latter has been said may be a bit of an anti-climax following a week on the islands?

One random question, how bad are the midges likely to be? We've tried to aim for coastal sites in the hope it may not be as bad but then again it's really going to be dependent on the weather conditions!

As for the bikes, again did a bit Googling and there seems to be very little in the way of single track but there looks to be a few options...

Cheers
My experience with midges has been not bad at all - until 2 years ago when I was watching Rally Hebrides (20th August this year, go on, delay the ferry home, it'll be worth it!).
Midges were bad so I bought a £5 mozzy net to go over the head. I might have looked a pillock but so did lots of others! And those that didn't wished they did.

Midges are worst near water and in still conditions - if its at all breezy, and lets face it the Hebrides can be "breezy" they tend not to be a problem. Definitely had more problems on west coast of mainland Scotland

jimmytheone

1,356 posts

217 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
quotequote all
GetCarter said:
As mentioned, weather is really important. keep your fingers crossed!

We usually stay in the Rodel Hotel in South Harris. Not much to look at from the outside but lovely rooms in a really stunning position, near all the good beaches.

Here are some of my photos (mostly from the Outer Isles)

http://www.stevecarter.com/harris-2007/hebrides.ht...

Beaches

http://www.stevecarter.com/beaches/beaches.htm

Don't miss Luskentyre!


Edited by GetCarter on Thursday 21st July 15:01
Great Pics GetCarter - what camera did you use? Are they 'shopped at all?
2007 was the year we went on our honeymoon, we stumbled across some highland games which were quite entertaining.
Somewhere I've got a great pic of a Piper in the Machair

GetCarter

29,358 posts

278 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
quotequote all
jimmytheone said:
Great Pics GetCarter - what camera did you use? Are they 'shopped at all?
2007 was the year we went on our honeymoon, we stumbled across some highland games which were quite entertaining.
Somewhere I've got a great pic of a Piper in the Machair
I shoot raw, so have to 'shop' or they look crap. I do however try to get them back to what I saw.

We were there in 2007 too. (And go every year - just a short trip for us). Glad to say it's the one place that doesn't really change.

jimmytheone

1,356 posts

217 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
quotequote all
GetCarter said:
I shoot raw, so have to 'shop' or they look crap. I do however try to get them back to what I saw.

We were there in 2007 too. (And go every year - just a short trip for us). Glad to say it's the one place that doesn't really change.
2007 was a brilliant year weather wise - I seem to remember that London was 30*+ and everyone was moaning about the tubes and the heat.
Meanwhile, Toe Head was a balmy 25* and perfect, great visibility just stunning.
2014 however was grey and cold (highs of 15* in mid august), bah!

I take loads of pics on my Nikon D90, normally in high quality / massive JPEG mode, but never get the chance to finesse them.
Are you a photographer by profession or just a keen amateur?

GetCarter

29,358 posts

278 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
quotequote all
jimmytheone said:
2007 was a brilliant year weather wise - I seem to remember that London was 30*+ and everyone was moaning about the tubes and the heat.
Meanwhile, Toe Head was a balmy 25* and perfect, great visibility just stunning.
2014 however was grey and cold (highs of 15* in mid august), bah!

I take loads of pics on my Nikon D90, normally in high quality / massive JPEG mode, but never get the chance to finesse them.
Are you a photographer by profession or just a keen amateur?
You can decide yourself! http://stevecarter.com

smile

I spend 50% of my time taking photos, but make 5% of my money that way.

Davie

Original Poster:

4,733 posts

214 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
quotequote all
No problem on the midge front... head nets purchase, Deet purchased, several cans of Lynx and a lighter purchased.

Still Googling and it seems bike could be a hit of a miss... debating if it's worth the extra hassle / stress of taking them of if it would be better to explore on foot. Her ladyship isn't a keen cyclist, about 10 to 15 miles of fairly tame trail is her limit and I'm not the biggest fan of riding on roads with huge climbs, prefer single track / technical and that seems to be a bit lacking.

Decisions, decisions!

Craigie

1,223 posts

178 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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We went camping for the first time last May and we chose to do it in Outer Hebrides.
Arrived the Sat night, 2 nights at Borve camping, then 2 nights in Benbecula and 2 nights in Stornoway.

Now that we have done it I would be more tempted when we go back to maybe just stay in Barra. Benbecula was th emost god-forsaken, boring. bland place we had seen. Stornoway was obviously busier with a shopping "centre" but surprisingly little places to eat out. We did have a lovely Chinese meal but we had been looking forward to finishing the holiday off with a slap up meal in a "locally caught fish" restaurant. Except there isnt one......

What sites have you booked in to ?