E61 530i - What should I be looking for? (Advice)
Discussion
axel1990chp said:
A little update, and some more advice seeking!
Track rod end replacement worked a charm, installed the andream unit too, and after some frustration trying to figure it out, a quick email to the Chinese gentleman who sent me it, I got a passcode and all worked magically!
Had a few little jobs done over the last couple of months, all in the name of peace of mind, had the auxiliary belt and tensioner done last and before that had a new battery installed, cooling flush and AC unit check up/top up.
Since then I had my front and rear BMW badge nicked at Humberside Airport at the end of August, nice £160 spent at BMW for some sparkly new ones
Unfortunately had a puncture on the rest left, so whilst it’s a little unaffordable before Xmas, I’ve taken the plunge and I’m swapping all 4 to new Michelin PS5’s NRFs. Sourcing a spare 18 inch to keep in the boot just in case, because I know my luck!
New spark plugs and coil packs after the new year, with the final reassurance job being the discs and pads around March!
My advice comes in the form of spacers!
I’ve never dabbled in spacers as I’ve typically had already menacingly looking cars and it’s not really been necessary, however the wheels sit so far in the arches on this, especially at the rear, so I think it’s a job I’m going to throw in with the discs and pads in March.
Has anyone done this to an E61? What size/brand/type did you go for? Worried I order completely the wrong part if I’m honest!
I would say 10mm probably seems right for the front but the rear probably more!
Absolutely love the car and I’ve had floods of compliments of older chaps, even some of the Barry boys at my gym have given it a good staring at!
Once the back end of winter is gone I’ll be having a fairly good dose of ceramic coating at a local detailers and hopefully that’s me done until something ugly shows up!
12-15mm all round will work superblyTrack rod end replacement worked a charm, installed the andream unit too, and after some frustration trying to figure it out, a quick email to the Chinese gentleman who sent me it, I got a passcode and all worked magically!
Had a few little jobs done over the last couple of months, all in the name of peace of mind, had the auxiliary belt and tensioner done last and before that had a new battery installed, cooling flush and AC unit check up/top up.
Since then I had my front and rear BMW badge nicked at Humberside Airport at the end of August, nice £160 spent at BMW for some sparkly new ones
Unfortunately had a puncture on the rest left, so whilst it’s a little unaffordable before Xmas, I’ve taken the plunge and I’m swapping all 4 to new Michelin PS5’s NRFs. Sourcing a spare 18 inch to keep in the boot just in case, because I know my luck!
New spark plugs and coil packs after the new year, with the final reassurance job being the discs and pads around March!
My advice comes in the form of spacers!
I’ve never dabbled in spacers as I’ve typically had already menacingly looking cars and it’s not really been necessary, however the wheels sit so far in the arches on this, especially at the rear, so I think it’s a job I’m going to throw in with the discs and pads in March.
Has anyone done this to an E61? What size/brand/type did you go for? Worried I order completely the wrong part if I’m honest!
I would say 10mm probably seems right for the front but the rear probably more!
Absolutely love the car and I’ve had floods of compliments of older chaps, even some of the Barry boys at my gym have given it a good staring at!
Once the back end of winter is gone I’ll be having a fairly good dose of ceramic coating at a local detailers and hopefully that’s me done until something ugly shows up!
I've run spacers on nigh on all my BMWs and never any issues
Used Bimecc and Precision Engineering via eBay / mtechonline shop
I've tended to run a stud conversion kit also as it's a better option for running spacers over longer bolts; but each to their own
Mtechonline will sort you out with spacers/bolts/stud kit if you decide to do that:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/mteconline?_trkparms=fo...
My previous F01 running 12/15mm spacers with an 82mm stud conversion kit from mtechonline:
My Japanese import E39 530i Sport touring running same stud conversion kit with 15mm spacers all round:
Zero issues; just need to ensure that you thoroughly clean all mating faces and do not use ANY grease at all on them; just a thin smear on the hub ring itself
axel1990chp said:
Hero Dan! 
I’ll go with 12 first and see how that’s shaping up! Appreciate the solid rapid advice! Looks relatively cheap too, so I might bring that forward to next month haha!
