Help! E91 N43B20A timing chain problems?
Discussion
rabidh said:
> The timing pin should fit tightly in the flywheel. Is this the 'timing wheel' do you mean?
The pin fits tight in the flywheel - I meant the widgets right on the end of the camshaft sprockets that tell the ECU where the cams are. When I fit the timing tool onto the car, they can still move around by maybe a degree.
There are still 2 silver 'pins' in the set (top right of the box on http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271639646197) - I'm not sure what they're for?
Thanks for the advice on the fitting - so you'd advise against doing the 300Nm torque-up using the crank pin to stop the crank turning? It looked quite meaty but I guess it'd be a disaster if the pin couldn't be removed.
As long as the pins hold the reluctor plates in the right position it'll be fine. The N43 locking tools are different to the N42 and N46.The pin fits tight in the flywheel - I meant the widgets right on the end of the camshaft sprockets that tell the ECU where the cams are. When I fit the timing tool onto the car, they can still move around by maybe a degree.
There are still 2 silver 'pins' in the set (top right of the box on http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271639646197) - I'm not sure what they're for?
Thanks for the advice on the fitting - so you'd advise against doing the 300Nm torque-up using the crank pin to stop the crank turning? It looked quite meaty but I guess it'd be a disaster if the pin couldn't be removed.
The crank locking pin may or may not withstand 300nm - I wouldn't risk it myself.
Thanks for the help everyone - it's done now.
I had to torque up the crank bolt by feel because my wrench only goes up to 200 so I may have over-done it a little - I can see what everyone means though, it feels like a scary amount! I got my wife under the car with a big screwdriver in the end rather than chancing that pin
I replaced the coil packs at the same time, so I'm not sure if it's that or the ECU still learning after I disconnected the battery (turns out this is a good idea or it'll spray petrol at you every 10 minutes), but the car does seem to have more power at the top end now (it tailed off before).
There's a slightly disconcerting chain-like whine in the background now, but I assume that might get quieter when the chain beds in...
I had to torque up the crank bolt by feel because my wrench only goes up to 200 so I may have over-done it a little - I can see what everyone means though, it feels like a scary amount! I got my wife under the car with a big screwdriver in the end rather than chancing that pin
I replaced the coil packs at the same time, so I'm not sure if it's that or the ECU still learning after I disconnected the battery (turns out this is a good idea or it'll spray petrol at you every 10 minutes), but the car does seem to have more power at the top end now (it tailed off before).
There's a slightly disconcerting chain-like whine in the background now, but I assume that might get quieter when the chain beds in...
Dandandan99 said:
If the timing chain guides break and as a result with the new chain fitted I’m getting low oil pressure after every journey. What are my options ?
Drop the sump (support engine and remove front crossmember) and then clean out the oil puck up. At this stage, I would also remove each big end cap and inspect the bearing shells. New shells and rod bolts - not too dear.Hello, my timing chain kit on N43 was replaced in 88k. Now I have 150k and timing chain is little loosen but with no symptoms. I want to change a timing chain for prevent DIY. Without oil pump chain. I didnt like front axle down and oil pan down. If I block the flywheel by pin under the starter and block the camshafts, can I loose a central bolt and change the timing chain and rails, tighten the central bolt?... will I dislocate the counterbalancing shafts or not? Thanks!!
Edited by pajdos1 on Friday 19th July 09:26
Yes. The balance shaft will not move whilst it's apart but I like to get the old chain kit out, the new one straight back in and the centre bolt nipped up. Get the crank in the right position and lock the flywheel teeth with a big old screwdriver, just crack the bolt off slightly and then fit the locking pin into the flywheel before slackening it. With the chain kit out, clean up the oil pump gear with brake cleaner and just mark it with white paint so you can be 100% sure it doesn't move.
I didn't know anyone - main dealer techs included - who removes the sump unless there are bits broken off in the sump.
I didn't know anyone - main dealer techs included - who removes the sump unless there are bits broken off in the sump.
Thank you for your reply, I will do it. You made me happy, because each mechanic told me about oil pan, axle down and secure the balancing shaft. Ex-owner's mechanic changed only the oil pump chain because of broke and timing chain kept old... because of economic repair before the sale...maybe. So I've got a new that oil chain. And oil sump is clear, checked it by mobile endoscope. Love the pistonheads! I will report changing!
Hi, I just wondered if anyone knows the answer to this please.
I'm rebuilding a BMW N43 engine B20A - I have a locking tool for the balancing shafts and the engine is now at top dead centre with the other locking tools but I'm unsure if I need to lock them the flat side facing down or 180 degree rotation so the rounded side is facing down?
I'm rebuilding a BMW N43 engine B20A - I have a locking tool for the balancing shafts and the engine is now at top dead centre with the other locking tools but I'm unsure if I need to lock them the flat side facing down or 180 degree rotation so the rounded side is facing down?
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