640d Runflat to non runflat
Discussion
Most people that change on the 640D walk straight to the MPSS...same size and load rating as the Dunlop Sportmaxx GT, but non RFT.
I still like the Sportmaxx despite being RFT, but will probably be trying out the new Pzero RFT (not long released only last month with the required spec with star approval unlike the old version) once the Dunlop's have worn.
I still like the Sportmaxx despite being RFT, but will probably be trying out the new Pzero RFT (not long released only last month with the required spec with star approval unlike the old version) once the Dunlop's have worn.
I changed my F11 5 series from the Cinturato P7's to Good Year Aysemetric 3's last weekend. Even with Adaptive Drive and tiny little 17" wheels the difference is well worth it. At first I didn't think there was much of a difference, it's when I hit a slight divet or pot hole in the road that I really appreciate how crap run flats are. Now the car just calmly du-dumps over bumps, as opposed to sending an obvious shock through the cabin, and creating an odd wobble if you are going around a corner.
Oh and they are also a bit quieter, which might not be an issue in a more refind car such as a 6 series?
Oh and they are also a bit quieter, which might not be an issue in a more refind car such as a 6 series?
I changed to non run flats on the 640d just over a year ago and it transformed the ride and handling and improved steering feel...however I've suffered two punctures on the rear already resulting in me having to put two more brand new tyres on.
Maybe I've just been very unlucky but I am now wishing I'd stuck with the run flats and it's sods law.
Maybe I've just been very unlucky but I am now wishing I'd stuck with the run flats and it's sods law.
A RFT will still puncture and costs a lot more to replace, though.
As said above, they ruin the ride, cost a lot more, reduce MPG (sidewall takes a lot more energy to flex) and are very heavy.
Blow-outs are only really dangerous to high-C of G cars like SUVs, so you don't need RFTs and you will certainly appreciate not having any!
As said above, they ruin the ride, cost a lot more, reduce MPG (sidewall takes a lot more energy to flex) and are very heavy.
Blow-outs are only really dangerous to high-C of G cars like SUVs, so you don't need RFTs and you will certainly appreciate not having any!
EGTE said:
A RFT will still puncture and costs a lot more to replace, though.
As said above, they ruin the ride, cost a lot more, reduce MPG (sidewall takes a lot more energy to flex) and are very heavy.
Blow-outs are only really dangerous to high-C of G cars like SUVs, so you don't need RFTs and you will certainly appreciate not having any!
My concern going non RFT isn't the blow out risk but more the stranded risk until BMW assist turn up.As said above, they ruin the ride, cost a lot more, reduce MPG (sidewall takes a lot more energy to flex) and are very heavy.
Blow-outs are only really dangerous to high-C of G cars like SUVs, so you don't need RFTs and you will certainly appreciate not having any!
The Michelins seem to be slightly cheaper than a dunlop RFT from what I've seen which is circa £20-30 a corner.
MPSS are around £200 and fairly constant price wise.
I find the Dunlop fluctuates far more price wise more so on the front where i have seen anything from £230 to £300+. Rears around £230-250.
I have not changed over because of the above though (and yes I did get a puncture in my front driver's side this weekend, doh - not repairable).
I find the Dunlop fluctuates far more price wise more so on the front where i have seen anything from £230 to £300+. Rears around £230-250.
I have not changed over because of the above though (and yes I did get a puncture in my front driver's side this weekend, doh - not repairable).
cerb4.5lee said:
I changed to non run flats on the 640d just over a year ago and it transformed the ride and handling and improved steering feel...however I've suffered two punctures on the rear already resulting in me having to put two more brand new tyres on.
Maybe I've just been very unlucky but I am now wishing I'd stuck with the run flats and it's sods law.
I changed the RFTs to Dunlop Maxx GTs on my F31 328i recently. Within 4 weeks I'd picked up a screw in the N/S/F Maybe I've just been very unlucky but I am now wishing I'd stuck with the run flats and it's sods law.
The only consolation is that a non-RFT replacement was cheaper than a RFT
Maracus said:
cerb4.5lee said:
I changed to non run flats on the 640d just over a year ago and it transformed the ride and handling and improved steering feel...however I've suffered two punctures on the rear already resulting in me having to put two more brand new tyres on.