Absolutely love that touring in silver, fantastic car
You'll probably find 12mm is bob on. Just under / inside the arches etc...I’ll go with 12 first and see how that’s shaping up! Appreciate the solid rapid advice! Looks relatively cheap too, so I might bring that forward to next month haha!
Absolutely love that touring in silver, fantastic car
I'd highly recommend the stud conversion kit as it males life easier. But it's also tighten mg down the wheel from both side rather than just one (as longer bolts only do etc)
Aye. The touring was a superb car and rare on these shores.
But have to admit, really like my current F31
I’ve taken your advice and gone for the 12s from mtec! Will look to fit them next weekend if I can steal my old man’s driveway!
The occasional lumpy idle has gone away with coding of 2 injectors that must of been replaced at some point, absolute dream result!
Just drove away from having 4 MPS5’s fitted (non run flat) and you were all right! Absolutely transformed the ride, feels light nimble and smooth! Turning the steering wheel feels like driving a VW up in comparison to this morning
Will post a before/after of the spacers when it’s done! Must admit I was sat staring at the backside of my car admiring its beauty when it was up on the ramp, can’t wait to see the rear more stanced out!
Think an Xmas treat to royal steering wheels may be in order!
The occasional lumpy idle has gone away with coding of 2 injectors that must of been replaced at some point, absolute dream result!
Just drove away from having 4 MPS5’s fitted (non run flat) and you were all right! Absolutely transformed the ride, feels light nimble and smooth! Turning the steering wheel feels like driving a VW up in comparison to this morning
Will post a before/after of the spacers when it’s done! Must admit I was sat staring at the backside of my car admiring its beauty when it was up on the ramp, can’t wait to see the rear more stanced out!
Think an Xmas treat to royal steering wheels may be in order!
Edited by axel1990chp on Saturday 28th October 12:05
axel1990chp said:
I’ve taken your advice and gone for the 12s from mtec! Will look to fit them next weekend if I can steal my old man’s driveway!
The occasional lumpy idle has gone away with coding of 2 injectors that must of been replaced at some point, absolute dream result!
Just drove away from having 4 MPS5’s fitted (non run flat) and you were all right! Absolutely transformed the ride, feels light nimble and smooth! Turning the steering wheel feels like driving a VW up in comparison to this morning
Will post a before/after of the spacers when it’s done! Must admit I was sat staring at the backside of my car admiring its beauty when it was up on the ramp, can’t wait to see the rear more stanced out!
Think an Xmas treat to royal steering wheels may be in order!
They’ll be spot on. From what I read, you need at least 12mm to clear the spigot - 10mm will be flush to it and can cause wheel wobble which is especially noticeable on the front….as I found out the hard way. It’s almost like Motech and Co who starter at 12mm k wi what they’re talking about…..The occasional lumpy idle has gone away with coding of 2 injectors that must of been replaced at some point, absolute dream result!
Just drove away from having 4 MPS5’s fitted (non run flat) and you were all right! Absolutely transformed the ride, feels light nimble and smooth! Turning the steering wheel feels like driving a VW up in comparison to this morning
Will post a before/after of the spacers when it’s done! Must admit I was sat staring at the backside of my car admiring its beauty when it was up on the ramp, can’t wait to see the rear more stanced out!
Think an Xmas treat to royal steering wheels may be in order!
Edited by axel1990chp on Saturday 28th October 12:05
RSW do great work; I’ve had four wheels and various bits do trim done by them now.
axel1990chp said:
I’ve taken your advice and gone for the 12s from mtec! Will look to fit them next weekend if I can steal my old man’s driveway!
The occasional lumpy idle has gone away with coding of 2 injectors that must of been replaced at some point, absolute dream result!
Just drove away from having 4 MPS5’s fitted (non run flat) and you were all right! Absolutely transformed the ride, feels light nimble and smooth! Turning the steering wheel feels like driving a VW up in comparison to this morning
Will post a before/after of the spacers when it’s done! Must admit I was sat staring at the backside of my car admiring its beauty when it was up on the ramp, can’t wait to see the rear more stanced out!
Think an Xmas treat to royal steering wheels may be in order!
They’ll be spot on. From what I read, you need at least 12mm to clear the spigot - 10mm will be flush to it and can cause wheel wobble which is especially noticeable on the front….as I found out the hard way. It’s almost like Motech and Co who starter at 12mm k wi what they’re talking about…..The occasional lumpy idle has gone away with coding of 2 injectors that must of been replaced at some point, absolute dream result!
