Mito 443 Project
Discussion
Go with the S/S cans mate.
Carbon cans can look nice initially but often fade from UV, can crack and fray from vibes or mark up from spooge.
Plus they'll match the stainless pipes, although I'd rather go mild steel as it pulls heat better but needs more maintenance due to a love of rusting.
Maybe black spannies and bright cans?
Carbon cans can look nice initially but often fade from UV, can crack and fray from vibes or mark up from spooge.
Plus they'll match the stainless pipes, although I'd rather go mild steel as it pulls heat better but needs more maintenance due to a love of rusting.
Maybe black spannies and bright cans?
I've read all sorts about advantages and disadvantages over mild / stainless spannies, also asked jim lomas and some others and was told it's mostly b
ks and to just pick what I want haha.
Can't be arsed having to stop mild steel spannies that have cost me best part of 700 quid from rusting, stainless is negligible price difference from kenny.
Those cans are ally though not stainless. Realistically you'll only see the spannies with the bodywork off, but I prefer how the stainless ones look and less maintenance.
ks and to just pick what I want haha. Can't be arsed having to stop mild steel spannies that have cost me best part of 700 quid from rusting, stainless is negligible price difference from kenny.
Those cans are ally though not stainless. Realistically you'll only see the spannies with the bodywork off, but I prefer how the stainless ones look and less maintenance.
Yazza54 said:
I've read all sorts about advantages and disadvantages over mild / stainless spannies, also asked jim lomas and some others and was told it's mostly bks and to just pick what I want haha.
Can't be arsed having to stop mild steel spannies that have cost me best part of 700 quid from rusting, stainless is negligible price difference from kenny.
Those cans are ally though not stainless. Realistically you'll only see the spannies with the bodywork off, but I prefer how the stainless ones look and less maintenance.
Cool.ks and to just pick what I want haha. Can't be arsed having to stop mild steel spannies that have cost me best part of 700 quid from rusting, stainless is negligible price difference from kenny.
Those cans are ally though not stainless. Realistically you'll only see the spannies with the bodywork off, but I prefer how the stainless ones look and less maintenance.
Just a quick thought maybe.
Have you thought about getting Kenny to weld in a couple of EGT nipples into the pipes if you ever wanted to fit a pair of sensors?
But either way, they'll look spanking so go with what you're liking
Might be a good shout mate, someone else off the rdlc forum used a pair to help with jetting, showed one cylinder ran hotter than the other etc.
I do always have a pretty firm idea of what I want but the suggestions are still useful even though it might come across my minds already made up! Cheers
I do always have a pretty firm idea of what I want but the suggestions are still useful even though it might come across my minds already made up! Cheers
Yazza54 said:
Might be a good shout mate, someone else off the rdlc forum used a pair to help with jetting, showed one cylinder ran hotter than the other etc.
I do always have a pretty firm idea of what I want but the suggestions are still useful even though it might come across my minds already made up! Cheers
A lad here who runs a pukka Honda RS250 GP bike has a twin EGT gauge mounted on the bike. Whilst it can read hi or low for lean or rich, he reckons it helps to keep an eye on the motor I general use. I do always have a pretty firm idea of what I want but the suggestions are still useful even though it might come across my minds already made up! Cheers
And like you say, you can't assume the cylinders will want identical jetting so good to see any small difference
theshrew said:
Yazza54 said:
I prefer how the stainless ones look and less maintenance.
So get stainless then. Presume since your putting all the cash and hard work building this smoker you will keep it for a good while. At least with stainless its one less thing to worry about in the future.
Defo a no brainer having the pipes in stainless, too expensive to have rot away!!
Around £700 with cans, when you weigh up how much work there is in the fabrication it's not bad. It's certainly not bad compared to other 2 stroke exhaust builders. Especially for this as he's going to have to spend time measuring up and designing the pipes first so extra work there unlike the RD ones he's done loads of.
He's going to send me some ideas and different power curves etc through once he's simulated a few designs and email them over for me to choose
He's going to send me some ideas and different power curves etc through once he's simulated a few designs and email them over for me to choose
Should probably explain what's in the pic lol
Heavy duty clutch, it's a mix of fzr1000 plates and uprated springs, and billet wiseco basket. Both needed as the clutch will be trying to handle around 30hp more than it was designed to originally.
I have straight cut primary gears to go on the basket and crank. For high power applications the helical gears can sap power and make the crank walk.
The head is machined out of billet block aluminium, holds a lot more water in the head to improve cooling over a standard cast head, plus you can interchange the domes to try different squish, compression set ups with ease. All O ringed.
The crank is a 7mm, which basically means it's 61mm stroke (7mm over from 54mm standard). I spec'd all jap high quality bearings, 10ball outers to spread the load (standard 7 ball) and the big ends are yamaha TZ 16 pin needle rollers instead of the standard 14pin, again to add some strength to the crank.
Heavy duty clutch, it's a mix of fzr1000 plates and uprated springs, and billet wiseco basket. Both needed as the clutch will be trying to handle around 30hp more than it was designed to originally.
I have straight cut primary gears to go on the basket and crank. For high power applications the helical gears can sap power and make the crank walk.
The head is machined out of billet block aluminium, holds a lot more water in the head to improve cooling over a standard cast head, plus you can interchange the domes to try different squish, compression set ups with ease. All O ringed.
The crank is a 7mm, which basically means it's 61mm stroke (7mm over from 54mm standard). I spec'd all jap high quality bearings, 10ball outers to spread the load (standard 7 ball) and the big ends are yamaha TZ 16 pin needle rollers instead of the standard 14pin, again to add some strength to the crank.
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