Maybe I've just been very unlucky but I am now wishing I'd stuck with the run flats and it's sods law.
I changed the RFTs to Dunlop Maxx GTs on my F31 328i recently. Within 4 weeks I'd picked up a screw in the N/S/F Maybe I've just been very unlucky but I am now wishing I'd stuck with the run flats and it's sods law.
The only consolation is that a non-RFT replacement was cheaper than a RFT
This tyre debacle is driving me mad too.
CSK423 said:
My concern going non RFT isn't the blow out risk but more the stranded risk until BMW assist turn up.
The Michelins seem to be slightly cheaper than a dunlop RFT from what I've seen which is circa £20-30 a corner.
I've got a set of Dunlop RFTs for sale at the moment, if that helps at all.The Michelins seem to be slightly cheaper than a dunlop RFT from what I've seen which is circa £20-30 a corner.
Best decision I made ditching run flats. For the cost of replacing all of the run flats I can replace the non flat tyres all around at least three times! The car rides better. Suspension feels less harsh. Acceleration seems slightly improved as I am saving on rotational weight. At first I was carry a can of tyre gloop in the trunk but then started carrying a space saver.
I have a similar issue. I have recently bought a e93 330i and noticed there is a slow leak in the rear tyre which is Bridgestone fun flat. The tread us down to 3mm on the rears and so they both need to go. The fronts have plenty of tread and all tyres are the OEM Bridgestone run flats (RE050A). I don't know whether to replace the rears with the OEM run flats at £160 each fitted or go for something like Goodyear eagle F1s or continental sp5 both of which are around £130. If I start the non run flat route, I will do the same with the fronts when the time comes.
Cost isn't the issue but rather are the benefits of run flats offset by a potential improvement in ride refinement etc, does the change really make that much of a difference?
Cost isn't the issue but rather are the benefits of run flats offset by a potential improvement in ride refinement etc, does the change really make that much of a difference?
c4sman said:
Cost isn't the issue but rather are the benefits of run flats offset by a potential improvement in ride refinement etc, does the change really make that much of a difference?
The difference is incredible and the 640d is on 20" rims and the swap to non run flats is massively noticeable(better ride/handling/steering feel) plus you have more confidence in what the car is doing because you can actually feel the give in the tyres. I still have run flats on the 330i on 18" rims and you notice how harsh/poor the ride is immediately and it's laughable how bad it is in comparison to the 640d, although because I've suffered two punctures in such a short time since swapping to non run flats on the 640d I am nervous about doing the same on the 330i now.
I just don't really know what's best to be fair.
It's a tricky one. I was on route to work when the tpms triggered and I could happy get to a petrol station 10m away before topping up so lost almost no time. To save the tyre if they were not RF I would have to have stopped and called someone out to get to a tyre shop. To counter that I guess a can of tyre gunk and a compressor would achieve the same result with a normal tyre?
My first puncture was on my drive luckily but I was caught out by the second one, because I was used to run flats the tpm flashed up and I thought I would have a little bit of time to top it up as I always have with run flats...as you say with a non run flat though you have to stop immediately and I didn't so I was left stranded on a NSL country lane and my gunk and compressor didn't fix it sadly.
c4sman said:
It's a tricky one. I was on route to work when the tpms triggered and I could happy get to a petrol station 10m away before topping up so lost almost no time. To save the tyre if they were not RF I would have to have stopped and called someone out to get to a tyre shop. To counter that I guess a can of tyre gunk and a compressor would achieve the same result with a normal tyre?
9 times out of 10 the gunk and pump work. Every so often you get a stopper - my last puncture (on the M1, joy of joys) ended with a 1" rip in the tyre and the SS on.Do you need to change rims when you move from RFT? Should you tell the insurer of a change to the spec?
battered said:
9 times out of 10 the gunk and pump work. Every so often you get a stopper - my last puncture (on the M1, joy of joys) ended with a 1" rip in the tyre and the SS on.
Do you need to change rims when you move from RFT? Should you tell the insurer of a change to the spec?
No change of rims.Do you need to change rims when you move from RFT? Should you tell the insurer of a change to the spec?
I didn't tell my insurance as the tyre is of the same size and load, etc. Just not runflat.
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