Just drove away from having 4 MPS5’s fitted (non run flat) and you were all right! Absolutely transformed the ride, feels light nimble and smooth! Turning the steering wheel feels like driving a VW up in comparison to this morning
Will post a before/after of the spacers when it’s done! Must admit I was sat staring at the backside of my car admiring its beauty when it was up on the ramp, can’t wait to see the rear more stanced out!
Think an Xmas treat to royal steering wheels may be in order!
Edited by axel1990chp on Saturday 28th October 12:05
RSW do great work; I’ve had four wheels and various bits do trim done by them now.
Well a small update, followed by an advice request, if any of you would be so kind!
The car is running an absolute dream, I find enjoyment in driving again, and I mainly put it down to how at peace and smooth it feels inside the big luxury cabin - changing onto NRFTs was a game changer for sure! Car has plenty of poke for bustling around B roads and it absolutely eats the miles up on the motorway. Had a little trip to the Lakes this weekend gone - reset the mpg clock and wangled a 34.8mpg on the way there, full tank and a boot load of bits too, I was over the moon with that!
Small job booked in this Friday - new coolant expansion tank, seems my coolant worries and woes thinking it’s leaking were red herrings, the indicator sensor (I’m assuming) is stuck, so it’s getting replaced. 140 quid all in at my local indispecialist which I’m fairly happy to pay.
Now onto the advice
Today after hankering on for a lorry who doesn’t like to indicate - my brake pad light came on and has stayed on. When I bought the car I knew the discs and pads would need replacing before MOT, more for my own peace of mind than a potential fail, but that job has now forced its way into my wallet on a particularly bad time! (Bloody expensive stag do’s!)
Is there much savings in the way of time=money in doing these myself? My old boy was a mechanic back in his day, and he’s more than capable of supervising me getting my hands dirty, hey - part of the appeal of me getting this old bus was to improve my knowledge of car maintenance. That being said, am I setting myself up for a bit of a bigger jumping at this? Are they reknown for hidden problems when I start removing bits?
Almost forgot! I had the spacers installed, it’s a poor picture, taken in a rush for a friend in a very unspectacular location with some motorway grunge on it, but you get the idea…
12mm all around.
Happy with the front but I’ll be going to 15mm on the rear when the wheels next come off … for these brakes!
Thanks in advance folks!
The car is running an absolute dream, I find enjoyment in driving again, and I mainly put it down to how at peace and smooth it feels inside the big luxury cabin - changing onto NRFTs was a game changer for sure! Car has plenty of poke for bustling around B roads and it absolutely eats the miles up on the motorway. Had a little trip to the Lakes this weekend gone - reset the mpg clock and wangled a 34.8mpg on the way there, full tank and a boot load of bits too, I was over the moon with that!
Small job booked in this Friday - new coolant expansion tank, seems my coolant worries and woes thinking it’s leaking were red herrings, the indicator sensor (I’m assuming) is stuck, so it’s getting replaced. 140 quid all in at my local indispecialist which I’m fairly happy to pay.
Now onto the advice
Today after hankering on for a lorry who doesn’t like to indicate - my brake pad light came on and has stayed on. When I bought the car I knew the discs and pads would need replacing before MOT, more for my own peace of mind than a potential fail, but that job has now forced its way into my wallet on a particularly bad time! (Bloody expensive stag do’s!)
Is there much savings in the way of time=money in doing these myself? My old boy was a mechanic back in his day, and he’s more than capable of supervising me getting my hands dirty, hey - part of the appeal of me getting this old bus was to improve my knowledge of car maintenance. That being said, am I setting myself up for a bit of a bigger jumping at this? Are they reknown for hidden problems when I start removing bits?
Almost forgot! I had the spacers installed, it’s a poor picture, taken in a rush for a friend in a very unspectacular location with some motorway grunge on it, but you get the idea…
12mm all around.
Happy with the front but I’ll be going to 15mm on the rear when the wheels next come off … for these brakes!
Thanks in advance folks!
axel1990chp said:
Well a small update, followed by an advice request, if any of you would be so kind!
