Mito 443 Project
Discussion
Yazza54 said:
Should probably explain what's in the pic lol
Heavy duty clutch, it's a mix of fzr1000 plates and uprated springs, and billet wiseco basket. Both needed as the clutch will be trying to handle around 30hp more than it was designed to originally.
I have straight cut primary gears to go on the basket and crank. For high power applications the helical gears can sap power and make the crank walk.
The head is machined out of billet block aluminium, holds a lot more water in the head to improve cooling over a standard cast head, plus you can interchange the domes to try different squish, compression set ups with ease. All O ringed.
The crank is a 7mm, which basically means it's 61mm stroke (7mm over from 54mm standard). I spec'd all jap high quality bearings, 10ball outers to spread the load (standard 7 ball) and the big ends are yamaha TZ 16 pin needle rollers instead of the standard 14pin, again to add some strength to the crank.
All good stuff mate Heavy duty clutch, it's a mix of fzr1000 plates and uprated springs, and billet wiseco basket. Both needed as the clutch will be trying to handle around 30hp more than it was designed to originally.
I have straight cut primary gears to go on the basket and crank. For high power applications the helical gears can sap power and make the crank walk.
The head is machined out of billet block aluminium, holds a lot more water in the head to improve cooling over a standard cast head, plus you can interchange the domes to try different squish, compression set ups with ease. All O ringed.
The crank is a 7mm, which basically means it's 61mm stroke (7mm over from 54mm standard). I spec'd all jap high quality bearings, 10ball outers to spread the load (standard 7 ball) and the big ends are yamaha TZ 16 pin needle rollers instead of the standard 14pin, again to add some strength to the crank.
But maybe look at using a Bosch car turbo electric water pump rather than use the crank driven impeller pump. We've found on the RS that the standard water pump cavitates over moderate rpm and creates a significant parasitic loss on the engine. Using a constant drive DC pump definately makes a difference. Might be worth looking at??
Dunno mate, I've already bought high flow billet water pump impellor etc. might look into it in future but for now I know what I've got will work.
It won't be pulling massive revs, probably limit around 9500 to get some longevity out of it.
I think I'd trust a mechanical pump more too, I don't have to tell you how much money I've got in this engine I'm sure you have an idea!
It won't be pulling massive revs, probably limit around 9500 to get some longevity out of it.
I think I'd trust a mechanical pump more too, I don't have to tell you how much money I've got in this engine I'm sure you have an idea!
Edited by Yazza54 on Monday 8th September 10:30
Yazza54 said:
Dunno mate, I've already bought high flow billet water pump impellor etc. might look into it in future but for now I know what I've got will work.
It won't be pulling massive revs, probably limit around 9500 to get some longevity out of it.
I think I'd trust a mechanical pump more too, I don't have to tell you how much money I've got in this engine I'm sure you have an idea!
Regarding RPM, my reckoning is 10500 will be safe using the 21MPS limit for piston speed. 61mm crank run through...2 * Stroke * RPM / 60 gives 21.35 MPS at 10500. Obviously, if your power is tailing off already, there's no point in revving so high but at least you'll know where your safe ceiling is.It won't be pulling massive revs, probably limit around 9500 to get some longevity out of it.
I think I'd trust a mechanical pump more too, I don't have to tell you how much money I've got in this engine I'm sure you have an idea!
Edited by Yazza54 on Monday 8th September 10:30
As for the pump, we reckon the impeller causes more drag then the helical primaries. It also cavitiates heavily over 4k so there's a lot of bubbles being pumped around. The EWP is far more efficient. However, regarding reliability, a Bosch pump from a turbo car is FAR more reliable than the Craig Davies toy pumps and yeah, i wouldn't trust those with such a motor!!
My end, project EFI has started and i'll incorporate things like high (>70 degrees) engine shutdown or rpm limitation/ignition retard to keep it safe.
Must say i'd love to get a motor like your and put EFI on it. Absolute doddle being a parallel twin!
Interesting stuff. EFI may well be one the future, there's an Rd350 ypvs in Germany with EFI and it's said to run so sweet!
I'm also interested in having the bores ceramic coated when they need a rebore instead of nikasil. Smads and some others swears by the apticote ceramic coating.
The straight cuts I've gone for more to combat main bearing wear as the helicals apparently pull the crank, but it's nice to know the parasitic losses are less too.
There's loads of stuff like this I can develop as I do along. Will be interesting to test things out once it's up and running.
I'm also interested in having the bores ceramic coated when they need a rebore instead of nikasil. Smads and some others swears by the apticote ceramic coating.
The straight cuts I've gone for more to combat main bearing wear as the helicals apparently pull the crank, but it's nice to know the parasitic losses are less too.
There's loads of stuff like this I can develop as I do along. Will be interesting to test things out once it's up and running.
Just gonna be honest and get the v5 properly update it and insure it for what it is, I've got the mito v5 in my name. Other than that it's MOT and just ride it
If the dvla wanna inspect it they can do, they won't have a f
king clue what they're looking at anyway
If the dvla wanna inspect it they can do, they won't have a f
king clue what they're looking at anywayEdited by Yazza54 on Monday 8th September 11:55
My box of porn has finally arrived, the previous pic was sent to me by the bloke who imports the bits and decided to leave them with him while I was on holiday.
The cylinder head is a work of art, cnc machined billet, o ringed, interchangeable domes
Heavy duty clutch, billet wiseco basket, clutch springs (not pictured) are TZ750, plates are fzr1000 AFAIK.
Crank has uprated bearings throughout
Gearbox bearings are all upgraded too.
Kenny @ TSA has sent me through a few simulations of pipe designs, different porting. He reckons around 90hp @ 9500 rpm from mild porting. I'm not interested in chasing figures, there's probably potential for this motor to make 110hp but it would make it less rideable, higher rev limit and therefore less reliable. Going somewhere in the middle is the right thing to do I think.
The cylinder head is a work of art, cnc machined billet, o ringed, interchangeable domes
Heavy duty clutch, billet wiseco basket, clutch springs (not pictured) are TZ750, plates are fzr1000 AFAIK.
Crank has uprated bearings throughout
Gearbox bearings are all upgraded too.
Kenny @ TSA has sent me through a few simulations of pipe designs, different porting. He reckons around 90hp @ 9500 rpm from mild porting. I'm not interested in chasing figures, there's probably potential for this motor to make 110hp but it would make it less rideable, higher rev limit and therefore less reliable. Going somewhere in the middle is the right thing to do I think.
Edited by Yazza54 on Thursday 18th September 19:36
Yazza54 said:
Kenny @ TSA has sent me through a few simulations of pipe designs, different porting. He reckons around 90hp @ 9500 rpm from mild porting. I'm not interested in chasing figures, there's probably potential for this motor to make 110hp but it would make it less rideable, higher rev limit and therefore less reliable. Going somewhere in the middle is the right thing to do I think.
Fleegle said:
Will the fairings fit over the pipes?
I'm planning on using TZ250 Fairings not Mito ones, they therefore have a much larger belly pan as designed to have two pipes running under the bike, so I would assume so. If they don't I'll modify them...it's not like there's anything standard on the bike so that's not really a concern 
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