What to look for on a Used Bike

For guidance. Others can expand this and add links;

1. Paperwork

Always do an HPI check.
Check correctness of V5 and whether it tallies with the seller's address
Check the service history. Does it match mileage?
Always come away with the new owner slip
Get a hand written & signed receipt (may help if any problems arise)
Review MOT document and check for 'Advisories' - if the mot cert details a number of advisories and the seller can't produce the advisory sheet then you can check what they were using this website... http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicl...

2. Frame & Engine

Is the VIN clearly on the frame and unaltered?
Does the engine number match the registration documents?
Condition of forks- leaking seals, rusty/pitted fork stantions
Clickingor play in the headstock bearings
Condition of rear shock
Dents/damage to the frame or tank- may indicate a drop
If you can take along a 2m straight edge run it down the side of the bike to check the front/rear wheel alignment
Check all fluid levels [oil / coolant / front & rear brake fluid plus clutch fluid]. Low levels suggest a less than scrupulous owner.
Check when the valve clearances were last inspected / adjusted.

3. Consumables

Condition of tyres. A set will cost you £150 upwards.
Condition of Chain & Sprockets. A set will cost around £100 plus fitting costs.
Does the bike fall apart when you kick the tyres? (answer should be no)
Brakes- check for 'meat' on the pads & condition of discs (warped ones are expesive to replace)
Oil- should be a nice brown colour, definitely not black & gloopy
Fluid (brakes)- should be a slightly yellow but clear colour. Dark fluid indicates old stuff which may lead to other repairs, or an inidcation that the bike hasn't been serviced well.

Check the condition of the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around ¾" of play (up and down) and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn't be much movement on a good set. Have someone sit down on the motorcycle and check to make sure the chain is somewhat snug, with very little movement up and down. Chains wear out over time, but sprockets should last much longer. A severely worn sprocket indicates either an old sprocket or a poor maintenance schedule.

The tires should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage. Daily drivers' tires will often have more wear in the middle on the tread (more highway driving). Others who've raced their motorcycle on the track, will have tires that show more wear at the edge of the tread.

Sit on the bike. Look at the condition of the brake and clutch levers, bar-end weights, straightness of the bars and instrument cluster. These could be signs of an accident or drop. Others could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes. Hold the handbrake and bounce the front suspension. It should feel even and firm. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems.

While checking the forks, run a fingernail across the brake rotors, feeling for uneven wear or grooving. Look into the brake caliper to see how much of the pads are left. If the bike has spokes, check the overall condition of the individual spokes. For all types, look for dents or damage to the rim.

Put the bike on its center stand if so equipped; turn the bars side to side. Feel for any 'notchy-ness' or roughness in the steering head.

If possible, check the visible frame; remove the seat to see underneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away.

While the seat is off and you can access the battery, clip the multi-meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine. The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, that may be a sign of a 'dodgy' voltage regulator and it may overcharge a battery and cause it to fail. Check the lights and indicators at this stage also. Pull a fuse or two out and check for corrosion. Do this with the engine off of course. Also, check the battery terminals and overall appearance of the battery. Replace the seat.

Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight (not a match or lighter)

Inspect under fairings (if the motorcycle has fairings). Remove the same fairing the owner removes to change spark plugs and do routine maintenance. Check the frame for fatigue at the weld points. Inspect the overall condition of the engine block, plugs, and radiator. Check for leaks around the oil filter and oil pan bolt.

Look at the brake fluid level. This is usually on top of handlebars, in an enclosure with a clear window. With the engine running, pull hard on the front brakes level and release while watching the fluid level. It should fall and rise. It should rise quickly once the brake is released.