The car is running an absolute dream, I find enjoyment in driving again, and I mainly put it down to how at peace and smooth it feels inside the big luxury cabin - changing onto NRFTs was a game changer for sure! Car has plenty of poke for bustling around B roads and it absolutely eats the miles up on the motorway. Had a little trip to the Lakes this weekend gone - reset the mpg clock and wangled a 34.8mpg on the way there, full tank and a boot load of bits too, I was over the moon with that!
Small job booked in this Friday - new coolant expansion tank, seems my coolant worries and woes thinking it’s leaking were red herrings, the indicator sensor (I’m assuming) is stuck, so it’s getting replaced. 140 quid all in at my local indispecialist which I’m fairly happy to pay.
Now onto the advice
Today after hankering on for a lorry who doesn’t like to indicate - my brake pad light came on and has stayed on. When I bought the car I knew the discs and pads would need replacing before MOT, more for my own peace of mind than a potential fail, but that job has now forced its way into my wallet on a particularly bad time! (Bloody expensive stag do’s!)
Is there much savings in the way of time=money in doing these myself? My old boy was a mechanic back in his day, and he’s more than capable of supervising me getting my hands dirty, hey - part of the appeal of me getting this old bus was to improve my knowledge of car maintenance. That being said, am I setting myself up for a bit of a bigger jumping at this? Are they reknown for hidden problems when I start removing bits?
Almost forgot! I had the spacers installed, it’s a poor picture, taken in a rush for a friend in a very unspectacular location with some motorway grunge on it, but you get the idea…
12mm all around.
Happy with the front but I’ll be going to 15mm on the rear when the wheels next come off … for these brakes!
Thanks in advance folks!
Doing it yourself saves £££ but there's the satisfaction side of things too...The car is running an absolute dream, I find enjoyment in driving again, and I mainly put it down to how at peace and smooth it feels inside the big luxury cabin - changing onto NRFTs was a game changer for sure! Car has plenty of poke for bustling around B roads and it absolutely eats the miles up on the motorway. Had a little trip to the Lakes this weekend gone - reset the mpg clock and wangled a 34.8mpg on the way there, full tank and a boot load of bits too, I was over the moon with that!
Small job booked in this Friday - new coolant expansion tank, seems my coolant worries and woes thinking it’s leaking were red herrings, the indicator sensor (I’m assuming) is stuck, so it’s getting replaced. 140 quid all in at my local indispecialist which I’m fairly happy to pay.
Now onto the advice
Today after hankering on for a lorry who doesn’t like to indicate - my brake pad light came on and has stayed on. When I bought the car I knew the discs and pads would need replacing before MOT, more for my own peace of mind than a potential fail, but that job has now forced its way into my wallet on a particularly bad time! (Bloody expensive stag do’s!)
Is there much savings in the way of time=money in doing these myself? My old boy was a mechanic back in his day, and he’s more than capable of supervising me getting my hands dirty, hey - part of the appeal of me getting this old bus was to improve my knowledge of car maintenance. That being said, am I setting myself up for a bit of a bigger jumping at this? Are they reknown for hidden problems when I start removing bits?
Almost forgot! I had the spacers installed, it’s a poor picture, taken in a rush for a friend in a very unspectacular location with some motorway grunge on it, but you get the idea…
12mm all around.
Happy with the front but I’ll be going to 15mm on the rear when the wheels next come off … for these brakes!
Thanks in advance folks!
I'd highly recommend ATE discs and ATE Ceramic pads via Autodoc and a new wear sensor too (ATE, Bosch, Meyle etc)
Fantastic brakes, OEM maker too but the ceramic pads give great bite and hardly any dust
E61 looks superb by the way. They really aged well
d_a_n1979 said:
Doing it yourself saves £££ but there's the satisfaction side of things too...
I'd highly recommend ATE discs and ATE Ceramic pads via Autodoc and a new wear sensor too (ATE, Bosch, Meyle etc)
Fantastic brakes, OEM maker too but the ceramic pads give great bite and hardly any dust
E61 looks superb by the way. They really aged well
As Dan says, you'll defo save money as you'll obviously save on labour costs and you'll more than likely be able to get the parts cheaper than what your local garage/Indy would charge. And you can choose the exact bits you want.I'd highly recommend ATE discs and ATE Ceramic pads via Autodoc and a new wear sensor too (ATE, Bosch, Meyle etc)
Fantastic brakes, OEM maker too but the ceramic pads give great bite and hardly any dust
E61 looks superb by the way. They really aged well
Question is time and ability. And the potential to run into trouble (rounded/sheared bolts etc). I've got a good relationship with my local garage and they are happy to fit parts I buy.
I don't know if on the E6X the piston retraction is a push back in by hand situation vs needing to connect to a computer for it to be done electronically. I suspect the former, but defo worth checking before you get started.
g3org3y said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Doing it yourself saves £££ but there's the satisfaction side of things too...
I'd highly recommend ATE discs and ATE Ceramic pads via Autodoc and a new wear sensor too (ATE, Bosch, Meyle etc)
Fantastic brakes, OEM maker too but the ceramic pads give great bite and hardly any dust
E61 looks superb by the way. They really aged well
As Dan says, you'll defo save money as you'll obviously save on labour costs and you'll more than likely be able to get the parts cheaper than what your local garage/Indy would charge. And you can choose the exact bits you want.I'd highly recommend ATE discs and ATE Ceramic pads via Autodoc and a new wear sensor too (ATE, Bosch, Meyle etc)
Fantastic brakes, OEM maker too but the ceramic pads give great bite and hardly any dust
E61 looks superb by the way. They really aged well
Question is time and ability. And the potential to run into trouble (rounded/sheared bolts etc). I've got a good relationship with my local garage and they are happy to fit parts I buy.
I don't know if on the E6X the piston retraction is a push back in by hand situation vs needing to connect to a computer for it to be done electronically. I suspect the former, but defo worth checking before you get started.
Morning gents,
Appreciate the replies!
I've had a gander at AUTODOC and some HEL braided. Looking at the front its going to run me about 300 which is pretty easy going considering what brakes have cost me in the past at garages! Followed your advice on ATE too Dan!
I had a quick scroll of a YT video replacing them and it seems you're right with the push in by hand situation. Seems I need access to the brake fluid reservoir to do that, which is a bit of a faff under the bonnet, but allows me to swap out the cabin filter at the same time.
I'm yet to speak to my old boy about his assistance but I want to go prepared, would it be wise to top up the brake fluid/be prepared to do so, and speaking as a complete newbie to this game, am I going to need a tool for pressuring up afterwards?
Appreciate the comments on the E61 too, absolutely fallen in love with it! Made me want to get the M5 E61 but then I realised I don't have 40-50k spare for it
Cheers!
Appreciate the replies!
I've had a gander at AUTODOC and some HEL braided. Looking at the front its going to run me about 300 which is pretty easy going considering what brakes have cost me in the past at garages! Followed your advice on ATE too Dan!
I had a quick scroll of a YT video replacing them and it seems you're right with the push in by hand situation. Seems I need access to the brake fluid reservoir to do that, which is a bit of a faff under the bonnet, but allows me to swap out the cabin filter at the same time.
I'm yet to speak to my old boy about his assistance but I want to go prepared, would it be wise to top up the brake fluid/be prepared to do so, and speaking as a complete newbie to this game, am I going to need a tool for pressuring up afterwards?
Appreciate the comments on the E61 too, absolutely fallen in love with it! Made me want to get the M5 E61 but then I realised I don't have 40-50k spare for it
Cheers!
axel1990chp said:
Morning gents,
Appreciate the replies!
I've had a gander at AUTODOC and some HEL braided. Looking at the front its going to run me about 300 which is pretty easy going considering what brakes have cost me in the past at garages! Followed your advice on ATE too Dan!
I had a quick scroll of a YT video replacing them and it seems you're right with the push in by hand situation. Seems I need access to the brake fluid reservoir to do that, which is a bit of a faff under the bonnet, but allows me to swap out the cabin filter at the same time.
I'm yet to speak to my old boy about his assistance but I want to go prepared, would it be wise to top up the brake fluid/be prepared to do so, and speaking as a complete newbie to this game, am I going to need a tool for pressuring up afterwards?
Appreciate the comments on the E61 too, absolutely fallen in love with it! Made me want to get the M5 E61 but then I realised I don't have 40-50k spare for it
Cheers!
Yup; brake bleeding kit (this is what my pal Chris & his Dad use): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS820-Clutch-Bleed...Appreciate the replies!
I've had a gander at AUTODOC and some HEL braided. Looking at the front its going to run me about 300 which is pretty easy going considering what brakes have cost me in the past at garages! Followed your advice on ATE too Dan!
I had a quick scroll of a YT video replacing them and it seems you're right with the push in by hand situation. Seems I need access to the brake fluid reservoir to do that, which is a bit of a faff under the bonnet, but allows me to swap out the cabin filter at the same time.
I'm yet to speak to my old boy about his assistance but I want to go prepared, would it be wise to top up the brake fluid/be prepared to do so, and speaking as a complete newbie to this game, am I going to need a tool for pressuring up afterwards?
Appreciate the comments on the E61 too, absolutely fallen in love with it! Made me want to get the M5 E61 but then I realised I don't have 40-50k spare for it
Cheers!
You'll not go wrong with HEL braided lines; fitted them to all my BMWs since 2010 and they're superb; just had them fitted to my F31
Just use some decent Dot4 brake fluid and away you go (I've used OEM BMW, Febi, Comma, RBF etc - all very much the same for a road going car) - c£12 on Amazon (get 1 litre so you've enough for the bleeding and topping up)
axel1990chp said:
Ordered! Cheers Dan!
Hope mr postman brings it all at once!
Front right low beam alarmed today and it’s clearly gone, I’ll give that a fiddle tomorrow, seems a straight forward job! They say things come in threes… what’s next!
Always the way...Hope mr postman brings it all at once!
Front right low beam alarmed today and it’s clearly gone, I’ll give that a fiddle tomorrow, seems a straight forward job! They say things come in threes… what’s next!
As Dom said; replace them both sides. Osram are good but bloody expensive at times; I've used them and Lunex (a UK company; uses the correct quartz glass etc) and they're c£35 a set on Amazon or eBay UK
4300K for OEM light and 6000k for a whiter light but not blue
Lunex: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lunex-Headlight-Xenon-Rep...
Osram: https://www.amazon.co.uk/OSRAM-BREAKER-Generation-...
Surprisingly they’re halogen, H7 I’m assuming. Everything I’ve read says LCI is xenon but they aren’t, yet everything else is LCI, as far as I am aware. Certainly registered with the increased power of the LCI!
Going to try a straight bulb replacement this eve if I can get the lighting down the street. If not it’s a job tomorrow before I head for the expansion tank and coolant flush
I’ll report back any problems if they arise!
Going to try a straight bulb replacement this eve if I can get the lighting down the street. If not it’s a job tomorrow before I head for the expansion tank and coolant flush
I’ll report back any problems if they arise!
Big birds got a problem!
First real issue I've had with her and I'm preparing for something expensive, good job its bonus month at work
Starting up from cold - very sluggish start almost every start-up now. Rev's dip and fluctuate around 300 rpm and at points feels as though the car is going to stall. 50% of the time it recovers after a few dips, the other 50% it throws up the Engine Management in amber. When it does that, a quick stop start and she runs a dream.
Its been running OK after start up for the last few days - while I've got her booked in for Thursday afternoon, however this morning; hitting the start button the car didn't start. Took 5 attempts to get going, sluggish start again, EML in amber, stopped it and started again and away she goes. Now she's sounding a little more grunty and exhausted than ever before.
I had a little plug in after the first instance. Shown a misfire but that's as much as my tool will tell me, hopefully tell me more on Thursday when its in with a local Indy. Doesn't seem like the rough cold idle and failure to start would be just a misfire, however?
Any idea on the above?
Im hoping worst case is a/few new injectors? if so can you replace to different index on just one or a few or should you do the lot/a bank?
Fella at work reckons starter motor on small convo we just had now.
Ill be put out of my misery tomorrow i'm sure but a headsup on what to expect would be appreciated!
First real issue I've had with her and I'm preparing for something expensive, good job its bonus month at work
Starting up from cold - very sluggish start almost every start-up now. Rev's dip and fluctuate around 300 rpm and at points feels as though the car is going to stall. 50% of the time it recovers after a few dips, the other 50% it throws up the Engine Management in amber. When it does that, a quick stop start and she runs a dream.
Its been running OK after start up for the last few days - while I've got her booked in for Thursday afternoon, however this morning; hitting the start button the car didn't start. Took 5 attempts to get going, sluggish start again, EML in amber, stopped it and started again and away she goes. Now she's sounding a little more grunty and exhausted than ever before.
I had a little plug in after the first instance. Shown a misfire but that's as much as my tool will tell me, hopefully tell me more on Thursday when its in with a local Indy. Doesn't seem like the rough cold idle and failure to start would be just a misfire, however?
Any idea on the above?
Im hoping worst case is a/few new injectors? if so can you replace to different index on just one or a few or should you do the lot/a bank?
Fella at work reckons starter motor on small convo we just had now.
Ill be put out of my misery tomorrow i'm sure but a headsup on what to expect would be appreciated!
bmwmike said:
If it's the n53 engine check for evidence of injectors and coilpacks etc being done fairly recently. If it's cheap and seems too good to be true it probably needs a set of injectors. You need to see it cold start after standing all night, check exhaust for black smoke puff or blue smoke puff, both of which may mean leaky injector, as fuel leaks into the chamber overnight. It may start misfiring too. If the idle is smooth and no smoke, may be ok.
If it's n52 less issues.
2007 is cut over for n52 then later n53 so it could be either.
Like this... If it's n52 less issues.
2007 is cut over for n52 then later n53 so it could be either.
axel1990chp said:
Big birds got a problem!
First real issue I've had with her and I'm preparing for something expensive, good job its bonus month at work
Starting up from cold - very sluggish start almost every start-up now. Rev's dip and fluctuate around 300 rpm and at points feels as though the car is going to stall. 50% of the time it recovers after a few dips, the other 50% it throws up the Engine Management in amber. When it does that, a quick stop start and she runs a dream.
Its been running OK after start up for the last few days - while I've got her booked in for Thursday afternoon, however this morning; hitting the start button the car didn't start. Took 5 attempts to get going, sluggish start again, EML in amber, stopped it and started again and away she goes. Now she's sounding a little more grunty and exhausted than ever before.
I had a little plug in after the first instance. Shown a misfire but that's as much as my tool will tell me, hopefully tell me more on Thursday when its in with a local Indy. Doesn't seem like the rough cold idle and failure to start would be just a misfire, however?
Any idea on the above?
Im hoping worst case is a/few new injectors? if so can you replace to different index on just one or a few or should you do the lot/a bank?
Fella at work reckons starter motor on small convo we just had now.
Ill be put out of my misery tomorrow i'm sure but a headsup on what to expect would be appreciated!
Based on what you describe with the reluctance to start, i'd be concerned at the HPFP. If they do go that route, make sure they rule out something like the low pressure or high pressure fuel sensors first. There is a specific test procedure iirc, but I don't have an n53 any more, and i've freed up those bits of my brain for other things First real issue I've had with her and I'm preparing for something expensive, good job its bonus month at work
Starting up from cold - very sluggish start almost every start-up now. Rev's dip and fluctuate around 300 rpm and at points feels as though the car is going to stall. 50% of the time it recovers after a few dips, the other 50% it throws up the Engine Management in amber. When it does that, a quick stop start and she runs a dream.
Its been running OK after start up for the last few days - while I've got her booked in for Thursday afternoon, however this morning; hitting the start button the car didn't start. Took 5 attempts to get going, sluggish start again, EML in amber, stopped it and started again and away she goes. Now she's sounding a little more grunty and exhausted than ever before.
I had a little plug in after the first instance. Shown a misfire but that's as much as my tool will tell me, hopefully tell me more on Thursday when its in with a local Indy. Doesn't seem like the rough cold idle and failure to start would be just a misfire, however?
Any idea on the above?
Im hoping worst case is a/few new injectors? if so can you replace to different index on just one or a few or should you do the lot/a bank?
Fella at work reckons starter motor on small convo we just had now.
Ill be put out of my misery tomorrow i'm sure but a headsup on what to expect would be appreciated!
.Doesn't sound like starter to me, assuming your starter sounds normal and not sluggish before the engine itself fires.
I'd check the battery too, the n53 needs a good battery as the injectors etc take a good wack, and a weak battery can cause misfires.
Fingers crossed for you.
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